Overland trip - more Tibet (Shegar/Shigatse/Gyantse)...

The route away from Everest took us several hours to a a small place called Shegar, where we met back up with the big truck and a waiting rice salad, and the stinkiest toilets encountered so far. Filth!

The afternoon drive and a bumpy road to Lhatse didn't quite go to plan. The Chinese have a different view on how to do roadworks - rather than close off a small bit and allow traffic to get around, they choose to close the whole road - both directions!

Five hours, and after a stream of curious locals climbing the steps to look into the truck, later.....and we manage to get some transport on the other side of the road closure to our hotel at 11pm. I use the word hotel quite loosely - and won't even mention the toilets. Oh goody, we need to be up at 6am the next day for a loooong drive to Shigatse.

Out of the wilderness, we stumble across civilisation and the nearest thing to a western hotel - really, it was quite nice and even more welcoming to know that we'd be staying for three comfortable nights, with a proper sit-down toilet and loo paper.

Shigatse is the second largest city in Tibet and the main attraction is the Tashilhunpo monastery - the seat of the Panchem Lamas. Briefly, the Panchem Lamas are 'second' to the Dalai Lamas.

The monastery is in a huge compound and brimming with chapels and chanting monks. One lasting memory is the smell of burning Yak butter, which is given as an offering by the pilgrims. Additionally, money (small notes!) is liberally scattered around the chapels, tucked here and there - seems to me (Paul) that you need to buy your way into a prosperous future. At least counting the money keeps the monks busy, very busy!

Chris was blown away by the whole religious experience and the kindness of the pilgrims and monks. Chris took the route of the pilgrims around the monastery and was fascinated by the devoted pilgrims spinning the prayer wheels.

Out of Shigatse for a day and to see the Pelkor Chode monastery at Gyantse. Whilst we had been accompanied by a Tibetan guide since the China border, today was the one and only time he gave a little history as we walked around the monastery - a real shame he'd not done so before, local knowledge really adds so much to a place.

Also in Gyantse was a steep walk up the Dzong (a fort), which was the sight of the battle between the British and Tibetans in 1904. The fort also contains the 'Anti-British' museum, giving the Chinese view of the 'invasion'. Felt like the climb to the top of the fort achieved a heartrate bpm of 188...

Paul, Chris and the pilgrims