Backpacking

After 5 days of citydom, we get back on the truck to spend the next 5 nights camping and covering many hundreds of kilometres between Lhasa and Lanzhou.

Not a great deal to report, but the landscape changed dramatically - from snow capped peaks, to desert. The roads remained pretty good, so not so many bumps.

Sitting at the back of the truck was something of a wind tunnel, and grateful for being wrapped up in a blanket.

Whilst the landsacape was truly amazing, boredom did eventually set in and we played a game of 'Guess The Crisp Flavour'. Despite 4 different coloured bags, they all managed to taste the same - chicken-y, though I think they were some kind of spicy pork and egg.

Camping seemed like a chore to look forward to at the end of the day, but after a couple of days you get into a bit of a routine - I think we got an A-frame tent up in 9 minutes at best.

Camp fires were pretty cool, and Yak dung (dry!) does work well in place of wood, though we held back on the marshmallows.

As part of a travelling group, we were all assigned different chores (head of leftovers, tent management, chief of larder) as well as having to take a turn in cooking breakfast, lunch an dinner. Thought it would be a nightmare, but didn't turn out too bad in the end and no leftovers to discard on the day we cooked.

Most of us now past the altitude sickness, though glad to be heading down to less than 2500 metres. We were hoping to feel 'amazing' when we got back down to thicker air, but didn't seem to happen for us - maybe too long on the road/our backsides.

Many k's later, and we arrive back in civilisation - Lanzhou.

Paul and Chris

Now off the road for five days and into Lhasa, the capital of Tibet, and home of the Dalai Lama - well, it would be if he wasn't in exile in India!

The hotel in the pleasant end of town (the Tibetan end) and well placed for getting around the city, which is mainly walking!

First sight to see was Barkhor Square - on the face of it a tacky tourist area, with stall after stall selling the same crappy souvenirs or clothes. Looking past that, the area is highly atmospheric and you find yourself sucked into the clockwise procession alongside the pilgrims, making their way around the Jokhang temple. Whether spinning a prayer wheel, playing with beads, chanting ('Om Mani Padme Hom' - 'Hail to the Jewel in the Lotus')or 'prostrating' (the motion of their prayer position, stretching out on the floor as you make your way around the temple) - the sight was amazing! And yes, more smells of rancid Yak butter.

Regrettably neither of us took the leap of faith that is to try some Yak butter tea - a nasty concoction, containing....you guessed it! Hats off to Justin for placing his firm order!

The Potala (spared during the cultural revolution - winter residence of the Dalai Lama and prior seat of the Tibetan goverment) is the main attraction in Lhasa. A stunning building, both inside and out, though a shame that so much of the inside is restricted access - you can probably get into 20 rooms, out of many hundreds. Therefore, considering the 7 hour queue for tickets the previous day (from 6am!), together with joining a scrum that developed from an orderly queue - something of an expedition!

Having said that, Paul chose to take up a mountain bike tour on the morning of ticket queueing, leaving Little Chris to fight off the chinese (in the nicest way).

Cycling through town a bit of an experience, and with the instruction to 'not hesitate or make eye contact', we faced up to the cars head-on, and survived!

From cycling to horseriding - Chris spent a day in the saddle and came across some local horsemen blessing the valley, in full regalia.

Lhasa also the first place for us to experience nightclubbing, Chinese-style. Again, feeling goldfish like as this group of westerners make their way across the floor! Was all in good humour and I'm sure we made some friends with our moves.

Next stop ....five long days on the road, and lots of camping!

For anyone coming to Lhasa - must read '5 Years in Tibet' - even though it's 10 years old, not much seems to have changed.

Despite still being at high altitude, the sun continues to scorch, and the thin air is playing havoc with dry, cracked, lips. We keep smiling....

Paul and Little Chris

The route away from Everest took us several hours to a a small place called Shegar, where we met back up with the big truck and a waiting rice salad, and the stinkiest toilets encountered so far. Filth!

The afternoon drive and a bumpy road to Lhatse didn't quite go to plan. The Chinese have a different view on how to do roadworks - rather than close off a small bit and allow traffic to get around, they choose to close the whole road - both directions!

Five hours, and after a stream of curious locals climbing the steps to look into the truck, later.....and we manage to get some transport on the other side of the road closure to our hotel at 11pm. I use the word hotel quite loosely - and won't even mention the toilets. Oh goody, we need to be up at 6am the next day for a loooong drive to Shigatse.

Out of the wilderness, we stumble across civilisation and the nearest thing to a western hotel - really, it was quite nice and even more welcoming to know that we'd be staying for three comfortable nights, with a proper sit-down toilet and loo paper.

Shigatse is the second largest city in Tibet and the main attraction is the Tashilhunpo monastery - the seat of the Panchem Lamas. Briefly, the Panchem Lamas are 'second' to the Dalai Lamas.

The monastery is in a huge compound and brimming with chapels and chanting monks. One lasting memory is the smell of burning Yak butter, which is given as an offering by the pilgrims. Additionally, money (small notes!) is liberally scattered around the chapels, tucked here and there - seems to me (Paul) that you need to buy your way into a prosperous future. At least counting the money keeps the monks busy, very busy!

Chris was blown away by the whole religious experience and the kindness of the pilgrims and monks. Chris took the route of the pilgrims around the monastery and was fascinated by the devoted pilgrims spinning the prayer wheels.

Out of Shigatse for a day and to see the Pelkor Chode monastery at Gyantse. Whilst we had been accompanied by a Tibetan guide since the China border, today was the one and only time he gave a little history as we walked around the monastery - a real shame he'd not done so before, local knowledge really adds so much to a place.

Also in Gyantse was a steep walk up the Dzong (a fort), which was the sight of the battle between the British and Tibetans in 1904. The fort also contains the 'Anti-British' museum, giving the Chinese view of the 'invasion'. Felt like the climb to the top of the fort achieved a heartrate bpm of 188...

Paul, Chris and the pilgrims

Out of Tingri next day, for the travelling comfort of a Landcruiser and an off-road excursion to Base Camp.

Fantastic landscape along the way, as well as the usual sight of nomadic Tibetans, and their bright white teeth, tucked behind wide smiles. The climate conditions don't seem to do a lot for the complexion, their skin seemingly leather-like.

Through green valleys, rocky valleys and streams we make our way towards the Rongphu Monastery (4980 metres, highest in the world), though one of the vehicles had a puncture on the way up.

Across from the monastery is where you pick up the pony and cart to take you the final 8 kilometres to Base Camp. Poor little ponies - the nasty man made our convoy take a steeper shortcut and the little pony hooves were slipping. Little Chris got a bit upset.

It would have been nice to have walked that final track, but was quite a bit uphill and it was something of a struggle to walk 100 yards!

Unfortunately the weather conditions not great, and the view of 'Big E' was masked by cloud - it should be in full view all the way up to Base Camp.

Base Camp (5200 metres) is a curious collection of tea houses (where the sofas double up as bedding for the night), with the obligatory sale of souvenir items. Even more curious is that there is a mobile signal up there!

Fact - Base Camp was first used/set up by the British Everest expedition in 1924. Souvenirs were not available at that time, nor was mobile phone coverage.

We spent most of the day taking it easy and eating chocolate and drinking tea - unfortunately, the clouds failed to clear, though you could see a bit of Everest.

With just one night's stay at Camp, fingers were firmly crossed for a view the next morning - I guess prayers must work, as we were treated to a fantastic early morning view of the North Face, though we were teased whilst the low mist cleared and the sun popped up.

Really was an amazing scene to be standing 'just' 3500-odd metres from the top of the world - our breath was quite literally taken away!

Sadly, time was against us and our pony train took us back to the Monastery, but we enjoyed the view of Everest all the way back down the valley.

Fact - British Leyland produced a van called a 'Sherpa' - coincidentally, Sherpa's are also the folks who live on/around Mount Everest, and have played a key role in all Everest accents. There is no record of a Sherpa van ascending Everest.

Paul and Chris, and the little ponies

After meeting our travelling buddies for the next 4 weeks last night, we seem to have a good group and should get on just fine. Curiously, only 10 on the trip, plus 2 drivers/guides (women drivers!), whereas the trip caters for up to 22.

With our stuff all packed away in underseat lockers, we get on the road, making our way out of town - great scenery, and the foul air of the city fading away, though toilet standards as grim as ever. Maybe the facemasks aren't for the city pollution after all...

The first day sees us arrive at something of an oasis - The Last Resort, an out of town haven, both for peace as well as something more adventurous. First impressions for Paul were 'oh my god' as the entry into the resort was across a Jacob's Ladder, with a huge drop, from where you can bungy. Apparently, this is a higher drop than the highest in New Zealand(??) - either way, not fun to cross in the rain.

That said, it was a nice, peaceful, place to stay overnight, and Paul enjoyed an hour or so, full body (back and front - not the middle bit) massage. We both passed up the opportunity to scale down waterfalls in a wetsuit - 'canyoning'.

Next day, making our way to the China (Tibet in truth) border. Fantastic scenery along the way - huge walls of mountain either side, with the numerous waterfalls only enhancing the view - or at least taking your mind off the sheer drops just a couple of feet to the right.

Altitude begins to play a part in our daily routine from here, with warnings that we'd need to drink plently, and do very little in order to acclimatise.

Lots of fun at the border - though not too much to worry about getting out of Nepal. This was our first taste of Chinese red-tape - and to cut a long story short, 29 hours later, we were allowed through. Thanks, China! Seemingly our guide (groups need to be guided through the country) was not going to meet us until the next day, with the necessary travel permit. One grim hotel night later (damp/smelly) enhanced by Snickers and Mars, we finally got away the next afternoon... As we entered China, we were subjected to a short questionnaire, but shocked to have a 'laser-gun type thing' pointed at our heads. Thankfully nothing more than an external thermometer - I'm sure the experience could have been made a lot more personal, and intrusive!

Back on the (bumpy) road, to Nyalam - all recollection of truck/travel now coming back - and we wind our way up to 3750 metres, and the altitude effects start to take their toll on some of the group - and, it's bloody cold up here! Thanks to the people of Kathmandu for making nice warm hooded jumpers!

From Nyalam, we moved onward for our first night camping and the sight of Yaks and multi-coloured prayer flags (a Tibetan speciality). Oh for a 4-season sleeping bag! Almost forgot, tonight our first experience of being a goldfish in a bowl - a goat-herder stood transfixed as we laid out our cooking gear and tents - at least he enjoyed some of our leftovers. Fact - Yaks can't live at less than 3000 metres.

Now up at 4300 metres as we get to Tingri, though after crossing a mountain pass at 5100 metres. To quote Lonely Planet, Tingri is 'a photogenic huddle of Tibetan homes that overlook a sweeping plain, bordered by towering Himalayan peaks' - which is about right, though I'd add that this town is just short of one Clint Eastwood - very Wild-west-like. Chris not very well here, with a little bit of sick. Our room nice and bright, with full-on Snoopy motif.

One strange thing we're experiencing is that, despite the cold at altitude, the sun is very strong - I guess like it is for the skiers out there. Next stop, Mount Everest!

Paul and Chris

Spent a day in Durbar Square, which is crammed full of buildings, whether temples, souvenir shops, toilets etc. We saw our first 'living goddess' - a female youth, chosen to continue the role until puberty. Briefly, she needs to undergo 32 strict physical requirements and various ordeals, such as spending time alone in a room in the dark with scary noises, or surrounded by sacrificed animals. She still seems to be smiling though, just...

Definitely was worth the couple 'o quid to get a guide to explain more about the history of the temples, as well as religious info, though sadly we seem to have forgotten most of that - sorry, too much to take in.

Just next to the Square is, what is now known as 'Freak Street', which is a 60's throwback to the days of a visit by The Beatles. Apparently, they took some drugs there, allegedly, and there's still too many hippies hanging around, man.

Also, took a trip out to the Monkey Temple, but made the initial first mistake of arriving whilst chomping on a banana. Our carrier bag of edible goodies was soon snatched, but soon retrieved, less the bananas. The temple quite interesting, and good views of the Kathmandu Valley, out to the airport. Of course, like lots of other tourist-y areas, we weren't short of offers to buy all manner of crap.

Our last temple stop in Kathmandu was Pashupatinath - a mecca of sorts, where the most curious (for us) of things happens - open air cremations, operating 24/7. Despite the 'corpses' being shrouded in cloth, and with various bits and bobs placed in their mouths (gold and combustibles - the soul takes flight out of the mouth), we did manage to see a smouldering foot and arm. Sorry to be flippant, but was a very interesting experience - again, given depth with the help of a local guide. As well as the macabre, there was also much Kama Sutra action on show in the form of carvings adorning the temple roofs.

The last part of our time in Nepal was to meet up with our travelling companions for our overland trip for the next 4 weeks......

Paul and Chris

19th July - up bright and early after a late night to bed doing the last few things at home (I wish we'd packed our house up weeks ago!).

Realised that my rucksack wasn't going to carry as much as I thought, but have managed to squeeze in all the essentials.

The flight out to Bahrain uneventful, though an hour or so delayed and after several hours wait in Bahrain we took the overnight flight with Gulf Air to Kathmandu. I regret, no seat-back TV's on that leg of the journey but the in-flight mag was, er, interesting.

Got to our hotel (Hotel Ganesh Himal) in time for breakfast (a Coke) then spent most of the rest of the day asleep. The hotel is fine - and in a quiet location - so a nice change from the madness of the surrounding streets. Seems to be just us and another guy staying here, though it is low season.

The streets round here are a constant symphony of cars, bikes, goats and horns, with added fumes and smoke for atmosphere. The lack of space to get around doesn't seem to trouble people and there's no sign of road rage at all, though use of the horn could be some way to let off steam.

People here very friendly and we feel safe, despite the troubles here just a couple of months ago, when travelling here was a no-go. It has been interesting to hear first hand how things have been here over the last couple of years - very tough.

We've yet to see outside of the Kathmandu Valley - inside tends to revolve around places of worship, though we've yet to explore in great detail. The view from the Monkey Temple seems to be the best view around here.

We've picked up on at least 7 new smells since we arrived. but one of those may have been me.

Considering the weather forecast was for days and days of thunder showers, we've yet to see that, though had a little rain. Not too hot, similar to the current heatwave in the UK.

Meeting with the group with whom we travel through China tomorrow - please, please, please let them be cool!, then we leave Kathmandu on Tuesday for the next part of the trip.

Have mostly been playing Bomberman and Trauma Center on the Nintendo.

Have mostly been listening to Queens of the Stone Age and Aphex Twin.

No dodgy stomach yet, though Chris had a little bit of sick at the side of the road yesterday - she's fine now, just a little excited I guess.

Must get going now, for a Gaylord Ice Cream - sorry, just had to mention it.

Paul xx