Feb 2007

Buenos Aires

Touched down in BA at 7.20am - a little tense moment trying to sort some accomodation from the airport - again, wishing we'd immersed ourselves in Spanish many moons ago...

Transport from the airport nice and easy - there's a booth just past the customs gate and several choices, including a minibus, which makes stops all around downtown, or our own taxi right to the door.

Plumping for the latter (about GBP13 between the 3 of us) we get to the Hostel Inn in San Telmo. Unfortunately we can't checking for a couple of hours and end up split up in single sex dorms, with 8 beds in each. Great, that'll be a quiet nights sleep tonight then....

With map in hand we hit the pavements towards Plaza De Mayo and Florida Street (the main shopping street in Centro). As well as buying some new shorts, Julie tried to wreck the shop by pulling a clothes rail of its hinges.

Walked up to Plaza de San Martin and sat around in the park watching the world go by, whilst eating a bargain bag of Peanut M&Ms.

More walking in the heat takes us to Puerto Madero, saw the bridge which is meant to resemble two people dancing. Can't quite see it ourselves, though we are a bit tired today, after our overnight flight. Paul makes a mental note of the Hooters restaurant by the quayside. Nearby theres a 'replica' of Sydney Opera House.

Walked our way back through San Telmo to the hostel and showered before Chris and I walked back to Centro for some cash. Bit of a music event warming up in the gardens at the Plaza de Mayo, so sat down in the late afternoon sun. Nice, doesn't get dark here till 9ish.

Picked up a couple of Pizzas on the way back and stuffed ourselves before a, supposed, early night.

We're all for a lively hostel, but it sucked tonight, with music echoing around and folks quite happy to talk loudly/slam doors/leave doors open etc etc. Nevermind, it speeds up our departure over to Uruguay and nudges us that we'll need to book ahead for our accomodation in South America.

Uruguay - Colonia

18th January - Nice and early taxi (wow, taxis really are cheap here) to the Buquebus ferry terminal - the main option for getting across the water to Uruguay.

Thankfully we err on the side of caution and get to the ferry with little time to spare for getting tickets (you book you ticket at one desk, then pay for it at another, before checking in elsewhere, then finally going through immigration - both the Argentinian and Uruguayan guys sit next to each other to stamp you in/out).

We're on the fast ferry for a 50 minute trip to Colonia del Sacramento - nice and clean, fast etc. We even get a little breakfast given to us on the way. Notice that the sea is a dirty brown from one international coast to the other.

Arriving across the water we grab our bags and walk straight for accomodation, which turned out to be the Colonial Hotel (it's a hostel) - thankfully we snag the last 4-person room for the three of us. Feel a little bad for the older couple who arrived by taxi to a full house. The rooms are basic, but clean and cheap, and the atmosphere around the place is nice.

Walked to the old town area, very quaint and laid back. Enjoyed drinks at the San Pedro Cafe at the Plaza de Mayo before getting back to the hostel in the early evening - again, an early night. This time, little noise, though a little hot and the fan doesn't oscillate.

19th Jan - Up at 10 ish and skip the free basic breakfast at the hostel for a 3-course/GBP2 one just up the road. Looking forward to more Creme Caramel...

Back into the old town and we followed the walking tour from the Lonely Planet guide, adding our own diversions, via drinks/snacks/ice creams. Went through Plaza de mayo, Calle de Los Suspiros (colonial houses), past General Lavellejas residence and the ruins of the 17th Century Convento de San Francisco and up the lighthouse. To the coast and to the Plaza de Armas (ruins of a house) and went into the Iglesia Matriz - amazing lit-up Nativity displayed here. This is Uruguays oldest church, though has been rebuilt twice - reminds me of Trigger's aged broom, with 3 new heads and two new handles.

Walked across to the Port - Puerto Viejo - and the surrounding streets.

Paul continues to suffer with a minor athletes foot (does this need to go in here???) and at the pharmacy does a good job of asking for the appropriate treatment. We must look up the Spanish word for 'spray', though 'Tsst-tsst' served us very well this time.

Back at the hostel we sort out our next accomodation in Montevideo. We'd also sorted our onward bus ticket to Montevideo.

Back in town, Chris and Julie go into the various museums - Museo Municipal, Museo Espanol - unfortunately not a lot of info in English, but interesting to see the buildings, especially the tiny Portuguese house.

Dinner in town, with beer by the litre.

Glad for a restful time in Colonia - not a huge amount to do, but a nice couple of days.

Uruguay - Montevideo

20th January - Two and a half hours bus ride to the Uruguayan capital of Montevideo - no problems and we arrive right on time. Taxi to our accomodation (Che Legarto - recommended, nice bunch of folks) right in the corner of the Plaza de Independencia, facing the Mausoleo de Antigas - Uruguays Independence Hero.

Wandered around town, quite busy with folks. Visited the mausoleum - a curious, large, underground room, with two guards keeping a perfectly still and silent watch.

Walked down Sarandi to the shore, then onto the Puerto where the Queen Mary 2 is berthed. What a size! - would have been nice to get a peek onboard.

Walking through Plaza Zabaia we are stopped by an elderly man, speaking nothing but Spanish, though we make out that he's not after our valuables, but pointing out a nearby 'palace' (Palace Taranico) at the corner of the Plaza. He walks us there and, continuing in fast Spanish, tells us about the house as we walk around. Very ornate and beautiful (the building, not the man).

Inside we meet an English couple who are on the QM2 - we find out that the ship is on an 'around the world in 80 days' trip, though they're on for just 2 weeks.

After trying to sort out accomodation for Punta Del Este, and failing, we head for dinner in town and we notice some old folks dressed 'up to the nines', whatever that actually means. Julie and Chris watch a chorus perform in one of the squares - Paul went back to the hostel.

21st January - decide to stay on another night in Montevideo.

The local area a little quiet today, being the weekend, though we're advised to visit the local market - said to be the biggest street market in South America. Well, yes it's a whopper and there's everything here - from fish to bent CD's, with all kinds of food inbetween.

Pizza for lunch for the girls, Paul had a monster steak sandwich (Chivito), about 20 centimetres high.

After a welcome siesta Chris and Paul walk down to the shore and watch the locals enjoying the glorious weather. Back at the hostel we crack on with some cocktails (Cuba Libre in particular). Ahead of dinner (BBQ at the hostel) we head out to watch a street performance by some old folks.

Waited ages for the BBQ, but enjoyed it when it came.

22nd January - On the 11am bus to Punta Del Este - excited to be heading to the beach for a few days. Not a huge ride and we're there by 1.30, though spent at least an hour trying to sort out our return journey to Montevideo, which was to include the boat back to Buenos Aires. Glad we got it sorted, rather than panicing on the day of departure.

We're actually staying about 30 minutes bus ride up the road in Manantiales, at the YHI hostel there. Finally get to our digs at 4pm(!). Hostel is 'okay' - not quite situated where the bus drops you off, but 500 metres off the track. Also, the availability of lockers turns out to be one small safe for everyone to share.

Annoyingly, realised too late that we needed more cash, so back on the bus to Punta Del Este - no ATM's in Manatiales. No big problem as we spend the rest of the evening in town.

Back at the hostel, struggle to sleep - room must be 5000 degrees, and our room sits in the middle of two sources of loud music. Thanks for that! Again, the hostel not getting too many plus points. Oh, and the bathrooms are pretty crap too. At least there's a friendly puppy, with sharp teeth.

23rd Jan - Up late, 10-ish, had free brekkie at the hostel and then walked 10 minutes to the beach.

Considering that Punta Del Este area/Bikini Beach is 'the' beach spot in Uruguay, it's not great and the water is as murky as the South Coast of England, though there's no turds here.

Burnt our feet walking across the sand, though pleased to get hold of a couple of umbrellas. Water pleasantly cold inbetween sunbathing sessions. Late afternoon we head back into Punta Del Este and walk along the seafront to the harbour. Beautiful sunset and watched an opera singer entertain a restaurant crowd.

Found ourselves some dinner at the Blue Cheese restaurant - nice, but quite expensive - a little change from GBP25 for 2 of us. And, only a couple of beers.

Back to our room by midnight - still very noisy and hot, we managed a few hours broken sleep.

24th January - Back down to the beach. Bit of action a little way up the beach - a car (unmanned) rolled down the road and crashed onto the beach. Seemed a big deal to the huge group of locals that gathered.

Noticed a plane fly along the coast, trailing a banner for 'Seal - Conrad - Tonight'. Put 2 and 2 together and worked out that Seal was in town - which was confirmed on his website.

Made our way down to the fancy Conrad hotel that night, but put off by the ticket price - some GBP35. Happily spent a lot less on Pizza and Ice Cream, whilst humming 'Killer'.

Another hot and equally noisy night at the hostel, with special thanks to the Irish lads who kept us up, and entertained. They were hilarious. Really.

25th January - tired of being tired, but glad to be moving on, back to Buenos Aires. We hear that one of the Irish boys has gone missing after last nights 'fun'. After a local helps them get through to the Police to report it, the monkey turns up in another room. Class act!

Back to Buenos Aires

The journey back to Argentina is nice and easy, if not quite expensive - over GBP100 for the 3 of us.

Arrive at our pre-booked accomodation in Palermo - 'Caseron Porteno' by 5-ish, after losing an hour with the time difference - very pleased with our lovely room, and happy to pay US$40 a night in these surroundings. Wow, we even have our own private bathroom! Looking forward to breakfast, and no rush - anytime up till noon.

Very clean here, nice garden with friendly cats. Free tango lessons available too, though we skip that for dinner instead. Enjoyed a healthy organic/veggie dinner at Bio. Not too expensive.

26th Jan - Slept in, very comfortable. Nice breakfast, served, rather than help yourself. Yummy pastries, yoghurt for the first time in months, and plenty fresh toast, jam, cheese and ham. Oh, and freshly squeezed orange juice too.

Took a cab down to Plaza de Mayo, had hoped to get into the Casa Rosada, but it's closed until March for a refurb. At the other end of the Plaza is the Cathedral, which inside houses the tomb of General Jose de San Martin - the revered liberator. Very nice inside the Cathedral.

Then walked down to the Obelisco - the tall concrete needle in the middle of the widest street in the world, supposedly.

After that, to Plaza Lavalle to take a look at the National Theatre. Found ourselves in the court instead. Once we found the NT, again we find ourselves in the middle of a refurb till March.

Back to the shops on Florida and a visit to the Galeria Pacificos.

Started hammering with rain as we left - sought refuge in McDonalds.

In between showers we made our way up to Plaza de San Martin and saw the monument to th Argentinians who died in the Falklands/Malvinas conflict. Nearby is their 'Big Ben' - or, Torres de Los Ingles. The Brits gave this 76m high clock tower to Argentina back in 1916.

Walked back into Centro via Plaza De Mayo and along Avenida De Mayo to visit Cafe Tortoni - the most famous cafe in Buenos Aires. Popped inside for a quick look at the amazing decor, though passed on refreshments this time. Had planned to book in for the following night's tango show, but wanted to get some advice on the best tango shows from the folks at our accomodation.

All the rain in the world seemed to be falling as we left - got absolutely soaked crossing the pavement to a taxi.

Back at the digs, Chris and Julie join a Tango lesson - Paul chickened out this time.

Ate locally, in a busy restaurant - rolled home, again, uncomfortably full.

27th January - early start to the day, 7.30am, and walked the 30 mintues to the Cemetary, hoping to find Eva Peron's grave. Spent a while looking around the cemetary site, though despite following the directions in the book to find her bit, we're still lost. Things become clearer when Paul marries up the name of the cemetary we need to be at, with the one we are actually at. You've guessed it. It was a nice place anyway, if not the wrong one.

Dropped our valuables off on the way back, before getting on the Subte (Metro/subway) towards La Boca. By the way, the 'underground' system is very efficient and really cheap - we felt absolutely safe too. Took a taxi from the subway, just 5 minutes to La Boca, home of the Boca Juniors.

Known for its multicoloured buildings, painted using any leftover paints from the shipyards nearby, the tourist area was quite busy, but interesting. Many restaurants luring tourists in with Tango dancers outside.

Whilst wary of walking outside of the obvious tourist areas, we walked down to the BJ stadium, and stepped inside the museum area. No match on today, hopefully we'll catch something when we return to BA at the end of February. Interesting murals decorate the outside of the stadium, and despite no game today, plenty of folks around and in the team shop.

Taxi and tube back towards Centro, and we make our way to the Recoleta area, where we'll make a proper visit to the cemetary where Eva Peron rests. Very impressive site - huge marble family monuments, though sad to see some in a poor state of repair. There was a small crowd continually gathered around Eva Peron's tomb.

Sat down for an icecream after all the walking - Chris and Julie taxi it back, Paul decides that his 3-scoops demand sweating off, so he walks the hour or so back to Palermo.

Relaxed back at the accomodation, before the girls enjoy their second Tango lesson.

In the evening we head off to the outskirts of San Telmo for an evening of guitar music, courtesy of Juanjo Dominguez, and Hugo Rivas. Incredible stuff, never seen guitar played so perfectly before. Really enjoyable evening - bought a couple of his CD's.

Afterwards, we had hoped to visit a Milonga (tango club), but the one we planned to visit was closed, for maybe a private lesson.

Didn't bother trying to finds another, and jumped in a taxi for the 100mph ride home. Arrived safely and seemingly a few minutes before we actually left!

28th January - Up early again, enjoyed our lovely breakfast. Chris and Julie not so fussed about having cakes so early, but Paul more than happy to take their share.

Tube'd it to San Juan station and walked down to Plaza Dorego to visit the antique market. The market continues along Defensa, and is closed to traffic, so we enjoyed a lazy stroll amongst the crowds.

Stepped inside the Basilica de Santo Domingo (18th Century - British sought refuge here during the invasion of 1806 - shrapnel marks still evident in teh left tower).

Visited Cafe Tortoni again, this time enjoyed some coffee and cream. Watch a waiter enjoy the last dregs of someones wine that had been left on a table. Hmm, classy.

From Catedral station we head to the big park area of Plaza Italia. Chris and Julie walked from here to the Eva Peron Museum. Certainly an amazing woman - her father died when she was young - she and her mother came to BA, where she got herself into films. Married Juan Domingo Peron (the President in 1946) and became a hugely popular first lady. She formed a powerful social assistance foundation, known as Evita, which helped lower class women - she also fought for the right to vote.

Tragic that she died of cancer at 33 and very odd that the military took her body and secretly buried it until eventually handing it over to her family who finally laid her to rest in the cemetary in Recoleta.

It's Julie's last day today, so back at the room there's some frantic packing and we all head off in a taxi to the airport.

We stayed around until Julie went through security - some last minute tears. Of course, the girls only, I'm a bit too tough for all that.

Later that evening, back in town, we find a food court above the big supermarket in Palermo and eat heartily, with change from GBP3.

29th January - and then there were two, again. Today is the day we join our group trip from here in BA, up to Rio de Janeiro. This is our second Exodus trip - hopefully this'll be as good as the last one, through Tibet and China.

After (Chris) doing a bit of laundry, we head off to find the Majestic Hotel (our meet point for the trip). We find out that we're not on the same truck as Sonja (our leader in Asia), though it looks like there's two trucks going up at the same time.

Annoyingly find out that we need to bring our passports, so need to go back and get them. On the way back, stop in Recoleta and treat ourselves to the cinema.

Got our tickets for Babel, after ensuring that it is in English. Of course, the English bits are (in English), however, we forgot about the Japanese, Moroccan and Spanish bits which are subtitled for the locals. Despite this setback, the film mostly made sense, to the extent that we left the cinema mildy depressed. Certainly not a comedy.

Cheered ourselves up with some food at the Galeria Pacifico, before joining our group at the pre-departure meeting. Please be a good group. Please. Please.

Only 8 of 18 show up for the meeting, all seem fine. Meeting not off to a great start when we're given the trip itinerary and it shows that we're in BA for 3 days, when we were expecting to be heading out of town tomorrow - as the trip notes say, if you want to see BA, get in a few days before the trip starts. Others in the group also not happy about the proposed itinerary. Our point is made, though it sets a negative tone for the rest of the meeting - shame, as everyone is still excited.

After the meeting we head off to Cafe Tortoni to book a Tango show for the next night - nice Sarah from our group joins us, and we go via coffee and cake at McDonalds.

Continues on next thread.....

The 20 hour stay in Santiago Airport before flying up to Quito (via Quayaquil) was not too bad, though glad we were able to padlock our stuff to our sleeping bench overnight.

The airport was pretty busy/noisy until about 11pm, then we had the place to ourselves, with only a handful of other cheapskates sleeping over.

Surprisingly comfy - Paul managed to kip until 10am, though Chris had been wandering around since the crack of dawn.

Bit of a drag waiting until our flight mid-afternoon, but no problem and we arrived in Quito, Ecuador at 9ish, where we met Christine´s sister, Julie, who arrived about 30 minutes before us.

Friendly lady at the airport sorted us with a taxi ($6) into town and phoned ahead for our room at L'Auberge Inn ($22 for a triple/private facilities), which is located conveniently between New and Old Towns. Easier than expected, a all had a good nights sleep.

Spent our first day mainly in Old Town, struggling somewhat with our basic Spanish, though getting by okay. Enjoyed a late breakfast at Fruiteria Monserrate, and rescued by a friendly local who spoke English.

After some sightseeing in Old Town (pretty architecture and busy little streets) we walked back through to New Town to try and find the Rio Amazonas Hotel, where we kick off our Galapagos trip.

Not the most exciting evening - emails/blog and M&M´s.

Saturday 6th Jan - Up earlyish to repack for the move to New Town - got ourselves a nice room at the Rio Amazonas. Breakfast at the friendly Kallari, then back to Old Town for more looking around, and some ice cream. Splashed out on engagement rings at the weekend market - got the chap down to $2 for both! Of course, for temporary use until we get home.

Visited the beautiful Church of San Agustin - 17th Century, where the Declaration Of Independence (from the Spanish) was signed, on 10th August 1809.

Then onto the Cathedral situated in the Plaza Grande, where there is the tomb of the Mariscal Sucre (officer of Simon Bolivar, the Venezuelan Liberator).

The friendly, but armed, guards at the Presidential Palace let us in for a peek, then on to the Monastery of San Francisco. Sadly there´s some building works going on, so the ceiling is covered. This is Ecuador´s oldest church, from 1534, and finished 70 years later.

Chris and Julie continued the sniffing around and went to La Compania de Jesus - gold throughout (7 tons used to gild the walls).

The girls enjoyed meringues/pastries/brownies and coffee after all the walking. Must be the altitude, some 2800 metres.

Met our Galapagos group (16 of us) back at the hotel, seem a nice, mixed, bunch, then crashed in front of the 80-plus channels, making the most of learning from the Spanish subtitles.

Galapagos trip - Day 1. Up at 5.30am. That´s 5.30am. A quick brekkie at the hotel, then on our way to the airport at 7.

Chaotic scenes at the airport, but we get away on time, though stopping at Quayaquil on the way to the islands. Arrive in Baltra at 11am, after gaining an hour.

The islands look desolate as we come in to land, and there´s plenty of cacti around. Usually looks greener later in the year.

The trip gets off to a good start - sea-lions and marine Iguanas at the port where we get our dinghys to the cruiser.

The boat is great, our cabin is small but perfectly formed. She´s called ´Pelikano´, one of several vessels operated by our tour company, GAP.

No time to hang round - we soon set off towards Santa Cruz island and reach the island by dinghy. Beautiful golden sand at Bachas Beach, though lots of other tourists around.

From the beach we saw - Sally Lightfoot Crabs, vivid red and blue colours, Marine Iguanas sunning themselves, also some mating turtles out in the surf. Lots of monstrous Pelicans diving around us for their catch of the day. A little inland we see a small group of Flamingoes in a lagoon, with Blue Footed Boobies flying above.

On the beach we saw Green Turtle tracks leading up to their nests - we learn that only 1% of hatchlings survive - too many predators around, whether on land, sea or from the air.

Got into the water for some snorkelling - various fish, quite a size, though not particularly pretty coral.

Back on board by 4.30pm - sat around chatting and munching. 6.30 is the time we look at tomorrows schedule - lots on! Meet the crew and enjoy a creamy cocktail. Great dinner, hopefully a good sign for the coming days.

Some stargazing on the topdeck after dinner, then an early night in our cosy airconditioned cabin.

Day 2 - 7am breakfast, then a beach landing on Sombrero Chino Island. There´s a Galapagos Sealion colony here, with lots of pups around, some only a couple of weeks old. Whilst we keep a distance, it´s amazing to get so close - doesn´t seem to bother the wildlife at all.

Lots of mating signs being given off by the Marine Iguanas, which quite happily live side by side with the sealions. Lots of frantic nodding going on by the ´hot´ males, who also develop a greener shade of colour in mating season.

Also here, more crabs scuttling around, as well as Lava Lizards (of course, these islands a result of volcanic activity thousands of years ago).

A couple of Hawks around, including one with a fresh catch of Iguana.

Snorkelling off the dinghy follows - turtles, puffer fish, white tip reef sharks (at least a couple of metres long, though happy to learn that they´re vegetarians).

Sailed on to Bartolome Island, had lunch onboard, then siesta time till 2pm.

The dinghy took us to the rocky shoreline, spotted several Galapagos Penguins, the 2nd smallest in Penguin circles. Snorkelling, we saw 3 HUGE turtles, stingrays, then 2 penguins and a sealion - fantastic! Sealion came within inches for a sniff around. Not such an encounter with the shy penguins, who dart around swiftly.

Back on board, quick shower before returning to land and seeing the volcanic landscape, and the ´pioneer´plants, such as the cactus. These are the hardy species that first ´settled´on the islands. Nice view at the top of the island, of the surrounding bays.

Onboard, briefing ahead of another yummy dinner. Can´t believe what we´ve seen and experienced today - go to bed on a high, though suffer curious dreams....

Day 3 - Sailing to James Bay (Puerto Egas) in the early morning, cruising at 6.30am. Black beach here - more sealions, happy that were walking amongst them.

Along further we see more Marine Iguanas, with one swimming on the surface. Fingers firmly crossed that we´ll get to see them underwater, chomping on seaweed.

Fur-Sealion colony here - poor critters nearly hunted to extinction for their skins. Also here, migrant shore birds and cheeky mockingbirds, finches, doves and Lava Herons.

Breakfast back on board, and set sail to Rabida Island - HUGE pod of Bottlenose Dolphins cross us along the way. Must have been hundreds out there.

Red beach at Rabida. Snorkelling along the rocks - stone scorpion fish, conch cone with bright pink animal inside, also starfish. Then, we hear shouts of Manta Ray! Unfortunately didn´t get too long in its company, but a first for everyone here - what a sight in the shallow water. Unforgettable, and a rare treat. In 10 years of diving we´ve yet to see a Manta Ray.

After lunch we´re off to Santa Cruz - on the way we´re treated to acrobatic displays by the jumping Mantas, as they try to rid themselves of any parasites hitching a ride. Beady eyes on top deck looking for more dolphins and Mantas.

After dinner, we head onto land for a couple of hours - surprised at the level of occupation around the port - some 16000 live on this island.

Another great day!

Day 4 - Breakfast at 7 am, then onshore for a visit to the Darwin Research Station, where we meet Lonesome George, the only one of his giant tortoise species left from the Island of Pinta. Also lots of other giant tortoises, with different types of shells - Domes, Saddlebacks and Intermediate. Unfortunately we weren't allowed to ride any of them.

Also at the Station are several Land Iguanas, who are coloured a lot more pretty than the Marine ones, with a bright orange skin.

We learn that there were once 250,000 giant tortoises in the archipelago, but this number tumbled once man got involved, using their fat for oil and food. Also animal species introduced to the islands (dogs, cats, goats etc) have had a massive impact on the flora and fauna, and there are now many schemes to return the islands to their former status. Unfortunately that does mean the unwanted animals are hunted down as part of the eradication.

A programme continues at the station to rear tortoises before relocating them back on to the other islands - gender can be determined by the temperature during incubation, ie, 27.5 degs for males, and 29 degs for females.

Before returing to our vessel we had a couple of hours to kill in the port town, which included a reconnaisance mission for chocolate. $8 worth.

Lunch back on board, then our second excurion of the day returns us to land, and the short journey to the Highlands, where we meet some wild tortoises, and some birdlife, including the Vermillion Flycatcher, who is a striking red and black colour. Apparently we were lucky to see him/her today.

Visit the nearby lava tunnel, where a resident Barn Owl is there to meet us, though he's quite content to remain with his back to us.

Onboard we meet up with the 6 new folks who have joined our party for the rest of the trip. Nice bunch, so lots of happy sailors.

Our first overnight sailing tonight, to the island of Floreana. Hope it's nice and calm...

Day 5 - Yeah, overnight conditions not too choppy, most folks sleep through the night - several wearing sea-sickness bracelets.

So, Floreana (or Charles) Island - beach landing at Cormorant Point, which has a brown sadny beach, lots of sealions.

Behind the beach is a flamingo-populated lagoon, at least 60 live here.

Walked to the other side of the island, white beach. Greeted by several large turtles out in the surf, also many small stingrays buried in the sand in the shallows.

Later in the morning, we snorkel around Devil's Crown - conditions on the surface pretty choppy, and several mouthfuls of seawater find their way down the snorkel during the session.

Huge shoals of big fish here, but excited to see 5 White Tip Reef Sharks below us. Also, bright yellow Guinea Fowl Puffer fish.

After lunch, and a short sail up the coast of the island to the next bay, we set foor on Post Office Bay. So called, after a Post 'Barrel' from 1793 where sailors would leave their mail to be collected, and hopefully delivered home.

We all left a postcard addressed to home (no stamps, that's the point) and we'll wait to see if any tourists come through who live near us for a hand delivery. Seems that some folks leave cards to pick up again on their next trip to Galapagos, maybe many years later!

Just inland we visit a deep lava tunnel, and walk the 80 metres in torchlight to the end, where seawater enters.

Snorkelled off the beach - not the best a little cloudy, and minimal life to see - a couple of puffers, and small Moray eels.

After dinner, most of the group congregated on the top deck for star gazing. Very peaceful, other than the airconditioning unit buzzing away at the front of the boat.

Another night crossing, this time over to Espanola (or Hood) Island. The most southerly in the archipelago.

Day 6 - Not a great night, a little rough and tired faces over the breakfast table.

Land at Suarez Point - lots of Galapagos Sealions, a Red Marine Iguana colony, Nazca Booby colony, and Blue Footed Booby colony.

Unexpectedly we also saw 4 Waved Albatross, though sadly having a siesta, rather than flapping around in the sky above.

Cheeky Mockingbirds making a beeline for our water bottles here.

Many gulls, Tropic Birds and a Hawk around us.

A sad sight - a juvenile Nazca Booby had been attacked by an adult Booby (the perpetrator was standing nearby with a bloody beak) and several Mockingbirds were pecking at the large wound at the back of its head. We learn that the adults can only cope with one juvenile, therefore, the unwanted are, in one way or another, killed.

Interestingly, the Boobies incubate their eggs by using their feet, rather than sitting in them.

Lucky to see the mating ritual of the Blue Footed Booby - a whistling noise, combined with some flapping, then a tasteful/comedic dance.

A few lava lizards hanging onto the sides of the high cliffs, also an impressive blowhole below.

Sail on to Gardner Bay, then lunch.

Opportunity here for the scuba divers to get into the deep, so Chris and Julie go off with a couple of other to a nearby dive boat, Emcantada.

The rest of us head off in the dinghy for some snorkelling - again, a little choppy, and not the prettiest of sites, though we are treated to a fairly quick sight of 3 Hammerhead Sharks underneath us. Unfortunately not all the group saw them, though Paul glad he did. Other than a few fish, only other highlight was an Eagle Ray. Not forgetting a jellyfish sting to the neck.

The dive group join us in the water, and we learn of their uneventful trip - no Hammerheads, or anything of particular interest.

Not only that, the dive itself was a (dangerous) shambles - broken equipment, poorly led dive against strong currents, no-one's credentials were checked. To cap it all, our guide Walter (who in every other aspect had been very good), seemed to not really care about the feedback he was given.

Last stop of the day was to the nearby long sandy beach - mucho sealions, a Mockingbird stand-off, and the biggest surf seen on the trip. A nice finish to the day.

After dinner, we're called to the side of the boat to see a sea snake alongside us, thankfully several feet away.

Another overnight sail to Santa Fe Island.

Day 7 - Spied several Golden Rays of the side of the boat, then wet landing after breakfast.

Saw Pallidus Land Iguanas, one eating his way through a prickly pear cactus 'leaf' that had fallen to the ground. Interestingly, the Pallidus Iguanas have lost the ability to climb, therefore having to wait for things to fall down to them.

Our last snorkel session followed, this time straight off the back of the boat and a short swim to the low cliffs, where several sealions played in the water, and around us. One tugged at Chris' fin, another sniffing around the underwater camera.

Sailed on to South Plaza Island (with a pod of huge Bottlenose dolphins riding the bow on the way), where we saw Land and Marine Iguanas live together. Hybrid species are produced when the larger/dominant male Marine Iguanas romance with the female land ones.

Colourful vegetation - red fauna and cacti.

Saw several Bachelor sealions taking it easy. These are the fellas that are hounded off their turf.

Birdlife - more red billed Tropicbirds, monstrous Pelicans, gulls and Frigates.

Sailed on and though Canal Itabaca, where whilst waiting for our water tanks to be refilled, we watched as a few Pelicans swam around a nearby boat, occasionally scooping up some unsuspecting fish.

Reminded ourselves, whilst watching the sun begin to set, that this was our last night. Boo-hoo.

Sailed to North Seymour Island, where we parked up for the night.

Day 8 - an early start on this last morning, and on land by 6.30am. Again, more sealions and Iguanas, though the additional view today - nesting Great and Magnificent Frigate birds. Male frigatebirds are black with a patch of red skin at the throat that is the gular sac. During courtship display, the male forces air into the sac, causing it to inflate over a period of 20 minutes into a startling red balloon.

The mood a little subdued this morning (except Mandy, always smiling) - a good sign that everyone has enjoyed the trip. No-one in a hurry to get back to the pick up point for the dinghy.

Onboard we finish packing, settle the bar bill - then, it starts to pour with rain.

We moor up in the bay where we started a week ago, and get back onland for the bus ride to the airport.

Bit of a drag waiting 3 hours before flying, then the additonal delay flying to Quito via Guayaquil. Also, we lose an hour on our way back.

After freshening up at the hotel, most of us meet for a meal in Quito, at the Magic Bean. A nice finish to the trip, with a nice bunch of folks.

Monday 15th Jan - our last full day in Quito, meet up with Duncan and Rachel for brekky and agree to meet for a taxi to take us to the Panecillo. We could walk it, but we're warned that the walk up is a little dangerous and we could be mugged.

Surprised to see Mandy return to the hotel - was due to fly this morning, though her flight was cancelled....6 months ago. Quite odd as our GAP rep assured us all that our flights had been reconfirmed, and no changes. At least she can join us for the day ahead of her flight this evening.

Nice views from the top, looking over Old Town, with New Town in the distance. The city looks huge from here.

Then, back in the taxi up to Teleferiqo, where we catch a cable car up a further 2500 metres up Volcan Pichincha, to the top of Cruz Loma. Wow, back at 4100 metres, and feeling it as we walk around, slowly. Again, nice views of the city from the top.

In the afternoon, Paul wasted 3 hours waiting for our piccies to be put on DVD, whilst Chris and Julie stepped out for a bit of light shopping.

Tears (or Hayfever perhaps) from Rachel as we say goodbye to her and Duncan - hopefully we'll see them again, in New Zealand....

Dinner that night back at the Magic Bean...yummy, though 3 of us leave feeling uncomfortably full.

16th Jan, our last day in Quite (until we return in a few months) - Chris and Julie meet up with Samantha from our Galapagos trip and pay a visit to Capilla Del Hambre (Chapel of Man) and the gallery of Oswaldo Guayasamin, with his pictures as a tribute to human kind. Not a lot of fun - the art depicting the pains suffered by those under cruel dictators and/or poverty. Covers not only South America, but India and Africa. Odd that we saw pictures of teh artist with Fidel Castro and Chairman Mao. Apparently, he hated Pinoche.

A mural there is dedicated to the people (slaves) who lost their lives in the silver mines in Bolivia. The museum was opened after the artists death in 1999, with some of his work being finished in clay from drawings.

Also, saw the outside and garden of his house - lovely old car stored there, as well as his ashes, which are buried next to a small shrine.

Spent some time in the aftrenoon catching up with the blog, and eating the free cookies in the hotel reception, before heading from the hotel to the airport for our 8.30pm flight to Buenos Aires, via Lima.

Not sure of the name of the international airport in Quito, but it could easily be pronounced 'Shite-hole', and we pay US$38 for the privilege of leaving the place.

A little panic shortly before we're due to board - Julie's name is called out and it appears that teh security guys want to check her bag. Turns out to be here checked-in luggage and we get a little anxious as 20+ minutes passes, and we're called for boarding. In the end, no panic, and they let her through with her Nicotine pills. No internal searches required. This time...

Thanks to the nice lady at check-in, we score exit seats, which we believe are for the first leg to Lima - wrong! After a short wait in Lima we board for the longer journey to BA - Paul beaming as he's in legroom heaven. Of course, disappointed to see a lack of personal TV's. Miserable git.

Buenos Aires continues on next exciting thread.....