Puno/Lake Titicaca - Peru

Friday 18th May continued..

Puno, Peru

The journey from Copacabana through the border (easy and quick) and to Puno was pleasant enough, though we arrive to clouds and a little bit of cold.

Pleased to see an (Globalnet, or something like it) ATM at the bus terminal, though, beware, it'll charge you for the privilege of using it, 4 Soles. Annoying when it doesn't tell you it's going to charge you, and you only take out 20 Soles.

A few minutes away in a taxi we arrive at the conveniently-close-to-the-centre Los Pinos Inn, which seems basic but fine. No cable TV unfortunately, and intermittent warm/hot water - still, clean and cheap enough.

Had a walk around town, quite a busy little place and a few tourists here and there. Looked around the 2 main plazas, and along the pedestrian street, where there's an element of hassle from the restaurants wanting you to eat at their place, and the ever-present shoeshine boys.

Took out a little more money from another bank and got charged again, GRRRRRR, without warning. Finally used a BCP machine and, no charge. Phew, BCP from now on. (Scotiabank are also okay, no charges at source).

Had a nice meal just off the pedestrian street, went for the set menu and scored a bargain 3 course for less than 2 quid. Still, does look as though it'll be costing us a bit more than what we were paying for things in Bolivia.

Main reason for coming to Puno is to get out onto the Lake Islands, so we'll be geting a boat first thing tomorrow. Also found an agency to sell us the Inca Bus ticket, which is a tourist bus that will take us from here to Cusco on Monday, stopping at a few (Inca) sites along the way - quite pricey at USD25, when a 'normal' bus would probably cost 25 Soles, or less....

Found a coffee shop in one of the backstreets and enjoyed some CAKE, we love the CAKE.

Slept 'okay' on the firm beds, ahead of the earliest start in a while - breakfast at 6.30.

Saturday 19th May

It's Paul's birthday tomorrow, and he's getting excited about what surprises he might have in store. Considering the lengths he went to to celebrate Christine's back in October (one birthday card, with sincere words of love included (self-penned), together with 5 Australian Dollars ('go on, treat yourself...') and a petrol
voucher (save $0.05 per litre - she didn't even use it!)) - he has a LOT to be excited about.

Anyway, back to today - it seems to early to get up, but we manage it and, despite it being cold in the breakfast room, it's a nice spread, and we enjoy the scrambled eggs.

The effcient staff sort out a taxi for us and we're ready to go down to the port to negotiate our way on to a boat out to the islands.

There's a bunch of folks trying to get you on their boat, but we stick with one guy and all seems okay. 35 Soles for a return trip out to Taquile Island, via the FloatingIslands (Islas Flotantes), and we get a guide thrown in. It's usually a day trip, giving you a couple of hours (with all the other tourists who arrive at the same time) on Taquile Island, but we'll be staying over, and can catch the same boat back tomorrow - no extra cost.

So, first stop for this sllooooow boat are the Floating Islands/Reed Islands, the home of the Uros people. Built using Totota Reeds, that grow in the shallows of Lake Titicaca.

The islands came about as a result of the Uros people wanting to isolate themselves from the aggressive Collas and the Incas. Strange feeling to step onto the island - a little bouncy - and we're greeted by some locals, though you can already feel the absolutely tourist nature of the visit, though we are sure that the other islands would be occupied in the same way as this 'show home'.

We notice that none of the women are going hungry, but wonder how they get to such a size - perhaps it's Pringles.

Had a talk about daily life from our well-informed guide, and then some free time to walk around the small reed island, and totake up the opportunity to buy some souvenirs.

The islands are generally fixed into a permanent position, though can be untethered and 'sailed' elsewhere - not sure how they are conbtrolled, some of them are really quite big!

We're offered alternative transport to the next reed island (we're seeing 2 today) - on a large canoe made from reeds. We're also treated to a handful of songs from a young girl who comes along for the ride. It's now clear why they wear the bowler hats - very good for collecting tips. Again, quite a touristy experience, though have to admit that it's quite a unique opportunity.

The other island is more of the same thing, though there's a small trout hatchery on this one, as well as a museum, which houses some day to objects, and a stuffed fox-thing.

After just 15 minutes here, we're back on board to 'proper' boat for the journey to Taquile Island. Whilst the views of the lake of very nice, the journey drags a little - another 3 hours or more. Chris takes in the views from the top deck, but Paul happy to stay in doors and to snooze.

Pleased to finally get to Taquile and moor up. Even more pleased to take up the opportunity to buy a Snickers when we docked, before the 40 minute walk up and across the island to the main square.

Taquile has been inhabited for thousands of years - Pukara once inhabited 2500BC - and is located 35 kms east of Puno, about 7 sq kms in size, with about 2000 inhabitants (400 families).

We walked to the main square - similar scenery to Islas del Sol - and very cool to see everyone is traditional dress and with knitting needles in hand, even the men. Taquile is known for its textiles.

The men are wearing the traditional woolen hats (like floppy nightcaps) - if they are married, the hats are all red, and a mixture of red and white if they are 'available'. A hard black hat is a symbol of authority. The men wear a white sheepwool shirt, with a large safety pin under the chin, a black and white waistcoat, a thick waistband (usually with a multicoloured coca bag attached), black trousers and sandals.

The women (all ages) wear multilayered skirts but more noticeable is their black shawl that protects them from the sun.

For once, the men seemed more interesting to look at than the women, especially the men of authority, who gathered near the church, obviously to discuss important island matters(!).

We stayed in the square for a while, and then walked to the other side of the island for a surprisingly good lunch.

As we are staying over, we ae introduced to a man and wife whose house we'll be staying at. It's pretty basic, and no washing facilities - the outside toilet isn't the prettiest site we have seen this trip.

Once we had dumped off our bage, we headed back to the main square, but this time no other tourists around, so very peaceful and nice to see the locals going about their business. Some children, including girls selling wristbands, sat with us and we managed to communicate in a very basic way, including by way of fart noise.

The group around us grew over the afternoon and they asked us to take pictures of them, pulling various faces.

After, we walked up to the Moon Temple, a simple collection of stones, and then further across the island to a great lookout point over the lake. Very calming to sit and watch.

Dinner at our accomodation was again surprisingly good, though very basic, and our first candlelit dinner in a while. One of the other guys on the trip, Matt from Milton Keynes, stayed over to and we had dinner together.

Not much in the way of nightlife on the island, so in bed quite early.

Really glad we stayed on the island, with the place pretty much to ourselves.

Sunday 20th May

Whoopee, Paul's birthday, and he looks good for 30something.

Didn't sleep too well last night, not the most comfortable bed, squeaking at the slightest movement. Breakfast was a treat though, with the first pancakes we've had in a while.

Spent the morning around the square, saw the place change from tranquility to chaos when all the morning tourists arrived. Thought we had found ourselves a quiet spot until a group decided to sit right around us, when the was plenty of space elsewhere. Slowly losing patience with other tourists...

Paul was happy to enjoy the sun in the square, and Chris took herself off to the highest point on the island and enjoyed the views and peace and quiet.

Wanted to make sure we got on the 12pm boat heading back, so got to the port a little early. Pleased that we arrived on the island at the other end, where there's a gradual slope to the main square - on this side there's 500 big steps to climb.

For some reason we left later than scheduled, but pleased to be on the boat and heading back to Puno. This time we both sat on top of the boat - they don't usually let you do this as a couple of tourists recently fell off.

A couple of hours in to the journey and the engine cuts out, and there seems to be a problem getting it going again, though after 15 minuted we're cruising (slowly) again, and heading back toward sthe reed island area.

Spot of luck on the way back and there's a minibus waiting to drop us off at the hotel, though we're the last to be dropped off.

Bit of panic when we're back at the hotel and there's no reservation for us, though thankfully we're sorted and have a bed for the night.

Before dinner we fancy some cake so return to the nice cafe, before a spot of internet.

For dinner we went to a great chinese restaurant - good portions and the first sweet and sour sauce in months.

Glad that we stayed over on Taquile Island - Paul not that interested initially, but a very warming experience.

A quiet birthday, but different, and totally memorable.

Early night, shattered, and another early start tomorrow for the trip to Cuzco.

continues on next thread...