Jul 2006

Out of Tingri next day, for the travelling comfort of a Landcruiser and an off-road excursion to Base Camp.

Fantastic landscape along the way, as well as the usual sight of nomadic Tibetans, and their bright white teeth, tucked behind wide smiles. The climate conditions don't seem to do a lot for the complexion, their skin seemingly leather-like.

Through green valleys, rocky valleys and streams we make our way towards the Rongphu Monastery (4980 metres, highest in the world), though one of the vehicles had a puncture on the way up.

Across from the monastery is where you pick up the pony and cart to take you the final 8 kilometres to Base Camp. Poor little ponies - the nasty man made our convoy take a steeper shortcut and the little pony hooves were slipping. Little Chris got a bit upset.

It would have been nice to have walked that final track, but was quite a bit uphill and it was something of a struggle to walk 100 yards!

Unfortunately the weather conditions not great, and the view of 'Big E' was masked by cloud - it should be in full view all the way up to Base Camp.

Base Camp (5200 metres) is a curious collection of tea houses (where the sofas double up as bedding for the night), with the obligatory sale of souvenir items. Even more curious is that there is a mobile signal up there!

Fact - Base Camp was first used/set up by the British Everest expedition in 1924. Souvenirs were not available at that time, nor was mobile phone coverage.

We spent most of the day taking it easy and eating chocolate and drinking tea - unfortunately, the clouds failed to clear, though you could see a bit of Everest.

With just one night's stay at Camp, fingers were firmly crossed for a view the next morning - I guess prayers must work, as we were treated to a fantastic early morning view of the North Face, though we were teased whilst the low mist cleared and the sun popped up.

Really was an amazing scene to be standing 'just' 3500-odd metres from the top of the world - our breath was quite literally taken away!

Sadly, time was against us and our pony train took us back to the Monastery, but we enjoyed the view of Everest all the way back down the valley.

Fact - British Leyland produced a van called a 'Sherpa' - coincidentally, Sherpa's are also the folks who live on/around Mount Everest, and have played a key role in all Everest accents. There is no record of a Sherpa van ascending Everest.

Paul and Chris, and the little ponies

After meeting our travelling buddies for the next 4 weeks last night, we seem to have a good group and should get on just fine. Curiously, only 10 on the trip, plus 2 drivers/guides (women drivers!), whereas the trip caters for up to 22.

With our stuff all packed away in underseat lockers, we get on the road, making our way out of town - great scenery, and the foul air of the city fading away, though toilet standards as grim as ever. Maybe the facemasks aren't for the city pollution after all...

The first day sees us arrive at something of an oasis - The Last Resort, an out of town haven, both for peace as well as something more adventurous. First impressions for Paul were 'oh my god' as the entry into the resort was across a Jacob's Ladder, with a huge drop, from where you can bungy. Apparently, this is a higher drop than the highest in New Zealand(??) - either way, not fun to cross in the rain.

That said, it was a nice, peaceful, place to stay overnight, and Paul enjoyed an hour or so, full body (back and front - not the middle bit) massage. We both passed up the opportunity to scale down waterfalls in a wetsuit - 'canyoning'.

Next day, making our way to the China (Tibet in truth) border. Fantastic scenery along the way - huge walls of mountain either side, with the numerous waterfalls only enhancing the view - or at least taking your mind off the sheer drops just a couple of feet to the right.

Altitude begins to play a part in our daily routine from here, with warnings that we'd need to drink plently, and do very little in order to acclimatise.

Lots of fun at the border - though not too much to worry about getting out of Nepal. This was our first taste of Chinese red-tape - and to cut a long story short, 29 hours later, we were allowed through. Thanks, China! Seemingly our guide (groups need to be guided through the country) was not going to meet us until the next day, with the necessary travel permit. One grim hotel night later (damp/smelly) enhanced by Snickers and Mars, we finally got away the next afternoon... As we entered China, we were subjected to a short questionnaire, but shocked to have a 'laser-gun type thing' pointed at our heads. Thankfully nothing more than an external thermometer - I'm sure the experience could have been made a lot more personal, and intrusive!

Back on the (bumpy) road, to Nyalam - all recollection of truck/travel now coming back - and we wind our way up to 3750 metres, and the altitude effects start to take their toll on some of the group - and, it's bloody cold up here! Thanks to the people of Kathmandu for making nice warm hooded jumpers!

From Nyalam, we moved onward for our first night camping and the sight of Yaks and multi-coloured prayer flags (a Tibetan speciality). Oh for a 4-season sleeping bag! Almost forgot, tonight our first experience of being a goldfish in a bowl - a goat-herder stood transfixed as we laid out our cooking gear and tents - at least he enjoyed some of our leftovers. Fact - Yaks can't live at less than 3000 metres.

Now up at 4300 metres as we get to Tingri, though after crossing a mountain pass at 5100 metres. To quote Lonely Planet, Tingri is 'a photogenic huddle of Tibetan homes that overlook a sweeping plain, bordered by towering Himalayan peaks' - which is about right, though I'd add that this town is just short of one Clint Eastwood - very Wild-west-like. Chris not very well here, with a little bit of sick. Our room nice and bright, with full-on Snoopy motif.

One strange thing we're experiencing is that, despite the cold at altitude, the sun is very strong - I guess like it is for the skiers out there. Next stop, Mount Everest!

Paul and Chris

Spent a day in Durbar Square, which is crammed full of buildings, whether temples, souvenir shops, toilets etc. We saw our first 'living goddess' - a female youth, chosen to continue the role until puberty. Briefly, she needs to undergo 32 strict physical requirements and various ordeals, such as spending time alone in a room in the dark with scary noises, or surrounded by sacrificed animals. She still seems to be smiling though, just...

Definitely was worth the couple 'o quid to get a guide to explain more about the history of the temples, as well as religious info, though sadly we seem to have forgotten most of that - sorry, too much to take in.

Just next to the Square is, what is now known as 'Freak Street', which is a 60's throwback to the days of a visit by The Beatles. Apparently, they took some drugs there, allegedly, and there's still too many hippies hanging around, man.

Also, took a trip out to the Monkey Temple, but made the initial first mistake of arriving whilst chomping on a banana. Our carrier bag of edible goodies was soon snatched, but soon retrieved, less the bananas. The temple quite interesting, and good views of the Kathmandu Valley, out to the airport. Of course, like lots of other tourist-y areas, we weren't short of offers to buy all manner of crap.

Our last temple stop in Kathmandu was Pashupatinath - a mecca of sorts, where the most curious (for us) of things happens - open air cremations, operating 24/7. Despite the 'corpses' being shrouded in cloth, and with various bits and bobs placed in their mouths (gold and combustibles - the soul takes flight out of the mouth), we did manage to see a smouldering foot and arm. Sorry to be flippant, but was a very interesting experience - again, given depth with the help of a local guide. As well as the macabre, there was also much Kama Sutra action on show in the form of carvings adorning the temple roofs.

The last part of our time in Nepal was to meet up with our travelling companions for our overland trip for the next 4 weeks......

Paul and Chris

19th July - up bright and early after a late night to bed doing the last few things at home (I wish we'd packed our house up weeks ago!).

Realised that my rucksack wasn't going to carry as much as I thought, but have managed to squeeze in all the essentials.

The flight out to Bahrain uneventful, though an hour or so delayed and after several hours wait in Bahrain we took the overnight flight with Gulf Air to Kathmandu. I regret, no seat-back TV's on that leg of the journey but the in-flight mag was, er, interesting.

Got to our hotel (Hotel Ganesh Himal) in time for breakfast (a Coke) then spent most of the rest of the day asleep. The hotel is fine - and in a quiet location - so a nice change from the madness of the surrounding streets. Seems to be just us and another guy staying here, though it is low season.

The streets round here are a constant symphony of cars, bikes, goats and horns, with added fumes and smoke for atmosphere. The lack of space to get around doesn't seem to trouble people and there's no sign of road rage at all, though use of the horn could be some way to let off steam.

People here very friendly and we feel safe, despite the troubles here just a couple of months ago, when travelling here was a no-go. It has been interesting to hear first hand how things have been here over the last couple of years - very tough.

We've yet to see outside of the Kathmandu Valley - inside tends to revolve around places of worship, though we've yet to explore in great detail. The view from the Monkey Temple seems to be the best view around here.

We've picked up on at least 7 new smells since we arrived. but one of those may have been me.

Considering the weather forecast was for days and days of thunder showers, we've yet to see that, though had a little rain. Not too hot, similar to the current heatwave in the UK.

Meeting with the group with whom we travel through China tomorrow - please, please, please let them be cool!, then we leave Kathmandu on Tuesday for the next part of the trip.

Have mostly been playing Bomberman and Trauma Center on the Nintendo.

Have mostly been listening to Queens of the Stone Age and Aphex Twin.

No dodgy stomach yet, though Chris had a little bit of sick at the side of the road yesterday - she's fine now, just a little excited I guess.

Must get going now, for a Gaylord Ice Cream - sorry, just had to mention it.

Paul xx

This is just a little note to thank our family, friends, neighbours, colleagues and employers for all the good wishes and acts of kindness as we prepare to jet away - we couldn't have done this without you, though I will add that this trip (and my life in general) revolves around just one person, and you should all know who that is - thanks Chris! Umm, sorry mum, but you'll understand.

I promise, no more sentimentality, not from me at least.

Hey, and for this entry, you can keep your comments to yourself!

Paul xx

Okay, here's pretty much what we'll be doing for the next year - please note that there's nothing at all humourous to read here

Leave home on Wednesday 19th July 2006 and arrive Kathmandu (via Bahrain) on Thursday 20th July at 06.45.

Leave Kathmandu on 25th July 2006 and overland to Beijing (Tibet, Xian, Beijing trip with Exodus) and arrive on 22nd August 2006 (2 days in Beijing after trip).

Leave Beijing on 25th August at 07.50 and arrive Hong Kong at 11.20 (3 days)

Leave Hong Kong on 29th August at 14.15 and arrive Bangkok, Thailand at 18.15 - travel overland to Cambodia (perhaps Laos) and back to Bangkok - leave Bangkok on 6th October 2006 and arrive in Perth, Australia at 00.30 on 7th October 2006 9 via Singapore where we meet up with my mum).

On 14th October 2006 at 1025 fly from Perth to Ayers Rock - arrive 14.10.

Overland from Ayers Rock via Adelaide, Melbourne and Canberra to Sydney - leave Sydney on 8th November 2006 at 09.25 and arrive Christchurch, New Zealand at 14.20. Say goodbye to my mum on the 9th November 2006 (she is touring New Zealand for 15 days on an organised tour).

Overland to Auckland and leave on 20th December 2006 and arrive Papeete, Tahiti (arrives at 20.35 on the 19th December!!!). Travel to Mo'orea and celebate Christmas there.

Leave Papeete, Tahiti on 28th December 2006 at 01.00 and arrive Easter Island at 11.15 (Celebrate New Year in Easter Island)

Leave Easter Island on 3rd January 2007 at 13.10 and arrive Santiago, Chile at 19.55

Leave Santiago on the 4th January 2007 at 16.10 and arrive Quito, Ecuador at 20.50 where we meet up with my sister - stay in Quito until the 6th January 2007 and then fly to Galapagos and tour the Islands on a boat for 7 days - return to Quito and fly to Buenos Aires, Argentina via Lima (Peru) and arrive on the 17th January 2007.

Overland to Uruguay and return to Buenos Aires, Argentina on the 28th January 2007 and say goodbye to my sister who flies home.

Start our overland organised trip (Exodus again) from Buenos Aires to Rio de Janeiro, Brazil on the 30th January 2007.

Arrive Rio de Janeiro for the Carnival on the 16th February 2007 and party until the 21st February 2007.

Fly or overland to Ushuaia, Argentina and then overland through Chile, Northern Argentina, Bolivia, Peru to Ecuador.

Leave Quito, Ecuador on the 18th July 2007 and arrive home on the 19th in time for tea.

I guess the trip starts with some of the final preparation, which reminds me, I must get my bikini line waxed. I think Chris has already had hers done. Ouch.

I'm starting this on the night before my last day at work with Ladbrokes, well, last day for the time being and before I'm due back on 31st July 2007, 9am. I'll worry about that another time.

Still loads to do before we're off, but no doubt it'll all fall into place. I'll keep fingers crossed in the meantime...and I hope the nice people at the Thai Embassy don't misplace our passports over the weekend...

PS. This 'blog' thing will hopefully become a little more interesting/entertaining going forward - please stick with it, please...