Backpacking

Friday 18th May continued..

Puno, Peru

The journey from Copacabana through the border (easy and quick) and to Puno was pleasant enough, though we arrive to clouds and a little bit of cold.

Pleased to see an (Globalnet, or something like it) ATM at the bus terminal, though, beware, it'll charge you for the privilege of using it, 4 Soles. Annoying when it doesn't tell you it's going to charge you, and you only take out 20 Soles.

A few minutes away in a taxi we arrive at the conveniently-close-to-the-centre Los Pinos Inn, which seems basic but fine. No cable TV unfortunately, and intermittent warm/hot water - still, clean and cheap enough.

Had a walk around town, quite a busy little place and a few tourists here and there. Looked around the 2 main plazas, and along the pedestrian street, where there's an element of hassle from the restaurants wanting you to eat at their place, and the ever-present shoeshine boys.

Took out a little more money from another bank and got charged again, GRRRRRR, without warning. Finally used a BCP machine and, no charge. Phew, BCP from now on. (Scotiabank are also okay, no charges at source).

Had a nice meal just off the pedestrian street, went for the set menu and scored a bargain 3 course for less than 2 quid. Still, does look as though it'll be costing us a bit more than what we were paying for things in Bolivia.

Main reason for coming to Puno is to get out onto the Lake Islands, so we'll be geting a boat first thing tomorrow. Also found an agency to sell us the Inca Bus ticket, which is a tourist bus that will take us from here to Cusco on Monday, stopping at a few (Inca) sites along the way - quite pricey at USD25, when a 'normal' bus would probably cost 25 Soles, or less....

Found a coffee shop in one of the backstreets and enjoyed some CAKE, we love the CAKE.

Slept 'okay' on the firm beds, ahead of the earliest start in a while - breakfast at 6.30.

Saturday 19th May

It's Paul's birthday tomorrow, and he's getting excited about what surprises he might have in store. Considering the lengths he went to to celebrate Christine's back in October (one birthday card, with sincere words of love included (self-penned), together with 5 Australian Dollars ('go on, treat yourself...') and a petrol
voucher (save $0.05 per litre - she didn't even use it!)) - he has a LOT to be excited about.

Anyway, back to today - it seems to early to get up, but we manage it and, despite it being cold in the breakfast room, it's a nice spread, and we enjoy the scrambled eggs.

The effcient staff sort out a taxi for us and we're ready to go down to the port to negotiate our way on to a boat out to the islands.

There's a bunch of folks trying to get you on their boat, but we stick with one guy and all seems okay. 35 Soles for a return trip out to Taquile Island, via the FloatingIslands (Islas Flotantes), and we get a guide thrown in. It's usually a day trip, giving you a couple of hours (with all the other tourists who arrive at the same time) on Taquile Island, but we'll be staying over, and can catch the same boat back tomorrow - no extra cost.

So, first stop for this sllooooow boat are the Floating Islands/Reed Islands, the home of the Uros people. Built using Totota Reeds, that grow in the shallows of Lake Titicaca.

The islands came about as a result of the Uros people wanting to isolate themselves from the aggressive Collas and the Incas. Strange feeling to step onto the island - a little bouncy - and we're greeted by some locals, though you can already feel the absolutely tourist nature of the visit, though we are sure that the other islands would be occupied in the same way as this 'show home'.

We notice that none of the women are going hungry, but wonder how they get to such a size - perhaps it's Pringles.

Had a talk about daily life from our well-informed guide, and then some free time to walk around the small reed island, and totake up the opportunity to buy some souvenirs.

The islands are generally fixed into a permanent position, though can be untethered and 'sailed' elsewhere - not sure how they are conbtrolled, some of them are really quite big!

We're offered alternative transport to the next reed island (we're seeing 2 today) - on a large canoe made from reeds. We're also treated to a handful of songs from a young girl who comes along for the ride. It's now clear why they wear the bowler hats - very good for collecting tips. Again, quite a touristy experience, though have to admit that it's quite a unique opportunity.

The other island is more of the same thing, though there's a small trout hatchery on this one, as well as a museum, which houses some day to objects, and a stuffed fox-thing.

After just 15 minutes here, we're back on board to 'proper' boat for the journey to Taquile Island. Whilst the views of the lake of very nice, the journey drags a little - another 3 hours or more. Chris takes in the views from the top deck, but Paul happy to stay in doors and to snooze.

Pleased to finally get to Taquile and moor up. Even more pleased to take up the opportunity to buy a Snickers when we docked, before the 40 minute walk up and across the island to the main square.

Taquile has been inhabited for thousands of years - Pukara once inhabited 2500BC - and is located 35 kms east of Puno, about 7 sq kms in size, with about 2000 inhabitants (400 families).

We walked to the main square - similar scenery to Islas del Sol - and very cool to see everyone is traditional dress and with knitting needles in hand, even the men. Taquile is known for its textiles.

The men are wearing the traditional woolen hats (like floppy nightcaps) - if they are married, the hats are all red, and a mixture of red and white if they are 'available'. A hard black hat is a symbol of authority. The men wear a white sheepwool shirt, with a large safety pin under the chin, a black and white waistcoat, a thick waistband (usually with a multicoloured coca bag attached), black trousers and sandals.

The women (all ages) wear multilayered skirts but more noticeable is their black shawl that protects them from the sun.

For once, the men seemed more interesting to look at than the women, especially the men of authority, who gathered near the church, obviously to discuss important island matters(!).

We stayed in the square for a while, and then walked to the other side of the island for a surprisingly good lunch.

As we are staying over, we ae introduced to a man and wife whose house we'll be staying at. It's pretty basic, and no washing facilities - the outside toilet isn't the prettiest site we have seen this trip.

Once we had dumped off our bage, we headed back to the main square, but this time no other tourists around, so very peaceful and nice to see the locals going about their business. Some children, including girls selling wristbands, sat with us and we managed to communicate in a very basic way, including by way of fart noise.

The group around us grew over the afternoon and they asked us to take pictures of them, pulling various faces.

After, we walked up to the Moon Temple, a simple collection of stones, and then further across the island to a great lookout point over the lake. Very calming to sit and watch.

Dinner at our accomodation was again surprisingly good, though very basic, and our first candlelit dinner in a while. One of the other guys on the trip, Matt from Milton Keynes, stayed over to and we had dinner together.

Not much in the way of nightlife on the island, so in bed quite early.

Really glad we stayed on the island, with the place pretty much to ourselves.

Sunday 20th May

Whoopee, Paul's birthday, and he looks good for 30something.

Didn't sleep too well last night, not the most comfortable bed, squeaking at the slightest movement. Breakfast was a treat though, with the first pancakes we've had in a while.

Spent the morning around the square, saw the place change from tranquility to chaos when all the morning tourists arrived. Thought we had found ourselves a quiet spot until a group decided to sit right around us, when the was plenty of space elsewhere. Slowly losing patience with other tourists...

Paul was happy to enjoy the sun in the square, and Chris took herself off to the highest point on the island and enjoyed the views and peace and quiet.

Wanted to make sure we got on the 12pm boat heading back, so got to the port a little early. Pleased that we arrived on the island at the other end, where there's a gradual slope to the main square - on this side there's 500 big steps to climb.

For some reason we left later than scheduled, but pleased to be on the boat and heading back to Puno. This time we both sat on top of the boat - they don't usually let you do this as a couple of tourists recently fell off.

A couple of hours in to the journey and the engine cuts out, and there seems to be a problem getting it going again, though after 15 minuted we're cruising (slowly) again, and heading back toward sthe reed island area.

Spot of luck on the way back and there's a minibus waiting to drop us off at the hotel, though we're the last to be dropped off.

Bit of panic when we're back at the hotel and there's no reservation for us, though thankfully we're sorted and have a bed for the night.

Before dinner we fancy some cake so return to the nice cafe, before a spot of internet.

For dinner we went to a great chinese restaurant - good portions and the first sweet and sour sauce in months.

Glad that we stayed over on Taquile Island - Paul not that interested initially, but a very warming experience.

A quiet birthday, but different, and totally memorable.

Early night, shattered, and another early start tomorrow for the trip to Cuzco.

continues on next thread...

Tuesday 15th May

Copacabana, Bolivia

We were due to be picked up at 8am, though this turns out to be someone coming to our hotel and us walking halfway back across town to where the bus is. In the usual way, not a big deal, but Paul is struggling with his arm and the altitude sucks the rest of what energy he has left.

Anyway, we get to the bus and head out of town just a few minutes late, and pick up the last few passengers from their hotels.

The bus takes the same route out as the other day when Chris went to Tiwanaku (through El Alto), but we feel there's something not quite right with one of the wheels.

There's no grinding or sparks, but we keep stopping and the driver takes a quizzical look.

We're soon heading across the plateau and there's great views of the distant snowcapped mountains - it's lovely to see Lake Titicaca for the first time, though we don't quite yet get to see how huge it actually is.

Probably just over half way through the journey and we need to disembark to get on a small passenger boat to take us across a narrow stretch of water. The bus goes on a flat ferry, and it doesn't look too safe, but at least the water is calm today.

Fact fans - Lake Titicaca is something of a whopper - over 230kms long, 97kms wide. At 3820 metres above sea level, it's one of the highest navigable lakes in the world. Also, it's a remnant of the ancient inland sea, known asLago Ballivian, which covered much of the altiplano before the water level fell due to faults in the ground.

On the other side and we need to show our passports. Must have been something not quite right with a Swiss guys paperwork and he doesn't get back on the bus. We double check how long we've been in the country and, phew, have some days to spare though the stamp in Paul's passport initially suggests that I've been here for 2 months, but lucky it's just a small smudge on the date stamp.

Arriving in Copacabana, we are dropped by the main square and it looks like a small place to navigate to find our accomodation - we're hoping to stay at the recommended (nice views over the lake etc).

Despite the small size of the place, we still manage to get a little lost (even with a map) - also lost is Paul's sense of humour.

Anyway, not long before we decifer the map in the Lonely Planet 'guide' and we're at La Cupula, and safely in our lovely room.

After settling in, we set of for a wander around the town and it's nice to see little traffic, and therefore no lung fulls of grubby emissions.

Had a cheap set meal in town (always much cheaper than ordering the individual items) - enjoyed the food though you can keep the reggae.

Quite a few 'hippy-travellers' selling their crap in the main street - they should find time to have a wash every so often.

Altitude hits us again (we're at 3800 metres) as we walk back (slowly) towards the hostel, but our minds are taken off this when we find some little piggies in a small yard near our place. Ahh, very cute, and not as dirty or smelly as the hippies we saw earlier.

Paul had a snooze, while Chris chatted with some folks in the TV room. Enjoying ourselves at La Cupala - always nice to feel relaxed in a place.

ZZZZzzzzz.

Wednesday 16th May

Breakfast not included at the hostel, so no rush to get up this morning - walked into town and had a bargain noshup.

One thing on the agenda today is to, possibly, take out Paul's stitches. We might do it ourselves, Susan said it would be easy.....

Back in the room we rummage through the medical kit for a few bits and pieces, including some things that Dan and Michelle kindly gave us back in China.

Off comes the bandage, so far so good, and then the gauze is slowlypeeled back, taking a few arm hairs with it.

Hmm, not a bad wound if I do say so myself - all looks good, little blood and no yellow stuff oozing out.

The stitches look neat, though we're not sure where to start in taking them out, so we bandage it back up again, and think about checking out the local hospital instead. Of course, we're in a small place, so not sure what to expect there...

The hospital is just a few minutes walk out of town and when we arrive we're able to convey what has happened and what we're looking for today.

As in La Paz, we're seen straightaway and the Doctor sees no problems with the cut and the stitches can come out.

30 seconds later, they're all out, and there's no tears from the brave soldier!

Relieved, we pay a little bit for the treatment and leave a little as a contribution for the small hospital. The nurse seemed really pleased, so we're not sure if she thought the tip was for her...

Back in town and we sit in the sun in the square, and Chris goes off into the cathedral for a look around. Apparently the cathedral is of a Moorish style, built between 1605 and 1820. The outside is very impressive, though the inside very plain.

Around the side and into the Capilla de Velas (Candle Chapel) - very surprised by the chapel, it's a narrow dark arched sepulchre with trough like things on which candles are placed and the wax cakes the wall and floor.

At the end is the 'famous' wooden statue of La Virgen de Copacaban - surprised by the darkness and plainness. Thick dark stones in contrast to the brilliant white of the cathedral walls.

Noticed the stalls outside selling miniature cars - a local tradition is the blessing of the 'toy' cars in the hope that the real thing will be obtained in the coming year. Also saw 2 cars by the cathedral gates, one of which was decorated with the Virgin Mary - automobiles are blessed daily!

Took a break back at La Cupula, Chris caught up with the diary, Paul picked at his scabby elbow.

For sunset we walked up Cerro Calvaio, was a bit of an effort up the huge stone steps but nice views from the top despite the skyful of clouds. Great wide views out over Lake Titicace - would be a beautiful spot to hang out beneath clear blue skies. Also got a first sighting of Isla del Sol from up here.

Walked back via the town and had a bite to eat - Chris got her ticket for a trip to Isla del Sol. Paul not going.

Thursday 17th May

Up early for Chris's trip out on the Lake - down at the harbour by 8.15.

Chris met with a couple of English folks, Jess and Steve, and ended up spending the day with them on the Isla del Sol.

Isla del Sol is apparently the legendary birthplace of Manco Copac (Son of the Sun God, Inti) and his sister-wife (umm, I'm typing up Christine's notes, and not sure what a sister-wife is - maybe people from the Norfolk area know more about that sort of thing) Mama Huqca.

The boat ride across the lake is incredibly slow and they arrived, finally, at 10.45, reaching the village of Cha'llapampa.

Very pleasantly surprised to come across a fiesta (party) in the main square, outside the small church. The women were either dressed in pink or blue and the men wore different costumes - some with black masks that had pipes sticking out.

First the congregation came out of the church and it seemed as if eash corner of the square was blessed.

A statue (possibly a saint) was carried and at each corner a prayer was said. Afterwards the band played and fireworks set off, though more for noise than any kind of pretty display.

It was hilarious watching little kids hold a pole on which a catherine-wheel contraption was attached - once the fireworks were lit the children would cower underneath and cover their ears.

Chris and Jess happened to notice that one of the fireworks was facing outward rather than upward, so they hid behind some sweet old ladies, and a fellow traveller who obviously hadn't noticed the accident waiting to happen. It says 'very funny' at the end of the sentence Chris has written. That's not very nice, is it - poor little old ladies, on fire.

They watched the dancing for 30 mins or so - great costumes, but the repetitive dance tune soon got to them.

The fiesta really made the day, and they had to drag themselves away as the walk across the island would take about 3 hours and they didn't want to miss the boat home. First, they popped into the small museum in which there are artefacts from underwater excavations in Lake Titicaca at the north of the island. Fascinating that buildings and artefacts and being found in the Lake - why/who???

We quickly visited the Inca ruins (Chincana), which is the site of the sacred rock where the Inca creation legend began. We then took the central trail all the way to Yumani village in the north.

The Island is very dry, Mediterranean-like - good views of Lake Titicaca.

With best feet forward we were making good time and stopped for a drink in Yumani, before getting the slow boat back to Copacabana.

A little embarrassment on the way back - Chris needing to do a peepee. To cut a long story short, the bucket used to scoop water out of the boat found a second function, and together with a large blanket, a makeshift loo was put together. Shameful, but very necessary.

The remaining 2 hours of the trip were a lot more comfortable.

Back at La Cupula, Chris finds Paul still in bed and he's pleased to meet Steve and Jess - shame, they're heading south and the opposite direction to us.

Had dinner at the hostel, quite expensive, but good stuff.

Paul pleased for the rest today, and the arm is feeling okay. Can't bend it much though, but that's probably a bit of fear too.

Found out today that work have agreed an extension to our leave - back in the office on 20th August. Yessssss.

Friday 18th May

Travelling day today, though not til lunchtime.

Did some emails in town in the morning - Chris also looking to extend leave until the same as Paul. Hopefully will be okay, though sounds like they'd have her back weeks sooner.

Also spent some time looking into getting married in Ecuador towards the end of the trip - would be a great way to finish up the trip, though sounds like there's a few hurdles in the way (paperwork wise). We'll see what happens.......

In the warm late morning afternoon sun (and not much chilly wind today) we had a nice walk around the length of the bay in Copacabana, had a nice chat.

Picked up some snacks on the way back and sat on the deckchairs at the hostel, looking out over the bay. Would be a lovely place to relax on a nice warm day - there's hammocks here too, though we didn't get to use them.

So, after some Pringles (Cheese) and Snickers we get our bus at 12.30, which will be taking us to the second stop on Lake Titicace, Puno, though we'll have crossed the border into Peru.

Enjoyed our time in Copacabana very much, though a shame that Paul wasn't up to doing too much as his arm heals up. In fact, shame that we didn't get here sooner and out of La Paz sooner - would have been a good place to catch up with ourselves. Not a huge amount going on here, though perhaps that would be the whole point.

Bye bye Bolivia, we've had a great time and are sorry to go. Perhaps the country highlight of South America so far...... (and it's cheap, and the food has been excellent, especially veggie choice)

continues on next thread...

Sunday 6th May

La, Paz, Bolivia

Again, grateful not to have been kicked off the bus last night, and the 12 hours or so bus ride hasn't been too bad. Glad we went 'semi-cama', though the space for Paul was a little tight with the person in front doing the full-recline.

Also, glad to be here safely, we're a little less sure about the roads in Bolivia.

Quite an amazing sight to se La Paz at first light, the bus making it's way down into the huge 'bowl' in which La Paz is cradled. Overwhelmingly, the orange brick colour of the houses/shacks/business premises lights up brightly from the sun, all of the buildings sticking to the sides of the bowl.

We're dropped at the main bus terminal in the capital and, first things first, need to use the facilities, before grabbing a taxi to the nearby street where there's a clutch of accommodation. We haven't booked ahead, but have some ideas.

The taxi from the bus terminal seems a little pricey, 15 Bolivianos, and whilst we haven't been here before, we sure that we've got less than 5 minutes travelling to do. In Potosi and Sucre, similar trips were costing half, or less.

The first budget hotel we try seems a little overpriced (US$30 a night), although it looks 'alright'. We wander down the road a little further, and soon come across Hotel Condeza (just by the crossroads of Calle Illampu and Calle Linares).

Whilst a little more expensive than we're prepared to pay (us$25), it seems nice, the room is fine, and as usual, we're quite happy to have our own bathroom/toilet. We were wary of staying at a hostel where there was not hot water etc (as a lot of the guides seem to suggest), so glad to pay a little extra for the comfort. Also breakfast included, and cable TV.

We crash out in the room for a couple of hours, enjoy the (6th floor) view of an area of the city, before heading out for a gander.

Seems to be a bunch of local weekenders out and about today, and the narrow pavements are busy (but safe), though these equally narrow streets are full of taxis, minibuses and bigger buses. Between them they're spewing out huge clouds of black stuff, and at this altitude (about 3900metres), the breathing can sometimes be quite heavy, so not very pleasant gulping down all those emissions.

As well as a simple look around, we're also trying to get some info for excursions in/around town, including the mountain bike ride down the 'death road' - strangely the 'biggest' operator "Gravity Assisted' seems to be closed today - also, we think they only go twice a week, that's what their website says...

Anyway, we get some other information, including details of a trip to Tiwanaku, from Diana Tours, and also check out the Death Road trip with Downhill Madness, also recommended to us.

To cut a long story short, Chris will take the trip to Tiwanaku tomorrow, and we'll both do the bike ride on Tuesday, with Downhill Madness (US$65, seemingly everything included, inc. tshirt and photo cd).

Other than sniffing around, and eating a little bit here and there, we don't do much for the rest of the day - quite a lot (the tourist things) is closed on Sunday. We grab a final bite to eat at Cafe Banais on Calle Sagarnaga - very nice too.

After the overnight bus ride, we're happy to kick back early and watch some telly, in our nice comfortable room.

Night-night.

Monday 7th May

Chris's trip leaves fairly early this morning, so we're both up at 7 to catch breakfast. After seeing the promotional leaflet for the hotel, we did think that breakfast was buffet-style, but is ultimately quite basic, but fine anyway.

Paul goes back to bed and watches Back to the Future, Chris's bus arrives just after 8, and hopefully will return by 3ish.

Paul quite happy to do very little today - catch up on some blog (truthfully quite glad that there's only a couple of months to go!) and take it easy.

Chris's trip on the other hand....

We meet up back at the room on time, and hang out until we get hungry. We think there's an Indian/Thai restaurant a little out of this tourist area of town, so head-off on foot in search, until we realise that we're not quite sure where we're going, and the road that we think the restaurant is on goes off the edge of the little map we have. Unsure of what ghetto we might be walking into, we about turn, grumpy with each other - we really fancy a curry!

Oh well, back to Banais - again, this is something we seem to do (go back to the same old place), but when you find somewhere that does good food, that doesn't give you the opportunity to try it again on the way back out (either end!), it's easy to take the 'safe' route.

No culture tonight (we are naughty), and end up with TV to send us off to sleep.

Big adventure tomorrow, on two wheels, out on the most dangerous road in the world...

Tuesday 8th May

Damn clouds - had hoped for perfectly clear skies for our trip today - maybe it'll clear..

After a rushed breakfast, we head round the corner to Downhill Madness and meet our group - there's about 12 of us, and we get kitted out in the basement. All the gear is included - gloves, pants, jacket, full face helmet and fancy gloves. Our guide 'Hector' seems fine and we're glad for his good English.

Our trip starts with a minibus ride out of town and up to 4600 metres (we'll be coasting down to 1300-odd metres), about an hour away. Once both minibuses arrive, the bikes are taken off the roof and set up for the riders - some of us have full suspension bikes, some just at the front. Either way, the bikes are in good shape, and are all individually set up for the group.

After a safety briefing, we get underway, with the first half (of 60+kms) being on 99% smooth tarmac, and downhill all the way.

It's great to be cruising along, picking up quite a pace, and trying desperately to be aerodynamic. The scenery is cool, though the clouds are in quite close, so blocking off the distant views. Of course, this is perhaps a blessing, cos the drops at the side of the road seem bottomless, se we'll keep an eye on the upcoming tarmac just now.

Safety seems to be the word, and we do make a stop for everyone to catch up every 10/15 minutes, including a mandatory at the police barrier.

We soon get to the point where we have a few kilometres of uphill, which starts off okay, but, at altitude, it's still a killer. Most of us need to push ourselves up the final 500 metres, but all make it in good time.

Annoyingly, the cloud has thickened and the drizzle has joined it - we're all soaked through, to the boots, and sunglasses are difficult to see through, but that's better than gritty water landing on your retina!

So, we soon arrive near the half way point, and this is where the proper dangerous part of the road begins. No tarmac, the track only 1 car wide, quite easy to pick up some speed on this downhill bit, no barriers at the side of the road, loose wet gravel amongst bigger rocks set into the ground etc etc.

After a few minutes on this surface, everyone taking it quite easy, we pull up for a spot of lunch, though we don't hang around standing in the drizzle - I guess some of us are quite excited to be getting back on the track!

We are warned to take it easy through the next few tight bends, and all is going well, until....

Paul is on a fairly long straight bit, pickin up some speed (though feeling safe with it), when.....POP, the front tyre blows.

It probably would have been quite easy to control the bike with a deflated tyre (maybe not) but the twist came when the inner tube came out from the tyre and began to wrap itself around the hub - it was really like one of those slow motion moments, when you can see clearly what is happening, and know what is about to come...

Next thing - the front wheel locks

Next thing - I'm in the air, drifting away from the handlebars, towards the sky

Next thing, thud, and on the ground, a little dazed.

Whilst dazed, I straightaway feel that there's nothing serious amiss - nothing broken or dangling off. Most of my body feels a little numb, my knee is bashed, hip grazed. I sit on the ground for a bit, also grateful for not going over the edge, like many other bikers have over the months - and also thinking about the other 817 outcomes from this tumble, it really could have been worse.

The ground is wet after this drizzle so don't sit around for long, and get on my feet, feeling a little odd. By this time a few of the other riders have gathered around to help out, and someone notices a rip in my fleece, just above the left elbow, at the back. Bugger, my favourite fleece!

I decide to take it off to see if it's ripped anywhere else, and then another person notices my arm, and whilst I can't see it myself, I can see him wince and turn away.

Seems I have a mouth-like gash, beaming out at everyone, though there's not much of the red stuff, though it's deep enough to be flashing some bone, or cartlidge - we're not sure.

The first aid kit is soon out and I'm being patched up, after a squirt of alcohol to try and dislodge some of the grit inside the wound - of course, this'll be a hospital job.

The nice guys sort me out with some gauze and a bandage, and Chris and I sit out the rest of the journey to Corioco in the minibus. Thankfully not feeling too bad, though I'm wet and cold - again, thoughts of how different it could have been keep the spirits up.

We arrive in Corioco for the buffet lunch - I've still got a bit of an appetite, so looking good. Everyone (except me and Chris) enjoys a hot shower before lunch and by mid afternoon we're back on the minibus to La Paz, some 3 hours away. The pain up till now had been bearable, but before we left, a doctor on our trip, Susan, kindly offered to have a look at the hole, and give it a clean. Yep, was pretty nasty and she didn't have the things she needed to take a proper look, though we had some Iodine to keep things clean. It was at this stage that the pain hit home, and we had a scene reminiscent of one of those movies where the hero needs to clean a gunshot wound with some liquor, and makes his eyes water.

The pain hit as soon as the Iodine found its way inside and, like a chameleon, I immediately blended in with the greenery around us. Was truly sickening, though only lasted a couple of minutes. Susan, honestly, thanks for that!

The bus ride back to La Paz wasn't the best of fun, and I felt a little unsafe on the cliffside road - it was raining, there was evidence of new/small landslides by the roadside, and to cap it off, the ignition key kepy falling out of the dash. Any minute now I was expecting the steering lock to kick in and put us on a course towards the 500 metre abyss below. It might not have been so bad if it had locked the steering to the left, sending us into the path of another vehicle.

As well as the above hazards, it was also getting dark and there seems to be an unwillingness for road users to bother with lights.

I guess as we got closer to La Paz, my worries turned from the dangerous road ahead, to the dangers we might face at the hospital. As well as a lengthy wait (we wait hours in casualty in England, it surely must be worse here in the third world...), would we be faced with unhygienic facilities and used/rusty equipment???

Anyway, we made it in one (albeit slightly damaged) piece at the clinic (Clinica Alemana) and there was no need for concern here. Our guide, Hector, sorted us out with a doctor and we were taken straight into a treatment room, and clean tools were brought out, and unwrapped.

I couldn't see much of what was going on, and also the doctors were speaking in Spanish, so I was oblivious to the good/bad they might have been discussing about my arm.

The first thing to do was to clean me out, and I was surprised by the noise of stone being dropped into the metal kidney bowl. Still not too much blood or pain at this point, and I didn't know that they had cut away a little piece of damaged skin.

Thankfully the stitches were applied after a couple of jabs of local anaesthetic - 3 on the inside (it was really quite deep) and 6 neat ones on the outside. With a gauze on top and a tight (best to keep the arm straight and avoid reopening the stitches(!)) bandage around the elbow, we were good (or thereabouts) to go.

Of course, weren't expecting free treatment and happily paid the USD 73 for what seemed a good job, though surprised at the cost of the antibiotics at a nearby pharmacy - 5 tabs, USD40, but the doc said they were the best. Perhaps they'll even sort of the cold I've had since back in Ushuaia. As long as they keep infection/amputation at bay, I'll be a happy, temporarily/partially disabled, boy.

Relieved to be back at the hotel, and continually thinking that, despite this inconvenience (I can't now pick my nose and scratch my backside at the same time), I can't help thinking about actually how lucky I have been. As the t-shirt says, I (truly) have survived the most dangerous road in the world.

It's not the most comfortable night's sleep, and the pain kicks in around 5 am, but a couple of tabs give some relief by first light.

Despite the above, the trip with Downhill Madness (oops, that name should have been a sign) was really good and we would like to have another go, but perhaps another time. Was a shame that the weather was poor and visibility over the edge obscured by cloud, though this probably helped keep our eye on the track.

Thanks to those who helped out and asked how I was, sorry I don't know all the names - Susan, James, Kim, Tony, 'the Swiss guy' - also to Hector who had been a great guide during the day, making sure everyone and their bikes were in good shape, and seemingly truly concerned about someone being hurt on his trip

Okay, let the healing begin...

Wednesday 9th May

A bit of a panic in the morning / the doctor had asked yesterday if I was up to date with my jabs, ie. Tetanus. I was pretty sure it was after visiting the local surgery before we left home last summer.

Finally found the immunisation card and found that my 10 year jab was running out this month.

Bugger, wasn't planning on going back to the clinic today/ever again, but just to be safe, we wandered down to check, and it wasn't necessary. I say we wandered down, the main street was busy with some protest folk, and no traffic getting through. Not sure why I didn't have a booster before we left...

Killed two birds with one stone at the clinic, and the doc took a look at Christine's ear, which had been playing up for the last few weeks, being blocked and making her a little deaf. I suggested that it could have been brain-ooze, but he said it was just a little wax. Christine may not be happy that I'm discussing her wax problem here, but I've just hit 'enter', so need to carry on.

Back up at our end of town, we had a bite to eat in Cafe Banais and happily bumped into Susan and James, and I was able to ask Susan about getting my stitches out. A bit of good and bad news - firstly she suggested that it wouldn't be too difficult a job for the most basically trained medical person, then she suggested that we could do it ourselves. Gulp.

Had a walk around the witches market after, and wondered what they did with the dried llama foetus's. Didn't do anything other than wonder about it, and bought some Pringles instead.

Early back to the hotel room, and watched tv to take my mind off what was happening under my bandages.

Thursday 10th May

Paul didn't sleep too bad, though it continues to be difficult finding a comfortable position.

Appetite still pretty much intact, and Chris kindly asked the hotel people to let me have breakfast in the room, and leaving Paul in bed with the remote control, Chris went over to the small but interesting Coca museum.

Didn't realise how important Coca is to the Bolivian folk in everyday life - it not only helps them get by with their day to day chores at this altitude, but also is an important offering to the Pachamama (mother earth) for a good harvest, and is present in all religious and magical ceremonies. An exchange of Coca leaves is also a sign of acceptnce of marriage.

Coca has been around for over 5000 years, with traces of coca leaves being found in mummies in Northern Peru, and been aged at 2500-1800 BC.

Incas removed the essential oils from the plant to carry out cerebral transplantations to remove tumours. It is astonishing that , even then, Coca leaves were used as an anaesthetic.

The Spaniards, especially the church, tried to ban the chewing of Coca, but it was soon realised that the indigenous people worked better when chewing the leaves - workers could continue manual labour for up to 48 hours when chewing the leaves, which alleviated the feeling of tiredness, hunger etc.

In 1886 Coca Cola was launched, using ingredents from the leaves, though the Coca was taken out of the recipe in 1912. Shame. Cocaine was then banned in the USA in 1914.

Whilst this is not a 'how to do it', cocaine is made from the coca leaves which are made into a paste. The paste is then refined to obtain base cocaine, and chemicals are added (sulphuric acid/hydrocloric acid).

Ironically, whilst the US has been working very hard to eradicate the coca leaves at source, the chemicals used to turn the natural/harmless leaves into cocaine, are mainly sourced from the US and Europe.

Back at the hotel, Chris finds Paul asleep and he wasn't too interested in doing anything, so she heads off for a bite to eat and a visit to the museums on Jaen Street, which is a lovely/quaint/narrow cobbled parade, and the museums pretty much lead into each other.

The first museum is very small, with information in Spanish only, though its easy to understand that the theme here is how Bolivia lost it's coastline to Chile. There's several old uniforms here, and photos of the liberators.

The next was a lot more interesting (Museo de Metales Preciosos Pre-Columbinos) - it houses some impressive Tiwanaku pottery and gold. One of the courtyard floors was decorated with kneecaps - mmm, nice. Also here, some silver jewellery and mummies.

The next museum had some items from the colonial period.

Across the street is Museo Casa Murillo ('the liberators house'), which had a lovely courtyard with balcony. The actual building was more interesting than the contents, ie religious art and furniture.

Later in the evening Paul is ready for some nourishment and fresh air. Well, as fresh as it gets in these narrow streets crowded with eco-unfriendly vehicles. That said, you're more likely to be run over before you choke to death.

Another fun packed night, in front of the TV, getting light relief from my friend Paracetamol.

Not much pain through the night, though woke up in the middle of it and thrilled to find Return of the Jedi on cable tv.

Friday 11th May

Paul can bend his arm just enough to do some two-handed typing, so caught up on a little bit of internet. That seemed to suck Paul's energy, so he went back to bed.

Chris went off to the Iglesia de San Francisco. Whilst building work on the church started back in 1549, it wasn't finished until the mid 18th century. Perhaps there's a negative side to the social chewing of coca leaves!

Apparently (the guide book says) the architecture of the church reflects the Mestizo-style!, but I won't bother to discuss the aspects of that here and now, however, in practical terms - there's large golden altar. I'm sure there's more to it than that.

Chris then went into the Museo de Etonografa y Folkloro. Very old tunics on display, some dating back to the 3rd Century AD. Amazing that fabric can last for so long. Maybe I should have some underwear made from the same stuff because my pants seem to last less than 6 months.

The modern part of the museum also houses some impressive pottery - Tiwanaku, Inca, Nazca, Chiru. Incredible that the Tiwanaku pottery looked so much better (more detailed/more robust-looking construction) than the colonial stuff.

Another room housed headdresses - interesting to see the ones of the Indian indigenous tribes.

Managed to rouse Paul out of bed for some food later in the day, though he didn't want to stay out to see a free musical performance. Quite a bizarre evening, listening to classical standards here in Bolivia. As well as the 'classics', the second half of the performance appeared to be some kind of freestyle jam, with the players seemingly knocking out different songs, at the same time as each other.

Paul popped in to Downhill Madness to see and thank Hector again for his help in getting me patched up and looked after.

Sadly, this is recorded as the latest Chris has been out for 'ages'. She's back in the room by 9pm.

Saturday 12th May

Chris wakes up to find that the eardrops prescribed to her have not done a lot of good, and now the waxy discharge is accompanied by pain and swelling.

Neither of us care to do too much and we spend most of the day in bed. I guess the rest is good for Paul, he seems to feel a little more comfortable and better after each sleeping session.

We find the time and energy to get out for some food, but not much else.

Sunday 13th May

We should have been out of La Paz by now, but Paul is still feeling unwell and really not fancying the prospect of getting on a bus and sitting in likely discomfort for hours, only to arrive at the next place and not feeling like doing anything.

We're a little grumpy with each other, though Paul still has the upper hand with sarcasm and having the last word. I'm sure Chris is actually having the last word, with some simple one-word put downs, like *******, ****, ***, ***, ************.

It's very much a Sunday feel around town, not a lot of folk about, and quite a few places closed early, or for the day.

The arm is definitely feeling okay, and it doesn't look like we're being troubled with infection - no particular swelling, pain, smell or green discharge. Maybe it's just the pills, slight lack of appetite and a touch of worry/frustration that's putting Paul off colour.

Monday 14th May

Ah yes, must be a weekday - more demonstrations in town!

We're still here in La Paz, but one more day and Paul's one more day better. Better in fact, and feeling sufficiently buoyant to suggest we move on tomorrow, to Copacabana, by Lake Titicaca.

To make the journey, hopefully, more pleasant, we've booked onto a tourist bus and we'll be picked up from the hotel, rather than having to lug the packs around. Luckily, Paul's pack has a side handle - he won't be using the back straps for a while yet.

Chilled out for a while in the sun that was above the main square - seems a popular place for both locals and tourists, and pigeons. Of course, reminds of us Trafalgar Square, though an icecream here costs the equivalent of 10p, rather than 10 pounds.

Picked up some more hooky cd's from the market, and a nice little holder for them, as I build up my collection.

Not much other shopping done here in La Paz, which is a bit silly cos it's sooo cheap (the souvenir crap). Nevermind...

After a bite to eat, we're back in the room, packing, ahead of tomorrow's bus journey to Copacabana, by Lake Titicaca.

Continues on next thread...

Thursday 3rd May

Sucre, Bolivia

There's regular buses from Potosi to Sucre, every hour or so, and we are pleased that this travelling day doesn't need to start early.

Had we had a shopping trolley, we could have freewheeled it down to the bus station, however, a taxi did an equally good job.

On arriving at the bus station, we're greeted by a ticket seller for the 10.30 bus, and we snap up the tickets, though the bus leaves 20 minutes late, stopping at a couple of places in town to fill up the empty seats. We're also stopped in our tracks by a makeshift roadblock - peaceful, but a pain in the ass, adding a little extra to our journey.

Of course, a journey on a local bus wouldn't be complete without tiny legroom. Hey, could be worse.

Nice scenery on the way, and we drop from the highest city in the world, to an easy on the breathing 2790 metres.

At the bus station there's a taxi waiting and we ask to be dropped at a recommended hostel, which is open, however undergoing some redecoration and is probably unsuitable, despite the man being very friendly.

Our taxi driver had already mentioned the Grand Hotel, but it sounded out of our price bracket, however we checked it out and was actually a lovely place, and a fair price of USD20, including breakfast. The room is lovely and overlooking a pretty courtyard - also pleased to have cable tv and free internet, oh, and oodles of hot water. We read and hear that hot water in hostels etc is quite a rarity, so happy to pay a little extra for it.

After chucking our bags in we head out for a wander around the interesting colonial-building town. Sucre was founded in 1538 and during the colonial period was the most important center in the eastern Spanish territories. Independence was declared in Sucre on 6th August 1825.

We found a trendy bar (mid afternoon - quite a lot of places closed for siesta) and enjoyed some good food and ginger ale.

After, we tracked down the popular Joy Ride Cafe and had some coffee and cake. Had hoped that these guys were doing quad bike tours, but seems they've stopped, though you can go on a motorbike tour and a bunch of other stuff.

Seems that we're continuing to eat very well in Bolivia - don't believe what the guide books tell you about the food here, there's some great stuff around!

Stopped at a supermarket just off the main square and were amazed to see a box (foot long) of After Eights. They cost as much as we had paid for lunch, but they were in date, and tasted great.

Friday 4th May

Going to see some Dinosaur footprints today, despite the warning in the excursion folder in the Joy Ride Cafe. We're told it's a waste of a 'couple of quid', but we're happy to take a chance for that sum.

The Dinotruck leaves the main square about 3 times a day, and we catch the first one at 9.30am, arriving at the site (now also a limestone quarry) - just us and another couple. They seem to offer half price transport for the first trip, and we realise why when we get to the site, and the guide (English speaking) tells us that the view is better in the afternoon, when the sun beats down on it.

The site is a huge (several hundred metres wide, a couple of hundred metres high) vertical wall, that was previously (millions of years ago) flat, but was sat on an active tectonic plate. There's about 5000 dinosaur footprint impressions here, and they were found only a few years ago, and confirmed only in 1998. Thankfully the quarrying work came across some elements in the ground that made it unsuitable (some chemical elements that I can't remember the name of), and work there stopped.

The site itself has been set up as a tourist spot, ie there's a few lifesize dinosaur models and associated information. The wall is viewed from a platform and, in truth, is quite far away from the wall, anbout 200 metres. Only a few months ago you could walk up to the wall, though I'd say the view is better from afar, especially if you have your own binoculars and camera with long lens. There are 'commercial' binoculars at the site, and they cost 2 Bolivianos for 2 minutes - a little annoying, but we're glad we remembered our binos.

The prints (clearly) show that the variety of creatures were in fact much larger than first thought - one predator walked for over 350 metres, the longest continuous recorded dinosaur track.

We were really blown away to be seeing this sight, just thinking of how old these prints were. Despite the distance away, it was very easy to see and very exciting.

Because of the disappointment of finding out that the view would be better around noon, we asked whether we could catch the later transport back to town, and this was no problem. Of course, we could stay at the site as long as we wanted and had the place to ourselves, including watching a couple of dinosaur documentaries while we waited on the sun getting in position.

Well worth hanging around for, the view became a lot clearer and more and more prints revealed themselves. The clearest prints were the 'figure-8' style of the Titanosaurio, a giant herbivore from 130 million years ago. Wow, and we're looking at this stuff!

The footprints were so clear you could also make out the 'claw' shape from the Noasaurio, as well as prints from the Abelsaurio and Carnotaurino. Quite difficult to appreciate the size of the prints from where we stood, though there were some workmen and their vehicles just below the wall and these prints were clearly from something gigantic!

Our time was soon up, and the follow on group arrived with our return transport. Shame that none of them seemed that impressed with the sight we had in front of us. No-one bothered to use the binoculars and I offered ours to a group of English folk - seemed a shame for them not to get a closeup view.

We totally enjoyed our visit to the cement quarry and feel quite lucky to have seen such a unique site/sight - this is one of the highlights of the trip for us. I'll put up some photos when we're home in July 2007.

Back in Sucre we enjoy lunch and continue talking about how much we enjoyed the Dinosaur prints, and then some cake.

We hang around in the sun in the plaza for a short while, and also buy our bus tickets out of here to La Paz for tomorrow night.

Sleep well, and looking forward to more exporing around town tomorrow.

Saturday 5th May

Up early to make the most of our last day, and Chris catches up on some diary.

Another blue sky day and we make our way out of town (on foot, not that far) towards the Mirador Cafe, which overlooks the town and surrounding hills. A nice walk up, though we have to stop to catch breath half way up - we're really not big fans of this high altitude stuff and wished for spaceman-style oxygen tanks.

The cafe is in an excellent position, though as a result it's quite busy but we get a nice table under a pretty tree, and away from the main group of tables.

Pleased to see Coffee Frappucino's on the menu, together with cake, of course.

Even more thrilled to see a small hummingbird zipping around and grabbing nectar from the flowers on the tree. Used up quite a lot of camera memory trying to get a few good shots - bloody thing won't keep still, but I'm partially successful!

We end up staying here for the best part of the afternoon, enjoying the warmth in the shade and the pretty greenery around us. Decide that we continue to really enjoy Bolivia.

Amongst others, Rich and Clyde won't be pleased that I bought some hooky CD's in the market in town on the way back down. Not sure if they'll play, but nice to have bought some music nonetheless.

Chris went back to the hotel whilst I was shopping, the diary is 'well' out of date, hence, I'll be typing up this blog a few weeks after the event!

Our bus leaves for La Paz at 6.30pm, so we get there nice and early to avoid any problems. All seems to be going well, until just after the supposed departure time, when we're told that our bus tickets are for the next day....

Not sure what the mix up was, and our Spanish is good enough to have heard the woman at the travel agency order our ticket for 'manana', being today, not tomorrow. Of course, manana means tomorrow, but I'm working within different tenses here, come on!

Anyway, after a few minutes, and some help from some other 'local' passengers, Chris jumps off the bus to discuss. Some minutes later, she's back and we're saved, though strangely two more seats have turned up for the folks who were double booked with us.

Glad to be on the road, and comfy in our semi-cama seats.

The journey to La Paz is fine and we get into town at first light. It had been warm enough until about 5am, when it turned something like 'freezing'. More importantly, we arrived safely and all is good.

continued on next thread...

Sunday 29th April

Potosi

Our bus from here (Uyuni) to Potosi doesn't head off til 10.30 am, so a leisurely start to the morning, and pleased for a good nights sleep.

No breakfast included at the hostel, so we pick up a few bits in town, and it's market day today.

Bus leaves pretty much on time, and thinking ahead, Paul chose a seat at the front of the bus to get a bit more legroom. We've already been warned about legroom in Bolivia, so will try to think ahead at each stop.

Unfortunately we're not sitting together, but the journey isn't so long, about 6 hours - a length that doesn't seem to bother us much nowadays.

The legroom is fine, though just before we head off it looks like a couple of other English folk will have to stand, but thankfully there's been some kind of mix up and they soon get their seats back.

The journey is fine, and more interesting mountainous scenery passes us by.

I did feel a little sorry for the girl sitting next to me, she seemed to be crying every so often. With my limited Spanish, there wasn't much I could do to help, unless we were ordering from a menu, or needed directions somewhere.

Anyway, wasn't long before the chubby miss let herself down by chucking a small bag of rubbish out of the window. Not sure if she actually thought it would be better to throw it into the small river we splashed through, so it would wash away into the magic trash can at the end. Tch! - at times like this I wish I could whisper some cutting Spanish words under my breath. She clearly didn't understand the ones I used, accompanied by the traditional British sideways shake of the head.

So, after more scenery, rocks, trees, leathery faced old women, limping dawgs, we get into 'downtown' Potosi, and dropped at the main bus station outside of town.

We're a little lost, with our current position off the Lonely Planet map, though we head up the hill, seeking a landmark.

Not finding one, we seek help, but get lost in translation, however, we are saved by a couple with their children, who communicate to us as to whether we are looking for a room. Whilst we have a hostel in mind, theirs sounds good - double room, private bathroom, cable TV, quiet, central location (though we're now wary of what this means to different people - central can still mean a 15 minute walk away!), and we're able to negotiate the price we were looking to pay elsewhere, from 100 Bolivianos, to 70, which is about just under GBP5 for both of us.

Chatted in our best Spanish for the 10 minute taxi ride to their (Monica and Francisco, children Claudia and Rodriguo) place, and yes, it's very nice, quiet homely, and we even have our own living room.

Walked, the short walk, into town and made some tour enquiries, including the Silver Mine tour, at Koala Tours (recommended in the guide book, and yes, seem very good).

There's an excellent veggie restaurant above the tour shop, and we enjoyed a great 4 course meal for less than GBP3 TOTAL.

This, Potosi, is the highest city in the world at 4070 metres, and we feel it as we walk back up hill to our digs.

Enjoy a fairly early night, with a little bit of TV and chocolate. The rooms a little bit cold, but cosy under the blankets.

Monday 30th April

Wow, another month goes by, and only 2 full months to go before we're home.

Whilst breakfast isn't included with our room, we have it here anyway, for a little extra. Nice to have warm rolls, and freshly made juice.

Had a wander around the pretty town (highest city in the world), Chris booked a tour of the silver mine for Wednesday.

Potosi was founded in 1545, following the discovery of ore in the hill behind, called Cerro Rico (rich mountain). It grew into Latin Americas largest and wealthiest cities - richer even than London. In turn, many churches were built (32 remain) and it has very impressive colonial buildings.

Enjoy a drink on top of the Cafe Mirador (Lookout) - great views of Potosi, The Plaza and Cerro Rico. The building was once a church, and now a cafe and theatre.

Later on we enjoyed a cheap 4 course lunch at the restaurant above the Koala tours shop.

Considered joining the trip to the Tinku festival, but decided that animal sacrifice and (literally, sometimes) fights to the death in the interest of spilling blood onto the sacred ground and ensuring a healthy harvest. Would have been very interesting, with the traditional dress, music and partying and the fact that it's not a tourist event, and perhaps would have been one of the most authentic experiences on this trip....

Just in case we change our minds about going to the Tinku festival, Chris changes her mine tour to tomorrow.

Chilly in our room in the evening - no heater, but the TV keeps us warm and enjoy back-to-back episodes of CSI.

Tuesday 1st May

Chris up early for the mine tour, and we have breakfast together before she heads off. Paul creeps back into bed for a bit.

The mine tour went a little like this...

The group first of all stopped off and bought a few bits and pieces (gifts) for the miners - soft drinks, snacks, dynamite - the usual stuff.

We had a talk on the miners equipment, including the Bolivian dynamite, which is apparently the best, followed by Argentinian. Peruvian dynamite is bottom of the list. Also had a sip of the miners tipple - 96% proof.

For our entry into the mine itself, we kitted up in jacket, trousers and helmet with built in torch - the heavy battery is on a belt. On the way towards the mine we stop at the miners market and bought some coca leaves (staple in high-altitude Bolivian life). Some of our group had a super-cheap meal, though not much for veggies.

Then we were taken to Cerro Rico, via the treatment plant where the minerals are purified. Zinc is the main mineral now mined, but the plant we visited still deals with silver ore.

Our guide, Pedro, explained some history about the mine, and that millions of labourers were conscripted to work the mines - indigenous people and African slaves. The Africans quickly perished due to the harsh climatical conditions.

Over 8 million workers died from diseases, accidents and contact with the toxic chemicals, including Mercury, in the mine.

Conditions were, and continue to be, appalling in the mines - even as we entered the mine, the heat, dust and cramped conditions hit us.

Firstly we visited the museum inside the mine, impressed with the information in English. There's a 'devil' statue inside the mine, that is considered good luck and the miners give offerings (cigarettes and coca leaves) for prosperity.

They work the mine as a cooperative venture, with each miner working on his own and selling his minerals/ore to a smelter through the cooperative. We learn that some of the miners aren't doing too bad, money-wise, and get around 5/6000 Bolivianos a month, though some earn only as little as a tenth of that.

Pedro's father worked the mine for more than 30 years and brought home on average 600 a month - he never found silver or made claim to a large mineral deposit.

Moving down to the first level, a little cramped and walking a little bent over, then we slide down some wooden planks to the second level, where it is more dusty and the heat sharply rises and we need to scramble through some very low ceiling parts before getting to the third level.

We all had a go at pulling and carrying the heavy buckets, though needed to do it in two's. Bloody hard work, bringing on a little perspiration!

The miners were pleased to receive our gifts, cigarettes, coca leaves, soft drinks, fruit and dynamite.

Quite noisy at this level - compressed air driving the pneumatic drills - quite unnerving.

Heading back up, we're on our hands and knees, but pleased for the coolness of level 1 and then back in to the fresh air.

After our 'hard work' we rest a while in our filthy overalls, and then the boys in the group went to perpare their dynamite. The guides positioned the dynamite and 5 loud explosions followed - no lives or limbs were lost!

Interesting day, and quite unforgetable - Paul regrets not going, but enjoyed his extra rest in bed.

We met up in town for late lunch and chatted for the rest of the afternoon, before stocking up on M&M's.

Wednesday 2nd May

Leisurely breakfast, and went to the Museo and Convent de San Francisco. Not quite worth the 40 Bolivianos we paid , though we did have a guide briefly, but would have preferred to wander around ourselves. There's still 10 monks here - one French and 9 Bolivians, who all teach in the nearby school.

After, we sat in the Plaza taking sneaky pictures of the local women in their traditional dress - knee high pleated skirts, thick tights and jumpers/shawls - topped off with a bowler hat.

After lunch at Koala Cafe we went across the road into the Casa Real de la Moneda (Royal Mint) - there's usually an English tour in the afternoon, about 2pm. The building was constructed between 1743 and 1773 to control the minting of colonial coins. We were first shown Bolivias first locomotive, and then into a lovely room housing religious art. One room holds a copy of Potosi's most famous painting, which is currently 'on tour' around the globe. It'll be coming to London in January 2008, at the National Gallery.

Interesting that the majority of the religious art was painted by indigenous artists who simply copied other art, including on occasions the original artists signature!

Religious art was used as a tool to evangelise the indigenous people .

The most interesting rooms hold the coins and wooden minting machines. The first coins were of course silver, and simply and crudely hammered into shape - this made them susceptible to 'theft' as folk would trim small pieces of silver from the coins.

Eventually the coins were made from moulds, giving them a perfectly circular shape.

The wooden minting machines were in excellent condition in the musuem, and we saw the lower level where mules were used to turn the huge machines - these ran 24 hours a day.

It's ironic that for hundreds of years, Spain's coins were made in Potosi, whereas now, Bolivias coins are made in Spain.

Was interesting to see the different coins throughout the colonial period - the different designs, palmtrees, llamas, Cerro Rico. Also within the museum were Tiahuanaco/Tiwanaku artefacts and several mummified children.

Sobering to see that several of the smelting rooms still had blackened brickwork from the smoke generated in there - must have been such harsh conditions for the indian and african slaves to work in.

After the interesting and recommended museum, we caught up on some internet chores and no doubt some more food at the Koala Cafe- I know it's bad that we had most meals in Potosi at the same place, but when it's so good, it's always risky to try somewhere else and be disappointed...

Off to Sucre tomorrow, so packed in the evening and readied ourselves for departure...

Really enjoyed our time in Potosi, though perhaps not the altitude.

continues on next thread...

Thursday 26th April

Overland 4x4 trip to Uyuni

We say goodbye to the various people and cats at our hostel in San Pedro, and wait for the minibus that starts our 3 day trip across the desert to Uyuni.

Picked up just after 8am, and driven back in to the centre of the small town, where we meet the other folks in our group, which are mostly Czech and Slovak Head Doctors, also an English couple, Duncan and Laura, though they will not be on our 4x4 that we'll pick up on the other side of the border.

Enjoyed an outdoor breakfast just over the Bolivian border, at 4000 metres, where it's a little more chilly. Paul had his first experience of chewing coca leaves, which aren't all that nice.

Fantastic view from here of Volcano Licanabur (5916m) and at the foot of the volcano we came across Laguna Blanca and Laghuna Verde - impressive sights, though a little put off by the 'toxic' foam at the edge of the Laguna.

The journey across the bumpy terrain is fine in the 4x4 and our guide/driver looks up to the job of ferrying us around for the next couple of days.

Next stop is at Polque's hot springs, though we didn't do any more than sit on the edge with our feet in. Whilst the water is nice and hot, the time will come when you'll need to get out into the absolutely freezing cold - again, it's bright and sunny, but we're way up high.

Further along we stop at an active geothermic field and see various steam pools and bubbling-mud pools. We're warned not to get too close.....

The onward journey gives us ever more impressive scenery, though very dry and arid.

We're enjoying our group (6 plus driver) and our Czech/Slovak chums are very friendly and accomodating of speaking English. Excellent English. Not a lot is heard from our guide, who I'd say is more of a driver, however, he's doing a great job and, so far, we're really pleased we picked the Estrella Del Sur tour.

Whilst our driver is doing a great job, it feels like our jeep is not quite 100% and we're going slower than the others. Most times we've stopped so far, the bonnet has been open and several folks peering inside.

At lunchtime (quite late afternoon) we stopped at our digs for tonight near Laguna Colorada - food surprisingly very good, all things considered. Plenty to go around. Not sure how warm it'll be in our dorm room tonight, and we're already aware that there's no hot water or showers in this place.

After food, we drive down to the lake edge, where there's an amazing 'red' colour in the water, which looks great against the white salt areas in the distance. Also here are rare Jamas Flamingoes, Chilean and Andean Flamingoes in their hundreds, who survive on the pink algae in the water.

Disappointed that we had a short time here as it's an amazing scene.

Back at the digs, we hang around and chat with folks from our group, looking forward to dinner.

Again, impressed with the food - soup, veggie spaghetti, drinks - all included in the trip price. So, Day 1 of the trip and we're really pleased with everything, after not expecting too much - we thought it would be basic sandwiches for every meal!

Very pleased to see a small wood-burner set alight for us, and we make a bench circle as tight as we can and make the most of the limited heat. Of course, whilst this is nice, it'll be even colder when we go into our room!

Folk soon head off to bed and we're not far behind - very glad that we had asked if they had any spare blankets (mantas). So, with 3 layers, plus sleeping blanket, plus clothes and a hat, we cocoon ourselves and prey that we don't die of hypothermia during the night.

It's not a best night's sleep, for any of us in the room (we shared with Duncan and Laura), though Chris seems to have won the prize for most shut-eye. And snoring.

Friday 27th April

Up quite early, and away by just after 8am. Breakfast very good, considering.

More of the same planned for today, heading north, and stopping at various interesting sites.

First stop, a curious random collection of huge stones in the middle of nowhere, one in particular called Arbol de Piedra (Stone Tree - a stone that looks like a tree etc.), then onward to Laguna Honda, Laguna Hedionda and Laguna Canapa. Again, great views and landscapes.

We stopped for a pleasant lunch by the 3rd laguna and watched the flamingoes tucking in themselves, though I much preferred the salad to the pink algae.

Very laid back, just watching the scenery around us, enjoying the fresh air and the company of some new friends.

Quite a long drive in the afternoon across the Salar (salt flat) de Chiguna, which wasn't as impressive as it could have been, due to a cloudy sky.

This was also the opportunity for us to see the optical illusions that are thrown up in such, flat, places - the area is extremely flat and nearly aligned perfectly with the shape of Earth, allowing visitors to see the curvature of the planet by producing an optical illusion that makes many of the mountains within the vicinity appear to be floating in the air since their bases are on the other side of the curve and thus out-of-sight.

Onward through the small village of San Juan towards the Salt Hotel, and saw our first quinoa (an andean crop) fields on the way.

PLeased to arrive at the Salt Hotel, and pleased that it seems warmer here - we're also a little lower in altitude.

Funny little place, though very nice. Made from salt and throughout the floor is simply sand (except in the showers/toilets). Our room is fine, and the bed comfortable.

We have a couple of hours to kill before a group dinner, and sit and chat, and read and play some Ipod. There's even a little tuck shop here, where we see Snickers, Toblerone, Skittles and other such luxuries for the first time in a while.

Dinner was excellent, really good stuff and wine, Also enjoyed good company at the table.

Afterwards, played cards for a while, including Top Trumps Planets, and Sharks.

Bed quite early, as we're up at 5 am tomorrow.

Again, another good day, and we feel that the trip is such a bargain (at 49,000 Pesos/GBP49).

Saturday 28th April

Yaaaawn - up at 5am sharp, though not much to do to get ready, the showers can only be used during the afternoon/evening. No problem. breakfast will also follow later, once we've made it to our sunrise rendezvous.

The moon is far over the horizon at this time, leaving a nice clear blanket of stars to admire, as well as the occasional shooting star.

Leaving a little later than planned, we head off with fingers crossed that we get to the sunrise point just in time.

We're now on the Salar de Uyuni, the largest and highest salt lake in the world, at 3650m, and covering 9000-12000 sq kilometres - this is twice as big as the great salt lakes in the USA. The depth of the salt ranges from 2-20 metres, and was part of a prehistoric lake, Lago Minchin, which dried up many, many years ago...

Unfortunately there's quite a bit of cloud around, especially where the sun is rising, so not the best of views, but it's amazing standing in the middle of the huge open, white, space.

There's an island in the middle of the salt flat, Isla de Los Pescadores (Fisherman Island), and you can climb to the top to get great views of the surrounding flats.

Had breakfast here too and played around with taking some photos, where it looks like Chris is as big as a book, etc. Sorry, no picture to show, but will update 'soon'.

Once the sun was fully up, the surrounding white salt looks amazing, and stretches far out to the horizon, though it would have been very cool to see nothing else on the horizon at all, for the whole 360 degree view.

Back in the jeep, we drive across the flat to another hotel in the middle of nowhere, which is made of salt. Then, onto some working saltmines at the edge of the flats.

Had lunch near here, again, great food.

Chris was given a bag of coca leaves to feed to a fairly-tame Yuanco. I say fairly tame, but it had been spitting at a few folks previously, like a camel.

By mid-afternoon we arrived in the dusty town of Uyuni, but before stopping we visit the train cemetary - simply a bunch of rusting locomotives, sat on their tracks in the middle of the desert. It is said that Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid held up one of these trains....

Back in Uyuni, we spent a few moments wondering whether to stay in town for a night, or get the overnight bus straight up to Potosi.

A few minutes later.....yep, we'll stay here. We're recommended by the Estrella people to stay at a hostel right by the open air bus terminal (oops, can't remember the name), and they also get us to a recommended bus company (6th de Octubre) to buy our ticket for tomorrow morning.

We'll not be doing much here except killing some time and avoiding taking the bus overnight. I'm sure it's safe, but we're more comfortable waiting until tomorrow. Anyway, it's only about a 6 hour journey, so we'd be arriving in the middle of the night, to then have to find accomodation. Not worth the bother...

After a long awaited shower, we spend some time in the small town, get some Boliviano's, and some food.

Using an ATM (there's a Visa one in town, not certain about Mastercard), it works out for me (as a Brit) that I get slightly more US Dollars for my money than Bolivianos, so I reckon we'll be using a mixture whilst we're in the country. Another tip, if you're using a debit card, like Nationwide's (www.nationwide.co.uk - free international ATM withdrawals), it'd be a good idea to make small withdrawals to give you smaller notes - 50 Bolivianos seem to be the smallest the machines give. US Dollars seem to be 20's.

Whilst we had said goodbye to Duncan and Laura, we had hoped we bump into them in town for a last meal, alas.......

Anyway, we'll underline the Uyuni overland trip here, and simply say that we had a great time, and, as well as recommending anyone in the vicinity to do the trip, we don't think you'd go wrong booking with Estrella del Sur, even if it's a few quid more.

continued on next thread...

San Pedro de Atacama

Sunday 22nd April

So another bus journey over, and we are dropped off in a dusty carpark, where there are a few hostel owners hanging around for some business.

We had make a booking with one of the hostels that's slightly out of town, and were expecting to be picked up, however they didn't show. On the basis that there's no taxis in sight, we don't have a map and feel completely lost, we take up the offer of a room from the guy that owns Hostel Iquisa, which he says is nice, central and 5000Pesos each per night. He's also got a van to take us there, so we accept.

It's a small place, that looks out across the desert to the mountains and seemingly there's noone else there.

The room is fine, and the shared bathroom also looks okay. No breakfast here, but we have full use of the kitchen. There's also three cats, all responding to the name 'Mooncat'.

We drop off our bags, and follow the crappy map towards town, but go slightly wrong and end up missing the centre. Thankfully the two dogs that followed us know the way back, and we soon hit the 'highstreet'.

Not your usual highstreet mind, we are in the middle of the desert after all. However, there seems to be quite a lot going on - lots of tour shops, restaurants/bars but all on a small, dusty, scale. Looks like an interesting place to hang out for a few days.

Because our time here is quite limited we make enquiries as to the local tours - we aware of the Moon Valley tour, various geysers and ruins. Of course, this is also where we pick up our 4x4 trip to Uyuni, Bolivia.

Also, we're low on Pesos, so make a beeline to one of the two ATM's in town. One's Mastercard, the other, Visa - both of them quite near to the main street.

Booked our Moon Valley tour, and had a bite to eat at the excellent 'Todo Natural' restaurant.

Then, an early night and to take things easy at 2500 metres.

Monday 23rd April

Visited the Archaelogical Museum, which contains the collection of Padre Gustave Paige, a Belgian missionary who lived in San Pedro between 1955 and 1980. Lots of other interesting exhibits - pottery, textiles, miniature Inca artefacts, Paleoithic tools, skulls with headdresses, jewellery, and paraphernalia for smoking hallucinogenic drugs!

The museum details the development of pre-Hispanic Atacameno society. We learnt that there was human occupation of the area approx. 11,000 years ago.

At that time it was more humid, as the ice age was ending, and large glaciers melting meant that it became more wet. Nevertheless, the flora and fauna was the same, just more plentiful.

The weather changed, to like what we have today, around 6-8000 years ago.

Lunch followed, then we booked our 'Salt Flats' tour, after having read therecommendations/cautions book at the tourist office. Clearly, 'Estrella del Sur' came out well in the reviews, and we were pleased to book with them. Lionel was very friendly, and explained the 3 day/2 night very well. It's a little more expensive than most of the others, at 49,000 Pesos, but we reckon it'll be worth it and will keep our fingers crossed.

After lunch, our afternoon trip out to the Moon Valley heads off.

First stop, we head to a viewpoint of the surrounding mountain ranges (The Andean Mountain Range - a chain of volcanoes) - excellent sight/site, and our guide gives us some information of the surrounding geological area. Also had a view of the Salar (Salt Flat) de Atacama.

We're told that 40% of the world's Lithium is mined in the area.

Back in the bus we head over to Death Valley - stunning reddish landscapes. Excellent fun running down the high sandy slopes - this is where some of the sand-boarding tours come.

Moving on, we drive on to Moon Valley (Valle de la Luna) itself and we start by walking through a small canyon network, which are mainly made of salt, though they have a coating of sandy dust covering them. Apparently, after rain, the place turns white!

At the main viewpoint in the Valley, we start by walking from the carpark up to the top of a huge sand dune, then along to the 'medium' (exertion required to get there) viewpoint, where we have excellent 360 degree views, as the sun slowly sets in the distance. Fantastic landscapes, and the setting sun turns the surrounding hills a gorgeous red. Gets a bit bloody cold after the sun sets!

The tour was a good as was promised at the office in town, and we'd highly recommend Cosmo Andino. They're a little more expensive, but it paid off.

Back in town and we head straight for Todo Natural and enjoy an excellent 3 course meal with wine, for under GBP10.

Tuesday 24th April

Paul woke up, under the weather - a bit achy-breaky, bad (loose!)stomach etc. As a result we decide against hiring bikes, and he stays in bed while Chris heads into town, visiting the Church, which has a roof made from thick cactus bark.

Some nuns came into the church in their dazzling-white tunics (how do they keep them so clean in this dusty place?) and started praying. Couldn't believe it when a photographer came in and started to film them inside the church, at the altar, withthe priest. A little hypocritical when there's a big notice directed at tourists, deeming photography/filming forbidden as it 'harms the saints faces'.

After, Chris went along to the cemetary on the edge of town - lots of simple crosses placed on mounds of earth with colourful wreaths wrapped around the crosses.

Nice Chris also picked up some food in town for lunch.

After catching up on some diary, Chris walked to Pukara de Quitor, 3kms out of town - a 12th century fortress, which was restored in 1981. Not a huge amount to see, mainly consisting of low walls, so some imagination required.

The fortress was stormed by the Spanish under Pedro de Valdivia -1000 defenders were overcome by only 30 horsemen, but they were helped by Indians.

Despite the altitude, it can get very hot under the bright sun, so Chris very glad of a lift from a passer-by back to town.

In the evening, Paul well enough for a walk into the town and for some food, again atTodo Natrural. This time, the excellent food accompanied by a local group who played a handful of traditional tunes, on guitar, drum, flute and panpipes.

Fairly early night ahead of an early start for a trip to the geysers - pickup at 4am!!!

Wednesday 25th April

Paul still not in great health and decides against joining the daytrip to the El Tatio geysers.

The pickup was on time, and the minibus makes its way through the darkness up to 4300metres - the worlds highest geyser field.

Due to science, the geysers are more active just before sunrise, though Chris was a little disappointed, as she had expected/hoped to see huge spurts of water, but the highest here only about 2 metres. All the same, the site was impressive - lots of little geysers, coloured streams caused by the minerals.

The site is a little dangerous, as there's no safety rails around the geyser holes. It comes as no surprise to hear that there are regular accidents!

After the geysers the trip continues to a nearby hotspring, where we enjoy a dip. Also here, the French geyser - so named after the first (French) person to fall in and perish.

Apparently, geysers are formed when a frozen underground river makes contact with hot rocks.

On the journey back to San Pedro, the group stops at a small village, inhabited by only a few folk, making a living from the tourists. It's a sweet reed-roofed village, with a delightful little church.

Chris had her best cheese empanada here!

On the last part of the journey back, we stopped to see a 'hundreds of years old' cactus, and also persuaded the guide to show us a waterfall a little downstream. Couldn't believe we were sitting by a waterfall in one of the driest areas of the world.

Paul felt better for the extra rest in bed, and was on better form in time for late lunch, again at Todo Natural. Probably wasn't the best thing to have after a dodgy stomach, but we enjoyed a complementary Pisco Sour. Hey, maybe it's just what Paul needs!

Not much done for the rest of the day - we get our stuff ready for heading out on the Uyuni trip, and into Bolivia.

to be continued on the next thread...

Salta

Friday 20th April

So, our bus from Mendoza gets us into Salta Bus Terminal just after midday. First thing to do is make our way to the hostel 'Hostel in Salta', which seems quite near, as far as the map is concerned.

20 minutes later (walking!), we get to the place and are shown to our delightful 'attic' room (room 3), which has it's own bathroom. Breakfast is included here too. At the time of writing this, I can't remember how much the room cost, but it was one of the cheapest places we had stayed in Argentina, around GBP6 a night for both of us.

Walked into town and stpped at the large main Plaza (9 de Julio) and had some lunch on the square.

The plaza is very pretty and not troubled by too much traffic. The square is surrounded by orange trees and interesting Colonial buildings, which are combinations of museums, restaurants, cafes and small shops.

Nice lunch, and cheap too, and pleased/surprised to see Susanne, who we met a few weeks ago in Torres del Paine. She's now travelling with her friend Britta, since Mike went home from Calafate.

Pleased to catch up over lunch, and we plan to meet up again in the evening.

With full tums, we walk across to the Cable Car (Teleferico) to take us up the hill for vies of the city and further out.

The view are good, and the facilities at the top of the cable car are quite well done - restaurant, neat waterfall, various viewing sites. Views of the surrounding peaks slightly obscured by clouds, though it's still quite warm.

After an hour at the top, we walk back down to town, though initially getting lost and walking off towards the nearest peak. The proper path down takes you through a green wooded area, leading to the Güemes Monument. General Martín Miguel de Güemes, a hero of the wars of independence.

Trying to be organised, we went back via the bus station to get out tickets out of here, to San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), for Sunday. We would hang around here longer, but the weather forecast not so good for the next few days, and the next bus isn't until Tuesday.

Only two bus companies go from here to San Pedro (Pullman and Geminis) and both go on the same days, 3 days a week. The Gemini bus was full for Sunday, so went with Pullman - prices pretty much the same, we paid 140Pesos each, semi-cama.

Rushed back to the hostel to change, before heading back out to meet with Susanne for dinner. Had a lovely evening, though back quite early. Susanne and Britta get a 5am bus tomorrow!

Saturday 21st April

Both of us woke up feeling a little grotty, and we stayed in bed, missing breakfast.

Finally got into town around noon, and had some lunch and a litre of orange juice, for health reasons! Christine's Submarino (hot mile with a bar of choc melted into it) cheered her up.

As it's siesta time, and not much open, we walked around the interesting town bordering the main plaza.

Later, after 5pm when things spring to life again, we visited the Museum of High Altitude Archaeology. Several mummies are stored here, but only one (amazingly preserved) is on show to the public. There are some photos of 3 others recently found - 3 children, who look as though they have only recently died. The 'Queen of the Mountain' is on show - a girl offered (sacrificed) to the Inca divinities at the summit of Chuscha Mountain.

In the early 1920´s the tomb of the girl was looted and the mummy was bought by a collector from Buenos Aires. Thankfully her last owner saw fit to contact the Centre for the Studies in Applied Politics, and after 82 years the mummy was returned to the province of Salta in 2006.

The body looks quite disfigured, but you can steill see hair and teeth.

More than 200 mountains with archaelogical remains have been discovered in the Andes.

Also on show at the (quite small) museum are some objects that were found with the mummy - a necklace, shells, bowls, combs and other pottery.

After the museum, we visit the Cathedral, also on the main Plaza.

Lonely Planet right to call it gaudy! It's pink and white outside and the inside is quite ornate, with paintings and an elaborate golden altar.

Next, and also on the Plaza, we visited the Old City Hall (18th Century Cabildo). It houses religious and modern art - pottery, funeral urns, furniture, historic coins, as well as some old vehicles.

Unfortunately only 1 solitary sign in English, so not a huge amount of information gained, but interesting anyway, and worth the 2 Pesos entrance.

A little sorry that we're feeling grotty on our last night in Argentina, and not too excited about the early start tomorrow... (which also means we'll miss breakfast again!)

Sunday 22nd April

The hostel ordered a taxi for us to take us to the bus station, glad that it turned up on time at 6.30am - worst nightmare is to miss a bus!, especially in a place where the next one isn't for 2 more days.

Anyway, we're on time and get some cheap croissants at the bus station and use up the last of our Argentinian Pesos.

The bus leaves pretty much on time, and leg room is pretty good, on this semi-cama bus, which is mainly full of tourists.

The route takes us via San Salvador de Jujuy and we pass some amazing mountainous scenery, where we remember that we're feeling the effects of the altitude.

Food served onboard is basic, but welcome.

Took quite a while getting through the border control - we've been lucky so far, usually we done within 20 minutes, but here at least an hour.

Arrive in Chile for the last time...

to be continued on next thread...

Sunday 15th April

Mendoza, Argentina

We remember Derrick on his Birthday today.

So, another travelling day, and we're up early to squeeze in breakfast before heading to the busy metro for the few stops to the bus station. Hopefully, being quite early on a Sunday, the metro won't be too busy.

Yep, it's fine and we get to the bus station before 10am for our 10.30 departure.

A little odd when we check-in to where we bought our tickets - we're led to the booth next door and seemingly signed on to another bus/another company, though this bus is due to leave now, at 10am.

Turns out fine, maybe even a little more comfy on this semi-cama bus, which is going all the way to Buenos Aires, via Mendoza. Also, as we leave the terminal, there's not too many people onboard, so should make the border crossing a little quicker.

As well as the treat of snacks during the journey, we're also treated to some loud music courtesy of the driver. Curiously, it seems that whenever he looks down and touches the volume control (by his feet), the bus veers into the centre of the road. We should be safe, it was Friday 13th a couple of days ago.

A couple ofours into the journey and the terrain gets hilly and mountainous. Set against the clear blue sky, it's a great sight.

We're essentially climbing to the border and pass the nearby Parque Provincial Aconcagus, which has the western hemisphere's highest summit, at 6960m.

Took a little while to cross the border (we had been used to getting a coachload through in 20 minutes, but took an hour here, but it is a major road border between Chile and Argentina.

Impressive scenery as we continue the journey, though our driver seems in a hurry, and these roads are a little narrow, with steep drops to the side.

Went through Uspallata, a pretty valley (especially due to the autumn colours creeping into the trees. This place was where they filmed '7 ears in Tibet' (Brad Pitt).

Passed a few of the rafting sites along the way and as we neared Mendoza, though the water looks pretty flat, and not a lot of fun.

At the bus terminal, arriving an hour or so later than expected, we're met by a guy who would like us to stay at his hotel. He seems fine, the place looks good, and we get our own apartment for 70Pesos (just under GBP12) a night, including breakfast. Mendoza would have been a good place to meet up with other travellers, but the lure of our own bathroom, cable TV, small kitchenette is a good lure. It's also a minute from the centre of town - it's called Providencia Apartments, on San Juan, and neear to the tourist information 'hut' by Avenida San Martin.

It's evening, so we have a wander around town - Mendoza is quite different to what we expected, a lot more busy, though not suggesting it's a bad place. Good vibe in town on this Sunday evening - the main plaza (Plaza Independencia) busy with market stalls and open air performances. Quite a few police in town to keep an eye on revellers out to watch the Boca Juniors v River Plate game on tonight.

Had a bargain dinner at a local pizza/pasta restaurant -washed down with a local beer. Nice to be back in Argentina and enjoying the amazingly good prices, and even moreso that it's even warmer here than Santiago - in fact, nudging on the humid side.

Had a further wander around the Plaza - Christine wishing her sister, Julie, was here for them to enjoy spending aaaagggggeeeesss at the jewellery stands.

Managed to make a collect call back to the UK - you need to call the international operator on '000'. Convenient to have an English speaker at the other end to save Paul from his limited Espanol. Seems that Morgan Stanley have sorted my account from the recent misuse by some ponce in New Zealand.

Watched a little bit of telly, before a good nights sleep.

Monday 16th April

Easy morning - a little bit of internet, and caught up with Kim online, arranged to meet for late lunch with her and Rebecca.

Chris did a some research on wine tours while Paul caught up some more with the blog.

Had lunch at a great vegetarian restaurant, called Green Apple, a little bit out of the centre of town, but easy walking distance. It's an 'all you can eat' buffet, and the range and quality of food is really good. Was 15Pesos, excluding drinks - nice people run the place and we're looking forward to at least one more visit while we're here.

Realised again that Mendoza is much bigger than we thought.

Found out about a 'huge' mall near the bus station and decided to walk down there. Wasn't quite where it was pinpointed on the map for us, and it turned out to be a few kilometres up the highway, though literally a few minutes bu taxi. A nice place (if you like that sort of thing), though not a huge amount of shops. There's a multiscreen cinema there too. Didn't spend too long here before the taxi back to town.

Met back up with Kim in the evening (her truck leaves town in the morning), and the three of us grab some food and beer at a local restaurant in the pedestrian area. Great steak sandwich!

Were joined by a couple of dogs, though it was unusual to see one of them (with a limp) being aggressive to the other. Ended up in a bit of a fight (started by the disabled one), that was broken up by a couple of local guys. The disabled one hobbled off, limping, and yelping.

Tuesday 17th April

Making the most of our nice apartment and took it lazy again in the morning. Enjoying having breakfast brought up to our room!

Paul doesn't think it's worth going on one of the expensive all-day wine tours, that include lunch. It's between USD105 and USD125 each. Neither of us is that 'into' wine, and we're not sure how good the inclusive lunch will be, especially for veggie Chris.

Instead, we take our chances on a half day tour, that will visit two wineries, including one that is listed inthe top-20 in a magazine we picked up at reception. This tour costs 40Pesos each, less 5% discount for being good HI members.

Had a semi-picnic lunch in the park-like Plaza before getting to the nearby HI Hostel to wait for our transport. Sod's law at work here - arrived a few minutes before the suggested pickup time of 2.30, to be collected at 3. Also a little cross to find we have a coachload of 24 people, when we were told that the max is 14. Grrrr.

The first winery we visit, about 40 minutes drive from town, is 'Weinert'. The tour wasokay, though the commentary in a mix of Spanish and English - a little rushed. Nice to see a traditional cellar being used to store the wine in huge oak casks. ( metres deep, and the walls a metre thick.

Got to taste a white, a red and a dessert wine. Chris preferred the latter - Paul still prefers a cool white.

Next winery stop - French-owned 'Fabre Montmayou', rated 17th out of 20 in Wine Republic magazine.

First we saw the vines, which are covered by an expensive neting to prevent damage by seemingly frequest hail storms, which is despite the area receiving little rainfall through the year.

Different to the previous winery, the wine here is fermented in huge, modern, stainless steel tanks and then stored in smaller wooden barrels. These barrels are only used 4 times, whilst the huge barrels at the previous winery are used for over 100 years, with regular, thorough, cleanouts.

Their white wine is bottled within several months of harvest, and their longest-barrelled wine (and the most expensive) is stored for 16 months and then bottle-stored for a further 12 months.

We learnt a few things today, including that the barrel (from California) gives the wine some of its flavour, including chocolate, pepper and leather (??!!??) - the tannins coming from the wood, and the higher oercentage of tannins, the longer the wine will keep. This therefore explains why 'young' wines do not keep (low tannin content, as they're not stored in barrels).

Chris was happy to also learn that the indentation the the bottom of the wine bottle indicates the quality of the wie, though surely this is just a gimmick. We're also told that the winery use different labels for the same wine, but for different world markets. Again. more marketing gimmick'ry.

Of course, tasted a few more wine here, including our first ever (we think) Malbec. Not sure if we could really taste the difference between this and other red wines. The Malbec vine is Argentinian, though initially it came from France but didn't suit the soil there as well as it did here. That said, we still weren't that fussed!

This tour was very informative and it was better that the English speakers in the group had their own guide.

Had hoped that, time permitting, we'd also be stopping at a chocolate factory. Instead, we were taken to a church which contained a 200 year old statue of the Virgin Mary, broughtover from Spain in 1666. Of course, Paul is very glad we came here rather than the chocolate factory.

We get dropped off back in town around 7ish and buzz about for a while before heading back to the apartment, and watch The Fantastic Four.

Wednesday 18th April

Oops, took it even easier this morning - caught up with some internet stuff, than a coffee at McDonalds.

Considered another half day winery tour, but the vineyards they are going to today aren't listed in our Top-20 magazine, so we don't bother and head off to another part of town to buy our bus tickets to Salta.

It's an overnight bus ride, so we've gone for 'cama', which gives us a bed of sorts, though not quite as good as the Premier Class, which gives a proper flat bed. We're travelling with Andesmar, who aren't the cheapest, but the service has been recommended several times.

Next, we head up to San Martin Parque, really enjoy the walk (20 minutes or less) through a fancy part of town, nice houses. The park is huge and we only walk around to the lake, where we see folk rowing.

We're really enjoying Mendoza more and more, it's a really smart place - wide, tree-lined streets, smart bars and restaurants, lots of cafes. Interesting to see people in suits on their mobiles, drinking coffee, and getting their shoes shined. All at the same time.

Anyway, back at the park, we sat on the short bank by the water and enjoyed the afternoon sun. Chris caught up on some diary, Paul had a snooze.

Late afternoon and we return to town via the Plaza. Nice Christine did some clothes washing at the apartment, then we stepped out for some food and to make another collect call to the credit card company. Not sure if I mentioned before, but to make a collect call from Argentina, dial the International Operator with '000' and select from the brief menus - not sure what the options are, but you'll get through to an English speaking operator, who will help with your Cordo Revertido.

Thursday 19th April

Our last day in Mendoza today, and we check out at 10am. Did consider paying 35 Pesos to keep the room until 6pm, but didn't bother in the end. Our bus to Salta is at 8.30pm.

Unfortunately we probably wasted the day today - Paul couldn't be bothered to get the local bus to Maipu and visit some vineyards on our own. On reflection, he's sorry we wasted the day and should have got his ass moving. Christine kicks herself for not going it alone.

Not the best weather today, but we head back to the Park again and enjoy some fresh air by the lake, though it got a little chilly so we walked around the lake watching some afternoon runners.

Thinking ahead, we had picked up some picnic food on the way. Whilst we were joined by a couple of dogs, they didn't seem interested in helping Paul eat his ham sandwiches. Felt very sorry for one little one who had an injury just above his eye, and was also suffering from the suds (a cold). Poor little thing had a crusty eyes and a dry crusty nose - he was sniffing away, but still managing to wag his tail. Hopefully we haven't caught anything from him...

Not a lot else happened today, and we returned to town to pick up our bags and head to the nearby bus station. The bus leaves on time, and we're motoring just after 8.30pm. This is our first ride on a double decker coach, and we're upstairs.

A pretty comfortable ride through the night, and the food we had for dinner was fine, including the wine! Slept okay, though not as good as the ride from Pucon to Mendoza - it seemed a little more noisy this time.

16 hours later, we arrive safely in Salta...but gutted that the route the bus took wasn't the '68', from Cafayate - the scenery would have been better.

to be continued on next thread...

Wednesday 11th April

Santiago, Chile

The journey is fine and the three of us get a fair bit of sleep, before pulling into the central bus station at about 7am. Strangely no movie last night, nor any meal, though we're given some breakfast - cheese and ham rolls, juice etc.

We hang around at the bus station whilst Theresa sorts her onward bus journey to Buenos Aires, another 24 hours away. Gulp. She is convenienty booked on the bus heading out at 10.15 am, so we hang around in the food court nearby and wait until after the bulk of rushhour before making our way into the city.

Goodbyes to Theresa, we've had a nice week with her - once again, we're grateful to be meeting so many good people. Theresa's help with her excellent Spanish has been most appreciated, though the three of us will remember her, on occasion (well, 1), misuse of both mathematics, and English. And she said 'bugger' a lot. Looking forward to meeting up again in London in the summer.....

The metro station is just a couple of minutes away and we're only a few stops from Universitad de Chile station. The metro is still busy, but is fine/cheap, and the journey soon over. A little daunted to be back in a big city and not yet having our bearings.

Went around the houses a bit to find our recommended hostel, though it's actually called Hotel Londres Plaza. A big place, though not sure if it's that busy. We get a double room with TV (not Cable) and view overlooking the cobbled courtyard outside. Breakfast is included and the shared bathroom is fine. A little more expensive than recently at 16,000Pesos (around GBP16).

After checking-in we shower and head out before nodding off. Glad that it's got warmer as we've headed north, though would welcome an extra couple of degrees - either way, it's tshirt weather.

First random observation is the number of blind people we have come across in the first 5 minutes of being out!

Head towards the Plaza de Armas - keeping an eye out for Starbucks, we're sure there's one around and would both enjoy a Frappucino right now.

Also very busy in the city centre - strange for mid morning during the week. We walk on towards the art gallery, Bellas Artes, but don't go in, and instead try and track down the Cerro (Hill) Santa Lucia - a 'rock' in the centre of town, some 70 metres high. Obviously originally a natural feature, though lots of manmade features, and a few buildings. A fortress at the top (that you can't get in), a small church, a huge stone gate, statues and garden features.

The views from the top not particularly impressive, what with the smog all around, blocking the view to the high hills that surround the city, which themselves are the main cause of the smog not escaping the city limits. Whilst the views not that superb, you get a feel for how spread out the city is, and how much of a tiny dent we'll make in it over the next 3 or 4 days.

On the way back to the hostel/hotel, we stop at the San Franciso church, which is actually at the top of our road. It's the oldest church in Santiago, dating from 1618. It's a very simple building, the walls just white-washed. The only really ornate part of the church is the ceiling, which wouldn't look out of place in a stately home.

In one corner of the church is an area that, in one sense, has been vandalised with graffiti, though this must be an accepted way of communicating with God or Jesus - many messages asking Jesus to guard over sons/daughters etc.

Also other messages of 'thanks' to San Francisco and also some curious words of remembrance in respect of deceased dogs. Extraordinary, but we'd be happy to see more of this sort of thing. "our Father, who barks in heaven....Scraps be thy name... ...give us this day our daily chew-stick... ...forgive us our daily poops...etc" I'll leave it there, lest a bolt of lightning strike me down.

For lunch we tried to trackdown Govinda's, an Indian/veggie place. Found it - found it had closed down. Never mind, there's a couple more veggie places in town, and we get a table in one (El Naturalista), though have to wait 10 minutes. Strange to see so many office folks taking lunch way into the middle of the afternoon.

The food is good here, and we're full for 10,000 Pesos, which is a little more than we'd spend for two, especially if no alcohol is involved.

There's a small cinema nearby, and it's 'cheap Wednesday', so pleased to get tickets to watch Spartan gore-epic '300', for GBP1.80 each. Smuggle in some sweets,despite the warning in Spanish that that sort of caper is not allowed.

Enjoy the film, though it's no comedy. Can certainly see the Frank Miller influence - similar use of bloody-ness, as seen in Sin City.

A little tired in the evening, so watch some Chilean telly before an early night. Looking forward to more exploring tomorrow, sooo much to see! Fingers tightly crossed for more blue skies.

Thursday 12th April

Today starts with a 'grande' thank you to my Aunty M who continues to print off our blog and post it through to my ma back at home. Our next cerveza will be 'cheers'd' to you, Aunty Margaret and Uncle John. Of course, we're also pleased that you're still reading about our little diary - sorry there's no pictures!

Whilst on the subject of thanks - cheers Jason for sorting out those muppets at British Gas, and to Piers for emailing the various threatening letters, when British Gas already knew we were out of the country, and ta Neil for letting us know that the Water Company had forced a water meter on you and sneakily fitted it whilst you guys were out. I'm sure a huge leak would have taken days/weeks to see to....

Also, big thanks to Gav for keeping the car ticking over for the last 9 months - I trust that you haven't been doing any wheelspins in my absence!

Of course, closer to home, thanks Ma, for sorting out a whole bunch of stuff, sorry I was blasphemous a little earlier regarding a re-write of the Lord's Prayer. Only three months to go before we're back, and can't wait to see you. Also, Julie, grateful for everything you have done whilst we have been away.

Sorry, that's not an exhaustive list - if you're not mentioned, we do still love you.

Right, back to the trip and, yes, it's a blue sky day.

Breakfast at 8.20am, and after we head straight for the Palacio de la Moneda (built 1805, and restored after the coup in 1973), or 'The Presidential Palace. Watched the ceremonial changing of the guard at 10am (it happens every other day). After the brief change we follow on into the courtyard, though little to see - a couple of old cannons and some stone sculptures. Chris had her picture taken with one of the friendly guards, who, whilst looking quite senior, indicated for Chris to link arms with him.

Thankkfully the guard laughed at Paul's attempt at humour in Spanish - 'Senor, por favor, no tocar...'

On a small mission of our own today - we know there's a few Starbucks in town, though the website doesn't help with directions. No luck trying to find the nearest one, but the walk does lead us to the Palacio Cousino - a large mansion in French Rococo style. Not quite sure what Rococo style actually is, though it's a nice building on the outside.

Dating from 1871, and taking 7 years to build, by Luis and Isadora Cousino (millionaires who made their money from silver mining and wine). The palace amazed Santiago society with it's ultra-modern touches - it has it's own electricity generator and the first lift in the country.

Sadly Luis died from TB at 38, and before the palace was finished. His wife completed the building and lived there, never re-marrying, with her 6 children.

The Palace was bought by the Mayor on the 1940's at a reduced price and it is still used for official receptions. Many dignatories have stayed there, though the only one we can remember is Eisenhower. Sorry!

Queen Elizabeth II was due to stay there in the 60's, but 2 weeks before she was due, a fire destroyed the second floor. Whilst a restoration took place, the municipalidad could only afford to to use pine, rather than mahogany.

The palace is stunning, and the detail amazing. Handmade drapes in each room, tapestries, fantastic artworks. Also chandeliers, including one with 3,000 pieces of crystal, that are individually hand cleaned 3 times a year. All of the furniture was imported from France or Italy, and the main staircase is constructed from 20 different types of marble.

The family monogram can be seen on the curtainsrails, mirrors and doors.

Sweet to see the 'indiscretos' - chairs with three individual seats connected in a circle, designed to accomodate a courting couple and a chaperone.

Well worth waiting the 20 minutes for a tour of the house with an English-speaking guide. It cost 2000Pesos each for entrance, including the tour, and also including some fancy slippers to wear over your outdoor shoes. It felt like we were on a ward.

Later in the aftrnoon we made our way on the metro out to El Golf station, where we think there's a Starbucks. Yep, there is, and we enjoy a Frappucino.

From here we walk out to the nearby (though a 30 minute walk) shopping mall, and did a little light shopping. Managed to find an Apple shop and bought a camera connector, (so to use the Ipod to store photos as a back up). Annoyingly it doesn't work, though it's compatible with both the Ipod and the camera (Canon 350D) - looks lie the Ipod software needs updating. Bugger!

Walked back to the metro, though this time we walk past the Military school. Nothing going on this afternoon, though there's a nice clear view of the mountains that surround Santiago, even though the ever-present smog is there.

Vegetarian dinner, again(!), at El Naturalista - great food again.

After, we pop along, on the offchance, to see if Exodus Kim is at her hotel - conveniently she's in the lobby when we arrive.

Aree to head out to the Bellavista area, just a few minutes away in a taxi, with Kim and Rebecca, who is a leader on another truck.

We find a quiet bar and enjoy some wine and Caiprinha's whilst being entertained by a singer/guitarist. Feel a little awkward that he's not getting our full attention, especially when there's only two others in the whole place. Of course, we clap inbetween numbers - he's actually very good.

Found a second bar where we had some late night nachos. Kim had a steak sandwich, and employed the 3-second rule when she dropped it on the floor.

Back in Kim's hotel room, we try to fix her laptop, and fail.

Walking back to our hostel we are accompanied by a friendly dawg, though we try and shake him to saves his disappointment when he's not allowed into our room. He follows us anyway.

Pleased that there was someone to let us in at 3am, though not the dog.

Friday 13th April

Wake up hungover, and likely to miss breakfast, though luckily there's a few bits and pieces left for us.

Walked out to Parque Metropolitano and climbed up San Cristobal, enjoying views of the spread-out city. A bit of a climb, especially in the heat (though not complaining) - 300 metres up, in total. We would have jumped on the funicular railway, but forgot to get any money out before we left.

Sat at the top under the statue of the Virgin Mary, and enjoyed the slightly smoggy view for a while, before making our way back down to Bellavista.

Both got a bit grumpy walking around, not sure where to eat, but eventually found a place, and ate well, and cheaply.

Took a few photos around town - there's a lot of murals/graffiti on the houses - some actually looks quite good.

Walking back towards town we pass the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (a fine-arts gallery), and decide to go in this afternoon. Not the best selection of exhibits, though the building itself is interesting, with it's 'neo-classical architecture. Was cheap anyway, at 600 Pesos.

Not much happening in the evening - Chris still hungover. Watched CSI in Spanish.

Saturday 14th April

Up late this morning - seem to be sleeping to much, but always good to make the most of it.

Made a couple of calls home today, nice to catch up, but always a pain to find out that there's another problem with an old bill. This time, and now 9 months after we told them we were leaving the country, Harrow Council suggest that we owe them.

Next, went on to the Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino - where there's impressive objects from the pre-colombian cultures of Central America and the Andean region. Most of the objects were in excellent condition - few cracks, bright colours and clear designs. The age of the objects went back to over 500BC, or 500AC as they say here (Antes Christo). A lot of the objects were buried with the dead, so perhaps this explains the reason for their preservation.

Interesting to learn that some of the cultures skinned their dead and placed the bones in urns.

Also, learnt about 'vomit sticks' - sticks that shamen would put down their throats to cleanse their stomachs.

Paul left Christine to go around the museum a second time, at her pace, and sneaked off for a crafty (but tasty) Burger King.

We're heading out of town tomorrow, so organise our bus ticket back at the central station. Not sure if we paid slightly over the odds - 10,000Pesos (initially quoted 15000Pesos) each for the 6/7 hours to Mendoza, across the border in Argentina. We seem to have paid a small commission to a couple of guys that lead us to one of the many companies selling tickets.

A little wary as we hand over the money...

Back on the metro we go along to another fancy part of town, Providencia, though seems like it's not that busy at the weekend - perhaps just busy in the week with the office workers. Pleased to come across another Starbucks - we'll probably not find another until we get to Peru....

The area doesn't seem that great, so we don't hang around and walk back towards home, via Parque Balmaceda, which is a narrow park area, but straddled by busy roads.

Walked to a grotty part of town to get to Iglesia (church) de Los Sacramentinos. The guidebook describes it as a 'gothic church, loosely designed in imitation of the Sacre Coeur in Paris. Hmm. don't know about that, but the inside is impressive - large dome, balconies, and pretty stained-glass windows. Strange that the outside makes it look quite derelict.

After a food court dinner, we went to the cinema to watch disappointing Ghost Rider. Walked back through the pedestrian area to see lots of folk selling all manner of crap at the side of the pavement, and various street performers. Felt just a tiny bit uneasy walking back through the crowds, but got back perfectly safely to our room.

Sunday 15th April

Travelling across the border to Mendoza, Argentina, today, so up quite early to pack and make our way to the bus station for 10am.

continues on next thread...