El Calafate, El Chalten, Los Antiguos - Argentina

Thursday 22nd March

El Calafate

Another early start for a travelling day - back across the border from Chile to Argentina, and the small tourist town of El Calafate. Mike along for the ride - he's flying out of Calafate to Buenos Aires this evening.

The journey not too bad, though another bus with small legroom and seats that recline too far.

Crossed the border into Argentina with no fuss, and arrived in El Calafate by lunchtime. We're booked into the I Keu Ken hostel, which was recommended to us. We're already pleased that we were able to change from a dorm bed to a double room (quite pricey at Pesos120 (about GBP20 a night)).

Very friendly welcome at the hostel, which is a few minutes walk away from town, up a dusty road, though that shouldn't put you off. It's really nice, and we feel very welcome after 2 minutes of being here - the room is nice too, looking back over the town and across the water of Lago Argentino.

We head into town for some food, stopping for slightly expensive, but nice, sandwiches at El bar, before going on to the chocolate factory.

Bumped into Melody and Marcus on the way - they cut their Torres del Paine trek short cos of the weather.

Nice chocolate freebies at the factory, and we get to see some chocolates being made. We then have some more free chocolate.

Bit of shopping in town with Mike, who is looking for a Mate (equivalent of our tea) cup/straw, also some Mate itself. Had a farewell drink with Mike at the hostel before his taxi came for the airport run. Really pleased we met Mike and Susanne - hopefully we'll see them later this year, in either Norway, Germany or London. or all three.

Chris got some information for the various glacier trips, before we went to the big nearby supermarket for some dinner bits.

Friday 23rd March

We were booked onto a trip for this morning, taking a boat out to get close to some of the glaciers in the nearby national park.

Whilst we'd remembered to change the time on the watch as we crossed back into Argentina, we (Paul) forgot to change the time on the phone, which is being used as a backup until the watch battery finally dies.

Of course, the watch finally gave up during the night, and our alarm call was a knock on the door, 5 minutes before our bus was picking us up! Very lucky that we didn't have a more important date to get up for, and we're also very grateful to the guys at the hostel who gave us a call - we wouldn't expect this to happen elsewhere.

So, into the National Park Los Glaciares (entry, 30 Pesos) and on the boat onto Lago Argentino - the largest in Argentina. Annoyingly, we're the last on the boat (there's over 100 people on board) and miss out on window seats. Too many people on board - irritating.

Our first stop was at the magnificent Glacier Speggazzini - impressive, fantastic blue colour. It's one of the highest glaciers - between 80-135 metres high, and 15+ miles long and a mile wide. It's also unique as it continues to show no signs of receeding. The boat feels tiny as we get close to the huge walls of ice.

Moving on, we pass Glacier Seco, a hanging glacier, and then onto Glacier Upsala.

Again, we pass through the water with huge icebergs floating by - all a brilliant blue.

Glacier Upsala is the largest in the National park, and the longest in South America - 37 miles long, with a height of 60-80 metres and 5-7 kms wide. We're told that it is receeding at a fast rate - 5kms in just 20 years. Really stunning - HUGE!

The boat then droppped us off at Bahia Onelli and we took a short trail through the forest to Onelli Lake, from where a further 3 glaciers can be seen - Onelli, Bolado and Agassiz.

The lake was littered with small, grey, icebergs.

After lunch by the lake, we head back to the boat for the return to the port.

Really enjoyed the trip, though the number of passengers was a problem for us - bit of a squeeze.

Success later that afternoon - manage to change the watch battery, though not sure if I've sealed it back up properly, so will keep it out of the water in the meantime.

Grabbed more food from the supermarket for dinner (it's quite pricey to eat out in town), and chatted with some other travellers before bed.

Saturday 24th March

Another trip set for today, more glaciers.

Managed to get ourselves up on time, but the transfer bus arrived early, so a little rush to get out of the door. Paul leaves without brushing his teeth ;(

Our trip takes us back into the National park, but another area. Also, another 30 Pesos each for entry.

This time we're visiting Glacier Perito Moreno, and our first view is from the wooden viewing platforms opposite the glacier face. Wow - we're so close, and as well as a great view, we can now also hear lots of cracking and crashing as the glacier inches it's way forward. Literally, it is constantly moving - 2 metres per day.

Felt very privileged to see this sight, especially to catch some parts of the front of the glacier plunge into the lake in front of it. The scale is HUGE!

Occasionally, the front of the glacier meets with the peninsula, forming an ice dam that obstructs the flow of the water around it. the force of the water eventually produces a tunnel, which ultimately collapses, in spectacular fashion. Unfortunately, we only get to see photographic evidence of the last rupture.

After the view from the front, we drive down to a small port where we catch a boat to the other side and where we'll start our trek on the glacier. At the port we meet up with Tony, who is travelling on the Dragoman truck, and it's very likely we saw him back in Rio a few weeks ago.

Our guide for the ice trek gives us some information about the glacier, before we put on a pait of crampons that will enable safe walking up and over the glacier.

It's quite slow going with the crampons - your feet are kept flat, so walking seems a little odd, but safe with the crampons really digging into the ice. Also, our group is a fair size, 20 or so, and we need to keep quite close together as we ascend the ice.

Lots of beautiful blue cravasses that we walk over, though quite safe - maybe too safe, we thought this might be a bit more of an adventure. Nevertheless, still really cool to be walking across the ice, and the view changes from blue sky and sun, to quite dark grey storm clouds - both giving great contrast when looking ahead.

Whilst the storm clouds were around us, it only spits a little rain and we're treated to a nice 'Famous Grouse' on the rocks ('rocks' courtesy of the glacier) before we make our way back off the glacier. Had less than 2 hours on the ice, but it was a great trip.

Back on the boat, then the coach trip back to town, where we desperately needed some cash to settle our bill before we leave town in the morning...

Sunday 25th March

El Chalten

ZZZzzzz - another early one, 6.30am and we're up to get ready for the bus trip to El Chalten - about 5 hours on the coach. Basic coach, no toilet, but the best legroom yet in South America.

Certainly reminded that we're in Patagonia - the landscape as we drive through is very barren, though huge mountain ranges appear in the distance every now and then.

Just before we arrive in the small town of El Chalten, we stop at the National park office for a short presentation of the various activities/trails in th area.

Checked in at the Albergue Patagonia, with Duron from South Africa, who we met up with in El Calafate, but also at the last Refugio in Torres del Paine. Went out for some lunch (not a lot of choice in El Chalten - very quiet place) and then set out for a couple of short walks from town.

The first took us towards the National Park office, where we stopped to watch a short documentary film of the first climb of Mount Fitzroy, from 1968. The walk was then just behind and up the hill, giving a nice view of the whole town, and some occasianal glimpses of the snow covered peaks in the distance.

Not a great view of Mont Fitzroy from here, a little too cloudy.

Chris didn't join Duron and I for the second walk - choosing to do some research instead for tomorrow and for the Carreterra Austral - she's still struggling to shake a cough and cold from our wet trek in Torres del Paine.

Our short walk takes just a couple of hours and to a pleasant waterfall.

Cook some pasta for dinner, then chat with the folks in the hostel, including a couple who are sharing our room who live less than a mile from us at home!

The wind gets up a little this evening and the creaking carries on through the hostel, through the night. Despite the distraction, we all sleep well, ahead of a lengthy walk tomorrow...

Monday 26th March

So, big walk today and we set off at 10am for the Mount Fitz Roy walk, 'Laguna de Los Tres'.

Chris not feeling on top form but we make good progress, and the beautiful clear sky keeps the spirits up and we look forward to great views.

The first part of the walk is a little uphill, but it's not too bad and we soon get to the first lookout for the Fitz Roy mountain - wow, what a view, it's incredible and we feel so lucky to have the conditions just right - really couldn't be better. Just to the right of the peak, there's also a small (well, it's probably quite big, but compared to the peak it looks small) hanging glacier.

Another nice touch is that today we can see the first signs of Autumn coming and there's a red hint to lots of the greenery around us.

Walking on towards the main viewpoint, another couple of hours away (it's a 4 hour one-way walk to our goal), the trail gets steep and quite tricky, but we all eventually get there for pant-wetting-ly good views of Fitz Roy, and the Laguna de Los Tres. The sun is shining bright, keeping the chill away, just.

Whilst the mount is only 3805 metres, it's an awesome sight and we also spot a glider circling high above.

We made good time on the way up, so decide on an extended route back to El Chalten, which gives more of a loop, than a simple return walk.

This route takes a triangular loop, past two lakes and to a trail giving a great view of the other big mountain here, Cerro Torre. Unfortunately the great weather changed for the last couple of hours,and some low cloud came in, preventing good views of the peak.

Effectively we've completed two walks today, though we could have walked further up the valley to Cerro Torre, but 9 hours was quite enough, thanks.

Finished a great day with a meal a the restaurant next to the hostel - quite fancy, though it seems slightly out of place - too civilised. Really enjoyed the food - first class. Our first beer in a couple of weeks too.

Back in the hostel we chatted with two Aussie girls and an Argentine girl, and learnt some (more) Spanish.

Yep, an amazing day - hard work, but very rewarding.

Tuesday 27th March

Los Antiguos

Were booked on the 9.00 bus to Los Antiguos and said goodbye to chum Doron, who is staying on here a couple more days.

Completely freaked out when we realised we had not paid our second night's accomodation in El Chalten.... eek!

The bus journey was long, didn't arrive until after 10pm, though pleased that the room (Hostel Padilla) was nice - it even had a bath.

The journey was pretty uneventful - mile after mile of gravel road, but comfortable and enjoyed the scenery.

By the way, it's also not a cheap trip - 180 Pesos each - 30 Quid! - again, not even a toilet, though top marks for the legroom.

Stopped at an estancia on the way, saw a family of Guanaco's in the garden attached to the food stop.

Back in the room, we had to share with a couple of ******* (nationality witheld) girls - complete *****!. After we had all spent the day on a bus, we just wanted to get to bed - they were happy to chat with their friends and come back to the room at 12.30 - switch the light on, chat at normal volume, then one of them decides to have a shower, and generally piss around and disturb us. Yep, always difficult when sharing a room, but these twats were the limit.

continues on next thread...