Jan 2007

28th December, Thursday...

Touched down on the remote Easter Island mid-morning, for the start of our last continental leg in South America.

Thankfully, the local hosteliers meet the arriving passengers, making it just that bit easier to secure accomodation, though we did worry that, being New Year, it may be tricky getting a bed.

No problem, and we briefly haggle the price down to US$290 for 6 nights, with breakfast and our very own bathroom facilities at Martin Y Anita. Martin is a friendly chap and agreed to help with our Spanish during our stay.

Similar to other islands in the South Pacific, it´s pretty small and it´s just a few minutes drive to the main urban area of the island, Hanga Roa. The guesthouse has a nice green garden area and our room is fine. Pleased to meet Michael and Stephanie

After a night of travelling and little sleep, we snooze the afternoon away, then at 5 ish we walk to the ´centre´ for a nibble, finding a small restaurant serving pizza. Where we come from, a pizza is round, rather than triangular, so feel a little diddled out of our 6 other slices. The food is nice all the same and we´re joined by two friendly dogs, who don´t understand English.

Of course, the mystical stone statues/sculptures (Moai) are the big draw on Easter Island, and we find our first group closeby along the coast, a few minutes walk from town at Ahu Tahai. The statues have been restored to their original glory, spread over three Ahu (platforms), after suffering damages from previous times - there´s several headless stone carcases lying around the island.

Unlike Tahiti, we´re blessed with long daylight hours, and enjoy the sun until past 9pm. The surrounding countryside very green, with lots more trees than we expected (they were mainly uprooted over the ages). In turn, there´s still a few birds flying around.

Up late on the second day, meeting Michael and Stephanie at breakfast - bread, cheese, ham, fresh juice, tea, coffee etc, as well a bit of sponge cake.

Not in a great rush today, and pleased to chat with the guys until midafternoon before visiting the small, but interesting, museum - of course, dedicated to the history of the island, in particular the history of the Moai, and theories as to their coming.

We read that 2 civilisations formed here, ´possibly´ from SE Asia and built the large stone altars (Ahu´s) and the sculptures (Moai) to honour their ancestors. They usually face inland, despite being often located on the coast. There´s also some, but less, female sculptures - no particular record as to why.

Also in the museum, various exhibits depicting daily life - carved wooden tablets, tools, household items.

By the way, whilst it doesn´t particularly feel it, we´re pretty remote, 1900 km from Pitcairn Islands and some 3700 km from the mainland.

Walked back along the coast, before a bite to eat, then classroom time and to listen to some Spanish. Decide that swatting up until late at night isn´t good for getting you to sleep.

Day 3, slept in, again, before catching up with real life on the internet. Saddam Hussein has been executed.

The island, whilst small, really needs to be expored on a tour, or with a vehicle, so we sniff around for a good deal on a jeep. Not much luck, though we get booked for New Years day, for US$72 for 24 hours. Again, considering our remote location, this could have been a lot more expensive, like Tahiti.

Later in the afternoon, took a walk for several km´s north up the coastal track, though not a great deal to see - lots of horses and cows. And cowshit and horseshit.

Had hoped to see the cave that had formed a window in the cliff face, but it was elusive today.

In the evening, went for late dinner (can´t remember the name of the place, but it was always busy) and had the best meal in a few days. Michael and Stephanie joined us for a drink.

Day 4, New Years Eve - tried to reconfirm our flight at the LanChile, but it was closed. With the limited flights coming through here, we realised, a bit late, that we should get more organised!

Took a walk south along the coast, further Moai and one of those signs with different places pointed out, such as Sydney 10,000kms. Please excuse the inaccuracy in that example.

Whilst not really a beach nearby, we took the Ipod to the coast and listened to more Spanish. Still struggling with verbs. What the hell is an 'adjective'?

Back at the guesthouse we tuck into some cheap Chilean wine and pseudo-Pringles, enjoyed during a game of Uno.

Met with Michael and Stephanie at 8pm and headed down for dinner, same restaurant as last night.

Limited choice on the menu, but tasty stuff nonetheless, followed by dreamy Tiramisu and Icecream. The night went by quicker than planned, so had to secretly crack open our champagne at the reataurant at midnight. Not the most raucous of occasions, but with lovely company, and pleased to be tucked away in the middle of the Pacific Ocean.

Here´s to 2007 and warm wishes to our families and friends back home.

Shortly after midnight we make our way towards the beach area, armed with more wine and Pringles (sour creme and onion) and chat until past 3...

1st January 2007 - up late, and enjoy breakfast with fellow guests Les and Viv.

Picking up our rental jeep today at 2pm, and happily agree to Les and Viv joining us for the afternoon.

Start off along the South Coast, along a bumpy/potholed road, stopping at Rano Raraku (the Nursery), where the Moai were cut out of the slopes of the extinct volcano. Some 600 Moai (or bits of them) remain here, including the biggest at 21+ metres.

Walked to the top of the crater rim for 360 degree views around the island. Magical, but not like Paul Daniels.

A few minutes away we stop at the Ahu Tongariki - the platform of 15 restored Moai. These were knocked down after a Tsunami back in the 1960's.

Next, along to Anakena beach along with many other Easter Islanders on this holiday-day. Heavy surf, so we keep to the shallows!

Towards the end of the day, we return to the magnificent 15 for sundown and wine, then a final look at the "nursery", under the moonlight.

Day 5 - crikey, up early today to make the most of our few hours with the jeep. Les and Viv join us for a drive to Vinapu where there is an excellent example of an Ahu and its similar carving to that found during the Inca period (according to the very knowledgeable Michael). Also we come across a female sculpture thanks to Michael pointing it out to us.

Next, on to Rano Kau and the 'village', high up on the outer crater edge - gusty up here today. The 'bird-cult' rituals were performed here - whereby the participants swam out to the small islands (Motu´s) to collect bird eggs, and successfully return them ashore.

Heading back to town, as the rain hammers down, we stop at the Lanchile office and get the rest of our flights reconfirmed, also Christine books up for a scuba dive for later in the day.

Back at the guesthouse, we drop off Les and Viv and pickup Michael and Stephanie (by the way, a friendly Austro/German couple) and head out along the north cost track to try and find the elusive cave.

Not quite successful with the cave, though we do locate several other shallow caves.

Several other sites along the way, including Ahu Tepeu, and the seven restored Moai at Ahu Akivi - these are the only examples that look out to sea, rather than inland.

Went to the quarry where the Scoria (Red stone) was sourced for the top-knots - these were the 'hats' that were positioned on top of the Moai.

After using some newly learned Spanish to get the jeep refuelled, we drop it off and head to one of the only fooderies open for a bite. Unfortunately, despite moving our table a dozen times, we fail to find a spot under the tree that isn´t dripping.

After a coffee, we head back to the guesthouse and Christine gathers her bits for the dive, Paul stays in and gets some shut-eye.

Christine´s dive takes her out to Motu (island) Nui and enjoys 50 minutes of pristine coral, though not the most colourful, and 50+ metres of vis. (Visibility!).

Christine now has a new (actually her first) claim to fame - she was diving with a French chap (Orca Dive Shop) who arrived on Easter Island in 1978 with Jacques Cousteau on the boat Calypso. He dived for a number of years with JC - he also holds some record for the highest altitude dive at 5900 metres, in a lagoon in Chile. Whoopee.

The rain hadn't really stopped since early morning, and was chucking it down as we went for, our last, dinner with Michael and Stephanie.

Aaaargh, the Tiramisu place was fully booked, though we got in somewhere nice down the road, though we did return for Tiramisu, though not as nice tonight.

Last day, Day 6 - up early to pack, then Martin drops us off at the airport, a little earlier than we needed (4 hours!) for our early afternoon flight to Santiago, Chile. Quick goodbyes to Michael and Stephanie.

Pleased with our stay on Easter Island, though didn´t get to the bottom of the mystery of the Moai, or where the first inhabitants of Polynesia came from.

Best of luck to Michael and Stephanie on their move to Germany!

Looking forward to using the inflight entertainment on the Lanchile flight - best we used!

Next stop, an overnight stay in Santiago Airport.