French Polynesia

We have some news, though you'll have to trawl through the main Moorea entry to find it....

Any comments, you can email us at pdsaustin@gmail.com - we'll be pleased to hear from you!

Arrived on time at Pape'ete airport, but knowing we had a long night ahead of us. Also, thrown into total confusion that we are now living in the day before, ie we left NZ on 20th Dec, to arrive here in the evening of 19th Dec.

Our stay in this part of the world (for 1 week) will actually be on the neighbouring island of Moorea, a short ferry ride away.

Cheapskates that we are, we choose to sleep at the airport (thanks for the advice www.sleepinginairports.net) and save GBP60, which will come in handy in this expensive place.

Whilst not particularly comfortable, we manage several hours sleep, and wake up to find that we have retained all of our belongings. Thanks, soldiers with guns.

Early next morning, we catch 'Le Truck' into town 15 minutes away and await the 9.30 ferry. First expense, a GBP2 bottle of water, ouch.

The slow ferry takes just under an hour to get us to Moorea and the view as we approach the island is gorgeous - lots of greenery and turqoise water in the bay.

Not much going on in the smallish port - car rental plaes and fruit sellers, a small supermarket up the road. We're reminded of the heat as we look to munch some of our Fruit & Nut Choccy Bar and experience a gooey, but tasty, mess.

I mentioned before that our accomodation plans here were late in coming, though we did finally get booked to stay at the Fare Oa Oa - the Lonely Planet write up is positive and the rate for the week, including breakfast, is CFP39,000 (about GBP230). Considering some of our other options were a similar sum per night, we are happy. We since find out that we are staying with the new owners (of 2 months).

Because we were unsure of the trip across to the island, our host isn't due to pick us up until 1pm, so a bit of hanging around in the meantime.

Martine arrives on time and we're soon on our way after establishing that each party knows just a little of the others language. (This is a French colony after all).

The 'pension' is a 20 minute drive from the port - there is really only one road here, that conveniently circles the coast of the island, about 60 kms around.

After 'checking-in' and meeting Martines daughters, Manon and Morgane, baby Teiki and Scooby the dog, we head straight down to the beach, snorkel gear in hand. Whilst the guest house is close to the waterfront, the beach is a 10 minute walk along the road and is attached to the Sheraton Hotel, though it remains a public beach.

Cheeky monkeys that we are, we also sneak into their pool. Sshhhhhh.

We return in the evening (gets dark around 6pm here), and meet 'papa', Hervé, who puts us to shame with his english language skills. Not that we don't have a good command of english - you know what we mean!

We have a lovely evening talking, and we had also, thankfully, signed up to have our evening meal here too. Thankfully, because it was delicious - probably one of the best meals of the trip so far.

Again, after the uncertainty of where we would stay in Moorea, and how we'd like it, we finish the first day all smiles.

Next day, we start at the beach, but soon worm our way into the pool, and use the hotel sunbeds. The snorkelling is good, especially in such warm, clear, waters. To be honest, we have probably experienced better coral/sealife elsewhere, but it is amazing nonetheless.

Another pleasant evening spent with the family, of course, another superb meal. By the way, it's costing CFP1000 per night (each) for dinner - a snip (at GBP6) considering options elsewhere.

We keep the trend the same the next day - swimming/relaxing/good food/sunburn.

Getting around the island is easy, but could be costly. Forget taxis, and for us hiring a car too expensive. You can hire a scooter at the port for CFP6000.

So, manage to get a good deal on hiring a scooter (CFP4000) and head off, slowly to start with, around the coastal route, deciding to do one complete loop to get an idea of our bearings, as well as re-acquaint ourselves with our transport.

Lots of good spots around the coast, and also a lookout over Cooks Bay and Opunohu Bay. Thankfully the scooter made it up the hill....just.

Stopped en route to watch a colourful wedding take place.

Towards the end of our second loop, we pulled in at the Beachcomber Resort - another fancy hotel that prohibits entry by non-guests - oops. Felt sorry for the poor dolphins looking and acting thoroughly bored in their, relatively, tiny enclosures.

Also at the hotel is a rehabilitation centre for Hawksbill and Green Sea turtles.

And then, the rains came - even though it's warm, it's unwelcome and brings a slighly premature end to our day on the road, though we're grateful to return home safe and sound.

Another fine evening in good company with Hervé, Martine and the girls, and Scooby. Also, 4 other French guests are staying over.

Slow start to Xmas Eve and we both feel a little homesick, missing the usual goings on at home. Of course, not missing the winter climate. Nor the crowded shops.

Todays main plan is to visit the Lagoonarium - essentially a pseudo-natural aquarium under the sea on an outlying island, where marine life gathers in the coralbeds. As well as the fishes, we get to swim amongst rays and black tip sharks. There's also an elusive turtle...

Whilst a 'manufactured' experience, it's a really nice place and we'd be less likely to see the same in the wild.

There's a couple of feeding sessions for the rays, and Chris is very excited to have half a dozen large rays flapping about her feet and legs - really cool!

Again, late afternoon rains come as we take the short canoe ride back to dry land.

Back at 'home' (just trying to make the point that we feel very welcome with all the family) we dig out the cards and play Uno with the girls.

Christine makes enquiries about attending Midnight Mass and we're told that there's one at 8pm. Paul is thankful that the other French guests, three friendly students, also wish to go and he doesn' have to, enjoying cocktails with le patron instead.

After mass, we all sit down to a delicious Xmas dinner and the family open their presents after midnight. The poor girls (aged 7 and 9 can barely keep their eyes open). Very kindly, the family have some chocolates and traditional necklaces for us. We hope that they like the windchime we have for them, though we are embarrased by our 'shopping bag' wrapping paper.

Feeling thoroughly full, of food, wine and champagne, we finally get to bed at 3am, having had a lovely night with the family.

Despite the late night, the morning heat wakes us up early, though the morning is leisurely.

Seems strange that on Xmas Day we are here, by the sea - we wonder what is happening at home....

Not long by the pool before we have a downpour, but it's soon over and we're back in the water.

3 minutes later, and Christine thinking that Paul starts to chuckle and squirm because he has spied a 'topless' over Christine's shoulder, a BIG moment (some would say) rears its delayed head. By some 17 years.

"Christine, will you marry me???", submerged, on one knee, looking out into the lagoon.

Of course she will!, though Paul is disappointed to not see any tears, though grinning laughter can be heard.

Cue a subsequent discussion about what the hell we'll do next.

I hope it has been worth the wait - of course, it was always a 'when', rather than 'if'. It could have happened at any time, though this just feels the right time - a beautiful place and in good company to celebrate with, in the absence of our family and friends. A memory forever.

A special day, rounded off with congratulatory wine and, of course, yet another good meal.

Boxing Day, though there's no such thing out here, we're disappointed not to speak with the mum's, who are down in Canterbury today, relying on email and SMS instead. By the way, a nice touch that we can use the internet here 'gratis' - much appreciated.

With talk about whether we can honeymoon in Vegas (Paul of course), we spend the day courtesy of the Sheraton facilities, though return there after dinner to watch the Polynesian performance - great stuff, and the wine didn't break the bank.

Last day today, 27th Dec, and we read some congratulatory messages from home, and get our little diary up to date. Just enough time to get down to the beach one last time (boo-hoo) before making our way back to the ferry and on to the airport in Tahiti.

Nice to meet with Herve and the girls on the Tahiti side, and glad to share one more goodbye.

Hello to Alisyee too - we miss you all.

Our latter plans for the day would have been pretty mundane, had it not been for Teiva, whom we met at the guesthouse. He very kindly offered to meet us in Tahiti for a bite to eat, and a lift to the airport.

We ate at the ´truck´ area a little way from the port, where a group of mobile food sellers set up each evening. Had a nice chat, and was good to spend some time with a ´local´ and hear things from his persepctive. Enjoyed a final meal, thanks Teiva, before stopping at the Sheraton hotel for a cocktail.

Usual boring wait at the airport, and we were robbed (not literally) of our water and toothpaste(!) as we went through security. I guess if I squirted some of that stuff in someones eye, it would really sting, for a bit.

Easter Island, here we come....