Santiago, Chile

Wednesday 11th April

Santiago, Chile

The journey is fine and the three of us get a fair bit of sleep, before pulling into the central bus station at about 7am. Strangely no movie last night, nor any meal, though we're given some breakfast - cheese and ham rolls, juice etc.

We hang around at the bus station whilst Theresa sorts her onward bus journey to Buenos Aires, another 24 hours away. Gulp. She is convenienty booked on the bus heading out at 10.15 am, so we hang around in the food court nearby and wait until after the bulk of rushhour before making our way into the city.

Goodbyes to Theresa, we've had a nice week with her - once again, we're grateful to be meeting so many good people. Theresa's help with her excellent Spanish has been most appreciated, though the three of us will remember her, on occasion (well, 1), misuse of both mathematics, and English. And she said 'bugger' a lot. Looking forward to meeting up again in London in the summer.....

The metro station is just a couple of minutes away and we're only a few stops from Universitad de Chile station. The metro is still busy, but is fine/cheap, and the journey soon over. A little daunted to be back in a big city and not yet having our bearings.

Went around the houses a bit to find our recommended hostel, though it's actually called Hotel Londres Plaza. A big place, though not sure if it's that busy. We get a double room with TV (not Cable) and view overlooking the cobbled courtyard outside. Breakfast is included and the shared bathroom is fine. A little more expensive than recently at 16,000Pesos (around GBP16).

After checking-in we shower and head out before nodding off. Glad that it's got warmer as we've headed north, though would welcome an extra couple of degrees - either way, it's tshirt weather.

First random observation is the number of blind people we have come across in the first 5 minutes of being out!

Head towards the Plaza de Armas - keeping an eye out for Starbucks, we're sure there's one around and would both enjoy a Frappucino right now.

Also very busy in the city centre - strange for mid morning during the week. We walk on towards the art gallery, Bellas Artes, but don't go in, and instead try and track down the Cerro (Hill) Santa Lucia - a 'rock' in the centre of town, some 70 metres high. Obviously originally a natural feature, though lots of manmade features, and a few buildings. A fortress at the top (that you can't get in), a small church, a huge stone gate, statues and garden features.

The views from the top not particularly impressive, what with the smog all around, blocking the view to the high hills that surround the city, which themselves are the main cause of the smog not escaping the city limits. Whilst the views not that superb, you get a feel for how spread out the city is, and how much of a tiny dent we'll make in it over the next 3 or 4 days.

On the way back to the hostel/hotel, we stop at the San Franciso church, which is actually at the top of our road. It's the oldest church in Santiago, dating from 1618. It's a very simple building, the walls just white-washed. The only really ornate part of the church is the ceiling, which wouldn't look out of place in a stately home.

In one corner of the church is an area that, in one sense, has been vandalised with graffiti, though this must be an accepted way of communicating with God or Jesus - many messages asking Jesus to guard over sons/daughters etc.

Also other messages of 'thanks' to San Francisco and also some curious words of remembrance in respect of deceased dogs. Extraordinary, but we'd be happy to see more of this sort of thing. "our Father, who barks in heaven....Scraps be thy name... ...give us this day our daily chew-stick... ...forgive us our daily poops...etc" I'll leave it there, lest a bolt of lightning strike me down.

For lunch we tried to trackdown Govinda's, an Indian/veggie place. Found it - found it had closed down. Never mind, there's a couple more veggie places in town, and we get a table in one (El Naturalista), though have to wait 10 minutes. Strange to see so many office folks taking lunch way into the middle of the afternoon.

The food is good here, and we're full for 10,000 Pesos, which is a little more than we'd spend for two, especially if no alcohol is involved.

There's a small cinema nearby, and it's 'cheap Wednesday', so pleased to get tickets to watch Spartan gore-epic '300', for GBP1.80 each. Smuggle in some sweets,despite the warning in Spanish that that sort of caper is not allowed.

Enjoy the film, though it's no comedy. Can certainly see the Frank Miller influence - similar use of bloody-ness, as seen in Sin City.

A little tired in the evening, so watch some Chilean telly before an early night. Looking forward to more exploring tomorrow, sooo much to see! Fingers tightly crossed for more blue skies.

Thursday 12th April

Today starts with a 'grande' thank you to my Aunty M who continues to print off our blog and post it through to my ma back at home. Our next cerveza will be 'cheers'd' to you, Aunty Margaret and Uncle John. Of course, we're also pleased that you're still reading about our little diary - sorry there's no pictures!

Whilst on the subject of thanks - cheers Jason for sorting out those muppets at British Gas, and to Piers for emailing the various threatening letters, when British Gas already knew we were out of the country, and ta Neil for letting us know that the Water Company had forced a water meter on you and sneakily fitted it whilst you guys were out. I'm sure a huge leak would have taken days/weeks to see to....

Also, big thanks to Gav for keeping the car ticking over for the last 9 months - I trust that you haven't been doing any wheelspins in my absence!

Of course, closer to home, thanks Ma, for sorting out a whole bunch of stuff, sorry I was blasphemous a little earlier regarding a re-write of the Lord's Prayer. Only three months to go before we're back, and can't wait to see you. Also, Julie, grateful for everything you have done whilst we have been away.

Sorry, that's not an exhaustive list - if you're not mentioned, we do still love you.

Right, back to the trip and, yes, it's a blue sky day.

Breakfast at 8.20am, and after we head straight for the Palacio de la Moneda (built 1805, and restored after the coup in 1973), or 'The Presidential Palace. Watched the ceremonial changing of the guard at 10am (it happens every other day). After the brief change we follow on into the courtyard, though little to see - a couple of old cannons and some stone sculptures. Chris had her picture taken with one of the friendly guards, who, whilst looking quite senior, indicated for Chris to link arms with him.

Thankkfully the guard laughed at Paul's attempt at humour in Spanish - 'Senor, por favor, no tocar...'

On a small mission of our own today - we know there's a few Starbucks in town, though the website doesn't help with directions. No luck trying to find the nearest one, but the walk does lead us to the Palacio Cousino - a large mansion in French Rococo style. Not quite sure what Rococo style actually is, though it's a nice building on the outside.

Dating from 1871, and taking 7 years to build, by Luis and Isadora Cousino (millionaires who made their money from silver mining and wine). The palace amazed Santiago society with it's ultra-modern touches - it has it's own electricity generator and the first lift in the country.

Sadly Luis died from TB at 38, and before the palace was finished. His wife completed the building and lived there, never re-marrying, with her 6 children.

The Palace was bought by the Mayor on the 1940's at a reduced price and it is still used for official receptions. Many dignatories have stayed there, though the only one we can remember is Eisenhower. Sorry!

Queen Elizabeth II was due to stay there in the 60's, but 2 weeks before she was due, a fire destroyed the second floor. Whilst a restoration took place, the municipalidad could only afford to to use pine, rather than mahogany.

The palace is stunning, and the detail amazing. Handmade drapes in each room, tapestries, fantastic artworks. Also chandeliers, including one with 3,000 pieces of crystal, that are individually hand cleaned 3 times a year. All of the furniture was imported from France or Italy, and the main staircase is constructed from 20 different types of marble.

The family monogram can be seen on the curtainsrails, mirrors and doors.

Sweet to see the 'indiscretos' - chairs with three individual seats connected in a circle, designed to accomodate a courting couple and a chaperone.

Well worth waiting the 20 minutes for a tour of the house with an English-speaking guide. It cost 2000Pesos each for entrance, including the tour, and also including some fancy slippers to wear over your outdoor shoes. It felt like we were on a ward.

Later in the aftrnoon we made our way on the metro out to El Golf station, where we think there's a Starbucks. Yep, there is, and we enjoy a Frappucino.

From here we walk out to the nearby (though a 30 minute walk) shopping mall, and did a little light shopping. Managed to find an Apple shop and bought a camera connector, (so to use the Ipod to store photos as a back up). Annoyingly it doesn't work, though it's compatible with both the Ipod and the camera (Canon 350D) - looks lie the Ipod software needs updating. Bugger!

Walked back to the metro, though this time we walk past the Military school. Nothing going on this afternoon, though there's a nice clear view of the mountains that surround Santiago, even though the ever-present smog is there.

Vegetarian dinner, again(!), at El Naturalista - great food again.

After, we pop along, on the offchance, to see if Exodus Kim is at her hotel - conveniently she's in the lobby when we arrive.

Aree to head out to the Bellavista area, just a few minutes away in a taxi, with Kim and Rebecca, who is a leader on another truck.

We find a quiet bar and enjoy some wine and Caiprinha's whilst being entertained by a singer/guitarist. Feel a little awkward that he's not getting our full attention, especially when there's only two others in the whole place. Of course, we clap inbetween numbers - he's actually very good.

Found a second bar where we had some late night nachos. Kim had a steak sandwich, and employed the 3-second rule when she dropped it on the floor.

Back in Kim's hotel room, we try to fix her laptop, and fail.

Walking back to our hostel we are accompanied by a friendly dawg, though we try and shake him to saves his disappointment when he's not allowed into our room. He follows us anyway.

Pleased that there was someone to let us in at 3am, though not the dog.

Friday 13th April

Wake up hungover, and likely to miss breakfast, though luckily there's a few bits and pieces left for us.

Walked out to Parque Metropolitano and climbed up San Cristobal, enjoying views of the spread-out city. A bit of a climb, especially in the heat (though not complaining) - 300 metres up, in total. We would have jumped on the funicular railway, but forgot to get any money out before we left.

Sat at the top under the statue of the Virgin Mary, and enjoyed the slightly smoggy view for a while, before making our way back down to Bellavista.

Both got a bit grumpy walking around, not sure where to eat, but eventually found a place, and ate well, and cheaply.

Took a few photos around town - there's a lot of murals/graffiti on the houses - some actually looks quite good.

Walking back towards town we pass the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (a fine-arts gallery), and decide to go in this afternoon. Not the best selection of exhibits, though the building itself is interesting, with it's 'neo-classical architecture. Was cheap anyway, at 600 Pesos.

Not much happening in the evening - Chris still hungover. Watched CSI in Spanish.

Saturday 14th April

Up late this morning - seem to be sleeping to much, but always good to make the most of it.

Made a couple of calls home today, nice to catch up, but always a pain to find out that there's another problem with an old bill. This time, and now 9 months after we told them we were leaving the country, Harrow Council suggest that we owe them.

Next, went on to the Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino - where there's impressive objects from the pre-colombian cultures of Central America and the Andean region. Most of the objects were in excellent condition - few cracks, bright colours and clear designs. The age of the objects went back to over 500BC, or 500AC as they say here (Antes Christo). A lot of the objects were buried with the dead, so perhaps this explains the reason for their preservation.

Interesting to learn that some of the cultures skinned their dead and placed the bones in urns.

Also, learnt about 'vomit sticks' - sticks that shamen would put down their throats to cleanse their stomachs.

Paul left Christine to go around the museum a second time, at her pace, and sneaked off for a crafty (but tasty) Burger King.

We're heading out of town tomorrow, so organise our bus ticket back at the central station. Not sure if we paid slightly over the odds - 10,000Pesos (initially quoted 15000Pesos) each for the 6/7 hours to Mendoza, across the border in Argentina. We seem to have paid a small commission to a couple of guys that lead us to one of the many companies selling tickets.

A little wary as we hand over the money...

Back on the metro we go along to another fancy part of town, Providencia, though seems like it's not that busy at the weekend - perhaps just busy in the week with the office workers. Pleased to come across another Starbucks - we'll probably not find another until we get to Peru....

The area doesn't seem that great, so we don't hang around and walk back towards home, via Parque Balmaceda, which is a narrow park area, but straddled by busy roads.

Walked to a grotty part of town to get to Iglesia (church) de Los Sacramentinos. The guidebook describes it as a 'gothic church, loosely designed in imitation of the Sacre Coeur in Paris. Hmm. don't know about that, but the inside is impressive - large dome, balconies, and pretty stained-glass windows. Strange that the outside makes it look quite derelict.

After a food court dinner, we went to the cinema to watch disappointing Ghost Rider. Walked back through the pedestrian area to see lots of folk selling all manner of crap at the side of the pavement, and various street performers. Felt just a tiny bit uneasy walking back through the crowds, but got back perfectly safely to our room.

Sunday 15th April

Travelling across the border to Mendoza, Argentina, today, so up quite early to pack and make our way to the bus station for 10am.

continues on next thread...