Ecuador

Sunday 17th June - Cuenca to Banos

Whoopee, it's Sunday, and a travelling day, so a double whammy of less traffic outside anyway, and being up earlier than anyone else in town, so woken by the alarm rather than sodding cars and buses.

Our final breakfast at Hotel Milan is good and it has been nice enjoying the views from this 4th floor breakfast room.

After settling up (excellent value here for 20 bucks a night) we grab a taxi straight outside and the friendly driver (we didn't speak, but he had a nice face) gets us to the main bus terminal in time to catch the 8.30 bus to take us to Banos.

Not quite a straightforward journey, and we'll have to change about 7 hours into the trip in Ambato. Whilst we're one of the last on the bus, we seem to have been given seats at the front (a little more dangerous in the event of a collision) which are legroom-heaven. The trip to Ambato is $16 for two.

Easy journey, well, we're just sitting here, and we have some tasty vanilla wafers to munch along the route.

Countryside a delight as we thunder through, and we get a varied selection of traditional dress as we make our way up and down the hills. Lots of greenery around and the patchwork effect of the remote, but very productive, fields as we pass by reminds us of home.

Not sure where the bus will drop us in Ambato, as it will be heading on to Quito, so perhaps skipping the main bus terminal here over the other side of town. Turns out to be a side-of-the-road job, but the conductor suggests the terminal isn't far away.

Decide against bothering with the terminal, we¡re on the main road to Banos anyway, so we do as the locals do and wait by the side.

Just a couple of minutes later we're on the Expresso Banos, where we experience the best ever example of something doing what is says on the tin. How we didn't die, at least 23 times, on this bus is a miracle, though the suggested travel time between Ambato and Banos is thoroughly smashed. Hopefully the driver wasn't. Probably the scariest bus ride of the trip so far, and we've been on some real crackers.

At the main terminal we walk towards the recommended accomodation, though it's a fair walk across to the other side of the smallish town. We checkout the Posada del Arte, a small but charming place seeingly run by an American couple. The room is lovely and we're told the breakfast is very good, though it's $35 a night and a little too much, especially without Cable telly.

Just a little way along is Hotel Volcan, though just walking towards reception we feel that we'll be outpriced again. Looks very nice, but even more expensive at $56 a night.

Try two other small places, without success, before seeing what Hostal Carolina has to offer. The room is small but clean, usualy private facilites, cable TV - all for $10 a night, which is the cheapest for a long time. Snag a room at the back to increase our chances of a quieter night/morning. Really didn't think we'd be paying so little in this tourist town! - means we can splash out on some better food.

After settling into the bargain room, we head back to Cafe Ali Cumba, a nice little place on the central square (there's a couple of squares, this one has some trees and a wooden 'Puente de Amor'). It's run by a Danish woman and her Ecuadorian husband - we met her in the street when we were looking for the hostal.

Great sandwiches, coffee, smoothies, chocolate cake were promised, and we were glad to go back and enjoy some of her stuff. Being gringo-owned, it's a touch more expensive, but worth it, and we'll surely be going back.

Pick up some goodies on the way back to the room, including white chocolate.

TV entertains us in the evening, watching a rerun of the Brit Awards 2007, which seems to be suffering from terrible subtitle translation. Oasis performance only spoiled by Liam's poor vocals.

Monday 18th June

Seem to have picked a winner with this accommodation - hardly a noise from outside, though it does make us rise a little later than planned.

Breakfast not included with our room, so head back to Ali Cumba to get some energy ahead of our planned walk for today, our first exercise in far too long. Best fried egg bap since.......

The walk we're doing is the 'loop' up behind the town, which should give us nice views of Banos.

The start of the route takes up us quite steeply, and we're soon feeling very unfit. We heard that there had been many days of straight rain before we arrived, and we can see the follow on effect of some landslip, which we can just about navigate, though it's pretty slippy.

After less than an hour we get to the Bellavista mirador and get a nice view of the town below. It's staying dry for now, though there's clouds all around us, threatening to open up on us.

We don't hang around too long and head further up the trail, making our way to the cobblestone-type road that leads to the Runtun Spa. Got barked at by a couple of dogs, but then welcomed by an aging milk farmer a little further up the track.

We joined him for some fresh tea, and had the longest chat in Spanish than the rest of our time in South America, out together. Surprised that we did so well, and grateful that he spoke slowly for us. Stayed for about an hour, then made our way on up the road. Slipped him a couple of bucks.

Walked further than planned and got to the volcano lookout, though not a chance of seeing the summit with all this cloud around. Heading on, we make our way down the steep and slippy (would be a nightmare in the rain) trail towards the "Virgen statue". Shame to see a religious 'spot' decorated with graffiti, but hardly a surprise nowadays.

A couple of hundred steps lead back down to town and we fancy a smoothie, heading back once again to Ali Cumba. Energy levels back to normal after a piece of warm chocolate cake. Also nice to read some mags here - Newsweek, National Geographic etc, despite them mostly being well out of date.

Hang around for a while before facing up to the internet, and another go at getting us up to date.

Nothing interesting to report for the rest of the day, though had a nice Mexican for din-dins at Pancho Villa on the main street. Looking forward to biking tomorrow.

Tuesday 19th June

A delight to wake up to very little noise, though don't rush to get ot of bed.

Head back to Ali Cumba for breakfast, and leave pleasantly full.

Instead of bikes today, we'll have a walk around town and visit one of the thermal baths. We choose to check out Piscina El Salado and follow the map to the narrow stream, where there's supposed to be a bridge.

We pass some unfriendly dogs down the little path, only to find no bridge, and it looks a little tricky to cross anywhere else, other than the traffic bridge at the bottom of the stream.

We walk it anyway, needing the exercise (though thighs are aching after yesterday's jaunt), but arrive to find the pools full of screaming, and grubby(!), kids. We decide to walk back into town and try and find the other recommended pools, Piscina de La Virgen.

Get thoroughly lost and frustrated trying to find it from the map - we wish someone had said 'just head towards the pretty waterfall that you can see from anywhere in town' - it's right beneath it.

It's mid-afternoon and unfortunately pretty busy with kids, swimmers etc, but it's nice in the water anyway and we stay for a couple of hours, chatting to the couple we met at breakfast yesterday. Paul feels quite good that they are also looking forward to going home, a couple of days after us.

We have a shower back at the room, before heading back to Pancho Villa for more good mexican food. Paul's feeling cheeky and asks if he can have an extra tortilla with his fajitas - no problem. Share a starter too tonight, nice beans and cheese nachos.

Watch some telly in the room before falling to sleep...

Wednesday 20th June

Not a lot today - Paul spends 5 hours straight in the internet (not cheap either in Banos, 2 bucks an hour), but it's great to finally get the blog up to date.

Had a short walk around town, and visited the mirador overlooking the rought river below.

Banos also 'quite' famous for its sticky taffy, which you can see being prepared in shop doorways, with the vendors pulling/stretching it and slapping it back over the hook repeatedly. Tried a small fresh piece of the sweet but subtly flavoured stuff we hope the guy preparing it (without gloves on) has nice clean hands....

Returned to the Pancho Villa on the main street for another excellent Mexican.

That's it for today!

Thursday 21st June

It started raining yesterday afternoon, and continued through the night until we prepared our packs and dressed them in rain covers and walked out for breakfast.

Hoping to get to Quito today, about 3 hours away on the bus.

We hear rumours that there have beenlabdslides on all routes out of here, though the bus company sell us $7 worth of tickets for the journey, and we're due to leave in 40 minutes, at noon.

Noon comes and goes, and we slowly hear more info - sounds like there's 10 crucial metres of road missing. Whilst we wait on the bus we hear the Mayor on the radio, essentially, telling people not to travel today, it's too dangerous.

The bus people suggest tat there'll be more news at 5pm, so we jump off and head back to the accomodation and make the most of the afternoon.

The river is very rough today, and very brown from all the mud it must have been dragging from the riversides way upstream.

Walk around, before stopping for an icecream and then, to cheer the frustration, buy some KIT Kats from the supermarket and escape the ongoing rain to watch TV. Manage to get 5 hours of back to back cop shows, though realise we've missed dinner.

It's still raining at 2am...

Friday 22nd June

Up earlyish to check out the status of the buses. Tourist Office, with a smirk, suggest we'll not be heading to Quito from here for a couple of days, though we can take the roundabout route via Puyo...

We're due on a trip into the jungle on Monday, but need to be in Quito by Saturday to pay for it. Thankfully, we've received an email this morning that offers the chance to pay when we're back in Quito - that's very handy, and very trusting of them.

After a final breakfast at our favourite Cafe Ali Cumba (thought we'd get a discount after daily patronage), we head off to the bus station and get our tickets for the 12.30 bus.

12.30 comes and goes, and we finally leave at 1.20, for the 5 hours to Tena. The ride was fine and it was nice to experience the road that we would have done the bike ride on - shame the rain never, seemed, to stop whilst in Banos.

Obvious evidence of fresh landslides, but we felt safe most of the way along. More waterfalls than usual, thanks to all that rain, though of course this place is also referred to as Highway of the Waterfalls. It follows the Rio Pastaza canyon, dropping from Banos at 1800metres, to Puyo at 950metres.

We're the only tourists getting off in Tena, with the others heading on to Quito. The bus station is a little out of town, though just a few minutes walk towards the centre. We had a couple of places in mind to stay, but walking past Hostel Yasuni ($12 a night, though no breakfast, or hot water - probably won't need it desperately) we're beckoned in and the rooms turn out okay, though we forego a double bed for twins as it looks like it's quieter at the back of the building. Oh, we also forego a toilet seat, but hovering is good for the thighs.

Certainly 'jungle' temperatures here, though the drizzle is probably helping things keep a little cooler.

It's evening now, so we first make a couple of enquiries at rafting shops, though the first one we go to (River People) say that the rivers are too high and they're unlikely to go tomorrow - a little dangerous, and we're grateful for their honesty.

Went into Rios Ecuador next, and they seem to still be taking bookings, though we're put off with the fact that we'll lose 100% of our money if they cancel in the morning. Double pleased we went to the nice/honest people at River People, who perhaps should be called Honest River People.

Dinner followed, at Cositas Ricas - nice enough, though there's not much choice in town.

Nothing after that, and we went back to the room and watched the box, though no AXN channel. Saw a mediocre Denzil Washington flick instead.

Saturday 23rd June

Quietest night's sleep for a while, and we get up later than usual, returning to Cositas Ricas for breakfast.

Nice to see some blue sky too, and that 'tshirt and shorts' feeling - big smiles as we walk to the bus station to buy our ticket out of here for tomorrow, to Coca.

Not much to do in Tena (this is moreso our route into the jungle), though it was nice to visit the small island/jungle reserve in town. It's $2 to visit the spot, where there's some monkeys (sadly some in a cage, though we're told they are rescued), and some other monkeys loose around the place, including a funny looking rat/bat/monkey, called a Tika (maybe wrong spelling). Also some snakes in glass houses, though disturbingly, one of the 'houses' was open at the back.

Several huge Boa Constrictors were kept in a larger cage, and were hanging off a tree.

Various birds flying around the place, and also some Toucan's in a too-small cage, looking bored and frustrated, and some ducks and an Emu too.

The foliage is also nice, and gives us something to look forward to in our trip starting Monday. Not sure if the snakes will be in cages out there though....

Met a nice English couple, Vicky and Mark (Hello guys, if you're reading this - see you in Quito next week!), just as we were leaving and found out that they are in the first week of a year away, and it sounds like they're doing a similar route to us, but the other way around - South America, NZ, Australia, Asia.

Keen to share some hints and tips, we all head off to Cafe Tortuga for some drinks. End up staying there for the rest of the afternoon, enjoying various drinks and some tasty chocolate cake.

The chat continues through dinner at a pizza place just a couple of doors up - Paul says, best pizza in a long time, though it's not the cheapest restaurant in town.

Halfway through dinner, all the rain in the world seems to fall in this town, but times it well enough to stop when we leave to find the ATM, which in turn doesn't work.

Back in the room and we pack to leave tomorrow, up at 6.30. Several puddles in our room following the rain, one dripping near to the ceiling light.

Pleased to be moving on, though not looking forward, too much, to the bus journey tomorrow - supposedly 6 hours.

Sunday 24th June

Groggy start to the day, but jump to it and into the cold shower. Soon woken up.

Thankfully the ATM is working today and we've got enough to cover the next few days in the jungle. No charge for using this ATM, just by the footbridge over the river.

The town is quiet this morning, and only a couple of the shack-shops are open. Our bus leaves just a few minutes after 8am, and slowly makes its way out of town. We assume it was dragging along in the hope of picking up more passengers - there's only about 6 of us on here.

The nice green scenery takes our minds of the snailspace progress, just.

Pleased we snagged seats at the front, for the extra legroom, though we're right in the path of everyone who gets on, and they seem to have other things on their minds than where they are putting their muddy boots. Right on my shiny new trainers. Grrr.

Journey starts to drag as we get towards 2pm and we've just passed a sign that suggests 'Coca - still a little way to go...'.

Football day obviously on a Sunday here too - each town/village we passed seemed to be hosting a kickabout today.

Finally arrive, after countless stops to pick up and drop off other passengers, in Coca and walk the few minutes towards the centre of town.

Checkout the Hotel San Fermin, though find it's closed, and walk on to Hotel El Auca, which looks a little more pricey, though nice for just the one night.

Manage to work our way down from an airconditioned room at $40 a night, to a pretty wooden cabin with ceiling fan for $24. Got the usual private bathroom, Cable TV, as well as a minibar - good for keeping the shop-bought choccies nice and cold.

It has a pretty backyard - lots of trees, and hammocks, together with a handful of various animals and birds - monkeys, parrots and Paca's (cat-size rodent things).

Off to find some internet, though a little concerned that we've read it's $7 an hour....

Phew! - there's a fancy internet place just across from the hotel (it's got an orange colour front), and relieved that an hour online is 'only' $1.40, though you get free popcorn, and waitress service for drinks.

Started to pour with rain next, though we managed a quick look around the smallish riverside town, before having a bite to eat at the hotel, and stocking up on some edible goodies.

Not much else for the rest of the day, it continues to pour with rain, drowning out most of the sound on the TV.

Monday 25th June

Not being picked up for our trip into the jungle until 11.30am, so have a nice breakfast at the internet place we used yesterday - first pancakes in a while.

Other than the last minute packing, we spent a few minutes looking at the animals/birds in the hotel garden. Sorry to see that the parrots and a Toucan had had their wings clipped, though not sure if this is preferable to them being stuck in cages like we saw at the zoo-thing in Tena. The Toucan seems happy jumping around the place and, maybe out of total boredom, chasing Paul's shoelaces, and digging around in his pocket.

Picked up on time from the guys at Sani Lodge and we walk a couple of minutes down to the dock for our 3 hour journey down the Rio Napo (a tributary to the Amazon River)to the lodge.

Sani Lodge is an ecotourism facility, owned and operated by the Sani Isla Quichua community, there's about 500 people in the community, and they own a vast land holding of over 37,000 hectares (90,000 acres), being the largest privately held area of rainforest in all of Ecuador.

The journey is fine as we skim across the surface, weaving from side to side of the wide river to avoid sand banks. Funny that the river develops such shallow areas considering all the rain that falls in these, and surrounding, parts. Whilst we were already aware of the huge oil operations out this way, I guess it was quite sad to see a remote part of the jungle spoiled by huge ferries carrying large lorries connected with the oil industry.

The lodge is located 20 minutes up a small inlet off the Rio Napo, and we transfer to a smaller, slower, dugout canoe for the final stretch through the greenery. Thankfully the canoe has a small outboard motor to speed it through the stream, called Challuayacu, arriving at the lagoon where the lodge sits on the edge. The lagoon is called Challuacocha.

We're greeted by some of the team, including our guides for the next 3 days, Xavier and Freddy. The latter is our 'native' guide, who was born and raised in the community.

After a welcome drink, we are shown to our nice cabin, and unpack our bags, before returning to the bar cabana, which overlooks the lagoon. Not as pretty as it could be, with complete cloud above, though it's dry....for now.

It's midafternoon, and we're pleased that there's an activity squeezed into this first day - a trip across the lagoon and a few minutes walk through the (primary) jungle to a 30 metre tower that has been built around a huge tree. At the top of the tower we get a good view of the canopy, though there are still many trees around that are above us.

We're told that there's not a lot of activity at this time of day, though as the afternoon wears on, to around 5.30, we start to see some more life, though only birds, no monkeys etc. Oh, actually, there are some insects that live in the vines around the top of the tree, including inch-long Conger Ants, which are said to have a nasty bite that will stay painful for many hours. We keep a distance.

Glad we have the binoculars, though not quite powerful enough to afford super-closeup views of the many birds we see, including Toucans, and some others we can't remember the names of.

We stay at the tower until dark comes upon us, and return to the lodge for dinner at 7pm. Nothing to write about re. the dinner - it's 'okay', though portions are small.

After dinner we hang around the bar for a while, playing Jenga and chatting with Colin and his son Joe, before we meet up with our guides for a night safari, which is just a short walk behind our cabins.

Saw a stick insect, various (big) grasshoppers, two small Salamanders and a Tarantula sitting at the edge of his/her nest. Whilst not too many mozzies around the bar and our room, they seem to all be congregating in the jungle, and must be pretty hungry tonight! Survive the night walk, with not even getting pee'd on by a bat.

To bed quite early, as we're due up for breakfast tomorrow morning at 6!

Tuesday 26th June

Up for breakfast for 7am, and the food again is okay, though again we leave still feeling peckish, and we'll be waiting til 1 for lunch.

Today we're off for a visit to the 'centre' of the community - it's the last day of school today, so there's a few things going on for us to see - dancing, singing, school presentations.

Before we get to the centre, which is a 30 minute ride on the canoe, we make a stop on the riverbank and clamber up for a visit to Freddy's house, where we are shown a few medicinal plants and food, and meet a friendly little monkey that lives with the family, as well as 2 dogs and a bunch of chickens.

At the centre we see some preparations for today's dancing, which turns out to be maybe their first run-through - it's a little embarassing, as none of the girls seems to want to be there.

End of term report cards are handed out to the students and while this is happening we step out of the community hall and sit by the football field and enjoy a snack.

We were going to hang around and watch the guys play some football, but we'd rather be making the most of the mostly bright weather to catch site of some wildlife. Gladly we soon make our way back to the boat, and stop on one of the sand islands on the river to have a swim, which turns out to be a swim from one island to another, crossing a fast flowing stretch of water. Pleased that we found a balsa wood log for us to grab onto as we crossed........and missed our island by quite a distance, floating on to the next one.

Glad to survive that jaunt, and be back on dry land (in wet clothes) for a hike through the jungle.

Animals quite quiet as we make our way through, though we come across a group of Woolly Monkeys, the largest and most endangered monkey species in the region.

The rain comes down as we walk along, though we're quite protected by the canopy above, and the ponchos that Xavier magic's out of his backpack. As well as the rain, the wind gets up and Freddy is keen that we make our way out quickly. Even without wind and rain, you can always hear large pieces of shrubbery falling from above, and the trees bury themselves in quite a short depth, making them prone to toppling, though this is good for regeneration of the ground.

The canoe picks us up at the end of the trail and we're soon back at the lodge, relaxing in the bar and again enjoying the views over the lagoon, and the peace and quiet.

After dinner (no change in quantity yet), we head out onto the lagoon in the darkness to trackdown Black Caiman (the largest relative of the alligator - up to 5 metres!). The torches soon pick out the telltale eye reflections and we side up (touching distance, by both parties!) to a 2.5 metre beast. It lets us stare it out for a while before suddenly dropping underwater, making most of the boat occupants jump out of their skin.

No others found, and we're back to dry land and head off early to bed, to be ready for breakfast at 6am!

Wednesday 27th June

to be continued...

Wednesday 13th June - Loja to Cuenca

Moving on today, heading to Cuenca, about 5 hours north.

Meet up with Catja for breakfast at 9.30 and make our way to the 'juice' place, followed by some internet time.

Actually, that should read 'waste of internet time' - appallingly slow connection, worse than dialup - tearing our hair out, and having to pay for the privilege.

Our bus leaves at 1.30pm, so grab a taxi at 12.45 so we're there in plenty of time, and can secure a ticket. We usually book in advance, but lately the buses seem to be quite empty, and fewer and fewer tourists.

We're fine for the tickets, and it's $7.50 each for the 5 hour ride. Catja joined us in the taxi to the terminal to buy her ticket for the overnight bus to Quito tonight - don't envy the 14 hours.

Said our goodbyes and took a seat in the outside waiting area - bus left pretty much on time.

Journey uneventful, though a poor little girl across the aisle from us was (physically) poorly, and we were pleased to help out by offering the grandparents our roll of toilet paper and a plastic bag to put the, er, stuff into. Not sure if there was something going on out of town, but a lot of the local folk on board were dressed up in their traditional clothes. Got a nice 'safe journey' from the lady we helped out.

Arrived in Cuenca early evening - wet, dark and chilly. Didn't notice until the next day, but the taxi that brought us to the hotel had an oily boot, well, it did until our packs helped soak it up.

We chose to check out Hotel Milan, just 2 blocks from the main square/park and immediately pleased. USD20 a night, with breakfast, our own bathroom, TV (no CNN!) and even a safe, so pleased that we don't have to carry around all our valuables for a few days.

Had dinner at a nearby Mexican restaurant (El Pedregal Azteca) - nice bit of grub, though they add tax and service to the bill, an extra 22%, though the food and service both good, also enjoyed our first beer in a while.

Tired after another mostly travelling day, so an early night.

Thursday 14th June

Grrr, it's noisy outside!, but we both slept okay until the traffic outside wakes us just after 6am, and Paul wakes up with a rare headache - could be lack of liquids, or bus-fever. Oh, and the weather is pretty miserable outside too.

Enjoying the juice that comes with breakfast, though still not quite sure what it is - maybe Papaya, though there's something else too...could just be a bunch of sugar.

Checked some emails in the morning, and couldn't believe that my mate Jase has sorted out the MOT for our car (it passed!!!) as well as changing the battery that had died. What a good man! And he's very handsome too. Though, not available at the moment.

Tracked down the Austria Cafe for lunch - pleased to see Frappucinos on the menu, though they're not the best. Nice cakes though, and they even have a english language newspaper to read.

With the weather being pretty foul, it doesn't inspire us to do too much, though had a nice walk along the overflowing river near the centre of town, and then around the streets leading away from the square. We have been trying to track down a cinema, though from the 3 listed in the guide book, none seem to be open and one seems to now be a multistorey carpark.

For dinner we just grabbed some goodies from the bakery a couple of doors up from the hotel. Nice cheese rolls, and yummy custard-filled doughnuts.

Had a walk around the square in the evening, the fiesta continuing on from last night - this time there's some chinese-looking lanterns with some kind of flames inside that are floating up into the cloudy sky - the rising stack looks quite impressive. One of the lanterns catches fire just above the church - must be the devils work.

There's also a band playing and a few fireworks going off every so often, which we can still hear when we're back in the noisy room.

Friday 15th June

Once again, woken up to the sound of traffic. Even though we're on the second floor, it sounds like the buses/trucks/cars are right outside our room.

After breakfast, it's straight down to the internet cafe to press on with getting the blog done - we must get up to date before we leave Cuenca.

Chris heads off to visit the museum and we'll meet up in a couple of hours. The musuem is a little disappointing due to lack of information in English but Chris is amazed by the sight of shrunken heads. The musuem bought them from the Shuar community who live in the southern part of the Oriente (jungle). The practice of shrinking the heads of enemies is now illegal and so they shrink the heads of sloths. Not sure why.

Internet connections still seem to be slow here, and actually grind to a halt about an hour in to the session. Waited around for 15 minutes, looking at a blank screen, then left to find another place. Success, seems to be quicker here, and the keyboard has all the letters on it.

Hey, the PC's here even have headphones, so manage to listen to Faithless playing live from Hyde Park. I bet it's warmer in London than here...

Time flies and Paul meets Chris back at the hotel, though because she had to hand in the phone (with the clock on it) at the museum, she's 40 minutes late and Paul is just a little concerned - we still don't take safety for granted in South America, though he's sure all is well.

We meet up briefly before we bite the bullet to get some more blog done - 3 hours later we meet up and head out for a tasty Burrito at Monday Blue.

The religious celebrations in the square were due to finish yesterday, though there seems to be some action tonight - some schoolkids in a lively procession, some even on stilts and playing with fire. They seem to end up in the church on the main plaza.

Coincidentally, there's a fancy icecream shop on the square too, and we enjoy a couple of yummy milkshakes, before a slow walk back to the hotel.

Chris frowns at what we're watching on TV - more 'zombies' in Doom - she actually had a dream/nightmare about zombies last night after we saw 28 Weeks Later at the cinema last week. No CSI New York/Miami tonight, and we're missing watching Miami Ink too. Umm, I think we need to get out a little more...

Saturday 16th June

Outside noise wakes us up early again, though slept okay thru the night.

No rush out of the room today, and the rain answers the 'what shall we do today?' question.

Pleased to see that the hotel does laundry, and unlike most other hotels, there's no buggering around paying for thing by the item. Nice and simple $2 for washing/$2 for drying, up to 5 kilos, and we'll get it back this afternoon. Big relief for the one of us who has been recycling underwear for a couple of days. At least it keeps the flies of the other member of the party.

Late morning Chris attempts to cheer up travel-weary Mr Grumpy and we head for a milkshake, which goes down very well, though we're nearly killed by sub-tropical death-wasps who also hate the cold and wet outside.

Back to 'El Pedregal Azteca' for a Mexican, and to take up their cheap lunch deal.

A little shopping straight after and Chris is relieved to have found a couple of nice summer dresses to take to Cancun in a couple of weeks, as well as a 'going-out shirt and some perfect fitting jeans. Manage to convey to the friendly girl in the shop that Chris doesn't need anything else, thanks.

Paul goes back to the internet to attack the outstanding blog (it's 'behind', rather than 'marvellous'). Four hours later, he meets Chris back in room 204.

As well as a shoulder pain from too much sitting at the screen, Paul is also forced to endure Bridget Jones - Edge of Reason. Could have been worse, and over-the-top action flick 'Transporter 2' follows, to even things up a bit.

Sunday 17th June - Cuenca to Banos

Whoopee, it's Sunday, and a travelling day, so a double whammy of less traffic outside anyway, and being up earlier than anyone else in town, so woken by the alarm rather than sodding cars and buses.

Our final breakfast at Hotel Milan is good and it has been nice enjoying the views from this 4th floor breakfast room.

After settling up (excellent value here for 20 bucks a night) we grab a taxi straight outside and the friendly driver (we didn't speak, but he had a nice face) gets us to the main bus terminal in time to catch the 8.30 bus to take us to Banos.

Not quite a straightforward journey, and we'll have to change about 7 hours into the trip in Ambato. Whilst we're one of the last on the bus, we seem to have been given seats at the front (a little more dangerous in the event of a collision) which are legroom-heaven. The trip to Ambato is $16 for two.

Easy journey, well, we're just sitting here, and we have some tasty vanilla wafers to munch along the route.

Countryside a delight as we thunder through, and we get a varied selection of traditional dress as we make our way up and down the hills. Lots of greenery around and the patchwork effect of the remote, but very productive, fields as we pass by reminds us of home.

Not sure where the bus will drop us in Ambato, as it will be heading on to Quito, so perhaps skipping the main bus terminal here over the other side of town. Turns out to be a side-of-the-road job, but the conductor suggests the terminal isn't far away.

Decide against bothering with the terminal, we´re on the main road to Banos anyway, so we do as the locals do and wait by the side.

Just a couple of minutes later we're on the Expresso Banos, where we experience the best ever example of something doing what is says on the tin. How we didn't die, at least 23 times, on this bus is a miracle, though the suggested travel time between Ambato and Banos is thoroughly smashed. Hopefully the driver wasn't. Probably the scariest bus ride of the trip so far, and we've been on some real crackers.

At the main terminal we walk towards the recommended accomodation, though it's a fair walk across to the other side of the smallish town. We checkout the Posada del Arte, a small but charming place seeingly run by an American couple. The room is lovely and we're told the breakfast is very good, though it's $34 a night and a little too much, especially without Cable telly.

Just a little way along is Hotel Volcano, though just walking towards reception we feel that we'll be outpriced again. Looks very nice, but even more expensive at $56 a night.

Try two other small places, without success, before seeing what Hostal Carolina has to offer. The room is small but clean, usual private facilites, cable TV - all for $10 a night, which is the cheapest for a long time. Snag a room at the back to increase our chances of a quieter night/morning. Really didn't think we'd be paying so little in this tourist town! - means we can splash out on some better food.

After settling into the bargain room, we head back to Cafe Ali Cumba, a nice little place on the central square (there's a couple of squares, this one has some trees and a wooden 'Puente de Amor'). It's run by a Danish woman and her Ecuadorian husband - we met her in the street when we were looking for the hostal.

Great sandwiches, coffee, smoothies, chocolate cake were promised, and we were glad to go back and enjoy some of her stuff. Being gringo-owned, it's a touch more expensive, but worth it, and we'll surely be going back.

Pick up some goodies on the way back to the room, including white chocolate.

TV entertains us in the evening, watchin a rerun of the Brit Awards 2007, which seems to be suffering from terrible subtitle translation. Oasis performance only spoiled by Liam's poor vocals.

continues on next thread...

Tuesday 12th June - Piura to Loja

Up earlyish as we're leaving Peru today, and crossing the border into Ecuador (our last land border crossing on this trip - must say that all the crossings we've had in South America have been generally really easy. Sometimes they've taken a little longer if we've been on a crowded bus. Pleased that we haven't had any of the awkward situations that you read about - no-one has asked us for money, or nothing of our things/currency been 'impounded').

Anyway, bus gets away just after 9.30am, and we have 8 hours ahead of us. Meet Brighton-living German Catja at the bus terminal and chat throughout the trip. We're off to Cancun for the last two weeks of our year trip, and she doesn't give it the best review, and apparently the shopping is crap....uh-oh.

The border crossing here was fine, and we were glad to avoid the Peru/Ecuador border crossing over in Tumbes, nearer the coast. Have heard several independent stories about shenanigans there - border guards confiscating supposedly dud currency, dodgy taxi drivers (seemingly on the Ecuador side).

The bus ride takes us out of the dry and flat desert up into the lush highlands. Nice views as the bus makes it's way along the edge of the road, and at times we pass distant valleys with low lying clouds beneath us - wish we could stop and admire the view, just for 5 minutes.

On arriving at Loja, simple job of getting the three of us into town, just a few minutes and $1 taxi ride to Hotel Metropolitano. Room there fine, though no breakfast included, and $12 each.

Little more than dropped off the bags and met with Catja and the three of us tracked down some dinner, a nearby pizza restaurant. First salad in a while, very nice, and Paul thought he'd gone for a small 4 slice pizza, which was huge. Cue doggy bag, well, box.

Again, tired after the journey and all of us happy to retire to bed (separately), and we'll meet up with Catja in the morning.

Wednesday 13th June - Loja to Cuenca

Moving on today, heading to Cuenca, about 5 hours north.

Meet up with Catja for breakfast at 9.30 and make our way to the 'juice' place, followed by some internet time.

Actually, that should read 'waste of internet time' - appallingly slow connection, worse than dialup - tearing our hair out, and having to pay for the privilege.

Our bus leaves at 1.30pm, so grab a taxi at 12.45 so we're there in plenty of time, and can secure a ticket. We usually book in advance, but lately the buses seem to be quite empty, and fewer and fewer tourists.

We're fine for the tickets, and it's $7.50 each for the 5 hour ride. Catja joined us in the taxi to the terminal to buy her ticket for the overnight bus to Quito tonight - don't envy the 14 hours.

Said our goodbyes and took a seat in the outside waiting area - bus left pretty much on time.

Journey uneventful, though a poor little girl across the aisle from us was (physically) poorly, and we were pleased to help out by offering the grandparents our roll of toilet paper and a plastic bag to put the, er, stuff into. Not sure if there was something going on out of town, but a lot of the local folk on board were dressed up in their traditional clothes. Got a nice 'safe journey' from the grandparents we helped out.

Arrived in Cuenca early evening - wet, dark and chilly. Didn't notice until the next day, but the taxi that brought us to the hotel had an oily boot, well, it did until our packs helped soak it up.

We chose to check out Hotel Milan, just 2 blocks from the main square/park and immediately pleased. USD20 a night, with breakfast, our own bathroom, TV (no CNN!) and even a safe, so pleased that we don't have to carry around all our valuables for a few days.

Had dinner at a nearby Mexican restaurant (El Pedregal Azteca) - nice bit of grub, though they add tax and service to the bill, an extra 22%, though the food and service both good, also enjoyed our first beer in a while.

Tired after another mostly travelling day, so an early night.

continues on next thread...

The 20 hour stay in Santiago Airport before flying up to Quito (via Quayaquil) was not too bad, though glad we were able to padlock our stuff to our sleeping bench overnight.

The airport was pretty busy/noisy until about 11pm, then we had the place to ourselves, with only a handful of other cheapskates sleeping over.

Surprisingly comfy - Paul managed to kip until 10am, though Chris had been wandering around since the crack of dawn.

Bit of a drag waiting until our flight mid-afternoon, but no problem and we arrived in Quito, Ecuador at 9ish, where we met Christine´s sister, Julie, who arrived about 30 minutes before us.

Friendly lady at the airport sorted us with a taxi ($6) into town and phoned ahead for our room at L'Auberge Inn ($22 for a triple/private facilities), which is located conveniently between New and Old Towns. Easier than expected, a all had a good nights sleep.

Spent our first day mainly in Old Town, struggling somewhat with our basic Spanish, though getting by okay. Enjoyed a late breakfast at Fruiteria Monserrate, and rescued by a friendly local who spoke English.

After some sightseeing in Old Town (pretty architecture and busy little streets) we walked back through to New Town to try and find the Rio Amazonas Hotel, where we kick off our Galapagos trip.

Not the most exciting evening - emails/blog and M&M´s.

Saturday 6th Jan - Up earlyish to repack for the move to New Town - got ourselves a nice room at the Rio Amazonas. Breakfast at the friendly Kallari, then back to Old Town for more looking around, and some ice cream. Splashed out on engagement rings at the weekend market - got the chap down to $2 for both! Of course, for temporary use until we get home.

Visited the beautiful Church of San Agustin - 17th Century, where the Declaration Of Independence (from the Spanish) was signed, on 10th August 1809.

Then onto the Cathedral situated in the Plaza Grande, where there is the tomb of the Mariscal Sucre (officer of Simon Bolivar, the Venezuelan Liberator).

The friendly, but armed, guards at the Presidential Palace let us in for a peek, then on to the Monastery of San Francisco. Sadly there´s some building works going on, so the ceiling is covered. This is Ecuador´s oldest church, from 1534, and finished 70 years later.

Chris and Julie continued the sniffing around and went to La Compania de Jesus - gold throughout (7 tons used to gild the walls).

The girls enjoyed meringues/pastries/brownies and coffee after all the walking. Must be the altitude, some 2800 metres.

Met our Galapagos group (16 of us) back at the hotel, seem a nice, mixed, bunch, then crashed in front of the 80-plus channels, making the most of learning from the Spanish subtitles.

Galapagos trip - Day 1. Up at 5.30am. That´s 5.30am. A quick brekkie at the hotel, then on our way to the airport at 7.

Chaotic scenes at the airport, but we get away on time, though stopping at Quayaquil on the way to the islands. Arrive in Baltra at 11am, after gaining an hour.

The islands look desolate as we come in to land, and there´s plenty of cacti around. Usually looks greener later in the year.

The trip gets off to a good start - sea-lions and marine Iguanas at the port where we get our dinghys to the cruiser.

The boat is great, our cabin is small but perfectly formed. She´s called ´Pelikano´, one of several vessels operated by our tour company, GAP.

No time to hang round - we soon set off towards Santa Cruz island and reach the island by dinghy. Beautiful golden sand at Bachas Beach, though lots of other tourists around.

From the beach we saw - Sally Lightfoot Crabs, vivid red and blue colours, Marine Iguanas sunning themselves, also some mating turtles out in the surf. Lots of monstrous Pelicans diving around us for their catch of the day. A little inland we see a small group of Flamingoes in a lagoon, with Blue Footed Boobies flying above.

On the beach we saw Green Turtle tracks leading up to their nests - we learn that only 1% of hatchlings survive - too many predators around, whether on land, sea or from the air.

Got into the water for some snorkelling - various fish, quite a size, though not particularly pretty coral.

Back on board by 4.30pm - sat around chatting and munching. 6.30 is the time we look at tomorrows schedule - lots on! Meet the crew and enjoy a creamy cocktail. Great dinner, hopefully a good sign for the coming days.

Some stargazing on the topdeck after dinner, then an early night in our cosy airconditioned cabin.

Day 2 - 7am breakfast, then a beach landing on Sombrero Chino Island. There´s a Galapagos Sealion colony here, with lots of pups around, some only a couple of weeks old. Whilst we keep a distance, it´s amazing to get so close - doesn´t seem to bother the wildlife at all.

Lots of mating signs being given off by the Marine Iguanas, which quite happily live side by side with the sealions. Lots of frantic nodding going on by the ´hot´ males, who also develop a greener shade of colour in mating season.

Also here, more crabs scuttling around, as well as Lava Lizards (of course, these islands a result of volcanic activity thousands of years ago).

A couple of Hawks around, including one with a fresh catch of Iguana.

Snorkelling off the dinghy follows - turtles, puffer fish, white tip reef sharks (at least a couple of metres long, though happy to learn that they´re vegetarians).

Sailed on to Bartolome Island, had lunch onboard, then siesta time till 2pm.

The dinghy took us to the rocky shoreline, spotted several Galapagos Penguins, the 2nd smallest in Penguin circles. Snorkelling, we saw 3 HUGE turtles, stingrays, then 2 penguins and a sealion - fantastic! Sealion came within inches for a sniff around. Not such an encounter with the shy penguins, who dart around swiftly.

Back on board, quick shower before returning to land and seeing the volcanic landscape, and the ´pioneer´plants, such as the cactus. These are the hardy species that first ´settled´on the islands. Nice view at the top of the island, of the surrounding bays.

Onboard, briefing ahead of another yummy dinner. Can´t believe what we´ve seen and experienced today - go to bed on a high, though suffer curious dreams....

Day 3 - Sailing to James Bay (Puerto Egas) in the early morning, cruising at 6.30am. Black beach here - more sealions, happy that were walking amongst them.

Along further we see more Marine Iguanas, with one swimming on the surface. Fingers firmly crossed that we´ll get to see them underwater, chomping on seaweed.

Fur-Sealion colony here - poor critters nearly hunted to extinction for their skins. Also here, migrant shore birds and cheeky mockingbirds, finches, doves and Lava Herons.

Breakfast back on board, and set sail to Rabida Island - HUGE pod of Bottlenose Dolphins cross us along the way. Must have been hundreds out there.

Red beach at Rabida. Snorkelling along the rocks - stone scorpion fish, conch cone with bright pink animal inside, also starfish. Then, we hear shouts of Manta Ray! Unfortunately didn´t get too long in its company, but a first for everyone here - what a sight in the shallow water. Unforgettable, and a rare treat. In 10 years of diving we´ve yet to see a Manta Ray.

After lunch we´re off to Santa Cruz - on the way we´re treated to acrobatic displays by the jumping Mantas, as they try to rid themselves of any parasites hitching a ride. Beady eyes on top deck looking for more dolphins and Mantas.

After dinner, we head onto land for a couple of hours - surprised at the level of occupation around the port - some 16000 live on this island.

Another great day!

Day 4 - Breakfast at 7 am, then onshore for a visit to the Darwin Research Station, where we meet Lonesome George, the only one of his giant tortoise species left from the Island of Pinta. Also lots of other giant tortoises, with different types of shells - Domes, Saddlebacks and Intermediate. Unfortunately we weren't allowed to ride any of them.

Also at the Station are several Land Iguanas, who are coloured a lot more pretty than the Marine ones, with a bright orange skin.

We learn that there were once 250,000 giant tortoises in the archipelago, but this number tumbled once man got involved, using their fat for oil and food. Also animal species introduced to the islands (dogs, cats, goats etc) have had a massive impact on the flora and fauna, and there are now many schemes to return the islands to their former status. Unfortunately that does mean the unwanted animals are hunted down as part of the eradication.

A programme continues at the station to rear tortoises before relocating them back on to the other islands - gender can be determined by the temperature during incubation, ie, 27.5 degs for males, and 29 degs for females.

Before returing to our vessel we had a couple of hours to kill in the port town, which included a reconnaisance mission for chocolate. $8 worth.

Lunch back on board, then our second excurion of the day returns us to land, and the short journey to the Highlands, where we meet some wild tortoises, and some birdlife, including the Vermillion Flycatcher, who is a striking red and black colour. Apparently we were lucky to see him/her today.

Visit the nearby lava tunnel, where a resident Barn Owl is there to meet us, though he's quite content to remain with his back to us.

Onboard we meet up with the 6 new folks who have joined our party for the rest of the trip. Nice bunch, so lots of happy sailors.

Our first overnight sailing tonight, to the island of Floreana. Hope it's nice and calm...

Day 5 - Yeah, overnight conditions not too choppy, most folks sleep through the night - several wearing sea-sickness bracelets.

So, Floreana (or Charles) Island - beach landing at Cormorant Point, which has a brown sadny beach, lots of sealions.

Behind the beach is a flamingo-populated lagoon, at least 60 live here.

Walked to the other side of the island, white beach. Greeted by several large turtles out in the surf, also many small stingrays buried in the sand in the shallows.

Later in the morning, we snorkel around Devil's Crown - conditions on the surface pretty choppy, and several mouthfuls of seawater find their way down the snorkel during the session.

Huge shoals of big fish here, but excited to see 5 White Tip Reef Sharks below us. Also, bright yellow Guinea Fowl Puffer fish.

After lunch, and a short sail up the coast of the island to the next bay, we set foor on Post Office Bay. So called, after a Post 'Barrel' from 1793 where sailors would leave their mail to be collected, and hopefully delivered home.

We all left a postcard addressed to home (no stamps, that's the point) and we'll wait to see if any tourists come through who live near us for a hand delivery. Seems that some folks leave cards to pick up again on their next trip to Galapagos, maybe many years later!

Just inland we visit a deep lava tunnel, and walk the 80 metres in torchlight to the end, where seawater enters.

Snorkelled off the beach - not the best a little cloudy, and minimal life to see - a couple of puffers, and small Moray eels.

After dinner, most of the group congregated on the top deck for star gazing. Very peaceful, other than the airconditioning unit buzzing away at the front of the boat.

Another night crossing, this time over to Espanola (or Hood) Island. The most southerly in the archipelago.

Day 6 - Not a great night, a little rough and tired faces over the breakfast table.

Land at Suarez Point - lots of Galapagos Sealions, a Red Marine Iguana colony, Nazca Booby colony, and Blue Footed Booby colony.

Unexpectedly we also saw 4 Waved Albatross, though sadly having a siesta, rather than flapping around in the sky above.

Cheeky Mockingbirds making a beeline for our water bottles here.

Many gulls, Tropic Birds and a Hawk around us.

A sad sight - a juvenile Nazca Booby had been attacked by an adult Booby (the perpetrator was standing nearby with a bloody beak) and several Mockingbirds were pecking at the large wound at the back of its head. We learn that the adults can only cope with one juvenile, therefore, the unwanted are, in one way or another, killed.

Interestingly, the Boobies incubate their eggs by using their feet, rather than sitting in them.

Lucky to see the mating ritual of the Blue Footed Booby - a whistling noise, combined with some flapping, then a tasteful/comedic dance.

A few lava lizards hanging onto the sides of the high cliffs, also an impressive blowhole below.

Sail on to Gardner Bay, then lunch.

Opportunity here for the scuba divers to get into the deep, so Chris and Julie go off with a couple of other to a nearby dive boat, Emcantada.

The rest of us head off in the dinghy for some snorkelling - again, a little choppy, and not the prettiest of sites, though we are treated to a fairly quick sight of 3 Hammerhead Sharks underneath us. Unfortunately not all the group saw them, though Paul glad he did. Other than a few fish, only other highlight was an Eagle Ray. Not forgetting a jellyfish sting to the neck.

The dive group join us in the water, and we learn of their uneventful trip - no Hammerheads, or anything of particular interest.

Not only that, the dive itself was a (dangerous) shambles - broken equipment, poorly led dive against strong currents, no-one's credentials were checked. To cap it all, our guide Walter (who in every other aspect had been very good), seemed to not really care about the feedback he was given.

Last stop of the day was to the nearby long sandy beach - mucho sealions, a Mockingbird stand-off, and the biggest surf seen on the trip. A nice finish to the day.

After dinner, we're called to the side of the boat to see a sea snake alongside us, thankfully several feet away.

Another overnight sail to Santa Fe Island.

Day 7 - Spied several Golden Rays of the side of the boat, then wet landing after breakfast.

Saw Pallidus Land Iguanas, one eating his way through a prickly pear cactus 'leaf' that had fallen to the ground. Interestingly, the Pallidus Iguanas have lost the ability to climb, therefore having to wait for things to fall down to them.

Our last snorkel session followed, this time straight off the back of the boat and a short swim to the low cliffs, where several sealions played in the water, and around us. One tugged at Chris' fin, another sniffing around the underwater camera.

Sailed on to South Plaza Island (with a pod of huge Bottlenose dolphins riding the bow on the way), where we saw Land and Marine Iguanas live together. Hybrid species are produced when the larger/dominant male Marine Iguanas romance with the female land ones.

Colourful vegetation - red fauna and cacti.

Saw several Bachelor sealions taking it easy. These are the fellas that are hounded off their turf.

Birdlife - more red billed Tropicbirds, monstrous Pelicans, gulls and Frigates.

Sailed on and though Canal Itabaca, where whilst waiting for our water tanks to be refilled, we watched as a few Pelicans swam around a nearby boat, occasionally scooping up some unsuspecting fish.

Reminded ourselves, whilst watching the sun begin to set, that this was our last night. Boo-hoo.

Sailed to North Seymour Island, where we parked up for the night.

Day 8 - an early start on this last morning, and on land by 6.30am. Again, more sealions and Iguanas, though the additional view today - nesting Great and Magnificent Frigate birds. Male frigatebirds are black with a patch of red skin at the throat that is the gular sac. During courtship display, the male forces air into the sac, causing it to inflate over a period of 20 minutes into a startling red balloon.

The mood a little subdued this morning (except Mandy, always smiling) - a good sign that everyone has enjoyed the trip. No-one in a hurry to get back to the pick up point for the dinghy.

Onboard we finish packing, settle the bar bill - then, it starts to pour with rain.

We moor up in the bay where we started a week ago, and get back onland for the bus ride to the airport.

Bit of a drag waiting 3 hours before flying, then the additonal delay flying to Quito via Guayaquil. Also, we lose an hour on our way back.

After freshening up at the hotel, most of us meet for a meal in Quito, at the Magic Bean. A nice finish to the trip, with a nice bunch of folks.

Monday 15th Jan - our last full day in Quito, meet up with Duncan and Rachel for brekky and agree to meet for a taxi to take us to the Panecillo. We could walk it, but we're warned that the walk up is a little dangerous and we could be mugged.

Surprised to see Mandy return to the hotel - was due to fly this morning, though her flight was cancelled....6 months ago. Quite odd as our GAP rep assured us all that our flights had been reconfirmed, and no changes. At least she can join us for the day ahead of her flight this evening.

Nice views from the top, looking over Old Town, with New Town in the distance. The city looks huge from here.

Then, back in the taxi up to Teleferiqo, where we catch a cable car up a further 2500 metres up Volcan Pichincha, to the top of Cruz Loma. Wow, back at 4100 metres, and feeling it as we walk around, slowly. Again, nice views of the city from the top.

In the afternoon, Paul wasted 3 hours waiting for our piccies to be put on DVD, whilst Chris and Julie stepped out for a bit of light shopping.

Tears (or Hayfever perhaps) from Rachel as we say goodbye to her and Duncan - hopefully we'll see them again, in New Zealand....

Dinner that night back at the Magic Bean...yummy, though 3 of us leave feeling uncomfortably full.

16th Jan, our last day in Quite (until we return in a few months) - Chris and Julie meet up with Samantha from our Galapagos trip and pay a visit to Capilla Del Hambre (Chapel of Man) and the gallery of Oswaldo Guayasamin, with his pictures as a tribute to human kind. Not a lot of fun - the art depicting the pains suffered by those under cruel dictators and/or poverty. Covers not only South America, but India and Africa. Odd that we saw pictures of teh artist with Fidel Castro and Chairman Mao. Apparently, he hated Pinoche.

A mural there is dedicated to the people (slaves) who lost their lives in the silver mines in Bolivia. The museum was opened after the artists death in 1999, with some of his work being finished in clay from drawings.

Also, saw the outside and garden of his house - lovely old car stored there, as well as his ashes, which are buried next to a small shrine.

Spent some time in the aftrenoon catching up with the blog, and eating the free cookies in the hotel reception, before heading from the hotel to the airport for our 8.30pm flight to Buenos Aires, via Lima.

Not sure of the name of the international airport in Quito, but it could easily be pronounced 'Shite-hole', and we pay US$38 for the privilege of leaving the place.

A little panic shortly before we're due to board - Julie's name is called out and it appears that teh security guys want to check her bag. Turns out to be here checked-in luggage and we get a little anxious as 20+ minutes passes, and we're called for boarding. In the end, no panic, and they let her through with her Nicotine pills. No internal searches required. This time...

Thanks to the nice lady at check-in, we score exit seats, which we believe are for the first leg to Lima - wrong! After a short wait in Lima we board for the longer journey to BA - Paul beaming as he's in legroom heaven. Of course, disappointed to see a lack of personal TV's. Miserable git.

Buenos Aires continues on next exciting thread.....