Nepal/Tibet/China - 4 week overland trip

After meeting our travelling buddies for the next 4 weeks last night, we seem to have a good group and should get on just fine. Curiously, only 10 on the trip, plus 2 drivers/guides (women drivers!), whereas the trip caters for up to 22.

With our stuff all packed away in underseat lockers, we get on the road, making our way out of town - great scenery, and the foul air of the city fading away, though toilet standards as grim as ever. Maybe the facemasks aren't for the city pollution after all...

The first day sees us arrive at something of an oasis - The Last Resort, an out of town haven, both for peace as well as something more adventurous. First impressions for Paul were 'oh my god' as the entry into the resort was across a Jacob's Ladder, with a huge drop, from where you can bungy. Apparently, this is a higher drop than the highest in New Zealand(??) - either way, not fun to cross in the rain.

That said, it was a nice, peaceful, place to stay overnight, and Paul enjoyed an hour or so, full body (back and front - not the middle bit) massage. We both passed up the opportunity to scale down waterfalls in a wetsuit - 'canyoning'.

Next day, making our way to the China (Tibet in truth) border. Fantastic scenery along the way - huge walls of mountain either side, with the numerous waterfalls only enhancing the view - or at least taking your mind off the sheer drops just a couple of feet to the right.

Altitude begins to play a part in our daily routine from here, with warnings that we'd need to drink plently, and do very little in order to acclimatise.

Lots of fun at the border - though not too much to worry about getting out of Nepal. This was our first taste of Chinese red-tape - and to cut a long story short, 29 hours later, we were allowed through. Thanks, China! Seemingly our guide (groups need to be guided through the country) was not going to meet us until the next day, with the necessary travel permit. One grim hotel night later (damp/smelly) enhanced by Snickers and Mars, we finally got away the next afternoon... As we entered China, we were subjected to a short questionnaire, but shocked to have a 'laser-gun type thing' pointed at our heads. Thankfully nothing more than an external thermometer - I'm sure the experience could have been made a lot more personal, and intrusive!

Back on the (bumpy) road, to Nyalam - all recollection of truck/travel now coming back - and we wind our way up to 3750 metres, and the altitude effects start to take their toll on some of the group - and, it's bloody cold up here! Thanks to the people of Kathmandu for making nice warm hooded jumpers!

From Nyalam, we moved onward for our first night camping and the sight of Yaks and multi-coloured prayer flags (a Tibetan speciality). Oh for a 4-season sleeping bag! Almost forgot, tonight our first experience of being a goldfish in a bowl - a goat-herder stood transfixed as we laid out our cooking gear and tents - at least he enjoyed some of our leftovers. Fact - Yaks can't live at less than 3000 metres.

Now up at 4300 metres as we get to Tingri, though after crossing a mountain pass at 5100 metres. To quote Lonely Planet, Tingri is 'a photogenic huddle of Tibetan homes that overlook a sweeping plain, bordered by towering Himalayan peaks' - which is about right, though I'd add that this town is just short of one Clint Eastwood - very Wild-west-like. Chris not very well here, with a little bit of sick. Our room nice and bright, with full-on Snoopy motif.

One strange thing we're experiencing is that, despite the cold at altitude, the sun is very strong - I guess like it is for the skiers out there. Next stop, Mount Everest!

Paul and Chris