Jun 2007

Friday 18th May continued..

Puno, Peru

The journey from Copacabana through the border (easy and quick) and to Puno was pleasant enough, though we arrive to clouds and a little bit of cold.

Pleased to see an (Globalnet, or something like it) ATM at the bus terminal, though, beware, it'll charge you for the privilege of using it, 4 Soles. Annoying when it doesn't tell you it's going to charge you, and you only take out 20 Soles.

A few minutes away in a taxi we arrive at the conveniently-close-to-the-centre Los Pinos Inn, which seems basic but fine. No cable TV unfortunately, and intermittent warm/hot water - still, clean and cheap enough.

Had a walk around town, quite a busy little place and a few tourists here and there. Looked around the 2 main plazas, and along the pedestrian street, where there's an element of hassle from the restaurants wanting you to eat at their place, and the ever-present shoeshine boys.

Took out a little more money from another bank and got charged again, GRRRRRR, without warning. Finally used a BCP machine and, no charge. Phew, BCP from now on. (Scotiabank are also okay, no charges at source).

Had a nice meal just off the pedestrian street, went for the set menu and scored a bargain 3 course for less than 2 quid. Still, does look as though it'll be costing us a bit more than what we were paying for things in Bolivia.

Main reason for coming to Puno is to get out onto the Lake Islands, so we'll be geting a boat first thing tomorrow. Also found an agency to sell us the Inca Bus ticket, which is a tourist bus that will take us from here to Cusco on Monday, stopping at a few (Inca) sites along the way - quite pricey at USD25, when a 'normal' bus would probably cost 25 Soles, or less....

Found a coffee shop in one of the backstreets and enjoyed some CAKE, we love the CAKE.

Slept 'okay' on the firm beds, ahead of the earliest start in a while - breakfast at 6.30.

Saturday 19th May

It's Paul's birthday tomorrow, and he's getting excited about what surprises he might have in store. Considering the lengths he went to to celebrate Christine's back in October (one birthday card, with sincere words of love included (self-penned), together with 5 Australian Dollars ('go on, treat yourself...') and a petrol
voucher (save $0.05 per litre - she didn't even use it!)) - he has a LOT to be excited about.

Anyway, back to today - it seems to early to get up, but we manage it and, despite it being cold in the breakfast room, it's a nice spread, and we enjoy the scrambled eggs.

The effcient staff sort out a taxi for us and we're ready to go down to the port to negotiate our way on to a boat out to the islands.

There's a bunch of folks trying to get you on their boat, but we stick with one guy and all seems okay. 35 Soles for a return trip out to Taquile Island, via the FloatingIslands (Islas Flotantes), and we get a guide thrown in. It's usually a day trip, giving you a couple of hours (with all the other tourists who arrive at the same time) on Taquile Island, but we'll be staying over, and can catch the same boat back tomorrow - no extra cost.

So, first stop for this sllooooow boat are the Floating Islands/Reed Islands, the home of the Uros people. Built using Totota Reeds, that grow in the shallows of Lake Titicaca.

The islands came about as a result of the Uros people wanting to isolate themselves from the aggressive Collas and the Incas. Strange feeling to step onto the island - a little bouncy - and we're greeted by some locals, though you can already feel the absolutely tourist nature of the visit, though we are sure that the other islands would be occupied in the same way as this 'show home'.

We notice that none of the women are going hungry, but wonder how they get to such a size - perhaps it's Pringles.

Had a talk about daily life from our well-informed guide, and then some free time to walk around the small reed island, and totake up the opportunity to buy some souvenirs.

The islands are generally fixed into a permanent position, though can be untethered and 'sailed' elsewhere - not sure how they are conbtrolled, some of them are really quite big!

We're offered alternative transport to the next reed island (we're seeing 2 today) - on a large canoe made from reeds. We're also treated to a handful of songs from a young girl who comes along for the ride. It's now clear why they wear the bowler hats - very good for collecting tips. Again, quite a touristy experience, though have to admit that it's quite a unique opportunity.

The other island is more of the same thing, though there's a small trout hatchery on this one, as well as a museum, which houses some day to objects, and a stuffed fox-thing.

After just 15 minutes here, we're back on board to 'proper' boat for the journey to Taquile Island. Whilst the views of the lake of very nice, the journey drags a little - another 3 hours or more. Chris takes in the views from the top deck, but Paul happy to stay in doors and to snooze.

Pleased to finally get to Taquile and moor up. Even more pleased to take up the opportunity to buy a Snickers when we docked, before the 40 minute walk up and across the island to the main square.

Taquile has been inhabited for thousands of years - Pukara once inhabited 2500BC - and is located 35 kms east of Puno, about 7 sq kms in size, with about 2000 inhabitants (400 families).

We walked to the main square - similar scenery to Islas del Sol - and very cool to see everyone is traditional dress and with knitting needles in hand, even the men. Taquile is known for its textiles.

The men are wearing the traditional woolen hats (like floppy nightcaps) - if they are married, the hats are all red, and a mixture of red and white if they are 'available'. A hard black hat is a symbol of authority. The men wear a white sheepwool shirt, with a large safety pin under the chin, a black and white waistcoat, a thick waistband (usually with a multicoloured coca bag attached), black trousers and sandals.

The women (all ages) wear multilayered skirts but more noticeable is their black shawl that protects them from the sun.

For once, the men seemed more interesting to look at than the women, especially the men of authority, who gathered near the church, obviously to discuss important island matters(!).

We stayed in the square for a while, and then walked to the other side of the island for a surprisingly good lunch.

As we are staying over, we ae introduced to a man and wife whose house we'll be staying at. It's pretty basic, and no washing facilities - the outside toilet isn't the prettiest site we have seen this trip.

Once we had dumped off our bage, we headed back to the main square, but this time no other tourists around, so very peaceful and nice to see the locals going about their business. Some children, including girls selling wristbands, sat with us and we managed to communicate in a very basic way, including by way of fart noise.

The group around us grew over the afternoon and they asked us to take pictures of them, pulling various faces.

After, we walked up to the Moon Temple, a simple collection of stones, and then further across the island to a great lookout point over the lake. Very calming to sit and watch.

Dinner at our accomodation was again surprisingly good, though very basic, and our first candlelit dinner in a while. One of the other guys on the trip, Matt from Milton Keynes, stayed over to and we had dinner together.

Not much in the way of nightlife on the island, so in bed quite early.

Really glad we stayed on the island, with the place pretty much to ourselves.

Sunday 20th May

Whoopee, Paul's birthday, and he looks good for 30something.

Didn't sleep too well last night, not the most comfortable bed, squeaking at the slightest movement. Breakfast was a treat though, with the first pancakes we've had in a while.

Spent the morning around the square, saw the place change from tranquility to chaos when all the morning tourists arrived. Thought we had found ourselves a quiet spot until a group decided to sit right around us, when the was plenty of space elsewhere. Slowly losing patience with other tourists...

Paul was happy to enjoy the sun in the square, and Chris took herself off to the highest point on the island and enjoyed the views and peace and quiet.

Wanted to make sure we got on the 12pm boat heading back, so got to the port a little early. Pleased that we arrived on the island at the other end, where there's a gradual slope to the main square - on this side there's 500 big steps to climb.

For some reason we left later than scheduled, but pleased to be on the boat and heading back to Puno. This time we both sat on top of the boat - they don't usually let you do this as a couple of tourists recently fell off.

A couple of hours in to the journey and the engine cuts out, and there seems to be a problem getting it going again, though after 15 minuted we're cruising (slowly) again, and heading back toward sthe reed island area.

Spot of luck on the way back and there's a minibus waiting to drop us off at the hotel, though we're the last to be dropped off.

Bit of panic when we're back at the hotel and there's no reservation for us, though thankfully we're sorted and have a bed for the night.

Before dinner we fancy some cake so return to the nice cafe, before a spot of internet.

For dinner we went to a great chinese restaurant - good portions and the first sweet and sour sauce in months.

Glad that we stayed over on Taquile Island - Paul not that interested initially, but a very warming experience.

A quiet birthday, but different, and totally memorable.

Early night, shattered, and another early start tomorrow for the trip to Cuzco.

continues on next thread...

Tuesday 15th May

Copacabana, Bolivia

We were due to be picked up at 8am, though this turns out to be someone coming to our hotel and us walking halfway back across town to where the bus is. In the usual way, not a big deal, but Paul is struggling with his arm and the altitude sucks the rest of what energy he has left.

Anyway, we get to the bus and head out of town just a few minutes late, and pick up the last few passengers from their hotels.

The bus takes the same route out as the other day when Chris went to Tiwanaku (through El Alto), but we feel there's something not quite right with one of the wheels.

There's no grinding or sparks, but we keep stopping and the driver takes a quizzical look.

We're soon heading across the plateau and there's great views of the distant snowcapped mountains - it's lovely to see Lake Titicaca for the first time, though we don't quite yet get to see how huge it actually is.

Probably just over half way through the journey and we need to disembark to get on a small passenger boat to take us across a narrow stretch of water. The bus goes on a flat ferry, and it doesn't look too safe, but at least the water is calm today.

Fact fans - Lake Titicaca is something of a whopper - over 230kms long, 97kms wide. At 3820 metres above sea level, it's one of the highest navigable lakes in the world. Also, it's a remnant of the ancient inland sea, known asLago Ballivian, which covered much of the altiplano before the water level fell due to faults in the ground.

On the other side and we need to show our passports. Must have been something not quite right with a Swiss guys paperwork and he doesn't get back on the bus. We double check how long we've been in the country and, phew, have some days to spare though the stamp in Paul's passport initially suggests that I've been here for 2 months, but lucky it's just a small smudge on the date stamp.

Arriving in Copacabana, we are dropped by the main square and it looks like a small place to navigate to find our accomodation - we're hoping to stay at the recommended (nice views over the lake etc).

Despite the small size of the place, we still manage to get a little lost (even with a map) - also lost is Paul's sense of humour.

Anyway, not long before we decifer the map in the Lonely Planet 'guide' and we're at La Cupula, and safely in our lovely room.

After settling in, we set of for a wander around the town and it's nice to see little traffic, and therefore no lung fulls of grubby emissions.

Had a cheap set meal in town (always much cheaper than ordering the individual items) - enjoyed the food though you can keep the reggae.

Quite a few 'hippy-travellers' selling their crap in the main street - they should find time to have a wash every so often.

Altitude hits us again (we're at 3800 metres) as we walk back (slowly) towards the hostel, but our minds are taken off this when we find some little piggies in a small yard near our place. Ahh, very cute, and not as dirty or smelly as the hippies we saw earlier.

Paul had a snooze, while Chris chatted with some folks in the TV room. Enjoying ourselves at La Cupala - always nice to feel relaxed in a place.

ZZZZzzzzz.

Wednesday 16th May

Breakfast not included at the hostel, so no rush to get up this morning - walked into town and had a bargain noshup.

One thing on the agenda today is to, possibly, take out Paul's stitches. We might do it ourselves, Susan said it would be easy.....

Back in the room we rummage through the medical kit for a few bits and pieces, including some things that Dan and Michelle kindly gave us back in China.

Off comes the bandage, so far so good, and then the gauze is slowlypeeled back, taking a few arm hairs with it.

Hmm, not a bad wound if I do say so myself - all looks good, little blood and no yellow stuff oozing out.

The stitches look neat, though we're not sure where to start in taking them out, so we bandage it back up again, and think about checking out the local hospital instead. Of course, we're in a small place, so not sure what to expect there...

The hospital is just a few minutes walk out of town and when we arrive we're able to convey what has happened and what we're looking for today.

As in La Paz, we're seen straightaway and the Doctor sees no problems with the cut and the stitches can come out.

30 seconds later, they're all out, and there's no tears from the brave soldier!

Relieved, we pay a little bit for the treatment and leave a little as a contribution for the small hospital. The nurse seemed really pleased, so we're not sure if she thought the tip was for her...

Back in town and we sit in the sun in the square, and Chris goes off into the cathedral for a look around. Apparently the cathedral is of a Moorish style, built between 1605 and 1820. The outside is very impressive, though the inside very plain.

Around the side and into the Capilla de Velas (Candle Chapel) - very surprised by the chapel, it's a narrow dark arched sepulchre with trough like things on which candles are placed and the wax cakes the wall and floor.

At the end is the 'famous' wooden statue of La Virgen de Copacaban - surprised by the darkness and plainness. Thick dark stones in contrast to the brilliant white of the cathedral walls.

Noticed the stalls outside selling miniature cars - a local tradition is the blessing of the 'toy' cars in the hope that the real thing will be obtained in the coming year. Also saw 2 cars by the cathedral gates, one of which was decorated with the Virgin Mary - automobiles are blessed daily!

Took a break back at La Cupula, Chris caught up with the diary, Paul picked at his scabby elbow.

For sunset we walked up Cerro Calvaio, was a bit of an effort up the huge stone steps but nice views from the top despite the skyful of clouds. Great wide views out over Lake Titicace - would be a beautiful spot to hang out beneath clear blue skies. Also got a first sighting of Isla del Sol from up here.

Walked back via the town and had a bite to eat - Chris got her ticket for a trip to Isla del Sol. Paul not going.

Thursday 17th May

Up early for Chris's trip out on the Lake - down at the harbour by 8.15.

Chris met with a couple of English folks, Jess and Steve, and ended up spending the day with them on the Isla del Sol.

Isla del Sol is apparently the legendary birthplace of Manco Copac (Son of the Sun God, Inti) and his sister-wife (umm, I'm typing up Christine's notes, and not sure what a sister-wife is - maybe people from the Norfolk area know more about that sort of thing) Mama Huqca.

The boat ride across the lake is incredibly slow and they arrived, finally, at 10.45, reaching the village of Cha'llapampa.

Very pleasantly surprised to come across a fiesta (party) in the main square, outside the small church. The women were either dressed in pink or blue and the men wore different costumes - some with black masks that had pipes sticking out.

First the congregation came out of the church and it seemed as if eash corner of the square was blessed.

A statue (possibly a saint) was carried and at each corner a prayer was said. Afterwards the band played and fireworks set off, though more for noise than any kind of pretty display.

It was hilarious watching little kids hold a pole on which a catherine-wheel contraption was attached - once the fireworks were lit the children would cower underneath and cover their ears.

Chris and Jess happened to notice that one of the fireworks was facing outward rather than upward, so they hid behind some sweet old ladies, and a fellow traveller who obviously hadn't noticed the accident waiting to happen. It says 'very funny' at the end of the sentence Chris has written. That's not very nice, is it - poor little old ladies, on fire.

They watched the dancing for 30 mins or so - great costumes, but the repetitive dance tune soon got to them.

The fiesta really made the day, and they had to drag themselves away as the walk across the island would take about 3 hours and they didn't want to miss the boat home. First, they popped into the small museum in which there are artefacts from underwater excavations in Lake Titicaca at the north of the island. Fascinating that buildings and artefacts and being found in the Lake - why/who???

We quickly visited the Inca ruins (Chincana), which is the site of the sacred rock where the Inca creation legend began. We then took the central trail all the way to Yumani village in the north.

The Island is very dry, Mediterranean-like - good views of Lake Titicaca.

With best feet forward we were making good time and stopped for a drink in Yumani, before getting the slow boat back to Copacabana.

A little embarrassment on the way back - Chris needing to do a peepee. To cut a long story short, the bucket used to scoop water out of the boat found a second function, and together with a large blanket, a makeshift loo was put together. Shameful, but very necessary.

The remaining 2 hours of the trip were a lot more comfortable.

Back at La Cupula, Chris finds Paul still in bed and he's pleased to meet Steve and Jess - shame, they're heading south and the opposite direction to us.

Had dinner at the hostel, quite expensive, but good stuff.

Paul pleased for the rest today, and the arm is feeling okay. Can't bend it much though, but that's probably a bit of fear too.

Found out today that work have agreed an extension to our leave - back in the office on 20th August. Yessssss.

Friday 18th May

Travelling day today, though not til lunchtime.

Did some emails in town in the morning - Chris also looking to extend leave until the same as Paul. Hopefully will be okay, though sounds like they'd have her back weeks sooner.

Also spent some time looking into getting married in Ecuador towards the end of the trip - would be a great way to finish up the trip, though sounds like there's a few hurdles in the way (paperwork wise). We'll see what happens.......

In the warm late morning afternoon sun (and not much chilly wind today) we had a nice walk around the length of the bay in Copacabana, had a nice chat.

Picked up some snacks on the way back and sat on the deckchairs at the hostel, looking out over the bay. Would be a lovely place to relax on a nice warm day - there's hammocks here too, though we didn't get to use them.

So, after some Pringles (Cheese) and Snickers we get our bus at 12.30, which will be taking us to the second stop on Lake Titicace, Puno, though we'll have crossed the border into Peru.

Enjoyed our time in Copacabana very much, though a shame that Paul wasn't up to doing too much as his arm heals up. In fact, shame that we didn't get here sooner and out of La Paz sooner - would have been a good place to catch up with ourselves. Not a huge amount going on here, though perhaps that would be the whole point.

Bye bye Bolivia, we've had a great time and are sorry to go. Perhaps the country highlight of South America so far...... (and it's cheap, and the food has been excellent, especially veggie choice)

continues on next thread...