Backpacking

Buenos Aires

Touched down in BA at 7.20am - a little tense moment trying to sort some accomodation from the airport - again, wishing we'd immersed ourselves in Spanish many moons ago...

Transport from the airport nice and easy - there's a booth just past the customs gate and several choices, including a minibus, which makes stops all around downtown, or our own taxi right to the door.

Plumping for the latter (about GBP13 between the 3 of us) we get to the Hostel Inn in San Telmo. Unfortunately we can't checking for a couple of hours and end up split up in single sex dorms, with 8 beds in each. Great, that'll be a quiet nights sleep tonight then....

With map in hand we hit the pavements towards Plaza De Mayo and Florida Street (the main shopping street in Centro). As well as buying some new shorts, Julie tried to wreck the shop by pulling a clothes rail of its hinges.

Walked up to Plaza de San Martin and sat around in the park watching the world go by, whilst eating a bargain bag of Peanut M&Ms.

More walking in the heat takes us to Puerto Madero, saw the bridge which is meant to resemble two people dancing. Can't quite see it ourselves, though we are a bit tired today, after our overnight flight. Paul makes a mental note of the Hooters restaurant by the quayside. Nearby theres a 'replica' of Sydney Opera House.

Walked our way back through San Telmo to the hostel and showered before Chris and I walked back to Centro for some cash. Bit of a music event warming up in the gardens at the Plaza de Mayo, so sat down in the late afternoon sun. Nice, doesn't get dark here till 9ish.

Picked up a couple of Pizzas on the way back and stuffed ourselves before a, supposed, early night.

We're all for a lively hostel, but it sucked tonight, with music echoing around and folks quite happy to talk loudly/slam doors/leave doors open etc etc. Nevermind, it speeds up our departure over to Uruguay and nudges us that we'll need to book ahead for our accomodation in South America.

Uruguay - Colonia

18th January - Nice and early taxi (wow, taxis really are cheap here) to the Buquebus ferry terminal - the main option for getting across the water to Uruguay.

Thankfully we err on the side of caution and get to the ferry with little time to spare for getting tickets (you book you ticket at one desk, then pay for it at another, before checking in elsewhere, then finally going through immigration - both the Argentinian and Uruguayan guys sit next to each other to stamp you in/out).

We're on the fast ferry for a 50 minute trip to Colonia del Sacramento - nice and clean, fast etc. We even get a little breakfast given to us on the way. Notice that the sea is a dirty brown from one international coast to the other.

Arriving across the water we grab our bags and walk straight for accomodation, which turned out to be the Colonial Hotel (it's a hostel) - thankfully we snag the last 4-person room for the three of us. Feel a little bad for the older couple who arrived by taxi to a full house. The rooms are basic, but clean and cheap, and the atmosphere around the place is nice.

Walked to the old town area, very quaint and laid back. Enjoyed drinks at the San Pedro Cafe at the Plaza de Mayo before getting back to the hostel in the early evening - again, an early night. This time, little noise, though a little hot and the fan doesn't oscillate.

19th Jan - Up at 10 ish and skip the free basic breakfast at the hostel for a 3-course/GBP2 one just up the road. Looking forward to more Creme Caramel...

Back into the old town and we followed the walking tour from the Lonely Planet guide, adding our own diversions, via drinks/snacks/ice creams. Went through Plaza de mayo, Calle de Los Suspiros (colonial houses), past General Lavellejas residence and the ruins of the 17th Century Convento de San Francisco and up the lighthouse. To the coast and to the Plaza de Armas (ruins of a house) and went into the Iglesia Matriz - amazing lit-up Nativity displayed here. This is Uruguays oldest church, though has been rebuilt twice - reminds me of Trigger's aged broom, with 3 new heads and two new handles.

Walked across to the Port - Puerto Viejo - and the surrounding streets.

Paul continues to suffer with a minor athletes foot (does this need to go in here???) and at the pharmacy does a good job of asking for the appropriate treatment. We must look up the Spanish word for 'spray', though 'Tsst-tsst' served us very well this time.

Back at the hostel we sort out our next accomodation in Montevideo. We'd also sorted our onward bus ticket to Montevideo.

Back in town, Chris and Julie go into the various museums - Museo Municipal, Museo Espanol - unfortunately not a lot of info in English, but interesting to see the buildings, especially the tiny Portuguese house.

Dinner in town, with beer by the litre.

Glad for a restful time in Colonia - not a huge amount to do, but a nice couple of days.

Uruguay - Montevideo

20th January - Two and a half hours bus ride to the Uruguayan capital of Montevideo - no problems and we arrive right on time. Taxi to our accomodation (Che Legarto - recommended, nice bunch of folks) right in the corner of the Plaza de Independencia, facing the Mausoleo de Antigas - Uruguays Independence Hero.

Wandered around town, quite busy with folks. Visited the mausoleum - a curious, large, underground room, with two guards keeping a perfectly still and silent watch.

Walked down Sarandi to the shore, then onto the Puerto where the Queen Mary 2 is berthed. What a size! - would have been nice to get a peek onboard.

Walking through Plaza Zabaia we are stopped by an elderly man, speaking nothing but Spanish, though we make out that he's not after our valuables, but pointing out a nearby 'palace' (Palace Taranico) at the corner of the Plaza. He walks us there and, continuing in fast Spanish, tells us about the house as we walk around. Very ornate and beautiful (the building, not the man).

Inside we meet an English couple who are on the QM2 - we find out that the ship is on an 'around the world in 80 days' trip, though they're on for just 2 weeks.

After trying to sort out accomodation for Punta Del Este, and failing, we head for dinner in town and we notice some old folks dressed 'up to the nines', whatever that actually means. Julie and Chris watch a chorus perform in one of the squares - Paul went back to the hostel.

21st January - decide to stay on another night in Montevideo.

The local area a little quiet today, being the weekend, though we're advised to visit the local market - said to be the biggest street market in South America. Well, yes it's a whopper and there's everything here - from fish to bent CD's, with all kinds of food inbetween.

Pizza for lunch for the girls, Paul had a monster steak sandwich (Chivito), about 20 centimetres high.

After a welcome siesta Chris and Paul walk down to the shore and watch the locals enjoying the glorious weather. Back at the hostel we crack on with some cocktails (Cuba Libre in particular). Ahead of dinner (BBQ at the hostel) we head out to watch a street performance by some old folks.

Waited ages for the BBQ, but enjoyed it when it came.

22nd January - On the 11am bus to Punta Del Este - excited to be heading to the beach for a few days. Not a huge ride and we're there by 1.30, though spent at least an hour trying to sort out our return journey to Montevideo, which was to include the boat back to Buenos Aires. Glad we got it sorted, rather than panicing on the day of departure.

We're actually staying about 30 minutes bus ride up the road in Manantiales, at the YHI hostel there. Finally get to our digs at 4pm(!). Hostel is 'okay' - not quite situated where the bus drops you off, but 500 metres off the track. Also, the availability of lockers turns out to be one small safe for everyone to share.

Annoyingly, realised too late that we needed more cash, so back on the bus to Punta Del Este - no ATM's in Manatiales. No big problem as we spend the rest of the evening in town.

Back at the hostel, struggle to sleep - room must be 5000 degrees, and our room sits in the middle of two sources of loud music. Thanks for that! Again, the hostel not getting too many plus points. Oh, and the bathrooms are pretty crap too. At least there's a friendly puppy, with sharp teeth.

23rd Jan - Up late, 10-ish, had free brekkie at the hostel and then walked 10 minutes to the beach.

Considering that Punta Del Este area/Bikini Beach is 'the' beach spot in Uruguay, it's not great and the water is as murky as the South Coast of England, though there's no turds here.

Burnt our feet walking across the sand, though pleased to get hold of a couple of umbrellas. Water pleasantly cold inbetween sunbathing sessions. Late afternoon we head back into Punta Del Este and walk along the seafront to the harbour. Beautiful sunset and watched an opera singer entertain a restaurant crowd.

Found ourselves some dinner at the Blue Cheese restaurant - nice, but quite expensive - a little change from GBP25 for 2 of us. And, only a couple of beers.

Back to our room by midnight - still very noisy and hot, we managed a few hours broken sleep.

24th January - Back down to the beach. Bit of action a little way up the beach - a car (unmanned) rolled down the road and crashed onto the beach. Seemed a big deal to the huge group of locals that gathered.

Noticed a plane fly along the coast, trailing a banner for 'Seal - Conrad - Tonight'. Put 2 and 2 together and worked out that Seal was in town - which was confirmed on his website.

Made our way down to the fancy Conrad hotel that night, but put off by the ticket price - some GBP35. Happily spent a lot less on Pizza and Ice Cream, whilst humming 'Killer'.

Another hot and equally noisy night at the hostel, with special thanks to the Irish lads who kept us up, and entertained. They were hilarious. Really.

25th January - tired of being tired, but glad to be moving on, back to Buenos Aires. We hear that one of the Irish boys has gone missing after last nights 'fun'. After a local helps them get through to the Police to report it, the monkey turns up in another room. Class act!

Back to Buenos Aires

The journey back to Argentina is nice and easy, if not quite expensive - over GBP100 for the 3 of us.

Arrive at our pre-booked accomodation in Palermo - 'Caseron Porteno' by 5-ish, after losing an hour with the time difference - very pleased with our lovely room, and happy to pay US$40 a night in these surroundings. Wow, we even have our own private bathroom! Looking forward to breakfast, and no rush - anytime up till noon.

Very clean here, nice garden with friendly cats. Free tango lessons available too, though we skip that for dinner instead. Enjoyed a healthy organic/veggie dinner at Bio. Not too expensive.

26th Jan - Slept in, very comfortable. Nice breakfast, served, rather than help yourself. Yummy pastries, yoghurt for the first time in months, and plenty fresh toast, jam, cheese and ham. Oh, and freshly squeezed orange juice too.

Took a cab down to Plaza de Mayo, had hoped to get into the Casa Rosada, but it's closed until March for a refurb. At the other end of the Plaza is the Cathedral, which inside houses the tomb of General Jose de San Martin - the revered liberator. Very nice inside the Cathedral.

Then walked down to the Obelisco - the tall concrete needle in the middle of the widest street in the world, supposedly.

After that, to Plaza Lavalle to take a look at the National Theatre. Found ourselves in the court instead. Once we found the NT, again we find ourselves in the middle of a refurb till March.

Back to the shops on Florida and a visit to the Galeria Pacificos.

Started hammering with rain as we left - sought refuge in McDonalds.

In between showers we made our way up to Plaza de San Martin and saw the monument to th Argentinians who died in the Falklands/Malvinas conflict. Nearby is their 'Big Ben' - or, Torres de Los Ingles. The Brits gave this 76m high clock tower to Argentina back in 1916.

Walked back into Centro via Plaza De Mayo and along Avenida De Mayo to visit Cafe Tortoni - the most famous cafe in Buenos Aires. Popped inside for a quick look at the amazing decor, though passed on refreshments this time. Had planned to book in for the following night's tango show, but wanted to get some advice on the best tango shows from the folks at our accomodation.

All the rain in the world seemed to be falling as we left - got absolutely soaked crossing the pavement to a taxi.

Back at the digs, Chris and Julie join a Tango lesson - Paul chickened out this time.

Ate locally, in a busy restaurant - rolled home, again, uncomfortably full.

27th January - early start to the day, 7.30am, and walked the 30 mintues to the Cemetary, hoping to find Eva Peron's grave. Spent a while looking around the cemetary site, though despite following the directions in the book to find her bit, we're still lost. Things become clearer when Paul marries up the name of the cemetary we need to be at, with the one we are actually at. You've guessed it. It was a nice place anyway, if not the wrong one.

Dropped our valuables off on the way back, before getting on the Subte (Metro/subway) towards La Boca. By the way, the 'underground' system is very efficient and really cheap - we felt absolutely safe too. Took a taxi from the subway, just 5 minutes to La Boca, home of the Boca Juniors.

Known for its multicoloured buildings, painted using any leftover paints from the shipyards nearby, the tourist area was quite busy, but interesting. Many restaurants luring tourists in with Tango dancers outside.

Whilst wary of walking outside of the obvious tourist areas, we walked down to the BJ stadium, and stepped inside the museum area. No match on today, hopefully we'll catch something when we return to BA at the end of February. Interesting murals decorate the outside of the stadium, and despite no game today, plenty of folks around and in the team shop.

Taxi and tube back towards Centro, and we make our way to the Recoleta area, where we'll make a proper visit to the cemetary where Eva Peron rests. Very impressive site - huge marble family monuments, though sad to see some in a poor state of repair. There was a small crowd continually gathered around Eva Peron's tomb.

Sat down for an icecream after all the walking - Chris and Julie taxi it back, Paul decides that his 3-scoops demand sweating off, so he walks the hour or so back to Palermo.

Relaxed back at the accomodation, before the girls enjoy their second Tango lesson.

In the evening we head off to the outskirts of San Telmo for an evening of guitar music, courtesy of Juanjo Dominguez, and Hugo Rivas. Incredible stuff, never seen guitar played so perfectly before. Really enjoyable evening - bought a couple of his CD's.

Afterwards, we had hoped to visit a Milonga (tango club), but the one we planned to visit was closed, for maybe a private lesson.

Didn't bother trying to finds another, and jumped in a taxi for the 100mph ride home. Arrived safely and seemingly a few minutes before we actually left!

28th January - Up early again, enjoyed our lovely breakfast. Chris and Julie not so fussed about having cakes so early, but Paul more than happy to take their share.

Tube'd it to San Juan station and walked down to Plaza Dorego to visit the antique market. The market continues along Defensa, and is closed to traffic, so we enjoyed a lazy stroll amongst the crowds.

Stepped inside the Basilica de Santo Domingo (18th Century - British sought refuge here during the invasion of 1806 - shrapnel marks still evident in teh left tower).

Visited Cafe Tortoni again, this time enjoyed some coffee and cream. Watch a waiter enjoy the last dregs of someones wine that had been left on a table. Hmm, classy.

From Catedral station we head to the big park area of Plaza Italia. Chris and Julie walked from here to the Eva Peron Museum. Certainly an amazing woman - her father died when she was young - she and her mother came to BA, where she got herself into films. Married Juan Domingo Peron (the President in 1946) and became a hugely popular first lady. She formed a powerful social assistance foundation, known as Evita, which helped lower class women - she also fought for the right to vote.

Tragic that she died of cancer at 33 and very odd that the military took her body and secretly buried it until eventually handing it over to her family who finally laid her to rest in the cemetary in Recoleta.

It's Julie's last day today, so back at the room there's some frantic packing and we all head off in a taxi to the airport.

We stayed around until Julie went through security - some last minute tears. Of course, the girls only, I'm a bit too tough for all that.

Later that evening, back in town, we find a food court above the big supermarket in Palermo and eat heartily, with change from GBP3.

29th January - and then there were two, again. Today is the day we join our group trip from here in BA, up to Rio de Janeiro. This is our second Exodus trip - hopefully this'll be as good as the last one, through Tibet and China.

After (Chris) doing a bit of laundry, we head off to find the Majestic Hotel (our meet point for the trip). We find out that we're not on the same truck as Sonja (our leader in Asia), though it looks like there's two trucks going up at the same time.

Annoyingly find out that we need to bring our passports, so need to go back and get them. On the way back, stop in Recoleta and treat ourselves to the cinema.

Got our tickets for Babel, after ensuring that it is in English. Of course, the English bits are (in English), however, we forgot about the Japanese, Moroccan and Spanish bits which are subtitled for the locals. Despite this setback, the film mostly made sense, to the extent that we left the cinema mildy depressed. Certainly not a comedy.

Cheered ourselves up with some food at the Galeria Pacifico, before joining our group at the pre-departure meeting. Please be a good group. Please. Please.

Only 8 of 18 show up for the meeting, all seem fine. Meeting not off to a great start when we're given the trip itinerary and it shows that we're in BA for 3 days, when we were expecting to be heading out of town tomorrow - as the trip notes say, if you want to see BA, get in a few days before the trip starts. Others in the group also not happy about the proposed itinerary. Our point is made, though it sets a negative tone for the rest of the meeting - shame, as everyone is still excited.

After the meeting we head off to Cafe Tortoni to book a Tango show for the next night - nice Sarah from our group joins us, and we go via coffee and cake at McDonalds.

Continues on next thread.....

The 20 hour stay in Santiago Airport before flying up to Quito (via Quayaquil) was not too bad, though glad we were able to padlock our stuff to our sleeping bench overnight.

The airport was pretty busy/noisy until about 11pm, then we had the place to ourselves, with only a handful of other cheapskates sleeping over.

Surprisingly comfy - Paul managed to kip until 10am, though Chris had been wandering around since the crack of dawn.

Bit of a drag waiting until our flight mid-afternoon, but no problem and we arrived in Quito, Ecuador at 9ish, where we met Christine´s sister, Julie, who arrived about 30 minutes before us.

Friendly lady at the airport sorted us with a taxi ($6) into town and phoned ahead for our room at L'Auberge Inn ($22 for a triple/private facilities), which is located conveniently between New and Old Towns. Easier than expected, a all had a good nights sleep.

Spent our first day mainly in Old Town, struggling somewhat with our basic Spanish, though getting by okay. Enjoyed a late breakfast at Fruiteria Monserrate, and rescued by a friendly local who spoke English.

After some sightseeing in Old Town (pretty architecture and busy little streets) we walked back through to New Town to try and find the Rio Amazonas Hotel, where we kick off our Galapagos trip.

Not the most exciting evening - emails/blog and M&M´s.

Saturday 6th Jan - Up earlyish to repack for the move to New Town - got ourselves a nice room at the Rio Amazonas. Breakfast at the friendly Kallari, then back to Old Town for more looking around, and some ice cream. Splashed out on engagement rings at the weekend market - got the chap down to $2 for both! Of course, for temporary use until we get home.

Visited the beautiful Church of San Agustin - 17th Century, where the Declaration Of Independence (from the Spanish) was signed, on 10th August 1809.

Then onto the Cathedral situated in the Plaza Grande, where there is the tomb of the Mariscal Sucre (officer of Simon Bolivar, the Venezuelan Liberator).

The friendly, but armed, guards at the Presidential Palace let us in for a peek, then on to the Monastery of San Francisco. Sadly there´s some building works going on, so the ceiling is covered. This is Ecuador´s oldest church, from 1534, and finished 70 years later.

Chris and Julie continued the sniffing around and went to La Compania de Jesus - gold throughout (7 tons used to gild the walls).

The girls enjoyed meringues/pastries/brownies and coffee after all the walking. Must be the altitude, some 2800 metres.

Met our Galapagos group (16 of us) back at the hotel, seem a nice, mixed, bunch, then crashed in front of the 80-plus channels, making the most of learning from the Spanish subtitles.

Galapagos trip - Day 1. Up at 5.30am. That´s 5.30am. A quick brekkie at the hotel, then on our way to the airport at 7.

Chaotic scenes at the airport, but we get away on time, though stopping at Quayaquil on the way to the islands. Arrive in Baltra at 11am, after gaining an hour.

The islands look desolate as we come in to land, and there´s plenty of cacti around. Usually looks greener later in the year.

The trip gets off to a good start - sea-lions and marine Iguanas at the port where we get our dinghys to the cruiser.

The boat is great, our cabin is small but perfectly formed. She´s called ´Pelikano´, one of several vessels operated by our tour company, GAP.

No time to hang round - we soon set off towards Santa Cruz island and reach the island by dinghy. Beautiful golden sand at Bachas Beach, though lots of other tourists around.

From the beach we saw - Sally Lightfoot Crabs, vivid red and blue colours, Marine Iguanas sunning themselves, also some mating turtles out in the surf. Lots of monstrous Pelicans diving around us for their catch of the day. A little inland we see a small group of Flamingoes in a lagoon, with Blue Footed Boobies flying above.

On the beach we saw Green Turtle tracks leading up to their nests - we learn that only 1% of hatchlings survive - too many predators around, whether on land, sea or from the air.

Got into the water for some snorkelling - various fish, quite a size, though not particularly pretty coral.

Back on board by 4.30pm - sat around chatting and munching. 6.30 is the time we look at tomorrows schedule - lots on! Meet the crew and enjoy a creamy cocktail. Great dinner, hopefully a good sign for the coming days.

Some stargazing on the topdeck after dinner, then an early night in our cosy airconditioned cabin.

Day 2 - 7am breakfast, then a beach landing on Sombrero Chino Island. There´s a Galapagos Sealion colony here, with lots of pups around, some only a couple of weeks old. Whilst we keep a distance, it´s amazing to get so close - doesn´t seem to bother the wildlife at all.

Lots of mating signs being given off by the Marine Iguanas, which quite happily live side by side with the sealions. Lots of frantic nodding going on by the ´hot´ males, who also develop a greener shade of colour in mating season.

Also here, more crabs scuttling around, as well as Lava Lizards (of course, these islands a result of volcanic activity thousands of years ago).

A couple of Hawks around, including one with a fresh catch of Iguana.

Snorkelling off the dinghy follows - turtles, puffer fish, white tip reef sharks (at least a couple of metres long, though happy to learn that they´re vegetarians).

Sailed on to Bartolome Island, had lunch onboard, then siesta time till 2pm.

The dinghy took us to the rocky shoreline, spotted several Galapagos Penguins, the 2nd smallest in Penguin circles. Snorkelling, we saw 3 HUGE turtles, stingrays, then 2 penguins and a sealion - fantastic! Sealion came within inches for a sniff around. Not such an encounter with the shy penguins, who dart around swiftly.

Back on board, quick shower before returning to land and seeing the volcanic landscape, and the ´pioneer´plants, such as the cactus. These are the hardy species that first ´settled´on the islands. Nice view at the top of the island, of the surrounding bays.

Onboard, briefing ahead of another yummy dinner. Can´t believe what we´ve seen and experienced today - go to bed on a high, though suffer curious dreams....

Day 3 - Sailing to James Bay (Puerto Egas) in the early morning, cruising at 6.30am. Black beach here - more sealions, happy that were walking amongst them.

Along further we see more Marine Iguanas, with one swimming on the surface. Fingers firmly crossed that we´ll get to see them underwater, chomping on seaweed.

Fur-Sealion colony here - poor critters nearly hunted to extinction for their skins. Also here, migrant shore birds and cheeky mockingbirds, finches, doves and Lava Herons.

Breakfast back on board, and set sail to Rabida Island - HUGE pod of Bottlenose Dolphins cross us along the way. Must have been hundreds out there.

Red beach at Rabida. Snorkelling along the rocks - stone scorpion fish, conch cone with bright pink animal inside, also starfish. Then, we hear shouts of Manta Ray! Unfortunately didn´t get too long in its company, but a first for everyone here - what a sight in the shallow water. Unforgettable, and a rare treat. In 10 years of diving we´ve yet to see a Manta Ray.

After lunch we´re off to Santa Cruz - on the way we´re treated to acrobatic displays by the jumping Mantas, as they try to rid themselves of any parasites hitching a ride. Beady eyes on top deck looking for more dolphins and Mantas.

After dinner, we head onto land for a couple of hours - surprised at the level of occupation around the port - some 16000 live on this island.

Another great day!

Day 4 - Breakfast at 7 am, then onshore for a visit to the Darwin Research Station, where we meet Lonesome George, the only one of his giant tortoise species left from the Island of Pinta. Also lots of other giant tortoises, with different types of shells - Domes, Saddlebacks and Intermediate. Unfortunately we weren't allowed to ride any of them.

Also at the Station are several Land Iguanas, who are coloured a lot more pretty than the Marine ones, with a bright orange skin.

We learn that there were once 250,000 giant tortoises in the archipelago, but this number tumbled once man got involved, using their fat for oil and food. Also animal species introduced to the islands (dogs, cats, goats etc) have had a massive impact on the flora and fauna, and there are now many schemes to return the islands to their former status. Unfortunately that does mean the unwanted animals are hunted down as part of the eradication.

A programme continues at the station to rear tortoises before relocating them back on to the other islands - gender can be determined by the temperature during incubation, ie, 27.5 degs for males, and 29 degs for females.

Before returing to our vessel we had a couple of hours to kill in the port town, which included a reconnaisance mission for chocolate. $8 worth.

Lunch back on board, then our second excurion of the day returns us to land, and the short journey to the Highlands, where we meet some wild tortoises, and some birdlife, including the Vermillion Flycatcher, who is a striking red and black colour. Apparently we were lucky to see him/her today.

Visit the nearby lava tunnel, where a resident Barn Owl is there to meet us, though he's quite content to remain with his back to us.

Onboard we meet up with the 6 new folks who have joined our party for the rest of the trip. Nice bunch, so lots of happy sailors.

Our first overnight sailing tonight, to the island of Floreana. Hope it's nice and calm...

Day 5 - Yeah, overnight conditions not too choppy, most folks sleep through the night - several wearing sea-sickness bracelets.

So, Floreana (or Charles) Island - beach landing at Cormorant Point, which has a brown sadny beach, lots of sealions.

Behind the beach is a flamingo-populated lagoon, at least 60 live here.

Walked to the other side of the island, white beach. Greeted by several large turtles out in the surf, also many small stingrays buried in the sand in the shallows.

Later in the morning, we snorkel around Devil's Crown - conditions on the surface pretty choppy, and several mouthfuls of seawater find their way down the snorkel during the session.

Huge shoals of big fish here, but excited to see 5 White Tip Reef Sharks below us. Also, bright yellow Guinea Fowl Puffer fish.

After lunch, and a short sail up the coast of the island to the next bay, we set foor on Post Office Bay. So called, after a Post 'Barrel' from 1793 where sailors would leave their mail to be collected, and hopefully delivered home.

We all left a postcard addressed to home (no stamps, that's the point) and we'll wait to see if any tourists come through who live near us for a hand delivery. Seems that some folks leave cards to pick up again on their next trip to Galapagos, maybe many years later!

Just inland we visit a deep lava tunnel, and walk the 80 metres in torchlight to the end, where seawater enters.

Snorkelled off the beach - not the best a little cloudy, and minimal life to see - a couple of puffers, and small Moray eels.

After dinner, most of the group congregated on the top deck for star gazing. Very peaceful, other than the airconditioning unit buzzing away at the front of the boat.

Another night crossing, this time over to Espanola (or Hood) Island. The most southerly in the archipelago.

Day 6 - Not a great night, a little rough and tired faces over the breakfast table.

Land at Suarez Point - lots of Galapagos Sealions, a Red Marine Iguana colony, Nazca Booby colony, and Blue Footed Booby colony.

Unexpectedly we also saw 4 Waved Albatross, though sadly having a siesta, rather than flapping around in the sky above.

Cheeky Mockingbirds making a beeline for our water bottles here.

Many gulls, Tropic Birds and a Hawk around us.

A sad sight - a juvenile Nazca Booby had been attacked by an adult Booby (the perpetrator was standing nearby with a bloody beak) and several Mockingbirds were pecking at the large wound at the back of its head. We learn that the adults can only cope with one juvenile, therefore, the unwanted are, in one way or another, killed.

Interestingly, the Boobies incubate their eggs by using their feet, rather than sitting in them.

Lucky to see the mating ritual of the Blue Footed Booby - a whistling noise, combined with some flapping, then a tasteful/comedic dance.

A few lava lizards hanging onto the sides of the high cliffs, also an impressive blowhole below.

Sail on to Gardner Bay, then lunch.

Opportunity here for the scuba divers to get into the deep, so Chris and Julie go off with a couple of other to a nearby dive boat, Emcantada.

The rest of us head off in the dinghy for some snorkelling - again, a little choppy, and not the prettiest of sites, though we are treated to a fairly quick sight of 3 Hammerhead Sharks underneath us. Unfortunately not all the group saw them, though Paul glad he did. Other than a few fish, only other highlight was an Eagle Ray. Not forgetting a jellyfish sting to the neck.

The dive group join us in the water, and we learn of their uneventful trip - no Hammerheads, or anything of particular interest.

Not only that, the dive itself was a (dangerous) shambles - broken equipment, poorly led dive against strong currents, no-one's credentials were checked. To cap it all, our guide Walter (who in every other aspect had been very good), seemed to not really care about the feedback he was given.

Last stop of the day was to the nearby long sandy beach - mucho sealions, a Mockingbird stand-off, and the biggest surf seen on the trip. A nice finish to the day.

After dinner, we're called to the side of the boat to see a sea snake alongside us, thankfully several feet away.

Another overnight sail to Santa Fe Island.

Day 7 - Spied several Golden Rays of the side of the boat, then wet landing after breakfast.

Saw Pallidus Land Iguanas, one eating his way through a prickly pear cactus 'leaf' that had fallen to the ground. Interestingly, the Pallidus Iguanas have lost the ability to climb, therefore having to wait for things to fall down to them.

Our last snorkel session followed, this time straight off the back of the boat and a short swim to the low cliffs, where several sealions played in the water, and around us. One tugged at Chris' fin, another sniffing around the underwater camera.

Sailed on to South Plaza Island (with a pod of huge Bottlenose dolphins riding the bow on the way), where we saw Land and Marine Iguanas live together. Hybrid species are produced when the larger/dominant male Marine Iguanas romance with the female land ones.

Colourful vegetation - red fauna and cacti.

Saw several Bachelor sealions taking it easy. These are the fellas that are hounded off their turf.

Birdlife - more red billed Tropicbirds, monstrous Pelicans, gulls and Frigates.

Sailed on and though Canal Itabaca, where whilst waiting for our water tanks to be refilled, we watched as a few Pelicans swam around a nearby boat, occasionally scooping up some unsuspecting fish.

Reminded ourselves, whilst watching the sun begin to set, that this was our last night. Boo-hoo.

Sailed to North Seymour Island, where we parked up for the night.

Day 8 - an early start on this last morning, and on land by 6.30am. Again, more sealions and Iguanas, though the additional view today - nesting Great and Magnificent Frigate birds. Male frigatebirds are black with a patch of red skin at the throat that is the gular sac. During courtship display, the male forces air into the sac, causing it to inflate over a period of 20 minutes into a startling red balloon.

The mood a little subdued this morning (except Mandy, always smiling) - a good sign that everyone has enjoyed the trip. No-one in a hurry to get back to the pick up point for the dinghy.

Onboard we finish packing, settle the bar bill - then, it starts to pour with rain.

We moor up in the bay where we started a week ago, and get back onland for the bus ride to the airport.

Bit of a drag waiting 3 hours before flying, then the additonal delay flying to Quito via Guayaquil. Also, we lose an hour on our way back.

After freshening up at the hotel, most of us meet for a meal in Quito, at the Magic Bean. A nice finish to the trip, with a nice bunch of folks.

Monday 15th Jan - our last full day in Quito, meet up with Duncan and Rachel for brekky and agree to meet for a taxi to take us to the Panecillo. We could walk it, but we're warned that the walk up is a little dangerous and we could be mugged.

Surprised to see Mandy return to the hotel - was due to fly this morning, though her flight was cancelled....6 months ago. Quite odd as our GAP rep assured us all that our flights had been reconfirmed, and no changes. At least she can join us for the day ahead of her flight this evening.

Nice views from the top, looking over Old Town, with New Town in the distance. The city looks huge from here.

Then, back in the taxi up to Teleferiqo, where we catch a cable car up a further 2500 metres up Volcan Pichincha, to the top of Cruz Loma. Wow, back at 4100 metres, and feeling it as we walk around, slowly. Again, nice views of the city from the top.

In the afternoon, Paul wasted 3 hours waiting for our piccies to be put on DVD, whilst Chris and Julie stepped out for a bit of light shopping.

Tears (or Hayfever perhaps) from Rachel as we say goodbye to her and Duncan - hopefully we'll see them again, in New Zealand....

Dinner that night back at the Magic Bean...yummy, though 3 of us leave feeling uncomfortably full.

16th Jan, our last day in Quite (until we return in a few months) - Chris and Julie meet up with Samantha from our Galapagos trip and pay a visit to Capilla Del Hambre (Chapel of Man) and the gallery of Oswaldo Guayasamin, with his pictures as a tribute to human kind. Not a lot of fun - the art depicting the pains suffered by those under cruel dictators and/or poverty. Covers not only South America, but India and Africa. Odd that we saw pictures of teh artist with Fidel Castro and Chairman Mao. Apparently, he hated Pinoche.

A mural there is dedicated to the people (slaves) who lost their lives in the silver mines in Bolivia. The museum was opened after the artists death in 1999, with some of his work being finished in clay from drawings.

Also, saw the outside and garden of his house - lovely old car stored there, as well as his ashes, which are buried next to a small shrine.

Spent some time in the aftrenoon catching up with the blog, and eating the free cookies in the hotel reception, before heading from the hotel to the airport for our 8.30pm flight to Buenos Aires, via Lima.

Not sure of the name of the international airport in Quito, but it could easily be pronounced 'Shite-hole', and we pay US$38 for the privilege of leaving the place.

A little panic shortly before we're due to board - Julie's name is called out and it appears that teh security guys want to check her bag. Turns out to be here checked-in luggage and we get a little anxious as 20+ minutes passes, and we're called for boarding. In the end, no panic, and they let her through with her Nicotine pills. No internal searches required. This time...

Thanks to the nice lady at check-in, we score exit seats, which we believe are for the first leg to Lima - wrong! After a short wait in Lima we board for the longer journey to BA - Paul beaming as he's in legroom heaven. Of course, disappointed to see a lack of personal TV's. Miserable git.

Buenos Aires continues on next exciting thread.....

28th December, Thursday...

Touched down on the remote Easter Island mid-morning, for the start of our last continental leg in South America.

Thankfully, the local hosteliers meet the arriving passengers, making it just that bit easier to secure accomodation, though we did worry that, being New Year, it may be tricky getting a bed.

No problem, and we briefly haggle the price down to US$290 for 6 nights, with breakfast and our very own bathroom facilities at Martin Y Anita. Martin is a friendly chap and agreed to help with our Spanish during our stay.

Similar to other islands in the South Pacific, it´s pretty small and it´s just a few minutes drive to the main urban area of the island, Hanga Roa. The guesthouse has a nice green garden area and our room is fine. Pleased to meet Michael and Stephanie

After a night of travelling and little sleep, we snooze the afternoon away, then at 5 ish we walk to the ´centre´ for a nibble, finding a small restaurant serving pizza. Where we come from, a pizza is round, rather than triangular, so feel a little diddled out of our 6 other slices. The food is nice all the same and we´re joined by two friendly dogs, who don´t understand English.

Of course, the mystical stone statues/sculptures (Moai) are the big draw on Easter Island, and we find our first group closeby along the coast, a few minutes walk from town at Ahu Tahai. The statues have been restored to their original glory, spread over three Ahu (platforms), after suffering damages from previous times - there´s several headless stone carcases lying around the island.

Unlike Tahiti, we´re blessed with long daylight hours, and enjoy the sun until past 9pm. The surrounding countryside very green, with lots more trees than we expected (they were mainly uprooted over the ages). In turn, there´s still a few birds flying around.

Up late on the second day, meeting Michael and Stephanie at breakfast - bread, cheese, ham, fresh juice, tea, coffee etc, as well a bit of sponge cake.

Not in a great rush today, and pleased to chat with the guys until midafternoon before visiting the small, but interesting, museum - of course, dedicated to the history of the island, in particular the history of the Moai, and theories as to their coming.

We read that 2 civilisations formed here, ´possibly´ from SE Asia and built the large stone altars (Ahu´s) and the sculptures (Moai) to honour their ancestors. They usually face inland, despite being often located on the coast. There´s also some, but less, female sculptures - no particular record as to why.

Also in the museum, various exhibits depicting daily life - carved wooden tablets, tools, household items.

By the way, whilst it doesn´t particularly feel it, we´re pretty remote, 1900 km from Pitcairn Islands and some 3700 km from the mainland.

Walked back along the coast, before a bite to eat, then classroom time and to listen to some Spanish. Decide that swatting up until late at night isn´t good for getting you to sleep.

Day 3, slept in, again, before catching up with real life on the internet. Saddam Hussein has been executed.

The island, whilst small, really needs to be expored on a tour, or with a vehicle, so we sniff around for a good deal on a jeep. Not much luck, though we get booked for New Years day, for US$72 for 24 hours. Again, considering our remote location, this could have been a lot more expensive, like Tahiti.

Later in the afternoon, took a walk for several km´s north up the coastal track, though not a great deal to see - lots of horses and cows. And cowshit and horseshit.

Had hoped to see the cave that had formed a window in the cliff face, but it was elusive today.

In the evening, went for late dinner (can´t remember the name of the place, but it was always busy) and had the best meal in a few days. Michael and Stephanie joined us for a drink.

Day 4, New Years Eve - tried to reconfirm our flight at the LanChile, but it was closed. With the limited flights coming through here, we realised, a bit late, that we should get more organised!

Took a walk south along the coast, further Moai and one of those signs with different places pointed out, such as Sydney 10,000kms. Please excuse the inaccuracy in that example.

Whilst not really a beach nearby, we took the Ipod to the coast and listened to more Spanish. Still struggling with verbs. What the hell is an 'adjective'?

Back at the guesthouse we tuck into some cheap Chilean wine and pseudo-Pringles, enjoyed during a game of Uno.

Met with Michael and Stephanie at 8pm and headed down for dinner, same restaurant as last night.

Limited choice on the menu, but tasty stuff nonetheless, followed by dreamy Tiramisu and Icecream. The night went by quicker than planned, so had to secretly crack open our champagne at the reataurant at midnight. Not the most raucous of occasions, but with lovely company, and pleased to be tucked away in the middle of the Pacific Ocean.

Here´s to 2007 and warm wishes to our families and friends back home.

Shortly after midnight we make our way towards the beach area, armed with more wine and Pringles (sour creme and onion) and chat until past 3...

1st January 2007 - up late, and enjoy breakfast with fellow guests Les and Viv.

Picking up our rental jeep today at 2pm, and happily agree to Les and Viv joining us for the afternoon.

Start off along the South Coast, along a bumpy/potholed road, stopping at Rano Raraku (the Nursery), where the Moai were cut out of the slopes of the extinct volcano. Some 600 Moai (or bits of them) remain here, including the biggest at 21+ metres.

Walked to the top of the crater rim for 360 degree views around the island. Magical, but not like Paul Daniels.

A few minutes away we stop at the Ahu Tongariki - the platform of 15 restored Moai. These were knocked down after a Tsunami back in the 1960's.

Next, along to Anakena beach along with many other Easter Islanders on this holiday-day. Heavy surf, so we keep to the shallows!

Towards the end of the day, we return to the magnificent 15 for sundown and wine, then a final look at the "nursery", under the moonlight.

Day 5 - crikey, up early today to make the most of our few hours with the jeep. Les and Viv join us for a drive to Vinapu where there is an excellent example of an Ahu and its similar carving to that found during the Inca period (according to the very knowledgeable Michael). Also we come across a female sculpture thanks to Michael pointing it out to us.

Next, on to Rano Kau and the 'village', high up on the outer crater edge - gusty up here today. The 'bird-cult' rituals were performed here - whereby the participants swam out to the small islands (Motu´s) to collect bird eggs, and successfully return them ashore.

Heading back to town, as the rain hammers down, we stop at the Lanchile office and get the rest of our flights reconfirmed, also Christine books up for a scuba dive for later in the day.

Back at the guesthouse, we drop off Les and Viv and pickup Michael and Stephanie (by the way, a friendly Austro/German couple) and head out along the north cost track to try and find the elusive cave.

Not quite successful with the cave, though we do locate several other shallow caves.

Several other sites along the way, including Ahu Tepeu, and the seven restored Moai at Ahu Akivi - these are the only examples that look out to sea, rather than inland.

Went to the quarry where the Scoria (Red stone) was sourced for the top-knots - these were the 'hats' that were positioned on top of the Moai.

After using some newly learned Spanish to get the jeep refuelled, we drop it off and head to one of the only fooderies open for a bite. Unfortunately, despite moving our table a dozen times, we fail to find a spot under the tree that isn´t dripping.

After a coffee, we head back to the guesthouse and Christine gathers her bits for the dive, Paul stays in and gets some shut-eye.

Christine´s dive takes her out to Motu (island) Nui and enjoys 50 minutes of pristine coral, though not the most colourful, and 50+ metres of vis. (Visibility!).

Christine now has a new (actually her first) claim to fame - she was diving with a French chap (Orca Dive Shop) who arrived on Easter Island in 1978 with Jacques Cousteau on the boat Calypso. He dived for a number of years with JC - he also holds some record for the highest altitude dive at 5900 metres, in a lagoon in Chile. Whoopee.

The rain hadn't really stopped since early morning, and was chucking it down as we went for, our last, dinner with Michael and Stephanie.

Aaaargh, the Tiramisu place was fully booked, though we got in somewhere nice down the road, though we did return for Tiramisu, though not as nice tonight.

Last day, Day 6 - up early to pack, then Martin drops us off at the airport, a little earlier than we needed (4 hours!) for our early afternoon flight to Santiago, Chile. Quick goodbyes to Michael and Stephanie.

Pleased with our stay on Easter Island, though didn´t get to the bottom of the mystery of the Moai, or where the first inhabitants of Polynesia came from.

Best of luck to Michael and Stephanie on their move to Germany!

Looking forward to using the inflight entertainment on the Lanchile flight - best we used!

Next stop, an overnight stay in Santiago Airport.

Arrived on time at Pape'ete airport, but knowing we had a long night ahead of us. Also, thrown into total confusion that we are now living in the day before, ie we left NZ on 20th Dec, to arrive here in the evening of 19th Dec.

Our stay in this part of the world (for 1 week) will actually be on the neighbouring island of Moorea, a short ferry ride away.

Cheapskates that we are, we choose to sleep at the airport (thanks for the advice www.sleepinginairports.net) and save GBP60, which will come in handy in this expensive place.

Whilst not particularly comfortable, we manage several hours sleep, and wake up to find that we have retained all of our belongings. Thanks, soldiers with guns.

Early next morning, we catch 'Le Truck' into town 15 minutes away and await the 9.30 ferry. First expense, a GBP2 bottle of water, ouch.

The slow ferry takes just under an hour to get us to Moorea and the view as we approach the island is gorgeous - lots of greenery and turqoise water in the bay.

Not much going on in the smallish port - car rental plaes and fruit sellers, a small supermarket up the road. We're reminded of the heat as we look to munch some of our Fruit & Nut Choccy Bar and experience a gooey, but tasty, mess.

I mentioned before that our accomodation plans here were late in coming, though we did finally get booked to stay at the Fare Oa Oa - the Lonely Planet write up is positive and the rate for the week, including breakfast, is CFP39,000 (about GBP230). Considering some of our other options were a similar sum per night, we are happy. We since find out that we are staying with the new owners (of 2 months).

Because we were unsure of the trip across to the island, our host isn't due to pick us up until 1pm, so a bit of hanging around in the meantime.

Martine arrives on time and we're soon on our way after establishing that each party knows just a little of the others language. (This is a French colony after all).

The 'pension' is a 20 minute drive from the port - there is really only one road here, that conveniently circles the coast of the island, about 60 kms around.

After 'checking-in' and meeting Martines daughters, Manon and Morgane, baby Teiki and Scooby the dog, we head straight down to the beach, snorkel gear in hand. Whilst the guest house is close to the waterfront, the beach is a 10 minute walk along the road and is attached to the Sheraton Hotel, though it remains a public beach.

Cheeky monkeys that we are, we also sneak into their pool. Sshhhhhh.

We return in the evening (gets dark around 6pm here), and meet 'papa', Hervé, who puts us to shame with his english language skills. Not that we don't have a good command of english - you know what we mean!

We have a lovely evening talking, and we had also, thankfully, signed up to have our evening meal here too. Thankfully, because it was delicious - probably one of the best meals of the trip so far.

Again, after the uncertainty of where we would stay in Moorea, and how we'd like it, we finish the first day all smiles.

Next day, we start at the beach, but soon worm our way into the pool, and use the hotel sunbeds. The snorkelling is good, especially in such warm, clear, waters. To be honest, we have probably experienced better coral/sealife elsewhere, but it is amazing nonetheless.

Another pleasant evening spent with the family, of course, another superb meal. By the way, it's costing CFP1000 per night (each) for dinner - a snip (at GBP6) considering options elsewhere.

We keep the trend the same the next day - swimming/relaxing/good food/sunburn.

Getting around the island is easy, but could be costly. Forget taxis, and for us hiring a car too expensive. You can hire a scooter at the port for CFP6000.

So, manage to get a good deal on hiring a scooter (CFP4000) and head off, slowly to start with, around the coastal route, deciding to do one complete loop to get an idea of our bearings, as well as re-acquaint ourselves with our transport.

Lots of good spots around the coast, and also a lookout over Cooks Bay and Opunohu Bay. Thankfully the scooter made it up the hill....just.

Stopped en route to watch a colourful wedding take place.

Towards the end of our second loop, we pulled in at the Beachcomber Resort - another fancy hotel that prohibits entry by non-guests - oops. Felt sorry for the poor dolphins looking and acting thoroughly bored in their, relatively, tiny enclosures.

Also at the hotel is a rehabilitation centre for Hawksbill and Green Sea turtles.

And then, the rains came - even though it's warm, it's unwelcome and brings a slighly premature end to our day on the road, though we're grateful to return home safe and sound.

Another fine evening in good company with Hervé, Martine and the girls, and Scooby. Also, 4 other French guests are staying over.

Slow start to Xmas Eve and we both feel a little homesick, missing the usual goings on at home. Of course, not missing the winter climate. Nor the crowded shops.

Todays main plan is to visit the Lagoonarium - essentially a pseudo-natural aquarium under the sea on an outlying island, where marine life gathers in the coralbeds. As well as the fishes, we get to swim amongst rays and black tip sharks. There's also an elusive turtle...

Whilst a 'manufactured' experience, it's a really nice place and we'd be less likely to see the same in the wild.

There's a couple of feeding sessions for the rays, and Chris is very excited to have half a dozen large rays flapping about her feet and legs - really cool!

Again, late afternoon rains come as we take the short canoe ride back to dry land.

Back at 'home' (just trying to make the point that we feel very welcome with all the family) we dig out the cards and play Uno with the girls.

Christine makes enquiries about attending Midnight Mass and we're told that there's one at 8pm. Paul is thankful that the other French guests, three friendly students, also wish to go and he doesn' have to, enjoying cocktails with le patron instead.

After mass, we all sit down to a delicious Xmas dinner and the family open their presents after midnight. The poor girls (aged 7 and 9 can barely keep their eyes open). Very kindly, the family have some chocolates and traditional necklaces for us. We hope that they like the windchime we have for them, though we are embarrased by our 'shopping bag' wrapping paper.

Feeling thoroughly full, of food, wine and champagne, we finally get to bed at 3am, having had a lovely night with the family.

Despite the late night, the morning heat wakes us up early, though the morning is leisurely.

Seems strange that on Xmas Day we are here, by the sea - we wonder what is happening at home....

Not long by the pool before we have a downpour, but it's soon over and we're back in the water.

3 minutes later, and Christine thinking that Paul starts to chuckle and squirm because he has spied a 'topless' over Christine's shoulder, a BIG moment (some would say) rears its delayed head. By some 17 years.

"Christine, will you marry me???", submerged, on one knee, looking out into the lagoon.

Of course she will!, though Paul is disappointed to not see any tears, though grinning laughter can be heard.

Cue a subsequent discussion about what the hell we'll do next.

I hope it has been worth the wait - of course, it was always a 'when', rather than 'if'. It could have happened at any time, though this just feels the right time - a beautiful place and in good company to celebrate with, in the absence of our family and friends. A memory forever.

A special day, rounded off with congratulatory wine and, of course, yet another good meal.

Boxing Day, though there's no such thing out here, we're disappointed not to speak with the mum's, who are down in Canterbury today, relying on email and SMS instead. By the way, a nice touch that we can use the internet here 'gratis' - much appreciated.

With talk about whether we can honeymoon in Vegas (Paul of course), we spend the day courtesy of the Sheraton facilities, though return there after dinner to watch the Polynesian performance - great stuff, and the wine didn't break the bank.

Last day today, 27th Dec, and we read some congratulatory messages from home, and get our little diary up to date. Just enough time to get down to the beach one last time (boo-hoo) before making our way back to the ferry and on to the airport in Tahiti.

Nice to meet with Herve and the girls on the Tahiti side, and glad to share one more goodbye.

Hello to Alisyee too - we miss you all.

Our latter plans for the day would have been pretty mundane, had it not been for Teiva, whom we met at the guesthouse. He very kindly offered to meet us in Tahiti for a bite to eat, and a lift to the airport.

We ate at the ´truck´ area a little way from the port, where a group of mobile food sellers set up each evening. Had a nice chat, and was good to spend some time with a ´local´ and hear things from his persepctive. Enjoyed a final meal, thanks Teiva, before stopping at the Sheraton hotel for a cocktail.

Usual boring wait at the airport, and we were robbed (not literally) of our water and toothpaste(!) as we went through security. I guess if I squirted some of that stuff in someones eye, it would really sting, for a bit.

Easter Island, here we come....

Wellington

Bit of a hassle arriving somewhere new at this time of day - our first potential stopping point has no room for us, so a 30 minute drive out of town is necessary, out to Hutt Park.

I think we've found the best camp site in the world - it has a 'bouncy-castle-thing/jumping pillow' that's about as big as Trafalgar Square...nearly. Thankfully, being late/dark, there's no kids around, so we have it all to ourselves. Paul gets a bit wheezy with all the excitement.

Next morning, up early for the return trip into Wellington - also hoped to get back onto the pillow for a jump around, but too many little people around.

Parked up easy enough and walked through to the centre, via Starbucks.

Enjoyed the Te Papa museum, though it's frustrating that the lighting on a lot of the exhibits is so low that you can't read the descriptions and text. Took a tour of the parliament building, and learnt the meaning of 'daylight robbery' ('Window' Tax), also Clock Tax. Whatever next......ridiculously high fuel tax..... Interesting also to learn that the man on the street can request an audience with Members of Parliament and have their say - apparently they have an absolute freedom of speech..

Took the cable car up to the botanical gardens - not great views, but a pleasant walk back down the hill through the gardens.

Elton John is playing here tomorrow (only NZ date) - considered it, but decided against going.

Happy Birthday Mr Pratchett! 21 again etc etc...

Wanganui and Whanganui River

Next day - no need to spend more time in Wellington, so back on the road out toward the Kapiti Coast, stopping in Wanganui town on the way - nice Thai for lunch. Already we feel that the North Island is a lot more built up than the South!

Booked our Whanganui River Jet boat/Canoe tour here, though the location is a couple of hours away, mostly on a gravel track.

A fair way into the bumpy (though beautiful scenery)drive, the steering pulls to the left and 'yes' we have a flat tyre. Paul always hates driving on these unsealed roads - maybe it was always a case of 'when' rather than 'if'. A pain in the arse either way.

First problem was not finding the manual for the van, nor where the spare is kept. Nor the tools to jack us up. Other than that, we're in good shape, apart from the narrow road that we're stranded on.

Three minutes later, we get ourselves together and get on with the job - an hour later, we're ready to roll, though still quite a way from our destination, and now without a spare....

Thankfully we decided to stay in the back yard of the tour operator, rather than drive this road the next morning and risk missing the trip altogether.

Being in the middle of nowhere, great stars tonight, including our first clear look at the Southern Cross.

No rush next morning - our trip doesn't start until 10.30, so folding chairs out and some time in the early morning sun.

We thought that maybe we were the only ones on the trip, but other cars soon pull up and we have a full house. The river is nice and flat and the jet boat skims across with no trouble. Not quite a thrill ride, but a buzz nonetheless, and our driver (Ken) gives us some info and history of the river along the way. 32 kilometres and several sets of rapids later, we arrive at the landing for the Bridge to Nowhere and take the 40 minute walk through the trees. The Bridge was built in 1936 and was to be the main route through the area, but regular flooding washed most of the surrounding road/track away and $200,000 later it was decided to 'abandon' the area, including kicking out the last 3 farm residents. So, hence a Bridge to Nowhere.

After some tea and biscuits we make our way back to the boat and 22 kms back downstream to pick up our canoe - our transport for the last 10 kms back.

Had hoped that going downstream meant less work for us - wrong! Took us a few minutes to get our paddling routine taking us forward, rather than in circles. Quite hard work on the way back, but enjoyed the cliff sides around us.

Several sets of rapids along the way, that didn't seem to tricky on the way up, but now looking a bit daunting. Thankfully got it right most times, except getting stuck on the penultimate set, and almost got caught out 100 metres from the finish line with a bit of swell. Really enjoyed our trip, and hope to do more kayaking/canoeing along the way.

Now for more fun on the unsealed road, but glad no problems this time. Stopped at a wreckers yard along the way (toward National Park Village) and friendly Ted said he'd sort our broken tyre tomorrow.

Spent the night in the Youth Hostel car park and set the alarm for 6am and a weather check ahead of walking the Tongariro Crossing - the best one-day walk in NZ apparently...

After a night of stars and clear skies, we're disappointed to see clouds surround us and forecast of high winds, basically putting a hold on the walk, which would simply be uncomfortable and unenjoyable with no views from the craters - or being blown into one.

The forecast not looking good until after the weekend, which may be a blessing as it'll be extra busy at the weekend (apparently 900 on the walk last Sunday!)

Drove on to Taupo instead, along the lake, and took in the Huka Falls and Craters of the Moon in the afternoon. The 'Craters' is a park area, within this 'Thermal' region, with many steam holes and bubbling mud pools. Annoyingly it starts raining half way around.

Stayed at the free campsite just before the Huka Falls - initially parking up by the rivers edge, but soon moved back up a little as we watched the river rise up the marking post....

Took breakfast away from the soaking conditions in the campsite and drove up to the town lookout - not the most inspiring view, but still not tired of the novelty that is our freedom in the campervan.

Rotorua

Nothing in particular to keep us in town today, so on the road to Rotorua. This is another thermal hotspot area, and there's a cool walkway through the public park, where we get to see our first bubbling mud, finishing with a paddle in one of the hotwater pools. Perhaps a little too hot as we walk away with chubby red legs.

Took a walk back out to the lakeside and along the edge - getting slightly lost, but not for long. Lake nice and calm this afternoon.

Tried to get to the Zorbing Centre (10 foot high 'balls' that you climb into then roll down a hill), but they closed early. Not a problem as we find ourselves passing the campsite that had eluded us - gorgeous place right by the water.

Returned to the Zorb place next morning, but rather disappointed to see that the ride is literally one minute, and probably not worth the bother for $35 each. Instead, we get our kicks on a Luge ride.

The Luge is similar to the Olympics-thing, but you're on a mini gocart, that is powered by gravity, taking you down the smooth concrete track. Good fun, no injuries and we get 5 goes each, as well as a go in the cable car to the top of the track.

Again, nice weather today, so a quick sit down by the lake, watching the skydivers plummet towards the ground, then off back towards Taupo.

There's a Gliding centre in Taupo that we were unable to find a couple of days ago, but made it this time. Chris has wanted to go up in a glider for some time and we're sure that the $150 ticket would cost 150 pounds back home. A little bit of luck today and Chris gets on the next ride in a few minutes time.

The glider is smaller than I thought and I still can't get my head around why someone would choose to take a powerless flight - powered ones are bad enough!

Nevertheless, after ensuring that all cash/credit cards and PIN numbers were in my possession, Chris gets on board with her geriatric pilot, and the tow plane pulls away, with an octogenarian walking the glider upright until we've built up some steam.

Chris took the acrobatic option, rather than the figure-8, so would soon be doing a loop the loop. The planes take a while to get to 5000 feet before dumping the glider in mid-air. The views of earth from upside down are, apparently, breathtaking, though she did admit later to feeling a little bit sick, though quick to point out 'it was due to excitement'. The views were good (over Huka Falls, Lake Taupo and out to Tongariro National Park), though the clouds had built up and the wind had died down a little, so the trip was slightly shorter, but no less exciting, than planned (25 minutes). Chris would like to say a big thank you to her work colleagues at William Sturges & Co, Ealing for paying for this memorable experience.

By the way, the main reason for returning to Taupo was to revisit the opportunity to walk the Tongariro Crossing - the forecast much better for tomorrow.

Tongariro National Park

Great views of Mt Tongariro, Mt Ruapehu and Mt Ngauruhoe as we make our way crosscountry. Stayed at the DOC campsite and enjoyed the evening in peace and quiet with the stars above us.

Cursed the alarm going off at 6am, but we needed to be at the Park village for 7am to get on the shuttle bus to take us to the Tongariro Crossing. Weather conditions nigh-on perfect (a little windy), so far...

Other than the weather, the other negative to the Crossing walk is, being the most popular one day walk in the country, it attracts quite a crowd. This is confirmed by our own busload, as well as all the other busses we pass on the way.

The walk takes us across to the foot of the volcano and across the saddle. There is an option to climb to the crater rim, but it's a bit of a scramble up and the wind is stronger up here - decide against it! The wind unfortunately failed to die down as hoped, so the higher we climbed (to the crater pools) it became a little dodgy, with walking a fairly narrow point with fairly high drops either side. We both enjoyed the walk, though Paul enjoyed other walks in NZ a lot more (Hooker Valley/Mt Cook probably best for me).

Managed to get the walk complete in just under 6 hours, and pleased to get an hour to sit in the sun before being picked up at 3pm.

Finished the afternoon with a drive to Te Kuiti, which is on the way to Waitomo Caves area. Nice little 'one-street' town, and a great campsite by the river. Though, the man there was a bit grumpy. Should have cooked something healthy tonight, but Fish and Chips ended up in our bellies.

Waitomo

Weather seeming to take a turn for the better and another clear and warm morning for the short drive out to Waitomo. Not sure if we'll get a cave trip here, but Paul definitely going on a Quad bike tour.

Timing pretty spot on, and a trip leaves in 10 minutes time, though I'm warned that the bulk of the party are schoolkids...

No need to be concerned, the trip is good and the crosscountry track gives many opportunities to get near to death and nature. Shouldn't complain about having nice weather, but it would have been fun to drive after lots of rain and get some mud splashing around. One small disappointment was that the '2 hour adventure' was acually 1 hour on the quad, and time either side for transport transfers and getting kitted up. Annoying!

Hamilton

Off in the afternoon to Hamilton (biggest inland town in NZ). Sorry, nothing much to report here - just a stroll around town (quite nice, in the sun) and a mid-afternoon curry. Possible trip to see James Bond tonight, but decide against it and enjoy a warm evening with some chocolate at a nice camp site, just outside of town. Spoke to bruv, at last! - glad all is well in their new home.

Coromandel Region

Quite a drive North to the coast - stopped off at Karangahake Gorge for a walk. Not the best walk as the track follows the road way, where there a bunch of roadworks and cars are backed up. Did the return route through a dark and long (1100metres (that's 1.1kilometres Ed )) tunnel from the mining days over 100 years ago. Had hoped to get sprung by zombies, or at least monster rats.....nothing.

Further up the road we stop at surf-haunt Whangamata. Only 5.30pm and it's a ghost town, though the best fish and chips (Craig's) is open and ready to serve. Enjoyed our meal looking out to sea, and feeling pretty good about it.

Stayed the night at a pretty campsite in Hahei, just behind the sand dunes and got ourselves a spot just by the river that feeds into the calm sea. The beach is empty and gorgeous - the water before us, flat as a pancake and peppered with rocky islands out into the vast bay area. That said, it's a bit chilly so we don't hang around.

Hot Water Beach

Up early-ish to catch low tide and hopefully get a hot bath at Hot Water Beach. So-named because of the underground thermal pools that feed into a small area of the beach - the usual thing to do is hire a spade and dig down till you hit the hot stuff. I guess we weren't up early enough and, despite several attempts to strike hot-gold, the crowd earlier risers manage to find (and hog) the best bits.

We did get some heat-experience - there's a small outlet just where the waves lap up onto the shore and you can feel the boiling (literally) heat bubble through. Chris was here in 1997 and remembers having no trouble digging out a pool. Perhaps the spade-hirers need to consider branching out over the next few years...

There's some tucked away beaches in the area, just a short walk along the coastal track, which is a beautiful sight on this clear and sunny day. First stop is Catherdral Cove - wish it had been quieter/less people. Manage to get some sun, though the water a bit too nippy for us, and most others, today. Saw a rather large Ray flap its way along the calm waters edge. Apparently,could have been an Eagle Ray, though.....maybe not.

Less appealing, there's also Stingray and Gemstone Bays, though both a little smaller and less accessible.

After all that exercise, we grab a bunch of picnic things and sit down on the grassy back behind the beach and watch the kayakers prepare for their adventure - it's looking a bit choppy out there...

More driving in the afternoon, taking us through Whitianga, just making it in time to satisfy the sudden milkshake craving. Hopefully not a pregnancy related craving, though Paul has been a little emotional recently.

Back on the road (Route 25) and through Coromandel Town, though not stopping - especially if they're charging $1.66 for a litre of gas!

Then onto Thames via lovely scenery (blossoming crimson Pohutukawa Trees) and petrol at a more reasonable $1.44.

Drove through Miranda to Opere Point and stayed at the campsite near the beach. Not quite paradise, but nice to walk along the sand with the tide far out in the distance.

Paihia - Bay of Islands

Friday 15th December - a lot of road covered today, on Highway 1 through Auckland and up to Paihia, though stopped at Whangerei and enjoyed a mountain of icecream in the pretty 'basin' area. Nice to see folk enjoying a Christmas lunch - no-one drunk enough yet to launch into a rowdy version of 'Ding-Dong Merrily on High'. Maybe we'll pass the time on the road singing our Xmas faves.....or maybe we'll put Motorhead on just one more time.

Get to Paihia late afternoon and make enquiries about the various boating opportunities. Looks like we've got three options - a sexy catamaran, a not-so sexy cruiser, or a step back into the old days on a Clipper. We'll sleep on it...at the nice Twin Pines campsite, just behind the Haruru Falls. Made friends with more ducks and shared some bread with them.

Alarm beeps at the crack of dawn and the clear skies give us the push to get up and go boating. We take the sexy option and our catamaran (On The Edge) sets sail at 10am. Whilst nice clear skies, the wind not too strong, so the pace, 'leisurely'.

It's a couple of pleasant hours across the bay, though we don't have the legs to make it across as far as 'Hole In The Rock' (you can work out what that might be). Once we're anchored up, lunch is served on board and it's pretty good - nice to have potato salad after sooo long.

Before we give our food time to digest, Paul grabs a kayak and heads off (miraculously in a straight line) across towards the rocks. Slowly but surely, everyone else on board (about 30 of us) gets out onto the water, and heads for shore, where we get an hour to mess around.

The crew have a 'knee-board' and Chris patiently awaits her turn. The girls seem to have the knack and get going first time - all managing to stay on for a lap of the bay. If only I'd video'd Chris's return to shore. You're supposed to let go of the towrope and elegantly glide up the shallows of the beach - however, Chris must have leant a little too forward and was dunked (with some force) face-first into the water, with an impressive slap. Once I had managed to regain control of my bladder, I was relieved to see that she was conscious and moving - in fact, grinning all over.

Back on board for the return trip, we are treated to some speedy sailing with the wind picking up. Not only that - with us slicing through the waves, we are joined by a small pod of Bottlenose Dolpins, surfing around us. A really cool site, watching them race between the outer hulls of the catamaran, coming up for air now and then. Chris was a little upset that one slightly overdid it and 'nutted' a small boy hanging off the back of the boat. Sorry, I'm mistaken, it was a buoy.

Unfortunately, we were struck down with sea-legs on returning to shore, so sought refuge in a nearby bar. Normal feeling was soon returned to these armchair sailors.

Spent a second, comfortable, night at the Twin Pines campsite.

Next day, yet another early start, this time to do some laundry, before the road taking us over towards the West Coast and our route back down towards Auckland. Stopped off for a lookout over Hokianga Harbour, and a short walk to the South Head.

Driving on through the Waipoua Kauri Forest. Enjoyed our last (boo-hoo) onboard lunch in the Spaceship and took a walk into the forest to see the largest Kauri tree in NZ. A big bugger (that's the technical term) - standing some 25 metres, but with a girth of 13.8 metres. Said to be around 2000 years old.

Stopped for coffee and sweeties in Dargaville, before the final leg on the road to Takapuna, which is just a short distance outside of Auckland. Nice, but slighty cramped, campsite.

Auckland

Once checked in, we left the site for a 15 minute drive to Devonport, which sits across the water from Auckland. Had the best (well, Paul thinks so) Fish and Chips, sitting on the wall by the harbour - watched by a cheeky group of seagulls. And a sparrow.

Walked around the bayside town for a bit before, what should have been, a short drive back to the site. 50 minutes later we finally get there, via downtown Auckland and a bunch of crap signs.

More 'boo-hoo' as we bed down in our camper for the last time.

Monday 18th December - the alarm goes off at 6.30am so we can begin our packing and getting the camper ready to return it. Both feeling a little miserable today - we've really enjoyed our time in the Spaceship and are sorry our adventure in it has come to an end. After packing our stuff (a bit of a struggle - have our bags shrunk?) we give the camper a bit of a clean - unfortunately, no $50 notes found tucked down the side.

After a couple of calls home (good to talk to you Ed - good luck with your move!) we start the final leg of our road trip. Thankfully the morning rushhour traffic has gone and we soon find our way (Chris - thanks for navigating us so well through these 7,326 kilometres) to the Spaceship Shop.

Thanks to the guys there for sorting us out with the new tyre we had to buy after the puncture - much appreciated, and rounded off a perfect Spaceship experience.

We'd booked into the Auckland YHA for our last two nights and glad to dump our stuff off, though we did get the self-service 'pay'lockers wrong - assuming that we could re-open our locker during the 12 hour hire. Wrong - so $2 more to re-lock it. Muppets. (Us!).

Got a few chores done in the city today, though didn't get as much done as planned. Glad to get the blog up to date though.

Pleased to finally get to see Casino Royale - yeah, I think Daniel Craig did a good job and agree that it does take the Bond franchise in a new direction. Eva Green is pretty hot too.

More chores and rain the next day, cue haircut for Paul and another trip to the movies, Crank.

Got ourselves some more passport photos ahead of South America, picked up an underwater camera ahead of some favourable underwater conditions in Moorea, and finally found a place to burn some photos to DVD. Made some final phonecalls home, sorry not to get hold of everyone.

Shame the weather didn't improve during our stay in Auckland, places look much better under blue sky.

And, that's about it for NZ - it has been a blast and we hope to return again.

Our top 5 highlights;

Dolphins at Kaikoura, catamaran around Bay of Islands, our Spaceship experience, magnificent Milford Sound (thank you for the good weather!), Chris's glider flight.

This could easily be a top 100, but I prefer to keep it brief for once!

Bit of a drag waiting to check in at Auckland Airport, with 3000 other travellers. Other than that, a painless relocation to Tahiti.....

The Mekong River at Vientiane, Laos

View from the 'Vertical Runway' - Vientiane, Laos

Mekong Sunset, Vientiane, Laos

Picnic, Laos-style

Food sellers on the Mekong 'Ferry'

Spider! - Savannakhet, Laos

A tough day in Don Khon, Laos

Mekong River - Don Khon, Laos

Temples at Angkor Wat, Cambodia

Ta Phrom, Temples at Angkor Wat, Cambodia

The abandoned hotel at Bokor Hill Station, Cambodia

Minefield Museum, Angkor, Cambodia

A rare moment by the pool - Angkor, Cambodia

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Interrogation Room at Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

At the end of the journey from hell...

Te Anau and Milford Sound

No luck getting in to the first camp site we tried here, but that was probably good as it was quite cramped anyway and the one we ended up in gave us a perfect spot overlooking the lake.

Yes, so this is our entry point for Milford Sound (119 kms away) and we get some details from the nearby info shop on the various trips. We take up one of the extended nature cruises (Red Boat Cruises - $65 - recommended) for the next afternoon. We choose the afternoon as the forecast suggests that things'll brighten up...we'll see.

Just a wander around town that evening, quite a busy place, where previous spots have been quite empty of tourists. The town sits perfectly alongside the beautiful lake, shame about the clouds this evening. Again, making the most of the light hanging around until way after 9pm.

Next morning we head off, with no rush, towards Milford Sound, leaving late morning to avoid joining the convoy of coaches and cars all the way there.

Stops on the way include; Cascade Creek/Red Beech Forest Loop Walk. Also, Chasm Creek, where the gushing downstream water has smoothed the rocks over many many years.

Arrived at Milford Sound to pretty skies and the fantastic view of Mitre Peak (1692 metres), mirroring in the shallow waters below. Paul had been waiting to see this scene for real, after years of admiring it from a placemat at the Newton household.

Had some time to kill before our 3.45pm trip, so just looked at the amazing sights around us in the warm sun.

So Milford Sound - the area dubbed as Fjordland, flat waters below high peaks and numerous narrow waterfalls - this time, not due to the rain, but the melting snow above. Apparently, up to 10,000 waterfalls are created after a heavy downpour. Would be nice to see I guess, but happy for the warm and dry conditions today.

Our 2.25 hour cruise gets underway, the boat very nice and with good facilities, though we spend all the time outside, up at the front of the upper deck. Difficult to describe what we can see - it's all sooo amazing. The water is perfectly flat, and we get up close to the vertical walls ahead of us, sometimes taking on the spray of a nearby waterfall. The cruise takes us up the channel towards the Tasman Sea and the engines are cut for a few minutes for us to enjoy the sights in perfect silence. Again, conditions just right and none of the surrounding peaks are topped with any cloud, giving the ultimate view. Apparently the conditions haven't been this good for a few days.

As well as the sights, there's an interesting commentary as we cruise along - these guys seem to really enjoy what they are doing.

Obviously pleased with our timing re. weather conditions, but also the 'town' area (little more than a couple of accomodation places/restaurant/bar) was quieter at this end of the day, with most of the coach tourists headed back to Te Anau, leaving the bar nice and quiet for a couple of pints.

Stayed at one of the DOC campsites tonight (Lake Gunn), parking up by the lake edge. A little chilly, but couldn't ask for better surroundings and got a great view of the starry sky. Watched appalling mountaineering-type film 'Scream of Stone' (Donald Sutherland) - cack.

Took our time getting up the next day, enjoyed the peace and quiet of the lake area.

Planned a bit of a hike from The Divide, a sort drive back towards Milford Sound. The walk is a upward track that leads to Key Summit (919 metres)(the walk is along part of the Routeburn Track) - took about an hour to get to the top for the best 360 degree views so far. There's an interesting nature walk at the top and the info sheet tells us that if we had been here 250 million years ago, we would have been standing under the sea...

A bite to eat in the 'van followed a lively walk and then we took the road back to Te Anau, including a stop at the Mirror Lakes, though the wind a little too strong to keep the surface perfectly flat.

The good weather followed us back to Te Anau, and we also managed to get our top spot at the camp site. After a couple of tasty pies in town, we spent the afternoon enjoying the sun and facing up to the challenge of doing our diary notes....going back several weeks. Painful, but glad to get it done.

It's now Monday 20th November and we take a moment to remember Christine's lovely Dad, Derrick. Can't believe he left us 2 years ago.

More chores this morning and we manage to fill two washing machines with our laundry - there must have been some underwear recycling over the last few days. Glad it's not been too hot over here.

Before leaving town we took the waters edge walk up to the control gates (for the hydro electric station) and back again, but stopping on the way back to see the birds (Kea's, Parakeets, NZ Pidgeon's) at a small wildlife area. Clouds starting to come in...

More pies for lunch, then on the road, Ipod cranked up (Foo Fighters) for the journey to Queenstown.

Queenstown

Yes, another stretch of road taking us through mega-scenery (sorry, I've used 'fantastic' and 'amazing' too frequently), including past Lake Wakatipu, where a small gravel beach catches our eye and we pull up to check it out. The water is perfectly flat and clear and we find ourselves doing our first bit of sunbathing in weeks. Stones lying around us perfect for skimming, Chris not very good at it.

Since Chris was here 9 years ago, Queenstown has changed hugely - simply a lot more built up, lots of fancy apartments to cater for the year round tourist industry.

Checked out the town in the afternoon, and stayed back out (8kms) in Frankton at the lakeside Motor Camp. The Frankton Lake Walk just in front of us and Paul takes off for a run along the path - comes back a bit wheezy. Lovely path, with some lovely houses on the hillside.

Another climb the next day, though we opt out of the 6-8 hour 'demanding' Ben Lomond walk, for the more favourable 3 hours of the Queenstown Hill Walk. More top 360 degree scenery and no more than a handful of little fluffy clouds scattered around the blue sky. As well as sights and sounds, there's a pleasant alpine whiff in the air - could have stayed up here all day, but we make the most of it anyway. We'll be back here someday...

Back at the bottom of the track and we crave peanut butter sandwiches, before walking back around town and sitting by the waters edge. Got chatting to Floridian John who had sailed to NZ across the Pacific out of the Panama Canal - a 9 month trip!

Despite it being quite early, well 5pm, the three of us decided to go along to the Minus 5 Bar - an ice bar, which is more of a tourist attraction that a 'walk-in' bar. Our NZ$25 got us 30 minutes and one Vodka cocktail, though Paul managed to wangle a free second one after his ice glass sprung a leak. It was in fact -7.5 degrees inside, though we're given anoraks, gloves and thermal booties to keep us warm. The bar is quiet small, but an interesting sight with all the ice sculptures.

Feeling the effects of the cocktails we seek Fish and Chips nearby - lovely, especially with the beer.

Fairly early night tonight, but watched Matrix Revolutions in the van first.

Wednesday (22nd Nov), made the most of internet happy hour and caught up with our blog and had a tasty indian for lunch.

Drove out (44 kms) to Glenorchy and took one of the short walks, out to the lagoon. Stopped at the DOC campsite on the way back and decided instead to stay one last night in Frankton, making the most of the creature comforts. Had another run along the lakeside, before heading back into town for another push to get the blog uptodate...nearly there now. Very helpful and friendly guys at The Outpost, which aswell as being an internet cafe (with a cafe), they can book all the tours for the area.

Will be leaving town tomorrow and, shockingly, we've not managed any of the thrill experiences that Queenstown is famous for. Never mind, there'll be similar things to do further up the track...

Have finally sorted ourselves so that we can get some photos uploaded - watch this space!

Last day in Queenstown and we spend the whole morning getting right up to date with this blog - that's 9 hours on the internet in the last 36 hours!, we hope people are reading this

Just after another curry lunch we hit the road towards Haast, via Arrowtown - the scenic route, via the Crown Range Road. Amazing scenery on all sides, and great views of Queenstown to the back. This stretch of road is said to have fences adorned with bra's, but we didn't see any.

On the way, passed Lake Wanaka and Lake Hawea - both huge and surrounding mountain scenery stunning. As we got nearer to Haast Pass, the rain returned so no stops for walks along the way. We did briefly stop at the crashing Fantail Falls, which was just off the road.

Haast and Jacksons Bay

Stayed at the chilly (inside the building/common area) YHA in Haast, though used our plug in heater for only the second time. Cosy, though stuffy through the night.

Met up with our Dutch Spaceship Friends, Peter and Patty. They are Dutch, not their Spaceship.

Torrential rain started early next morning and, at breakfast, we listened in on a conversation that a US family were having about the NZ cycling tour, and that they hadn't yet ridden in rain. Yet! Poor folks - the rain briefly quietened and they set off, 2 minutes later it all started again, full pelt.

We drove the 40-odd kms to Jacksons Bay, hoping to see some Fiordland Crested Penguins, though another day of bad luck. Nice drive through stunning rainforest, and the weather conditions do add an edge to the view. Did the Wharekai Te Kau walk through the rainforest.

Fox Glacier and Franz Josef Glacier

Next drive on to Fox Glacier, and a walk to the Terminal Face, probably getting about 80 metres away. What a sight, a living glacier right in front of us - this thing moves down the valley at about 1 metre a day! Despite the rain, made the most of the view before the short drive up to Franz Josef Glacier.

Arriving into the town quite late in the afternoon, we chose an early dinner and kept our fingers crossed that the small bits of blue sky we could see would become bigs bits of blue for an evening walk.

Well, conditions were fine at the campsite, but as soon as we parked up at the Glacier carpark about 5 kms away, the grey clouds came in, with a little shower.

Because of the rainfall today, the streams flooding out of the mouth of the Glacier were too wide to cross, so the view, albeit stunning, was from afar, probably a kilometre away.

Amazing glacial blue is the overwhelming sight, though the ice is covered in the dust and rock that it grinds away at as it passes down the valley. Low clouds obscure the top of the icepack, but the scene is awesome.

With more rain the next morning we decide against a second visit to FJ Glacier, nor a tour to actually set foot on it. A helicopter tour would have been great, but the visibility too poor for them to run.

The road on from here takes us up the windy west coast through Hoki and Greymouth and then inland and through alpine forest to the thermal spa area of Hanmer Springs. More driving today that sightseeing (other than the on-th-road scenery) - about 400 kms covered.

Hanmer Springs

Skies quite clear as we arrive here late afternoon, and after a quick mooch around the small town, we sit down for a quiet weekend pint. Decide against visiting the Spa attraction today.

Sunday turns to be very relaxing, though initially disappointed as we wake to clouds after a starry night. Arrive at the Spa for opening time at 10am and get our swimmers on for the first time in a while.

A bit chilly walking around the pools (manmade, but containing thermal water from underground) but soon feel great having a hot soak (39 degrees) as it starts to shower. There's several pools scattered around the site - rock pools (36 degrees) and eggy sulphur springs (40 degrees). Probably should have pushed ourselves to use the swimming pool too, but quite happy to relax and go wrinkly.

Kaikoura

After lunch at the nearby bakers (first apple pie for a while), we're back on Route 7 and heading to the east coast and Kaikoura.

Just miss the info centre when we arrive, but get to the Dolphin Encounter Centre and book ourselves for the first boat out tomorrow morning - 5.30am! Sounds like they've had lots of pods around over the last few days, so fingers crossed...

At the other end of the esplanade is a seal colony, though the only wildlife around are winged, including a pair of Oyster Catchers, with their stand-out long red beaks,red eyes and red legs.

With our trip now booked, next thought turns to accomodation for that night. Being skinflint backpackers we cringe at the thought of splashing out for a nights stay, only to leave at 5am, so we pluck up the courage to 'rough it' for the night, finding a quiet spot at the local lookout and getting great views of Kaikoura below.

A little unsure if we were allowed, but no 'no camping' signs around.

No problems in the end, though not too keen on the early start next day, though pleased to see the sky quite clear.

Arriving at the Dolphin Encounter shop, we soon get our gear ready - wetsuits and snorkelling gear - and then off in theus for a 5 minute ride round to South Bay.

After a bit of wind last night (wethar conditions, not Chris), the sea a little choppy as we make our way over to the expected dolphin area. On the way over we were stalked by 3 '747-like' Albatross.

The dolphins were spotted quite quckly and we could see many of them jumping around in a wide area. This location is centered around a deep oceanic trench, which is an ideal spot within the food chain - it's like an underwater food court, with things like SUBway and KFSea. Also you can probably get 'Sponge' Cake there too.

Not ideal snorkelling conditions - the waves are a little high - but once we're in the water the conditions and cold water soon the last things on our minds.

I think I'd underestimated the use of 'WOW' in this part of the blog - I'll have to upgrade its use here to 'MEGAWOW'!

As soon as we're in the water and looking down into the abyss (though visibility not so good at 3-4 metres), the Dusky Dolphins are soon swarming around us - dozens of them, all over the place, circling and eyeballing us. Difficult to describe how amazing it was, also quite difficult to breathe at the time.

The dolphins buzzed around us for the whole time we were in the water, other than a couple of 30 second gaps. Usually took not much more than some underwater singing, or diving down to get them back, checking you out.

Couldn't believe how lucky we were to have so much life around us - this must be the best place in the world to swim with dolphins.

Not sure how long we had in the water, maybe 45 minutes, then back on board to dry off and warm up, still with all manner of acrobatical leaps going on around us.

Knocked back some hot chocolate and ginger nuts as we watched our sea friends ducking and diving around our boat.

Had a little while to enjoy the surroudings before the cruise back to land, a little smoother for the return.

Still early when we get back and try to phone home to gloat a bit - no bugger in!

Nothing else in town for us, so head out (via the supermarket and a re-stock) towards Blenheim and the winery area. Unfortunately arrived too late to get on a wine tour that day, so drove on to Nelson.

Nelson

Quite a big town here, and had a sniff round before driving to the MaiTai Camp, a few kms out of town. Nice camp site, by the river, and we had a walk along the bank, taking us most of the way back into town. Despite limited time in Nelson, we both agree it would be a nice place to live....

Spoke to the folks back home that night - all well there.

Lazy day next day - got some washing done, Starbucks, lounging in the library and watch The Departed (4/5) at the cinema (cheap Tuesday). Had a nice evening on the site, home to some friendly locals.

Spent the next morning in Nelson, before driving away towards Abel Tasman National Park.

Abel Tasman National Park

Along the way we saw a sign for Harwoods Hole - 178 metre deep vertical cave. After a 11 km bumpy road, and a 45 minute walk, we get to the hole, though quite a limited view down into it - depending on how far you were prepared to lean over the egde....with no safety rails!

Decided against doing any of the 2/3/4 day walks (perhaps not quite good enough conditions for these fair-weather travellers!), though certainly up for a hike.

Weather not too kind - chilly, showery, gusty and quite a long drive on a dirt track to our camp for the night (Totaranui), within the National Park. Nice open and quiet space for us, though no facilities (cooking/power), despite it costing the same as most of the other camp sites we've stayed at. Of course, fantastic surroundings!

With sarnies and nachos for dinner, we settle down early and watch a NZ film 'Kombi-Nation', about a group of Kiwis travelling around Europe in a VW camper. Pretty good.

Very breezy, but nice clear skies next morning - we set off from the car park on our walk, which should take about 6 hours. The loop will start along the coastal track and various stops along the way include, Apapai Bay, Mutton Cove, Separation Point and Whariwharangi Bay. The track then heads inland and takes us up Gibbs Hill track, where we start to sweat as we hit the steeper summit.

The views amazing all the way along and agree that a walk over several days would be perfect if it was just a little warmer and you could get into the sea.

Enjoyed a cold can of Coke and nice chocolate when we get back to the camper, some 5 and a bit hours later. With achy legs we drive up the road towards Farewell Spit and have a short walk out onto the beach, though the rain soon starts.

Unsure of where we'll sleep that night, we take an evening stop in Takaka at the Wholemeal Cafe for dinner. Cool place, with a great menu - veggie curry for Chris, and Blue Cod for Paul.

Still unsure where to stay, and with it getting late we stumble across a car park at the start of a trail and there doesn't seem to be any restriction on overnight stays. No trouble that night, though not the best nights sleep for Paul - sandfly bites itching like mad!

Up early next day for the short drive to Marahau (another start point for the coastal track walks), though our plans are just for a short stroll to Appletree Bay, which takes up the best part of the morning. Yummy banana shakes at the cafe.

Managed to swap our DVD's at Old MacDonalds Farm, though limited choice sees us walk away with 'Transformers - The Movie'.

Left the fairly clear skies of Abel Tasman and returned to Nelson to be greeted by dark clouds and lots of rain. Perfect weather to push us into the cinema and an afternoon of Borat! Mad!, then onto the library for some reading up.

Nelson, again

Cheap Falafel and Kebab dinner in town, then back to our favourite campsite for American Psycho on DVD for afters.

Attempted poached eggs the next morning - I think we'll stick with fried or boiled from now on. Today not going too well - we managed to get a bag of clothes into the laundry, to then find no dryer free.

Stopped in town at the Saturday Market and bought some fruit and veg, at half the price of the supermarkets.

In the afternoon, drove out to Cable Bay and enjoyed the view from the comfort of the cab - lazy bu**ers decided against a walk and sped on up to Marlborough Sound, taking the road along the Kenepuru SOund - sadly disappointing as the views are blocked by teh tress, though every so often there's a break and you can see the beautiful bays and caves below. Spent the night at a Department of Conservation campsite in Portage - 'Cow Shed Bay' - got a spot right in front of the water, which was a gorgeous sight the next morning, mostly still on top of the water.

Agreed on a walk this morning, so drove teh short way to Anakiwa and walked the coastal 'Queen Charlotte' track for a couple of hours - more lovely secluded bays and rainforest. Stopped for a while and stretched out in the sun, accompanied by Mr and Mrs Duck.

Picton

PM, drove to Picton, but took another cliff top stop to enjoy the view on the way.

Picton's a fairly small town, considering it's ferry links to the North Island. Got our stay off to a good start here, with a couple of double scoop icecreams. After a quick wander up the high street and back, we grab some grass by the waters edge and sit in the sun, whilst preparations for the Xmas parade go on around us.

We notice quite a crowd gathering up on the promenade, and soon start to hear the parage make its way through town - quite an odd sight on a hot and sunny day - Santa must be sweating buckets in that outfit today.

Choose to stay at the Waikawa Bay Holiday Park and get ourselves a huge patch of grass to occupy. Paul went for a run, whilst Chris sat on the grass and read, though got a dose of hayfever (...and everything! - (private joke)). Took an evening stroll down to the marina and finished the day with some frisbee and a bottle of wine. Happy Birthday to Thomas and Sophia - I remember being 7, it was a good year...

Had hoped to get on a wine tour in Blenheim today (4th Dec, our last day in the South Island), but the driving rain puts us off and Chris has a haircut here instead - small town, not much going on, so back to Picton and hang around for our crossing at 6pm.

No dramas during the 3 hour crossing - the first hour is spent winding our way through the Sounds, then not much else to see before we get into the capital, Wellington, just after 9pm.

Continues in North Island entry...

New territory for Paul, though Chris has been to New Zealand before, back in 1996. Also, now 13 hours ahead of the UK.

Exciting start as we break through the clouds covering the mountains and wide open spaces below.

Our time in New Zealand (to 20th December) will be split between South and North Island - probably 4 weeks in the former, last 2 weeks up North. Hopefully this will help our plans re. hiring a camper, as we hear that the deals are better as we're essentially helping to relocate vehicles back to the more popular starting point of Auckland.

We had considered dipping our toes into a bit more adventure and camping our way around, but with the weather in Oz not being as good as we hoped and reports that NZ is wet and windy, we kept our fingers crossed that a good camper deal would come our way. More on that later...

Christchurch

Nice and quick getting through customs/immigration etc and soon found the cheap route into Christchurch, $7 each on the local bus.

Soon dropped into the centre of town - and just a few minutes walk from the YHA around the corner. Pleased to see a Starbucks in town, though it's clear now where our budget is going wrong.

Drop off our bags and waste no time in getting back out to sniff around the town. Soon realise it's actually quite cold, so back to the room for some extra layers - Paul chuffed that he bought a fleece in Sydney, just incase.

Christchurch easy enough to navigate, and on first view a nice little place. 2 further Starbucks located. Happy to not do too much today, so spend the evening in front of the telly after noshing some cheap fish and chips. Rain falls sufficiently hard enough to knock out the satellite picture. Thank goodness for a July copy of Ralph.

Next day, the mission is to sort out our transport around NZ, and our first stop is the 'Spaceship' shop (www.spaceships.tv), to check out their funky looking MPV/Campervan. They're little people carriers that have been converted to include the basics - full width bed, food storage/little battery powered fridge (big enough for 3 bottles of beer), water can - also, a fancy ceiling mounted DVD player/7inch TFT screen. We had already looked at the more traditional 'bigger' campervans, and whilst perfect for us, they're pretty pricey and heavier on fuel, so a killer cost for a 6 week trip.

Wasn't too long for us to be sold a Spaceship hire, only NZ$54 (just under GBP20) a day, plus managed to wangle a day free. So, that's our accomodation sorted for the next 38 nights. The nice lady was also very helpful and showed us around the vehicle - also, sorted us a 'newer' one. Our Spaceship is called 'STIN' and there's about 200 out there on the roads of NZ.

Chuffed, we thought that sorting our transport was gonna take ages, but sorted by 10.30am. Another day of very little to worry about, except take it easy.

Whilst chilly today, the sun came out for us and we spent some of the afternoon sitting on a sun-trapped bench in the botanical gardens, next to the river. Said hello to the ducks and lots of people going past on punts. Treated ourselves to a Subway and managed to get us a free drink from the Juice Bar when our order was wrong.

Sat in on an interesting talk at the YHA given by a Maori chap.

Noticed tonight that it was still quite light after 9pm - probably dark by 5pm back home in England.

Despite being excited at the prospect of picking up our Spaceship in the morning, we slept very well. Didn't take too long to sort out the final paperwork and we were soon on the road, Paul splitting his attention between driving on NZ roads and tuning in the radio.

Stopped at the edge of town to load up on supplies, then straight out towards Mt Cook, taking a lunch stop in the quiet town of Geraldine. Don't tell anyone, but I sneaked into the camp site to fill up our water tank.

Gorgeous scenery on the way, and not too much traffic. The Spaceship nice and easy to drive, though a bit sluggish on hills - maybe there's a hyperdrive button here somewhere... no, that's the hazards!

Lake Tekapo

We expect many 'WOW' moments here in NZ, and the first comes as we find our way to Lake Tekapo - WOW, never seen water that colour, such a beautiful grey/blue/turquoise, with snow-capped mountains as a backdrop. We chose to stay at a campsite by the lake-side, though lake-front would have been better. With the blue sky completing the amazing view, we had a nice walk along the lake - little noise but the waves lapping up at the edge. Gorgeous yellow flowers of spring along the edge too, and at the top of the lake a small church - perhaps this kind of setting would get me (Paul) interested in one of those wedding things.

Not much in the way of nightlife here, but who needs that when you've got your own in-house DVD player and that Will Smith classic - 'Hitch'. Actually quiet cool snuggled up watching a film, whilst looking through the 'moon-roof' at the stars - only 37 nights like this left to go.

We both slept really well on our first campervan night, and fresh the next morning to move on. Just before heading out of town we made our way up to the Mount John Observatory, moreso just to get the view from the top. Unbelieveable winds nearly blow us back down again, though the views were impressive!

Mount Cook

Now on our way to Mount Cook National Park, but one more lake stop (Lake Pukaki) first, and another magnificent site, though sadly clouds in the distance covering Mt Cook. The clouds worsen as we get closer, then the rain starts and stays with us for the rest of the journey, all the way to the visitor centre. Oh well, we'll wait in the Spaceship and make some sandwiches.

The rain doesn't stop for the rest of the day, though we're armed with information for the local walks and chuck on the waterproofs for the first walk, the Tasman Glacier View Track. First visiting teh Blue Lakes, though they're now green, then onto the Glacier view proper, though the main view is the Glacier Lake, containing lots of icebergs, though you can look up the valley to see the 'blue' of the bottom of the Tasman glacier.

The weather stopped us doing much more that day, so we made our way to our first Department of Conservation camp site - pretty basic, though there was a toilet there. A little cheaper too, just $6 each, and our money goes in a envelope into the 'Iron Ranger'.

Tonight cinema presentation is 'The Basketball Diaries' - pretty good DiCaprio film.

Next moring - WOW - for two reasons. Firstly because Chris thought that history was to repeat itself and a flash flood was going to pass through here like it did in 1913 and washed the Hermitage Hotel away - it did rain all night, a little bit of thunder and lightning too, but the Spaceship stood up to the job. Second, and more importantly, the view next morning as we slid the side door open (whilst still under the duvet) was an amazing view of the snow capped mountains ahead of us. Not sure of the name of the range, but simply breathtaking, but that could also be blamed on the chilly wind coming down the valley.

Took us a little while to get going in the cold, but we took the Hooker Valley walk (3.5 hrs) from our camp site. Interesting walk all the way through, including across swing-bridges, with gushing rapids below. Treated to great (but not completely clear) views of Mt Cook (3755 metres).

Lunch back at the van, and we were joined by a family of ducks and their naughty little chicks.

Back on the road for the same route out of the National Park, though treated to some great views with clearer skies as we drove away. Stopped back at Lake Pukaki, but still a little cloud over Mount Cook, but the wider view was fantastic.

Stopped in the small nearby town of Twizel, used the internet in a launderette - what a great idea! - but pleased to get out on the open road again. WOW - realise that we can connect the Ipod to the car stereo - no more sharing an ear each!

Made a couple of detours on the way - one to try and find a whale fossil (unsuccessful), another to find the Elephant Rocks (sucessful). The rocks are in an inland field of huge boulders (actually these began as sand buried here some 25 million years ago and hardened over time), and is strangely reminiscent of Tellytubby land, though it does have a claim to fame as the place where they filmed The Chronicles of Narnia (2005) - the lion character Aslan had his lair here (I think).

Oamaru

Miserable weather met us at Oamaru and our camping spot had us facing into someones living room. Had a look around town the next morning (in the rain) - not much to see here, though the gardens next to the camp site are nice. Took a short drive to the coastal area of Bushy Beach where the rare Yellow Eyed Penguins have a colony. These little fellas are quite shy, so the DOC have built a hide from where you can view the nesting area - unfortunately all the critters must have been out to sea today. Best time to see them is late afternoon.

Left Oamaru for Dunedin via the coastal road and Moeraki.

Stopped to see some more ancient boulders on the way, this time on the coast. Again, these formed millions of years ago out of limestone crystals.

Dunedin

Arrived in Dunedin (Celtic name for Edinburgh - and we certainly made the Scottish connection with the grumpy weather). Starbucks also here

To get out of the weather we spent a couple of dry hours in the cinema (Flags of Our Fathers - 4/5) then on to the 'Top 10' (nationwide chain) campsite on the other side of town. Got ourselves a lovely little spot with garden table, though doesn't look like we'll get to relax here on the outside very much.

Planning to spend a couple of days here in Dunedin and mooched around town, the (excellent) museum and a trip out to Baldwin Street, the steepest street in the world. Enjoyed watching The Who documentary, 'The Kids Are Alright', though reminded myself that I won't be able to get the new album for another few months. Anyone heard it?

Otago Peninsular

A little bit of admin the next morning (including this blog), though nice to see the sun come out as we start the drive around the waterside drive along the Otago Peninsular. Scenery gorgeous, though the driver careful to keep half an eye on the road. First stop up at Taiaroa Head, home to a small number of Albatross. You know what's next - no sight for us, but had a little more luck down at Sandfly Bay, where we waited in a beach hide for 2 hours, to be shown that one of the little Yellow Eyed Penguins had been hanging around up the hill all the time. Walked back along the beach towards the car, passing several huge Hooker Sealions, to see three Penguins make their way out of the sea - WOW. Was a bit of a scramble to get back up to the car park over the windy sand dunes.

Facts - I mentioned that the Yellow Eyed Penguins are rare, there's only about 3000 breeding penguins left. They can head out 45kms from shore to get their feed, as well as live up to 20kms inland. They're shy too and easily distressed - maybe there should be no 'attraction' to see them here at all...

Balclutha

Drove to our resting destination of Balclutha - most things closed up by the time we arrive, though the chippy open. And they were great.

The campsite was nice and quiet, and we played with Buddha, one of those Boxer-type dogs with wrinkly faces and breathing problems.

Watched a p-poor Bruce Willis film in the cosy lounge area, and enjoyed a hot Ribena.

No hanging around next day, the route taking us to Invercargill, via The Catlins - a place of isolated forests and windswept bays. Stopped off at Nugget Point and viewed out over the rocks by the lighthouse to see more sea lions, and bird life. Just nearby is Roaring Bay, home to more penguins, and we catch the sight of one just heading into the sea - also one other preening itself up on the hillside.

Other stopping points on the way - Tautuku Bay and Lake Wilkie. Felt the need for a power-nap near to Curio Bay before stepping out onto the 180 million year old fossil-forest, left over from the Jurassic period. Petrified tree stumps and fallen log fossils all about us. Oh, and it was raining.

Invercargill

On the scenic route via Haldane and Fortrose (rolling hills one side, crashing surf on the other), finishing the drive for the day at Invercargill. Where there is a Starbucks.

Of the camp site choice, Chris is up for the one where you can help feed the little(orphaned) lambs, just a few kms out of town.

Russell Crowe's 'Master and Commander' showing on the main screen tonight and we've got the best seats in the house.

Soggy morning and Chris watched the lambs being fed.

Off into town - had planned to visit the museum, but waylaid by the internet at the library and we seemed to manage a free session. Glad we have finally sorted our accomodation for Tahiti over Christmas - we had considered changing our flights, cutting it out, as it was looking like an expensive week. However, sorted for a weeks b&b for just over a couple of hundred quid, though we're a couple of kms from the beach. No problem, though reckon we'll find it a little costly whilst we're there - anyway, that's in a few weeks time.

Next port of call will be Te Anau, for Milford Sound, and the drive takes us through a lovely little 'port' area called Cosy Nook. Lovely hills behind, and more crashing waves in front....and not a sole in sight, save for some sheeps. By the way, it's true what is suggested about the numbers of sheeps and lambs here in NZ - they're everywhere, especially as we're a few weeks into lambing season.

Had hoped to spot some whales and/or Hectors dolphins from the lookouts along the way, though nothing this time.

After a 20 minute drive along a gravel track, we arrive at Lake Monowai for a short walk, through the forest to a opening that looks out across the lake with the rocky hills towering behind.

Te Anau and Milford Sound continue on next entry...

Leaving Wollongong for the couple of hours drive up to the Blue Mountains (part of the Great Dividing Range), nothing too spectacular, but pleased to arrive in the town of Katoomba for one nights stay at the YHA.

Again, as with most places, we're pushed for time so waste none and Chris and mum head off to Echo Point to see the 3 Sisters (rock formation) at dusk, Paul curling up with the newspaper at the hostel.

Christine's Birthday today (31st October) - aged XX, looks 23. Any guesses, anyone???

After opening a mass of presents and cards (!), we kick off the day with a walk along the Prince Henry Cliff Walk, to Echo Point, then down the Great Causeway. Stats - 900+ steps originally constructed from 1909, taking until 1932 - stopped in 1915 ;cos of the war effort/lack of funds. Amazing views as we make our way down the steps, looking out to the valley.

Walked along the lower track to Furber Steps and began to climb (1040 steps!) back up to the top. Round of applause for Mrs N for making it back to the top - that new hip working just fine!

A short stop in the town for lunch before getting back on the road to Sydney, stopping in at Wentowrth Falls on the way, just a short drive out of the main Blue Mountains area. The Falls not too big at this time, but the views from the lookouts simply awesome.

Not great timing with our arrival into Sydney coinciding with rushhour, but we manage to find our way to Glebe, and the Wattle Guest House, with relative ease.

The GH is a lovely little place (max 26 folks) conveniently placed for (walking) access to the city, and run by the friendly owners, Veronica and Steve. Whilst probably not the cheapest accomodation around, it was a snippet of home life for us and we were all happy to be here to enjoy the comforts.

That evening, walked into the city, as far as Darling Harbour and celebrated Christine's birthday with a tasty Thai meal, and a couple of bottles of beer. Nice to be back in Sydney!

We spent about a week in Sydney altogether, doing the usual suspects - Harbour Bridge, The Rocks, around the Opera House/Circular Quay, Botanical Gardens, as well as around the city.

Mum only with us for a couple of days before she heads up Port Macquarie way to see some friends, so waved goodbye for another 8 months, though we'll be in New Zealand at time and maybe our paths will cross.

Highlights for us were standing (cheapskates) tickets for Pirates of Penzance at the Opera House. Great show, though would have really liked to have seen an orchestral performance here. PoP is a 'little' cheesy (I think that's the main ingredient for a Gilbert and Sullivan piece) but amusing and well done.

Also, we were very lucky to enjoy a meal at the Guillaume at Bennelong Restaurant at the Opera House, courtesy of my generous friends at Ladbrokes (www.ladbrokes.com). We were a little worried that bookings would need to be made well in advance, but we were thankfully squeezed in - our next worry being the standard of our couture. Again, thankfully, these scumbags managed to sort themselves some smart/casual. Probably a bit more on the casual end.

Having lived on cheap and cheerful pasta-based dishes over the last few months, our tastebuds were about to be given a real treat. The food was simply amazing, and we were expertly guided by our Sommelier (look it up!) for a perfect Reisling.

Just enough space to round off with a dessert, with its own accompanying dessert wine, as chosen by Guillaume Brahimi himself.

Walk-wise, the track from Coogee to Bondi (including the Sculptures by the Sea) was great, though Paul ducked out halfway through and made his way on foot back through Paddington (where he stayed back in 1999), and across town to Glebe.

Disappointingly the weather tailed off over our last few days in Sydney, so our plans to spend some time up in Manly were called off, though we did take a drive up on a rainy Sunday afternoon, and then on to Collaroy in the hope of dropping in on our friends John and Angie who we met a few weeks ago in Cambodia. John was home and hopefully not too troubled that we interrupted his chores, though unfortunately Angie was at work. Guys, your house is amazing!

Our penultimate day in Sydney was 7th November, Melbourne Cup Day. The Aussies (across the country) really go for it as a big day (it's a National Holiday in Melbourne), and we enjoyed our Guinness whilst watching the big race. No winners for us today, just glad that the sun came out for a bit.

Sorry to be moving on, would have enjoyed a bit more time on the East Coast, especially for us to do Fraser Island and the Whitsundays together (we've done them before but not together).

So, all packed up again for the next leg and we make our way to the airport bright and early on 8th November. Dropping the car off a bit of a hassle - thanks Budget for trying to overcharge us, and surprising us with an additional 25% 'tax' when we settled up. Can't wait to use you again!

New Zealand, here we come...

Our route through to the Australian Capital of Canberra takes us to Kosciuszko National Park - Kosciuszko being the tallest mountain in Australia at 2228 metres - via the Alpine Way, through dense forest, stopping at various lookouts on the way.

A little wildlife on the way, including naughty Kangaroos not looking where they were going and Paul having to pull up sharply, as well as another Emu family - this time, 8 kids! Actually, I've since found out that the collective term for a group of Emu's is a 'mob'. Interestingly, the collective term for goldfish is a 'troubling'. Fascinating.

We spent the night in the ghost-town that is Thredbo - a skiing village, though they haven't had snow for months apparently. Hardly anyone around, and nothing open, though we get a nice warm room at the YHA.

Up early the next morning to find a couple of inches of snow lying around us and lots of icicles hanging! Unbelieveable, though thankfully the roads are remarkably clear, but we make an early exit anyway. Shame, seems like the walks around here would be good, especially taking a ski lift to the top.

Via Jindabyne, we make our way on to Canberra itself. Luckily we arrive at the weekend, making parking easier for our stay at the huge Central YHA. We track down a Starbucks and use our BOGOF voucher, but using the saving to buy a cake.

We walk along the main road up to Capital Hill and Parliament House, an impressive building, finished in 1988 at a cost of $1.1bn. Arrived just in time to catch on to the 4pm guided tour. By the way, the building houses one of the original Magna Carta's - one of the better specimen's apparently.

Finished the day walking back via the loop of Lake Burley Griffin in the warm sunshine. Watched Austin Powers in bed that night!

Next morning, walked back up towards the lake, but around up ANZAC Parade to the Australian War Memorial and Museum - brilliant museum, I wish we had more time here. The museum houses 'George' - the 'lucky' Lancaster Bomber and there's an interesting film/re-enactment to watch. MUST SEE!

Leaving (underrated) Canberra on the Hume Hughway again, taking the coastal turnoff through Moss Vale to Wollongong. Nice to sea the see again.

Arriving late afternoon, we check in to our hostel and, soon after, make our way towards the harbour/lighthouse to see some waves crash in, as well as seeing some whopping pelicans.

Watched the Australian Music Awards - Midnight Oil receiving a Lifetime Achievement-type award.

Wandered around town and along the waterfront the next morning, before heading up to Bulli Scenic Lookout, giving views over the Illawarra Escarpment. Saw, but again didn't hear, another Kookaburra.

Another walk nearby, from Foothills Road through gorgeous (Cabbage Tree) palms and Eucalyptus trees.

Blue Mountains and Sydney to follow...