Puerto Montt and Pucon, Chile

Thursday 5th April

Puerto Montt

Didn't plan for Puerto Montt to have much of an entry on this blog, but on arriving at the bus terminal a few minutes walk from the ferry harbour, we find out that the buses from here to Pucon are all full today. There's only one company that goes from here to Pucon - JAC Buses.

Whilst we buy our tickets for the 10am bus for tomorrow, we hang around for todays 10am to see if there's any spare seats. No such luck!

On the way to the (hostel) information stand at the bus station, we are stopped by Heidi who convinces us to check out her hospedaje just a few minutes away.

Yep, it's fine and we pay 5000 Pesos for a double, that has cable TV - always a crowd pleaser.

After dropping off our stuff, we head into town for a coffee and sniff around. Shame it's quite a grotty day, though not raining at least.

Stopped at a small art exhibition, before Paul sat for a couple of hours to get the blog more up to date, while Chris and Theresa took off in a 'collectivo' (a shared taxi) to the small port of Angelmo.

They met a very talkative lady in an artesenal 'aperitif' shop. Theresa speaks good Spanish so could converse with her - chatting about our 'ugly - except Prince William' Royal family and her perception of European girls. She thought Chris and Teresa were German, as they looked quite 'solid'.

She went on to describe Argentinian girls as the ones with fake boobs, big bums and false eyelashes, also that English girls are 'unemotional' and wear little makeup, whereas Italians are nicely dressed. It was hilarious, talking to her and occasionally tasting her fruit/nut aperitifs. The girls bought a bottle of the 'burnt cherry' one.

Walked around the fish market and saw 2 huge seals in the harbour - though the water had a distinct fuel-film on the top and was surely not helping the eye infection that you could clearly see on one of them.

Got a collectivo back to Puerto Montt and collected Paul from the internet shop - a massive 4 hours of blog done today.

Unsure of whether we could use the kitchen at our accomodation, decided to eat out and had a Pizza Hut pizza in the small shopping mall - made the most of their 2 for 1 deal and sat in the food court until two large ones were finished.

Back in the room, and the three of us sit on the bed and watch The Man in the Iron Mask, eating chocolate and drinking 'Burnt Cherry' liquor.

Friday 6th April

to Pucon

Had to wait ages to use the shower - always annoying when someone is pissing around for 20 minutes in there, especially when you are in fact desperate for a piss yourself.

Enjoyed some home made bread for breakfast, then made our way to the bus station to get our 10 o'clock bus.

Left on time, and Paul managed to grab two seats to himself for the first part of the journey - not a lot of leg room on these JAC buses.

'Okay' scenery on the way up towards the lake District,and pleased to arrive in Pucon, where we're planning to stay for a few days. Always nice to have a base for a bit.

Staying here at 'La Casita', just behind the main street, our double room just 5000 Pesos a night. Got use of the kitchen and there's free internet. There's a communal Cable tv, but it's not working, and who knows what might get fixed over the Easter weekend. Looks like we'll need to make polite conversation over the next couple of days. Tch!

We'll be doing some walking from here, so the girls have a look at the forecast, which shows Saturday and Sunday as 'good', but Monday/Tuesday look like rain/clouds etc.

With that in mind, we book up for the volcano climb for tomorrow, though not the 4am start, but the 7am one. Theresa took aaaagggeeeesss sorting out her equipment It's left that she'll choose from three pairs of boots in the morning, depending on her mood, or whether her feet swell overnight. The trip costs 45,000 Pesos, but we get a discount through the hostel, and pay 40,000.

After, we stop at Mamas &Tapas for some '50% off Mexican food', and 2 for 1 cocktails, though it's not a late nor drunken one ahead of a days walking tomorrow.

Saturday 7th April

Ugh, it's too early to hear the alarm. Faces drop further when we realise there's no hot water for a shower.

Arrive at the Politur shop for 6.45am, to find no other bugger around, except some dogs, and we don't think they have paid for the trip.

No problem, as one of the guides soon arrives, and most others a few minutes later. It's confirmed, the dogs aren't on the trip.

Also, Chris feeling a little anxious of the climb ahead of us - the volcano of just under 3000 metres, and, of course, we'll be going 'up', rather than 'along'.

So, we get our equipment on and the minibus takes us to the park. Thankfully the ski lift is working today (wasn't yesterday), so we skip the first 400 metres, and save an hour and a bit.

Initially, when in town, we thought that the weather might go against us, but a little way up the volcano in the minibus and we're above the low cloud, and a clear view of the volcano (Villarrica) is ahead of us.

At the carpark, with about a million others (perhaps 150-200), we are issued with icepicks (a fair bit of the climb will be over ice, though not literally climbing it), before jumping onto the chairlift over the first part of the volcano base.

Thankfully survive the chairlift, despite it stopping briefly about halfway up. Also survive getting off the chairlift, and avoid one of those 'You've Been Framed' moments.

The whole group walked up the first bit together, taking the pace nice and slow along the narrow ledges. No getting out of breath just here then, but it looks a bit more challenging further up.....

First rest-stop was at a derelict skilift that was damaged during an eruption in the early 1970's - great views from here.

As we approached the snow/ice line, we stopped to put on some crampons, to make our walk a little safer, though we are walking up a fairly steep bank, and it'd be easy to lose your footing and tumble straight to hell. Seemed odd (if not dangerous) that some of the other climbing groups didn't have crampons - we'd recommend Politur on that alone.

The views get better as we climb up, though a bank of cloud seems to be following us up the volcano-side. The walk isn't too tough, and the pace steady and safe.

At the top of the snowline and closer to the summit, we remove the crampons for the last 30 minutes, before getting to the summit at about 1pm ) less than 4 hours walking. Whilst it's been quite hard, it has been easier than we worried about.

Shame so many people at the top, and the gases rising from inside the active volcano aren't too pleasant.

We take some photos of the surrounding country, and after some lunch, we are guided to the other side of the crater where we get a decent view inside. There's not a huge amount of lava to be seen from here, but it's stunning to see (and hear) it gurgle below.

I guess it's quite dangerous up here - no rails or anything, and it's very easy to want to crane yourself just that little bit more over the edge. No casualties today, expect one fashion victim. Theresa is caught wearing her green-lens sunglasses over her bi-focals.

Had plenty of time at the top, before gearing up again for the ascent. First a little walk back down to the ice, and from there we get to slide down the toboggan runs. Not perfect sliding, some of us a little to wide to fit the channel properly, so actually quite hard work in places, chugging yourself along. Equally though, some spots quite steep and you desperately needed to use your icepick to slow you down. Really good fun, if not a little tiring.

Some of the slides separated by a short walk/stumble over the ice. Very glad to use the icepick to steady yourself before tumbling.

Took longer than we thought to reach the rock again, and very pleased to take off the waterproofs and cool down a little.

The final stretch was pretty easy going, but again, seemed longer than you'd think. It probably didn't take much less time going down than up, though of course, we didn't take the skilift down the last 400 metres.

Back at the carpark at about 5pm, and ready for the drive back to Pucon - everyone pleased with a great day.

As we said, the climb seemed quite dangerous in parts, but the (3) guides were very attentive and always keeping an eye out. Another reason to recommend Politur.

Back at the shop to drop off our equipment, we're treated to some drinks and we have a little chat before heading back for a shower. Unfortunately, the showers at La Cassita are not particularly hot.

Dinner at Trewan restaurant in town - really tasty set menu - tomato soup, veggie lasagne and fruit salad. Bargain at 3200 Pesos - really good food.

Picked up some food on the way back (for brekky and another planned walk), and treated ourselves to an early night and some rest for the feet.

Great day, and pleased that the weather stayed so good.

Sunday 8th April

Easter Sunday, not a Cadbury's Buttons egg in sight.

Off to the National Park (Huerquehue) today, for a walk around the lakes. The girls head out to sort our transport plans, and we find that the local bus leaves at 8.30 - it's now 9.30.

Instead, we hire a taxi to take us the hour or so to the park - 3000 Pesos, rather than the 1600 on the bus.

Got to the park for 11ish and did the 3 lakes walk - beautiful, especially on another sunny and warm day. The 3 lakes, Chico, Verde and Toro all pretty and the track easy to navigate, though the first hour was uphill, but easy thereafter, especially after sitting down to scoff some mini easter eggs we got from the supermarket yesterday. Nice, but not Cadbury's

Saw lots of Monkey Puzzle Trees (ie Araucaria Araucana - Chile's National Tree).

No big rush today as the suggested walking time would get us back to the park office for the bus well before 5.30. So, took our time to enjoy the scenery and good weather. Stopped at a few spots - Lago Toro the fave of the day - glad to have no one else around and enjoy the silence, save for a few fish splashing in the lake.

On the JAC Bus at 5.30 for the ride back to Pucon - glad to get seats as we pick up a few locals along the way. In Pucon for 7pm, and the girls find local church to attend Easter Mass. Paul doesn't believe in God, instead he sits outside and does some good deeds of his own - strokes a dog and helps a boy put his bike on a trolley he is trying to push.

Theresa heads back to the hostel and Paul and Chris go back for some tasty food at Trewan - today, veggie risotto for the lady and Paul has some chicken he's been craving for days.

Chatted with some folks back at the hostel, did some internet and went to bed - the feet really feeling it after today. The cracked heels not wanting to sort themselves out.

Monday 9th April

Weather forecast spot on - it starts raining in the middle of the night and literally doesn't stop all day.

Theresa doesn't bother with a trip to Villarrica, and we meet up mid-morning to try and formulate a plan, though it is cosy sitting around the wood-burner.

Needed to get hold of some cash, and overlooked the holiday weekend and that the ATM's would perhaps run out of cash. Tried 6 and failed, before Paul clicked that there might be an ATM (and one that takes Visa) at the casino. AAhhh, that 'counting sound' - we love it.

With a pocket of cash, we can now buy our bus ticket for tomorrow, to Santiago. It'll be an overnight bus, and our first Full-Cama experience - we'll have a bed on the bus!

Thankfully we're staying another night in town as the company double the ticket prices over the weekend. When we first asked yesterday, full cama was 34000 Pesos, however, Tuesday's bus will cost half that. Tuesday it is, and we don't even bother trying to save a few pounds on semi-cama.

Back for late lunch at Trewan and the set menu again, this time, lentil soup, veggie quiche and fruit salad. The quiche is, truly, the best we have had ever.

Had no plans for later that afternoon, and agreed to head back to the hostel with some snacks and enjoy the wood-burner and chit-chat. Picked up some dog biscuits to feed some our 3.5 legged friends (limping = half a leg) - they seem pleased, but then we can't shake them off and they follow us around. So we shoot them. Not really!!!! Or did we......

The rain didn't stop all day, but it was nice just hanging around the hostel, by the wood-burner.

Tuesday 10th April

Didn't bother getting up too early, no big plans for today, though we hope to see some of Pucon itself. Teresa went off to Tumuco, a couple of hours away by coach/car - we made our way into town. Weather not great today, especially compared with teh first 2 days in Pucon.

Yesterday we saw an internet cafe that does camera pictures to DVD - we need to get some transferred across, but Paul always dreads this deed, it always seems to take hours. At least it's quite cheap here, and the guy suggests it'll take an hour...

Kim (the tour leader from our overland trip) just happens to be at the internet place, and it saves us sending an email to ask 'are you here yet?....'. Pleased to see her and we have a little catch up before getting on with some blog, whilst the memory cards are done.

Plan tomeet Kim in a short while for some lunch. Just for a change, we suggest Trewan... Only four days running!

SOunds like Kim has had some trouble on the last sector, her truck broke down just a couple of hours into the trip. Sounds a nightmare, though all is in hand.

We were thinking about joining up on the trip that goes from Santiago to La Paz (Bolivia), but maybe glad we didn't - the truck is not yet running! Also, we've done some sums, and we worked out that the cost of the Ushuaia-Santiago leg was cheaper doing it all by ourselves. It's convenient being on the truck, but it's been easy getting around so far, and we've not had to camp either, so we'll stick to doing things ourselves in the meantime.

After lunch and a chit-chat, we head off for a walk down to the lake and are joined by a friendly and pregnant dog. Whilst it's dry, it's pretty miserable and the lake doesn't look too welcoming, so not more than a couple of minutes hanging round here.

Picked up some more dog biscuits back at the supermarket, and went back online to catch up further with the blog - we're NEARLY up to date.! Chris sat outside the cafe and was smothered in dogs, who in turn are probably smothered in fleas and ticks. Unfortunately the dogs started to fight over Chris's attentions, so she retreats inside - they in turn sit on the door step and slowly but surely edge their way in.

So, we're now up to date on the blog and we're heading back to the hostel, feeding the little dogs along the way.

Lazed around at the hostel for the rest of the afternoon before making our way, with Theresa, to the bus station nearby, for our overnight (11 hrs more or less) trip to the capital, Santiago. Excited about our full-cama (chair/bed thing) experience - hope we're not disappointed.

We're on the road on time, and yep, it's pretty comfy, though of course not quite the same as a nice bed. Paul's feet/shoes are stinking, so the shoes go in a bag, and the blanket is wrapped around the feet. For the record, Paul's feet are washed everyday. Honest.

See you in Santiago...

continued on next thread...