May 2007

Sunday 6th May

La, Paz, Bolivia

Again, grateful not to have been kicked off the bus last night, and the 12 hours or so bus ride hasn't been too bad. Glad we went 'semi-cama', though the space for Paul was a little tight with the person in front doing the full-recline.

Also, glad to be here safely, we're a little less sure about the roads in Bolivia.

Quite an amazing sight to se La Paz at first light, the bus making it's way down into the huge 'bowl' in which La Paz is cradled. Overwhelmingly, the orange brick colour of the houses/shacks/business premises lights up brightly from the sun, all of the buildings sticking to the sides of the bowl.

We're dropped at the main bus terminal in the capital and, first things first, need to use the facilities, before grabbing a taxi to the nearby street where there's a clutch of accommodation. We haven't booked ahead, but have some ideas.

The taxi from the bus terminal seems a little pricey, 15 Bolivianos, and whilst we haven't been here before, we sure that we've got less than 5 minutes travelling to do. In Potosi and Sucre, similar trips were costing half, or less.

The first budget hotel we try seems a little overpriced (US$30 a night), although it looks 'alright'. We wander down the road a little further, and soon come across Hotel Condeza (just by the crossroads of Calle Illampu and Calle Linares).

Whilst a little more expensive than we're prepared to pay (us$25), it seems nice, the room is fine, and as usual, we're quite happy to have our own bathroom/toilet. We were wary of staying at a hostel where there was not hot water etc (as a lot of the guides seem to suggest), so glad to pay a little extra for the comfort. Also breakfast included, and cable TV.

We crash out in the room for a couple of hours, enjoy the (6th floor) view of an area of the city, before heading out for a gander.

Seems to be a bunch of local weekenders out and about today, and the narrow pavements are busy (but safe), though these equally narrow streets are full of taxis, minibuses and bigger buses. Between them they're spewing out huge clouds of black stuff, and at this altitude (about 3900metres), the breathing can sometimes be quite heavy, so not very pleasant gulping down all those emissions.

As well as a simple look around, we're also trying to get some info for excursions in/around town, including the mountain bike ride down the 'death road' - strangely the 'biggest' operator "Gravity Assisted' seems to be closed today - also, we think they only go twice a week, that's what their website says...

Anyway, we get some other information, including details of a trip to Tiwanaku, from Diana Tours, and also check out the Death Road trip with Downhill Madness, also recommended to us.

To cut a long story short, Chris will take the trip to Tiwanaku tomorrow, and we'll both do the bike ride on Tuesday, with Downhill Madness (US$65, seemingly everything included, inc. tshirt and photo cd).

Other than sniffing around, and eating a little bit here and there, we don't do much for the rest of the day - quite a lot (the tourist things) is closed on Sunday. We grab a final bite to eat at Cafe Banais on Calle Sagarnaga - very nice too.

After the overnight bus ride, we're happy to kick back early and watch some telly, in our nice comfortable room.

Night-night.

Monday 7th May

Chris's trip leaves fairly early this morning, so we're both up at 7 to catch breakfast. After seeing the promotional leaflet for the hotel, we did think that breakfast was buffet-style, but is ultimately quite basic, but fine anyway.

Paul goes back to bed and watches Back to the Future, Chris's bus arrives just after 8, and hopefully will return by 3ish.

Paul quite happy to do very little today - catch up on some blog (truthfully quite glad that there's only a couple of months to go!) and take it easy.

Chris's trip on the other hand....

We meet up back at the room on time, and hang out until we get hungry. We think there's an Indian/Thai restaurant a little out of this tourist area of town, so head-off on foot in search, until we realise that we're not quite sure where we're going, and the road that we think the restaurant is on goes off the edge of the little map we have. Unsure of what ghetto we might be walking into, we about turn, grumpy with each other - we really fancy a curry!

Oh well, back to Banais - again, this is something we seem to do (go back to the same old place), but when you find somewhere that does good food, that doesn't give you the opportunity to try it again on the way back out (either end!), it's easy to take the 'safe' route.

No culture tonight (we are naughty), and end up with TV to send us off to sleep.

Big adventure tomorrow, on two wheels, out on the most dangerous road in the world...

Tuesday 8th May

Damn clouds - had hoped for perfectly clear skies for our trip today - maybe it'll clear..

After a rushed breakfast, we head round the corner to Downhill Madness and meet our group - there's about 12 of us, and we get kitted out in the basement. All the gear is included - gloves, pants, jacket, full face helmet and fancy gloves. Our guide 'Hector' seems fine and we're glad for his good English.

Our trip starts with a minibus ride out of town and up to 4600 metres (we'll be coasting down to 1300-odd metres), about an hour away. Once both minibuses arrive, the bikes are taken off the roof and set up for the riders - some of us have full suspension bikes, some just at the front. Either way, the bikes are in good shape, and are all individually set up for the group.

After a safety briefing, we get underway, with the first half (of 60+kms) being on 99% smooth tarmac, and downhill all the way.

It's great to be cruising along, picking up quite a pace, and trying desperately to be aerodynamic. The scenery is cool, though the clouds are in quite close, so blocking off the distant views. Of course, this is perhaps a blessing, cos the drops at the side of the road seem bottomless, se we'll keep an eye on the upcoming tarmac just now.

Safety seems to be the word, and we do make a stop for everyone to catch up every 10/15 minutes, including a mandatory at the police barrier.

We soon get to the point where we have a few kilometres of uphill, which starts off okay, but, at altitude, it's still a killer. Most of us need to push ourselves up the final 500 metres, but all make it in good time.

Annoyingly, the cloud has thickened and the drizzle has joined it - we're all soaked through, to the boots, and sunglasses are difficult to see through, but that's better than gritty water landing on your retina!

So, we soon arrive near the half way point, and this is where the proper dangerous part of the road begins. No tarmac, the track only 1 car wide, quite easy to pick up some speed on this downhill bit, no barriers at the side of the road, loose wet gravel amongst bigger rocks set into the ground etc etc.

After a few minutes on this surface, everyone taking it quite easy, we pull up for a spot of lunch, though we don't hang around standing in the drizzle - I guess some of us are quite excited to be getting back on the track!

We are warned to take it easy through the next few tight bends, and all is going well, until....

Paul is on a fairly long straight bit, pickin up some speed (though feeling safe with it), when.....POP, the front tyre blows.

It probably would have been quite easy to control the bike with a deflated tyre (maybe not) but the twist came when the inner tube came out from the tyre and began to wrap itself around the hub - it was really like one of those slow motion moments, when you can see clearly what is happening, and know what is about to come...

Next thing - the front wheel locks

Next thing - I'm in the air, drifting away from the handlebars, towards the sky

Next thing, thud, and on the ground, a little dazed.

Whilst dazed, I straightaway feel that there's nothing serious amiss - nothing broken or dangling off. Most of my body feels a little numb, my knee is bashed, hip grazed. I sit on the ground for a bit, also grateful for not going over the edge, like many other bikers have over the months - and also thinking about the other 817 outcomes from this tumble, it really could have been worse.

The ground is wet after this drizzle so don't sit around for long, and get on my feet, feeling a little odd. By this time a few of the other riders have gathered around to help out, and someone notices a rip in my fleece, just above the left elbow, at the back. Bugger, my favourite fleece!

I decide to take it off to see if it's ripped anywhere else, and then another person notices my arm, and whilst I can't see it myself, I can see him wince and turn away.

Seems I have a mouth-like gash, beaming out at everyone, though there's not much of the red stuff, though it's deep enough to be flashing some bone, or cartlidge - we're not sure.

The first aid kit is soon out and I'm being patched up, after a squirt of alcohol to try and dislodge some of the grit inside the wound - of course, this'll be a hospital job.

The nice guys sort me out with some gauze and a bandage, and Chris and I sit out the rest of the journey to Corioco in the minibus. Thankfully not feeling too bad, though I'm wet and cold - again, thoughts of how different it could have been keep the spirits up.

We arrive in Corioco for the buffet lunch - I've still got a bit of an appetite, so looking good. Everyone (except me and Chris) enjoys a hot shower before lunch and by mid afternoon we're back on the minibus to La Paz, some 3 hours away. The pain up till now had been bearable, but before we left, a doctor on our trip, Susan, kindly offered to have a look at the hole, and give it a clean. Yep, was pretty nasty and she didn't have the things she needed to take a proper look, though we had some Iodine to keep things clean. It was at this stage that the pain hit home, and we had a scene reminiscent of one of those movies where the hero needs to clean a gunshot wound with some liquor, and makes his eyes water.

The pain hit as soon as the Iodine found its way inside and, like a chameleon, I immediately blended in with the greenery around us. Was truly sickening, though only lasted a couple of minutes. Susan, honestly, thanks for that!

The bus ride back to La Paz wasn't the best of fun, and I felt a little unsafe on the cliffside road - it was raining, there was evidence of new/small landslides by the roadside, and to cap it off, the ignition key kepy falling out of the dash. Any minute now I was expecting the steering lock to kick in and put us on a course towards the 500 metre abyss below. It might not have been so bad if it had locked the steering to the left, sending us into the path of another vehicle.

As well as the above hazards, it was also getting dark and there seems to be an unwillingness for road users to bother with lights.

I guess as we got closer to La Paz, my worries turned from the dangerous road ahead, to the dangers we might face at the hospital. As well as a lengthy wait (we wait hours in casualty in England, it surely must be worse here in the third world...), would we be faced with unhygienic facilities and used/rusty equipment???

Anyway, we made it in one (albeit slightly damaged) piece at the clinic (Clinica Alemana) and there was no need for concern here. Our guide, Hector, sorted us out with a doctor and we were taken straight into a treatment room, and clean tools were brought out, and unwrapped.

I couldn't see much of what was going on, and also the doctors were speaking in Spanish, so I was oblivious to the good/bad they might have been discussing about my arm.

The first thing to do was to clean me out, and I was surprised by the noise of stone being dropped into the metal kidney bowl. Still not too much blood or pain at this point, and I didn't know that they had cut away a little piece of damaged skin.

Thankfully the stitches were applied after a couple of jabs of local anaesthetic - 3 on the inside (it was really quite deep) and 6 neat ones on the outside. With a gauze on top and a tight (best to keep the arm straight and avoid reopening the stitches(!)) bandage around the elbow, we were good (or thereabouts) to go.

Of course, weren't expecting free treatment and happily paid the USD 73 for what seemed a good job, though surprised at the cost of the antibiotics at a nearby pharmacy - 5 tabs, USD40, but the doc said they were the best. Perhaps they'll even sort of the cold I've had since back in Ushuaia. As long as they keep infection/amputation at bay, I'll be a happy, temporarily/partially disabled, boy.

Relieved to be back at the hotel, and continually thinking that, despite this inconvenience (I can't now pick my nose and scratch my backside at the same time), I can't help thinking about actually how lucky I have been. As the t-shirt says, I (truly) have survived the most dangerous road in the world.

It's not the most comfortable night's sleep, and the pain kicks in around 5 am, but a couple of tabs give some relief by first light.

Despite the above, the trip with Downhill Madness (oops, that name should have been a sign) was really good and we would like to have another go, but perhaps another time. Was a shame that the weather was poor and visibility over the edge obscured by cloud, though this probably helped keep our eye on the track.

Thanks to those who helped out and asked how I was, sorry I don't know all the names - Susan, James, Kim, Tony, 'the Swiss guy' - also to Hector who had been a great guide during the day, making sure everyone and their bikes were in good shape, and seemingly truly concerned about someone being hurt on his trip

Okay, let the healing begin...

Wednesday 9th May

A bit of a panic in the morning / the doctor had asked yesterday if I was up to date with my jabs, ie. Tetanus. I was pretty sure it was after visiting the local surgery before we left home last summer.

Finally found the immunisation card and found that my 10 year jab was running out this month.

Bugger, wasn't planning on going back to the clinic today/ever again, but just to be safe, we wandered down to check, and it wasn't necessary. I say we wandered down, the main street was busy with some protest folk, and no traffic getting through. Not sure why I didn't have a booster before we left...

Killed two birds with one stone at the clinic, and the doc took a look at Christine's ear, which had been playing up for the last few weeks, being blocked and making her a little deaf. I suggested that it could have been brain-ooze, but he said it was just a little wax. Christine may not be happy that I'm discussing her wax problem here, but I've just hit 'enter', so need to carry on.

Back up at our end of town, we had a bite to eat in Cafe Banais and happily bumped into Susan and James, and I was able to ask Susan about getting my stitches out. A bit of good and bad news - firstly she suggested that it wouldn't be too difficult a job for the most basically trained medical person, then she suggested that we could do it ourselves. Gulp.

Had a walk around the witches market after, and wondered what they did with the dried llama foetus's. Didn't do anything other than wonder about it, and bought some Pringles instead.

Early back to the hotel room, and watched tv to take my mind off what was happening under my bandages.

Thursday 10th May

Paul didn't sleep too bad, though it continues to be difficult finding a comfortable position.

Appetite still pretty much intact, and Chris kindly asked the hotel people to let me have breakfast in the room, and leaving Paul in bed with the remote control, Chris went over to the small but interesting Coca museum.

Didn't realise how important Coca is to the Bolivian folk in everyday life - it not only helps them get by with their day to day chores at this altitude, but also is an important offering to the Pachamama (mother earth) for a good harvest, and is present in all religious and magical ceremonies. An exchange of Coca leaves is also a sign of acceptnce of marriage.

Coca has been around for over 5000 years, with traces of coca leaves being found in mummies in Northern Peru, and been aged at 2500-1800 BC.

Incas removed the essential oils from the plant to carry out cerebral transplantations to remove tumours. It is astonishing that , even then, Coca leaves were used as an anaesthetic.

The Spaniards, especially the church, tried to ban the chewing of Coca, but it was soon realised that the indigenous people worked better when chewing the leaves - workers could continue manual labour for up to 48 hours when chewing the leaves, which alleviated the feeling of tiredness, hunger etc.

In 1886 Coca Cola was launched, using ingredents from the leaves, though the Coca was taken out of the recipe in 1912. Shame. Cocaine was then banned in the USA in 1914.

Whilst this is not a 'how to do it', cocaine is made from the coca leaves which are made into a paste. The paste is then refined to obtain base cocaine, and chemicals are added (sulphuric acid/hydrocloric acid).

Ironically, whilst the US has been working very hard to eradicate the coca leaves at source, the chemicals used to turn the natural/harmless leaves into cocaine, are mainly sourced from the US and Europe.

Back at the hotel, Chris finds Paul asleep and he wasn't too interested in doing anything, so she heads off for a bite to eat and a visit to the museums on Jaen Street, which is a lovely/quaint/narrow cobbled parade, and the museums pretty much lead into each other.

The first museum is very small, with information in Spanish only, though its easy to understand that the theme here is how Bolivia lost it's coastline to Chile. There's several old uniforms here, and photos of the liberators.

The next was a lot more interesting (Museo de Metales Preciosos Pre-Columbinos) - it houses some impressive Tiwanaku pottery and gold. One of the courtyard floors was decorated with kneecaps - mmm, nice. Also here, some silver jewellery and mummies.

The next museum had some items from the colonial period.

Across the street is Museo Casa Murillo ('the liberators house'), which had a lovely courtyard with balcony. The actual building was more interesting than the contents, ie religious art and furniture.

Later in the evening Paul is ready for some nourishment and fresh air. Well, as fresh as it gets in these narrow streets crowded with eco-unfriendly vehicles. That said, you're more likely to be run over before you choke to death.

Another fun packed night, in front of the TV, getting light relief from my friend Paracetamol.

Not much pain through the night, though woke up in the middle of it and thrilled to find Return of the Jedi on cable tv.

Friday 11th May

Paul can bend his arm just enough to do some two-handed typing, so caught up on a little bit of internet. That seemed to suck Paul's energy, so he went back to bed.

Chris went off to the Iglesia de San Francisco. Whilst building work on the church started back in 1549, it wasn't finished until the mid 18th century. Perhaps there's a negative side to the social chewing of coca leaves!

Apparently (the guide book says) the architecture of the church reflects the Mestizo-style!, but I won't bother to discuss the aspects of that here and now, however, in practical terms - there's large golden altar. I'm sure there's more to it than that.

Chris then went into the Museo de Etonografa y Folkloro. Very old tunics on display, some dating back to the 3rd Century AD. Amazing that fabric can last for so long. Maybe I should have some underwear made from the same stuff because my pants seem to last less than 6 months.

The modern part of the museum also houses some impressive pottery - Tiwanaku, Inca, Nazca, Chiru. Incredible that the Tiwanaku pottery looked so much better (more detailed/more robust-looking construction) than the colonial stuff.

Another room housed headdresses - interesting to see the ones of the Indian indigenous tribes.

Managed to rouse Paul out of bed for some food later in the day, though he didn't want to stay out to see a free musical performance. Quite a bizarre evening, listening to classical standards here in Bolivia. As well as the 'classics', the second half of the performance appeared to be some kind of freestyle jam, with the players seemingly knocking out different songs, at the same time as each other.

Paul popped in to Downhill Madness to see and thank Hector again for his help in getting me patched up and looked after.

Sadly, this is recorded as the latest Chris has been out for 'ages'. She's back in the room by 9pm.

Saturday 12th May

Chris wakes up to find that the eardrops prescribed to her have not done a lot of good, and now the waxy discharge is accompanied by pain and swelling.

Neither of us care to do too much and we spend most of the day in bed. I guess the rest is good for Paul, he seems to feel a little more comfortable and better after each sleeping session.

We find the time and energy to get out for some food, but not much else.

Sunday 13th May

We should have been out of La Paz by now, but Paul is still feeling unwell and really not fancying the prospect of getting on a bus and sitting in likely discomfort for hours, only to arrive at the next place and not feeling like doing anything.

We're a little grumpy with each other, though Paul still has the upper hand with sarcasm and having the last word. I'm sure Chris is actually having the last word, with some simple one-word put downs, like *******, ****, ***, ***, ************.

It's very much a Sunday feel around town, not a lot of folk about, and quite a few places closed early, or for the day.

The arm is definitely feeling okay, and it doesn't look like we're being troubled with infection - no particular swelling, pain, smell or green discharge. Maybe it's just the pills, slight lack of appetite and a touch of worry/frustration that's putting Paul off colour.

Monday 14th May

Ah yes, must be a weekday - more demonstrations in town!

We're still here in La Paz, but one more day and Paul's one more day better. Better in fact, and feeling sufficiently buoyant to suggest we move on tomorrow, to Copacabana, by Lake Titicaca.

To make the journey, hopefully, more pleasant, we've booked onto a tourist bus and we'll be picked up from the hotel, rather than having to lug the packs around. Luckily, Paul's pack has a side handle - he won't be using the back straps for a while yet.

Chilled out for a while in the sun that was above the main square - seems a popular place for both locals and tourists, and pigeons. Of course, reminds of us Trafalgar Square, though an icecream here costs the equivalent of 10p, rather than 10 pounds.

Picked up some more hooky cd's from the market, and a nice little holder for them, as I build up my collection.

Not much other shopping done here in La Paz, which is a bit silly cos it's sooo cheap (the souvenir crap). Nevermind...

After a bite to eat, we're back in the room, packing, ahead of tomorrow's bus journey to Copacabana, by Lake Titicaca.

Continues on next thread...

Thursday 3rd May

Sucre, Bolivia

There's regular buses from Potosi to Sucre, every hour or so, and we are pleased that this travelling day doesn't need to start early.

Had we had a shopping trolley, we could have freewheeled it down to the bus station, however, a taxi did an equally good job.

On arriving at the bus station, we're greeted by a ticket seller for the 10.30 bus, and we snap up the tickets, though the bus leaves 20 minutes late, stopping at a couple of places in town to fill up the empty seats. We're also stopped in our tracks by a makeshift roadblock - peaceful, but a pain in the ass, adding a little extra to our journey.

Of course, a journey on a local bus wouldn't be complete without tiny legroom. Hey, could be worse.

Nice scenery on the way, and we drop from the highest city in the world, to an easy on the breathing 2790 metres.

At the bus station there's a taxi waiting and we ask to be dropped at a recommended hostel, which is open, however undergoing some redecoration and is probably unsuitable, despite the man being very friendly.

Our taxi driver had already mentioned the Grand Hotel, but it sounded out of our price bracket, however we checked it out and was actually a lovely place, and a fair price of USD20, including breakfast. The room is lovely and overlooking a pretty courtyard - also pleased to have cable tv and free internet, oh, and oodles of hot water. We read and hear that hot water in hostels etc is quite a rarity, so happy to pay a little extra for it.

After chucking our bags in we head out for a wander around the interesting colonial-building town. Sucre was founded in 1538 and during the colonial period was the most important center in the eastern Spanish territories. Independence was declared in Sucre on 6th August 1825.

We found a trendy bar (mid afternoon - quite a lot of places closed for siesta) and enjoyed some good food and ginger ale.

After, we tracked down the popular Joy Ride Cafe and had some coffee and cake. Had hoped that these guys were doing quad bike tours, but seems they've stopped, though you can go on a motorbike tour and a bunch of other stuff.

Seems that we're continuing to eat very well in Bolivia - don't believe what the guide books tell you about the food here, there's some great stuff around!

Stopped at a supermarket just off the main square and were amazed to see a box (foot long) of After Eights. They cost as much as we had paid for lunch, but they were in date, and tasted great.

Friday 4th May

Going to see some Dinosaur footprints today, despite the warning in the excursion folder in the Joy Ride Cafe. We're told it's a waste of a 'couple of quid', but we're happy to take a chance for that sum.

The Dinotruck leaves the main square about 3 times a day, and we catch the first one at 9.30am, arriving at the site (now also a limestone quarry) - just us and another couple. They seem to offer half price transport for the first trip, and we realise why when we get to the site, and the guide (English speaking) tells us that the view is better in the afternoon, when the sun beats down on it.

The site is a huge (several hundred metres wide, a couple of hundred metres high) vertical wall, that was previously (millions of years ago) flat, but was sat on an active tectonic plate. There's about 5000 dinosaur footprint impressions here, and they were found only a few years ago, and confirmed only in 1998. Thankfully the quarrying work came across some elements in the ground that made it unsuitable (some chemical elements that I can't remember the name of), and work there stopped.

The site itself has been set up as a tourist spot, ie there's a few lifesize dinosaur models and associated information. The wall is viewed from a platform and, in truth, is quite far away from the wall, anbout 200 metres. Only a few months ago you could walk up to the wall, though I'd say the view is better from afar, especially if you have your own binoculars and camera with long lens. There are 'commercial' binoculars at the site, and they cost 2 Bolivianos for 2 minutes - a little annoying, but we're glad we remembered our binos.

The prints (clearly) show that the variety of creatures were in fact much larger than first thought - one predator walked for over 350 metres, the longest continuous recorded dinosaur track.

We were really blown away to be seeing this sight, just thinking of how old these prints were. Despite the distance away, it was very easy to see and very exciting.

Because of the disappointment of finding out that the view would be better around noon, we asked whether we could catch the later transport back to town, and this was no problem. Of course, we could stay at the site as long as we wanted and had the place to ourselves, including watching a couple of dinosaur documentaries while we waited on the sun getting in position.

Well worth hanging around for, the view became a lot clearer and more and more prints revealed themselves. The clearest prints were the 'figure-8' style of the Titanosaurio, a giant herbivore from 130 million years ago. Wow, and we're looking at this stuff!

The footprints were so clear you could also make out the 'claw' shape from the Noasaurio, as well as prints from the Abelsaurio and Carnotaurino. Quite difficult to appreciate the size of the prints from where we stood, though there were some workmen and their vehicles just below the wall and these prints were clearly from something gigantic!

Our time was soon up, and the follow on group arrived with our return transport. Shame that none of them seemed that impressed with the sight we had in front of us. No-one bothered to use the binoculars and I offered ours to a group of English folk - seemed a shame for them not to get a closeup view.

We totally enjoyed our visit to the cement quarry and feel quite lucky to have seen such a unique site/sight - this is one of the highlights of the trip for us. I'll put up some photos when we're home in July 2007.

Back in Sucre we enjoy lunch and continue talking about how much we enjoyed the Dinosaur prints, and then some cake.

We hang around in the sun in the plaza for a short while, and also buy our bus tickets out of here to La Paz for tomorrow night.

Sleep well, and looking forward to more exporing around town tomorrow.

Saturday 5th May

Up early to make the most of our last day, and Chris catches up on some diary.

Another blue sky day and we make our way out of town (on foot, not that far) towards the Mirador Cafe, which overlooks the town and surrounding hills. A nice walk up, though we have to stop to catch breath half way up - we're really not big fans of this high altitude stuff and wished for spaceman-style oxygen tanks.

The cafe is in an excellent position, though as a result it's quite busy but we get a nice table under a pretty tree, and away from the main group of tables.

Pleased to see Coffee Frappucino's on the menu, together with cake, of course.

Even more thrilled to see a small hummingbird zipping around and grabbing nectar from the flowers on the tree. Used up quite a lot of camera memory trying to get a few good shots - bloody thing won't keep still, but I'm partially successful!

We end up staying here for the best part of the afternoon, enjoying the warmth in the shade and the pretty greenery around us. Decide that we continue to really enjoy Bolivia.

Amongst others, Rich and Clyde won't be pleased that I bought some hooky CD's in the market in town on the way back down. Not sure if they'll play, but nice to have bought some music nonetheless.

Chris went back to the hotel whilst I was shopping, the diary is 'well' out of date, hence, I'll be typing up this blog a few weeks after the event!

Our bus leaves for La Paz at 6.30pm, so we get there nice and early to avoid any problems. All seems to be going well, until just after the supposed departure time, when we're told that our bus tickets are for the next day....

Not sure what the mix up was, and our Spanish is good enough to have heard the woman at the travel agency order our ticket for 'manana', being today, not tomorrow. Of course, manana means tomorrow, but I'm working within different tenses here, come on!

Anyway, after a few minutes, and some help from some other 'local' passengers, Chris jumps off the bus to discuss. Some minutes later, she's back and we're saved, though strangely two more seats have turned up for the folks who were double booked with us.

Glad to be on the road, and comfy in our semi-cama seats.

The journey to La Paz is fine and we get into town at first light. It had been warm enough until about 5am, when it turned something like 'freezing'. More importantly, we arrived safely and all is good.

continued on next thread...

Sunday 29th April

Potosi

Our bus from here (Uyuni) to Potosi doesn't head off til 10.30 am, so a leisurely start to the morning, and pleased for a good nights sleep.

No breakfast included at the hostel, so we pick up a few bits in town, and it's market day today.

Bus leaves pretty much on time, and thinking ahead, Paul chose a seat at the front of the bus to get a bit more legroom. We've already been warned about legroom in Bolivia, so will try to think ahead at each stop.

Unfortunately we're not sitting together, but the journey isn't so long, about 6 hours - a length that doesn't seem to bother us much nowadays.

The legroom is fine, though just before we head off it looks like a couple of other English folk will have to stand, but thankfully there's been some kind of mix up and they soon get their seats back.

The journey is fine, and more interesting mountainous scenery passes us by.

I did feel a little sorry for the girl sitting next to me, she seemed to be crying every so often. With my limited Spanish, there wasn't much I could do to help, unless we were ordering from a menu, or needed directions somewhere.

Anyway, wasn't long before the chubby miss let herself down by chucking a small bag of rubbish out of the window. Not sure if she actually thought it would be better to throw it into the small river we splashed through, so it would wash away into the magic trash can at the end. Tch! - at times like this I wish I could whisper some cutting Spanish words under my breath. She clearly didn't understand the ones I used, accompanied by the traditional British sideways shake of the head.

So, after more scenery, rocks, trees, leathery faced old women, limping dawgs, we get into 'downtown' Potosi, and dropped at the main bus station outside of town.

We're a little lost, with our current position off the Lonely Planet map, though we head up the hill, seeking a landmark.

Not finding one, we seek help, but get lost in translation, however, we are saved by a couple with their children, who communicate to us as to whether we are looking for a room. Whilst we have a hostel in mind, theirs sounds good - double room, private bathroom, cable TV, quiet, central location (though we're now wary of what this means to different people - central can still mean a 15 minute walk away!), and we're able to negotiate the price we were looking to pay elsewhere, from 100 Bolivianos, to 70, which is about just under GBP5 for both of us.

Chatted in our best Spanish for the 10 minute taxi ride to their (Monica and Francisco, children Claudia and Rodriguo) place, and yes, it's very nice, quiet homely, and we even have our own living room.

Walked, the short walk, into town and made some tour enquiries, including the Silver Mine tour, at Koala Tours (recommended in the guide book, and yes, seem very good).

There's an excellent veggie restaurant above the tour shop, and we enjoyed a great 4 course meal for less than GBP3 TOTAL.

This, Potosi, is the highest city in the world at 4070 metres, and we feel it as we walk back up hill to our digs.

Enjoy a fairly early night, with a little bit of TV and chocolate. The rooms a little bit cold, but cosy under the blankets.

Monday 30th April

Wow, another month goes by, and only 2 full months to go before we're home.

Whilst breakfast isn't included with our room, we have it here anyway, for a little extra. Nice to have warm rolls, and freshly made juice.

Had a wander around the pretty town (highest city in the world), Chris booked a tour of the silver mine for Wednesday.

Potosi was founded in 1545, following the discovery of ore in the hill behind, called Cerro Rico (rich mountain). It grew into Latin Americas largest and wealthiest cities - richer even than London. In turn, many churches were built (32 remain) and it has very impressive colonial buildings.

Enjoy a drink on top of the Cafe Mirador (Lookout) - great views of Potosi, The Plaza and Cerro Rico. The building was once a church, and now a cafe and theatre.

Later on we enjoyed a cheap 4 course lunch at the restaurant above the Koala tours shop.

Considered joining the trip to the Tinku festival, but decided that animal sacrifice and (literally, sometimes) fights to the death in the interest of spilling blood onto the sacred ground and ensuring a healthy harvest. Would have been very interesting, with the traditional dress, music and partying and the fact that it's not a tourist event, and perhaps would have been one of the most authentic experiences on this trip....

Just in case we change our minds about going to the Tinku festival, Chris changes her mine tour to tomorrow.

Chilly in our room in the evening - no heater, but the TV keeps us warm and enjoy back-to-back episodes of CSI.

Tuesday 1st May

Chris up early for the mine tour, and we have breakfast together before she heads off. Paul creeps back into bed for a bit.

The mine tour went a little like this...

The group first of all stopped off and bought a few bits and pieces (gifts) for the miners - soft drinks, snacks, dynamite - the usual stuff.

We had a talk on the miners equipment, including the Bolivian dynamite, which is apparently the best, followed by Argentinian. Peruvian dynamite is bottom of the list. Also had a sip of the miners tipple - 96% proof.

For our entry into the mine itself, we kitted up in jacket, trousers and helmet with built in torch - the heavy battery is on a belt. On the way towards the mine we stop at the miners market and bought some coca leaves (staple in high-altitude Bolivian life). Some of our group had a super-cheap meal, though not much for veggies.

Then we were taken to Cerro Rico, via the treatment plant where the minerals are purified. Zinc is the main mineral now mined, but the plant we visited still deals with silver ore.

Our guide, Pedro, explained some history about the mine, and that millions of labourers were conscripted to work the mines - indigenous people and African slaves. The Africans quickly perished due to the harsh climatical conditions.

Over 8 million workers died from diseases, accidents and contact with the toxic chemicals, including Mercury, in the mine.

Conditions were, and continue to be, appalling in the mines - even as we entered the mine, the heat, dust and cramped conditions hit us.

Firstly we visited the museum inside the mine, impressed with the information in English. There's a 'devil' statue inside the mine, that is considered good luck and the miners give offerings (cigarettes and coca leaves) for prosperity.

They work the mine as a cooperative venture, with each miner working on his own and selling his minerals/ore to a smelter through the cooperative. We learn that some of the miners aren't doing too bad, money-wise, and get around 5/6000 Bolivianos a month, though some earn only as little as a tenth of that.

Pedro's father worked the mine for more than 30 years and brought home on average 600 a month - he never found silver or made claim to a large mineral deposit.

Moving down to the first level, a little cramped and walking a little bent over, then we slide down some wooden planks to the second level, where it is more dusty and the heat sharply rises and we need to scramble through some very low ceiling parts before getting to the third level.

We all had a go at pulling and carrying the heavy buckets, though needed to do it in two's. Bloody hard work, bringing on a little perspiration!

The miners were pleased to receive our gifts, cigarettes, coca leaves, soft drinks, fruit and dynamite.

Quite noisy at this level - compressed air driving the pneumatic drills - quite unnerving.

Heading back up, we're on our hands and knees, but pleased for the coolness of level 1 and then back in to the fresh air.

After our 'hard work' we rest a while in our filthy overalls, and then the boys in the group went to perpare their dynamite. The guides positioned the dynamite and 5 loud explosions followed - no lives or limbs were lost!

Interesting day, and quite unforgetable - Paul regrets not going, but enjoyed his extra rest in bed.

We met up in town for late lunch and chatted for the rest of the afternoon, before stocking up on M&M's.

Wednesday 2nd May

Leisurely breakfast, and went to the Museo and Convent de San Francisco. Not quite worth the 40 Bolivianos we paid , though we did have a guide briefly, but would have preferred to wander around ourselves. There's still 10 monks here - one French and 9 Bolivians, who all teach in the nearby school.

After, we sat in the Plaza taking sneaky pictures of the local women in their traditional dress - knee high pleated skirts, thick tights and jumpers/shawls - topped off with a bowler hat.

After lunch at Koala Cafe we went across the road into the Casa Real de la Moneda (Royal Mint) - there's usually an English tour in the afternoon, about 2pm. The building was constructed between 1743 and 1773 to control the minting of colonial coins. We were first shown Bolivias first locomotive, and then into a lovely room housing religious art. One room holds a copy of Potosi's most famous painting, which is currently 'on tour' around the globe. It'll be coming to London in January 2008, at the National Gallery.

Interesting that the majority of the religious art was painted by indigenous artists who simply copied other art, including on occasions the original artists signature!

Religious art was used as a tool to evangelise the indigenous people .

The most interesting rooms hold the coins and wooden minting machines. The first coins were of course silver, and simply and crudely hammered into shape - this made them susceptible to 'theft' as folk would trim small pieces of silver from the coins.

Eventually the coins were made from moulds, giving them a perfectly circular shape.

The wooden minting machines were in excellent condition in the musuem, and we saw the lower level where mules were used to turn the huge machines - these ran 24 hours a day.

It's ironic that for hundreds of years, Spain's coins were made in Potosi, whereas now, Bolivias coins are made in Spain.

Was interesting to see the different coins throughout the colonial period - the different designs, palmtrees, llamas, Cerro Rico. Also within the museum were Tiahuanaco/Tiwanaku artefacts and several mummified children.

Sobering to see that several of the smelting rooms still had blackened brickwork from the smoke generated in there - must have been such harsh conditions for the indian and african slaves to work in.

After the interesting and recommended museum, we caught up on some internet chores and no doubt some more food at the Koala Cafe- I know it's bad that we had most meals in Potosi at the same place, but when it's so good, it's always risky to try somewhere else and be disappointed...

Off to Sucre tomorrow, so packed in the evening and readied ourselves for departure...

Really enjoyed our time in Potosi, though perhaps not the altitude.

continues on next thread...

Thursday 26th April

Overland 4x4 trip to Uyuni

We say goodbye to the various people and cats at our hostel in San Pedro, and wait for the minibus that starts our 3 day trip across the desert to Uyuni.

Picked up just after 8am, and driven back in to the centre of the small town, where we meet the other folks in our group, which are mostly Czech and Slovak Head Doctors, also an English couple, Duncan and Laura, though they will not be on our 4x4 that we'll pick up on the other side of the border.

Enjoyed an outdoor breakfast just over the Bolivian border, at 4000 metres, where it's a little more chilly. Paul had his first experience of chewing coca leaves, which aren't all that nice.

Fantastic view from here of Volcano Licanabur (5916m) and at the foot of the volcano we came across Laguna Blanca and Laghuna Verde - impressive sights, though a little put off by the 'toxic' foam at the edge of the Laguna.

The journey across the bumpy terrain is fine in the 4x4 and our guide/driver looks up to the job of ferrying us around for the next couple of days.

Next stop is at Polque's hot springs, though we didn't do any more than sit on the edge with our feet in. Whilst the water is nice and hot, the time will come when you'll need to get out into the absolutely freezing cold - again, it's bright and sunny, but we're way up high.

Further along we stop at an active geothermic field and see various steam pools and bubbling-mud pools. We're warned not to get too close.....

The onward journey gives us ever more impressive scenery, though very dry and arid.

We're enjoying our group (6 plus driver) and our Czech/Slovak chums are very friendly and accomodating of speaking English. Excellent English. Not a lot is heard from our guide, who I'd say is more of a driver, however, he's doing a great job and, so far, we're really pleased we picked the Estrella Del Sur tour.

Whilst our driver is doing a great job, it feels like our jeep is not quite 100% and we're going slower than the others. Most times we've stopped so far, the bonnet has been open and several folks peering inside.

At lunchtime (quite late afternoon) we stopped at our digs for tonight near Laguna Colorada - food surprisingly very good, all things considered. Plenty to go around. Not sure how warm it'll be in our dorm room tonight, and we're already aware that there's no hot water or showers in this place.

After food, we drive down to the lake edge, where there's an amazing 'red' colour in the water, which looks great against the white salt areas in the distance. Also here are rare Jamas Flamingoes, Chilean and Andean Flamingoes in their hundreds, who survive on the pink algae in the water.

Disappointed that we had a short time here as it's an amazing scene.

Back at the digs, we hang around and chat with folks from our group, looking forward to dinner.

Again, impressed with the food - soup, veggie spaghetti, drinks - all included in the trip price. So, Day 1 of the trip and we're really pleased with everything, after not expecting too much - we thought it would be basic sandwiches for every meal!

Very pleased to see a small wood-burner set alight for us, and we make a bench circle as tight as we can and make the most of the limited heat. Of course, whilst this is nice, it'll be even colder when we go into our room!

Folk soon head off to bed and we're not far behind - very glad that we had asked if they had any spare blankets (mantas). So, with 3 layers, plus sleeping blanket, plus clothes and a hat, we cocoon ourselves and prey that we don't die of hypothermia during the night.

It's not a best night's sleep, for any of us in the room (we shared with Duncan and Laura), though Chris seems to have won the prize for most shut-eye. And snoring.

Friday 27th April

Up quite early, and away by just after 8am. Breakfast very good, considering.

More of the same planned for today, heading north, and stopping at various interesting sites.

First stop, a curious random collection of huge stones in the middle of nowhere, one in particular called Arbol de Piedra (Stone Tree - a stone that looks like a tree etc.), then onward to Laguna Honda, Laguna Hedionda and Laguna Canapa. Again, great views and landscapes.

We stopped for a pleasant lunch by the 3rd laguna and watched the flamingoes tucking in themselves, though I much preferred the salad to the pink algae.

Very laid back, just watching the scenery around us, enjoying the fresh air and the company of some new friends.

Quite a long drive in the afternoon across the Salar (salt flat) de Chiguna, which wasn't as impressive as it could have been, due to a cloudy sky.

This was also the opportunity for us to see the optical illusions that are thrown up in such, flat, places - the area is extremely flat and nearly aligned perfectly with the shape of Earth, allowing visitors to see the curvature of the planet by producing an optical illusion that makes many of the mountains within the vicinity appear to be floating in the air since their bases are on the other side of the curve and thus out-of-sight.

Onward through the small village of San Juan towards the Salt Hotel, and saw our first quinoa (an andean crop) fields on the way.

PLeased to arrive at the Salt Hotel, and pleased that it seems warmer here - we're also a little lower in altitude.

Funny little place, though very nice. Made from salt and throughout the floor is simply sand (except in the showers/toilets). Our room is fine, and the bed comfortable.

We have a couple of hours to kill before a group dinner, and sit and chat, and read and play some Ipod. There's even a little tuck shop here, where we see Snickers, Toblerone, Skittles and other such luxuries for the first time in a while.

Dinner was excellent, really good stuff and wine, Also enjoyed good company at the table.

Afterwards, played cards for a while, including Top Trumps Planets, and Sharks.

Bed quite early, as we're up at 5 am tomorrow.

Again, another good day, and we feel that the trip is such a bargain (at 49,000 Pesos/GBP49).

Saturday 28th April

Yaaaawn - up at 5am sharp, though not much to do to get ready, the showers can only be used during the afternoon/evening. No problem. breakfast will also follow later, once we've made it to our sunrise rendezvous.

The moon is far over the horizon at this time, leaving a nice clear blanket of stars to admire, as well as the occasional shooting star.

Leaving a little later than planned, we head off with fingers crossed that we get to the sunrise point just in time.

We're now on the Salar de Uyuni, the largest and highest salt lake in the world, at 3650m, and covering 9000-12000 sq kilometres - this is twice as big as the great salt lakes in the USA. The depth of the salt ranges from 2-20 metres, and was part of a prehistoric lake, Lago Minchin, which dried up many, many years ago...

Unfortunately there's quite a bit of cloud around, especially where the sun is rising, so not the best of views, but it's amazing standing in the middle of the huge open, white, space.

There's an island in the middle of the salt flat, Isla de Los Pescadores (Fisherman Island), and you can climb to the top to get great views of the surrounding flats.

Had breakfast here too and played around with taking some photos, where it looks like Chris is as big as a book, etc. Sorry, no picture to show, but will update 'soon'.

Once the sun was fully up, the surrounding white salt looks amazing, and stretches far out to the horizon, though it would have been very cool to see nothing else on the horizon at all, for the whole 360 degree view.

Back in the jeep, we drive across the flat to another hotel in the middle of nowhere, which is made of salt. Then, onto some working saltmines at the edge of the flats.

Had lunch near here, again, great food.

Chris was given a bag of coca leaves to feed to a fairly-tame Yuanco. I say fairly tame, but it had been spitting at a few folks previously, like a camel.

By mid-afternoon we arrived in the dusty town of Uyuni, but before stopping we visit the train cemetary - simply a bunch of rusting locomotives, sat on their tracks in the middle of the desert. It is said that Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid held up one of these trains....

Back in Uyuni, we spent a few moments wondering whether to stay in town for a night, or get the overnight bus straight up to Potosi.

A few minutes later.....yep, we'll stay here. We're recommended by the Estrella people to stay at a hostel right by the open air bus terminal (oops, can't remember the name), and they also get us to a recommended bus company (6th de Octubre) to buy our ticket for tomorrow morning.

We'll not be doing much here except killing some time and avoiding taking the bus overnight. I'm sure it's safe, but we're more comfortable waiting until tomorrow. Anyway, it's only about a 6 hour journey, so we'd be arriving in the middle of the night, to then have to find accomodation. Not worth the bother...

After a long awaited shower, we spend some time in the small town, get some Boliviano's, and some food.

Using an ATM (there's a Visa one in town, not certain about Mastercard), it works out for me (as a Brit) that I get slightly more US Dollars for my money than Bolivianos, so I reckon we'll be using a mixture whilst we're in the country. Another tip, if you're using a debit card, like Nationwide's (www.nationwide.co.uk - free international ATM withdrawals), it'd be a good idea to make small withdrawals to give you smaller notes - 50 Bolivianos seem to be the smallest the machines give. US Dollars seem to be 20's.

Whilst we had said goodbye to Duncan and Laura, we had hoped we bump into them in town for a last meal, alas.......

Anyway, we'll underline the Uyuni overland trip here, and simply say that we had a great time, and, as well as recommending anyone in the vicinity to do the trip, we don't think you'd go wrong booking with Estrella del Sur, even if it's a few quid more.

continued on next thread...

San Pedro de Atacama

Sunday 22nd April

So another bus journey over, and we are dropped off in a dusty carpark, where there are a few hostel owners hanging around for some business.

We had make a booking with one of the hostels that's slightly out of town, and were expecting to be picked up, however they didn't show. On the basis that there's no taxis in sight, we don't have a map and feel completely lost, we take up the offer of a room from the guy that owns Hostel Iquisa, which he says is nice, central and 5000Pesos each per night. He's also got a van to take us there, so we accept.

It's a small place, that looks out across the desert to the mountains and seemingly there's noone else there.

The room is fine, and the shared bathroom also looks okay. No breakfast here, but we have full use of the kitchen. There's also three cats, all responding to the name 'Mooncat'.

We drop off our bags, and follow the crappy map towards town, but go slightly wrong and end up missing the centre. Thankfully the two dogs that followed us know the way back, and we soon hit the 'highstreet'.

Not your usual highstreet mind, we are in the middle of the desert after all. However, there seems to be quite a lot going on - lots of tour shops, restaurants/bars but all on a small, dusty, scale. Looks like an interesting place to hang out for a few days.

Because our time here is quite limited we make enquiries as to the local tours - we aware of the Moon Valley tour, various geysers and ruins. Of course, this is also where we pick up our 4x4 trip to Uyuni, Bolivia.

Also, we're low on Pesos, so make a beeline to one of the two ATM's in town. One's Mastercard, the other, Visa - both of them quite near to the main street.

Booked our Moon Valley tour, and had a bite to eat at the excellent 'Todo Natural' restaurant.

Then, an early night and to take things easy at 2500 metres.

Monday 23rd April

Visited the Archaelogical Museum, which contains the collection of Padre Gustave Paige, a Belgian missionary who lived in San Pedro between 1955 and 1980. Lots of other interesting exhibits - pottery, textiles, miniature Inca artefacts, Paleoithic tools, skulls with headdresses, jewellery, and paraphernalia for smoking hallucinogenic drugs!

The museum details the development of pre-Hispanic Atacameno society. We learnt that there was human occupation of the area approx. 11,000 years ago.

At that time it was more humid, as the ice age was ending, and large glaciers melting meant that it became more wet. Nevertheless, the flora and fauna was the same, just more plentiful.

The weather changed, to like what we have today, around 6-8000 years ago.

Lunch followed, then we booked our 'Salt Flats' tour, after having read therecommendations/cautions book at the tourist office. Clearly, 'Estrella del Sur' came out well in the reviews, and we were pleased to book with them. Lionel was very friendly, and explained the 3 day/2 night very well. It's a little more expensive than most of the others, at 49,000 Pesos, but we reckon it'll be worth it and will keep our fingers crossed.

After lunch, our afternoon trip out to the Moon Valley heads off.

First stop, we head to a viewpoint of the surrounding mountain ranges (The Andean Mountain Range - a chain of volcanoes) - excellent sight/site, and our guide gives us some information of the surrounding geological area. Also had a view of the Salar (Salt Flat) de Atacama.

We're told that 40% of the world's Lithium is mined in the area.

Back in the bus we head over to Death Valley - stunning reddish landscapes. Excellent fun running down the high sandy slopes - this is where some of the sand-boarding tours come.

Moving on, we drive on to Moon Valley (Valle de la Luna) itself and we start by walking through a small canyon network, which are mainly made of salt, though they have a coating of sandy dust covering them. Apparently, after rain, the place turns white!

At the main viewpoint in the Valley, we start by walking from the carpark up to the top of a huge sand dune, then along to the 'medium' (exertion required to get there) viewpoint, where we have excellent 360 degree views, as the sun slowly sets in the distance. Fantastic landscapes, and the setting sun turns the surrounding hills a gorgeous red. Gets a bit bloody cold after the sun sets!

The tour was a good as was promised at the office in town, and we'd highly recommend Cosmo Andino. They're a little more expensive, but it paid off.

Back in town and we head straight for Todo Natural and enjoy an excellent 3 course meal with wine, for under GBP10.

Tuesday 24th April

Paul woke up, under the weather - a bit achy-breaky, bad (loose!)stomach etc. As a result we decide against hiring bikes, and he stays in bed while Chris heads into town, visiting the Church, which has a roof made from thick cactus bark.

Some nuns came into the church in their dazzling-white tunics (how do they keep them so clean in this dusty place?) and started praying. Couldn't believe it when a photographer came in and started to film them inside the church, at the altar, withthe priest. A little hypocritical when there's a big notice directed at tourists, deeming photography/filming forbidden as it 'harms the saints faces'.

After, Chris went along to the cemetary on the edge of town - lots of simple crosses placed on mounds of earth with colourful wreaths wrapped around the crosses.

Nice Chris also picked up some food in town for lunch.

After catching up on some diary, Chris walked to Pukara de Quitor, 3kms out of town - a 12th century fortress, which was restored in 1981. Not a huge amount to see, mainly consisting of low walls, so some imagination required.

The fortress was stormed by the Spanish under Pedro de Valdivia -1000 defenders were overcome by only 30 horsemen, but they were helped by Indians.

Despite the altitude, it can get very hot under the bright sun, so Chris very glad of a lift from a passer-by back to town.

In the evening, Paul well enough for a walk into the town and for some food, again atTodo Natrural. This time, the excellent food accompanied by a local group who played a handful of traditional tunes, on guitar, drum, flute and panpipes.

Fairly early night ahead of an early start for a trip to the geysers - pickup at 4am!!!

Wednesday 25th April

Paul still not in great health and decides against joining the daytrip to the El Tatio geysers.

The pickup was on time, and the minibus makes its way through the darkness up to 4300metres - the worlds highest geyser field.

Due to science, the geysers are more active just before sunrise, though Chris was a little disappointed, as she had expected/hoped to see huge spurts of water, but the highest here only about 2 metres. All the same, the site was impressive - lots of little geysers, coloured streams caused by the minerals.

The site is a little dangerous, as there's no safety rails around the geyser holes. It comes as no surprise to hear that there are regular accidents!

After the geysers the trip continues to a nearby hotspring, where we enjoy a dip. Also here, the French geyser - so named after the first (French) person to fall in and perish.

Apparently, geysers are formed when a frozen underground river makes contact with hot rocks.

On the journey back to San Pedro, the group stops at a small village, inhabited by only a few folk, making a living from the tourists. It's a sweet reed-roofed village, with a delightful little church.

Chris had her best cheese empanada here!

On the last part of the journey back, we stopped to see a 'hundreds of years old' cactus, and also persuaded the guide to show us a waterfall a little downstream. Couldn't believe we were sitting by a waterfall in one of the driest areas of the world.

Paul felt better for the extra rest in bed, and was on better form in time for late lunch, again at Todo Natural. Probably wasn't the best thing to have after a dodgy stomach, but we enjoyed a complementary Pisco Sour. Hey, maybe it's just what Paul needs!

Not much done for the rest of the day - we get our stuff ready for heading out on the Uyuni trip, and into Bolivia.

to be continued on the next thread...

Salta

Friday 20th April

So, our bus from Mendoza gets us into Salta Bus Terminal just after midday. First thing to do is make our way to the hostel 'Hostel in Salta', which seems quite near, as far as the map is concerned.

20 minutes later (walking!), we get to the place and are shown to our delightful 'attic' room (room 3), which has it's own bathroom. Breakfast is included here too. At the time of writing this, I can't remember how much the room cost, but it was one of the cheapest places we had stayed in Argentina, around GBP6 a night for both of us.

Walked into town and stpped at the large main Plaza (9 de Julio) and had some lunch on the square.

The plaza is very pretty and not troubled by too much traffic. The square is surrounded by orange trees and interesting Colonial buildings, which are combinations of museums, restaurants, cafes and small shops.

Nice lunch, and cheap too, and pleased/surprised to see Susanne, who we met a few weeks ago in Torres del Paine. She's now travelling with her friend Britta, since Mike went home from Calafate.

Pleased to catch up over lunch, and we plan to meet up again in the evening.

With full tums, we walk across to the Cable Car (Teleferico) to take us up the hill for vies of the city and further out.

The view are good, and the facilities at the top of the cable car are quite well done - restaurant, neat waterfall, various viewing sites. Views of the surrounding peaks slightly obscured by clouds, though it's still quite warm.

After an hour at the top, we walk back down to town, though initially getting lost and walking off towards the nearest peak. The proper path down takes you through a green wooded area, leading to the Güemes Monument. General Martín Miguel de Güemes, a hero of the wars of independence.

Trying to be organised, we went back via the bus station to get out tickets out of here, to San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), for Sunday. We would hang around here longer, but the weather forecast not so good for the next few days, and the next bus isn't until Tuesday.

Only two bus companies go from here to San Pedro (Pullman and Geminis) and both go on the same days, 3 days a week. The Gemini bus was full for Sunday, so went with Pullman - prices pretty much the same, we paid 140Pesos each, semi-cama.

Rushed back to the hostel to change, before heading back out to meet with Susanne for dinner. Had a lovely evening, though back quite early. Susanne and Britta get a 5am bus tomorrow!

Saturday 21st April

Both of us woke up feeling a little grotty, and we stayed in bed, missing breakfast.

Finally got into town around noon, and had some lunch and a litre of orange juice, for health reasons! Christine's Submarino (hot mile with a bar of choc melted into it) cheered her up.

As it's siesta time, and not much open, we walked around the interesting town bordering the main plaza.

Later, after 5pm when things spring to life again, we visited the Museum of High Altitude Archaeology. Several mummies are stored here, but only one (amazingly preserved) is on show to the public. There are some photos of 3 others recently found - 3 children, who look as though they have only recently died. The 'Queen of the Mountain' is on show - a girl offered (sacrificed) to the Inca divinities at the summit of Chuscha Mountain.

In the early 1920´s the tomb of the girl was looted and the mummy was bought by a collector from Buenos Aires. Thankfully her last owner saw fit to contact the Centre for the Studies in Applied Politics, and after 82 years the mummy was returned to the province of Salta in 2006.

The body looks quite disfigured, but you can steill see hair and teeth.

More than 200 mountains with archaelogical remains have been discovered in the Andes.

Also on show at the (quite small) museum are some objects that were found with the mummy - a necklace, shells, bowls, combs and other pottery.

After the museum, we visit the Cathedral, also on the main Plaza.

Lonely Planet right to call it gaudy! It's pink and white outside and the inside is quite ornate, with paintings and an elaborate golden altar.

Next, and also on the Plaza, we visited the Old City Hall (18th Century Cabildo). It houses religious and modern art - pottery, funeral urns, furniture, historic coins, as well as some old vehicles.

Unfortunately only 1 solitary sign in English, so not a huge amount of information gained, but interesting anyway, and worth the 2 Pesos entrance.

A little sorry that we're feeling grotty on our last night in Argentina, and not too excited about the early start tomorrow... (which also means we'll miss breakfast again!)

Sunday 22nd April

The hostel ordered a taxi for us to take us to the bus station, glad that it turned up on time at 6.30am - worst nightmare is to miss a bus!, especially in a place where the next one isn't for 2 more days.

Anyway, we're on time and get some cheap croissants at the bus station and use up the last of our Argentinian Pesos.

The bus leaves pretty much on time, and leg room is pretty good, on this semi-cama bus, which is mainly full of tourists.

The route takes us via San Salvador de Jujuy and we pass some amazing mountainous scenery, where we remember that we're feeling the effects of the altitude.

Food served onboard is basic, but welcome.

Took quite a while getting through the border control - we've been lucky so far, usually we done within 20 minutes, but here at least an hour.

Arrive in Chile for the last time...

to be continued on next thread...