South America - Ecuador - Galapagos Islands

The 20 hour stay in Santiago Airport before flying up to Quito (via Quayaquil) was not too bad, though glad we were able to padlock our stuff to our sleeping bench overnight.

The airport was pretty busy/noisy until about 11pm, then we had the place to ourselves, with only a handful of other cheapskates sleeping over.

Surprisingly comfy - Paul managed to kip until 10am, though Chris had been wandering around since the crack of dawn.

Bit of a drag waiting until our flight mid-afternoon, but no problem and we arrived in Quito, Ecuador at 9ish, where we met Christine´s sister, Julie, who arrived about 30 minutes before us.

Friendly lady at the airport sorted us with a taxi ($6) into town and phoned ahead for our room at L'Auberge Inn ($22 for a triple/private facilities), which is located conveniently between New and Old Towns. Easier than expected, a all had a good nights sleep.

Spent our first day mainly in Old Town, struggling somewhat with our basic Spanish, though getting by okay. Enjoyed a late breakfast at Fruiteria Monserrate, and rescued by a friendly local who spoke English.

After some sightseeing in Old Town (pretty architecture and busy little streets) we walked back through to New Town to try and find the Rio Amazonas Hotel, where we kick off our Galapagos trip.

Not the most exciting evening - emails/blog and M&M´s.

Saturday 6th Jan - Up earlyish to repack for the move to New Town - got ourselves a nice room at the Rio Amazonas. Breakfast at the friendly Kallari, then back to Old Town for more looking around, and some ice cream. Splashed out on engagement rings at the weekend market - got the chap down to $2 for both! Of course, for temporary use until we get home.

Visited the beautiful Church of San Agustin - 17th Century, where the Declaration Of Independence (from the Spanish) was signed, on 10th August 1809.

Then onto the Cathedral situated in the Plaza Grande, where there is the tomb of the Mariscal Sucre (officer of Simon Bolivar, the Venezuelan Liberator).

The friendly, but armed, guards at the Presidential Palace let us in for a peek, then on to the Monastery of San Francisco. Sadly there´s some building works going on, so the ceiling is covered. This is Ecuador´s oldest church, from 1534, and finished 70 years later.

Chris and Julie continued the sniffing around and went to La Compania de Jesus - gold throughout (7 tons used to gild the walls).

The girls enjoyed meringues/pastries/brownies and coffee after all the walking. Must be the altitude, some 2800 metres.

Met our Galapagos group (16 of us) back at the hotel, seem a nice, mixed, bunch, then crashed in front of the 80-plus channels, making the most of learning from the Spanish subtitles.

Galapagos trip - Day 1. Up at 5.30am. That´s 5.30am. A quick brekkie at the hotel, then on our way to the airport at 7.

Chaotic scenes at the airport, but we get away on time, though stopping at Quayaquil on the way to the islands. Arrive in Baltra at 11am, after gaining an hour.

The islands look desolate as we come in to land, and there´s plenty of cacti around. Usually looks greener later in the year.

The trip gets off to a good start - sea-lions and marine Iguanas at the port where we get our dinghys to the cruiser.

The boat is great, our cabin is small but perfectly formed. She´s called ´Pelikano´, one of several vessels operated by our tour company, GAP.

No time to hang round - we soon set off towards Santa Cruz island and reach the island by dinghy. Beautiful golden sand at Bachas Beach, though lots of other tourists around.

From the beach we saw - Sally Lightfoot Crabs, vivid red and blue colours, Marine Iguanas sunning themselves, also some mating turtles out in the surf. Lots of monstrous Pelicans diving around us for their catch of the day. A little inland we see a small group of Flamingoes in a lagoon, with Blue Footed Boobies flying above.

On the beach we saw Green Turtle tracks leading up to their nests - we learn that only 1% of hatchlings survive - too many predators around, whether on land, sea or from the air.

Got into the water for some snorkelling - various fish, quite a size, though not particularly pretty coral.

Back on board by 4.30pm - sat around chatting and munching. 6.30 is the time we look at tomorrows schedule - lots on! Meet the crew and enjoy a creamy cocktail. Great dinner, hopefully a good sign for the coming days.

Some stargazing on the topdeck after dinner, then an early night in our cosy airconditioned cabin.

Day 2 - 7am breakfast, then a beach landing on Sombrero Chino Island. There´s a Galapagos Sealion colony here, with lots of pups around, some only a couple of weeks old. Whilst we keep a distance, it´s amazing to get so close - doesn´t seem to bother the wildlife at all.

Lots of mating signs being given off by the Marine Iguanas, which quite happily live side by side with the sealions. Lots of frantic nodding going on by the ´hot´ males, who also develop a greener shade of colour in mating season.

Also here, more crabs scuttling around, as well as Lava Lizards (of course, these islands a result of volcanic activity thousands of years ago).

A couple of Hawks around, including one with a fresh catch of Iguana.

Snorkelling off the dinghy follows - turtles, puffer fish, white tip reef sharks (at least a couple of metres long, though happy to learn that they´re vegetarians).

Sailed on to Bartolome Island, had lunch onboard, then siesta time till 2pm.

The dinghy took us to the rocky shoreline, spotted several Galapagos Penguins, the 2nd smallest in Penguin circles. Snorkelling, we saw 3 HUGE turtles, stingrays, then 2 penguins and a sealion - fantastic! Sealion came within inches for a sniff around. Not such an encounter with the shy penguins, who dart around swiftly.

Back on board, quick shower before returning to land and seeing the volcanic landscape, and the ´pioneer´plants, such as the cactus. These are the hardy species that first ´settled´on the islands. Nice view at the top of the island, of the surrounding bays.

Onboard, briefing ahead of another yummy dinner. Can´t believe what we´ve seen and experienced today - go to bed on a high, though suffer curious dreams....

Day 3 - Sailing to James Bay (Puerto Egas) in the early morning, cruising at 6.30am. Black beach here - more sealions, happy that were walking amongst them.

Along further we see more Marine Iguanas, with one swimming on the surface. Fingers firmly crossed that we´ll get to see them underwater, chomping on seaweed.

Fur-Sealion colony here - poor critters nearly hunted to extinction for their skins. Also here, migrant shore birds and cheeky mockingbirds, finches, doves and Lava Herons.

Breakfast back on board, and set sail to Rabida Island - HUGE pod of Bottlenose Dolphins cross us along the way. Must have been hundreds out there.

Red beach at Rabida. Snorkelling along the rocks - stone scorpion fish, conch cone with bright pink animal inside, also starfish. Then, we hear shouts of Manta Ray! Unfortunately didn´t get too long in its company, but a first for everyone here - what a sight in the shallow water. Unforgettable, and a rare treat. In 10 years of diving we´ve yet to see a Manta Ray.

After lunch we´re off to Santa Cruz - on the way we´re treated to acrobatic displays by the jumping Mantas, as they try to rid themselves of any parasites hitching a ride. Beady eyes on top deck looking for more dolphins and Mantas.

After dinner, we head onto land for a couple of hours - surprised at the level of occupation around the port - some 16000 live on this island.

Another great day!

Day 4 - Breakfast at 7 am, then onshore for a visit to the Darwin Research Station, where we meet Lonesome George, the only one of his giant tortoise species left from the Island of Pinta. Also lots of other giant tortoises, with different types of shells - Domes, Saddlebacks and Intermediate. Unfortunately we weren't allowed to ride any of them.

Also at the Station are several Land Iguanas, who are coloured a lot more pretty than the Marine ones, with a bright orange skin.

We learn that there were once 250,000 giant tortoises in the archipelago, but this number tumbled once man got involved, using their fat for oil and food. Also animal species introduced to the islands (dogs, cats, goats etc) have had a massive impact on the flora and fauna, and there are now many schemes to return the islands to their former status. Unfortunately that does mean the unwanted animals are hunted down as part of the eradication.

A programme continues at the station to rear tortoises before relocating them back on to the other islands - gender can be determined by the temperature during incubation, ie, 27.5 degs for males, and 29 degs for females.

Before returing to our vessel we had a couple of hours to kill in the port town, which included a reconnaisance mission for chocolate. $8 worth.

Lunch back on board, then our second excurion of the day returns us to land, and the short journey to the Highlands, where we meet some wild tortoises, and some birdlife, including the Vermillion Flycatcher, who is a striking red and black colour. Apparently we were lucky to see him/her today.

Visit the nearby lava tunnel, where a resident Barn Owl is there to meet us, though he's quite content to remain with his back to us.

Onboard we meet up with the 6 new folks who have joined our party for the rest of the trip. Nice bunch, so lots of happy sailors.

Our first overnight sailing tonight, to the island of Floreana. Hope it's nice and calm...

Day 5 - Yeah, overnight conditions not too choppy, most folks sleep through the night - several wearing sea-sickness bracelets.

So, Floreana (or Charles) Island - beach landing at Cormorant Point, which has a brown sadny beach, lots of sealions.

Behind the beach is a flamingo-populated lagoon, at least 60 live here.

Walked to the other side of the island, white beach. Greeted by several large turtles out in the surf, also many small stingrays buried in the sand in the shallows.

Later in the morning, we snorkel around Devil's Crown - conditions on the surface pretty choppy, and several mouthfuls of seawater find their way down the snorkel during the session.

Huge shoals of big fish here, but excited to see 5 White Tip Reef Sharks below us. Also, bright yellow Guinea Fowl Puffer fish.

After lunch, and a short sail up the coast of the island to the next bay, we set foor on Post Office Bay. So called, after a Post 'Barrel' from 1793 where sailors would leave their mail to be collected, and hopefully delivered home.

We all left a postcard addressed to home (no stamps, that's the point) and we'll wait to see if any tourists come through who live near us for a hand delivery. Seems that some folks leave cards to pick up again on their next trip to Galapagos, maybe many years later!

Just inland we visit a deep lava tunnel, and walk the 80 metres in torchlight to the end, where seawater enters.

Snorkelled off the beach - not the best a little cloudy, and minimal life to see - a couple of puffers, and small Moray eels.

After dinner, most of the group congregated on the top deck for star gazing. Very peaceful, other than the airconditioning unit buzzing away at the front of the boat.

Another night crossing, this time over to Espanola (or Hood) Island. The most southerly in the archipelago.

Day 6 - Not a great night, a little rough and tired faces over the breakfast table.

Land at Suarez Point - lots of Galapagos Sealions, a Red Marine Iguana colony, Nazca Booby colony, and Blue Footed Booby colony.

Unexpectedly we also saw 4 Waved Albatross, though sadly having a siesta, rather than flapping around in the sky above.

Cheeky Mockingbirds making a beeline for our water bottles here.

Many gulls, Tropic Birds and a Hawk around us.

A sad sight - a juvenile Nazca Booby had been attacked by an adult Booby (the perpetrator was standing nearby with a bloody beak) and several Mockingbirds were pecking at the large wound at the back of its head. We learn that the adults can only cope with one juvenile, therefore, the unwanted are, in one way or another, killed.

Interestingly, the Boobies incubate their eggs by using their feet, rather than sitting in them.

Lucky to see the mating ritual of the Blue Footed Booby - a whistling noise, combined with some flapping, then a tasteful/comedic dance.

A few lava lizards hanging onto the sides of the high cliffs, also an impressive blowhole below.

Sail on to Gardner Bay, then lunch.

Opportunity here for the scuba divers to get into the deep, so Chris and Julie go off with a couple of other to a nearby dive boat, Emcantada.

The rest of us head off in the dinghy for some snorkelling - again, a little choppy, and not the prettiest of sites, though we are treated to a fairly quick sight of 3 Hammerhead Sharks underneath us. Unfortunately not all the group saw them, though Paul glad he did. Other than a few fish, only other highlight was an Eagle Ray. Not forgetting a jellyfish sting to the neck.

The dive group join us in the water, and we learn of their uneventful trip - no Hammerheads, or anything of particular interest.

Not only that, the dive itself was a (dangerous) shambles - broken equipment, poorly led dive against strong currents, no-one's credentials were checked. To cap it all, our guide Walter (who in every other aspect had been very good), seemed to not really care about the feedback he was given.

Last stop of the day was to the nearby long sandy beach - mucho sealions, a Mockingbird stand-off, and the biggest surf seen on the trip. A nice finish to the day.

After dinner, we're called to the side of the boat to see a sea snake alongside us, thankfully several feet away.

Another overnight sail to Santa Fe Island.

Day 7 - Spied several Golden Rays of the side of the boat, then wet landing after breakfast.

Saw Pallidus Land Iguanas, one eating his way through a prickly pear cactus 'leaf' that had fallen to the ground. Interestingly, the Pallidus Iguanas have lost the ability to climb, therefore having to wait for things to fall down to them.

Our last snorkel session followed, this time straight off the back of the boat and a short swim to the low cliffs, where several sealions played in the water, and around us. One tugged at Chris' fin, another sniffing around the underwater camera.

Sailed on to South Plaza Island (with a pod of huge Bottlenose dolphins riding the bow on the way), where we saw Land and Marine Iguanas live together. Hybrid species are produced when the larger/dominant male Marine Iguanas romance with the female land ones.

Colourful vegetation - red fauna and cacti.

Saw several Bachelor sealions taking it easy. These are the fellas that are hounded off their turf.

Birdlife - more red billed Tropicbirds, monstrous Pelicans, gulls and Frigates.

Sailed on and though Canal Itabaca, where whilst waiting for our water tanks to be refilled, we watched as a few Pelicans swam around a nearby boat, occasionally scooping up some unsuspecting fish.

Reminded ourselves, whilst watching the sun begin to set, that this was our last night. Boo-hoo.

Sailed to North Seymour Island, where we parked up for the night.

Day 8 - an early start on this last morning, and on land by 6.30am. Again, more sealions and Iguanas, though the additional view today - nesting Great and Magnificent Frigate birds. Male frigatebirds are black with a patch of red skin at the throat that is the gular sac. During courtship display, the male forces air into the sac, causing it to inflate over a period of 20 minutes into a startling red balloon.

The mood a little subdued this morning (except Mandy, always smiling) - a good sign that everyone has enjoyed the trip. No-one in a hurry to get back to the pick up point for the dinghy.

Onboard we finish packing, settle the bar bill - then, it starts to pour with rain.

We moor up in the bay where we started a week ago, and get back onland for the bus ride to the airport.

Bit of a drag waiting 3 hours before flying, then the additonal delay flying to Quito via Guayaquil. Also, we lose an hour on our way back.

After freshening up at the hotel, most of us meet for a meal in Quito, at the Magic Bean. A nice finish to the trip, with a nice bunch of folks.

Monday 15th Jan - our last full day in Quito, meet up with Duncan and Rachel for brekky and agree to meet for a taxi to take us to the Panecillo. We could walk it, but we're warned that the walk up is a little dangerous and we could be mugged.

Surprised to see Mandy return to the hotel - was due to fly this morning, though her flight was cancelled....6 months ago. Quite odd as our GAP rep assured us all that our flights had been reconfirmed, and no changes. At least she can join us for the day ahead of her flight this evening.

Nice views from the top, looking over Old Town, with New Town in the distance. The city looks huge from here.

Then, back in the taxi up to Teleferiqo, where we catch a cable car up a further 2500 metres up Volcan Pichincha, to the top of Cruz Loma. Wow, back at 4100 metres, and feeling it as we walk around, slowly. Again, nice views of the city from the top.

In the afternoon, Paul wasted 3 hours waiting for our piccies to be put on DVD, whilst Chris and Julie stepped out for a bit of light shopping.

Tears (or Hayfever perhaps) from Rachel as we say goodbye to her and Duncan - hopefully we'll see them again, in New Zealand....

Dinner that night back at the Magic Bean...yummy, though 3 of us leave feeling uncomfortably full.

16th Jan, our last day in Quite (until we return in a few months) - Chris and Julie meet up with Samantha from our Galapagos trip and pay a visit to Capilla Del Hambre (Chapel of Man) and the gallery of Oswaldo Guayasamin, with his pictures as a tribute to human kind. Not a lot of fun - the art depicting the pains suffered by those under cruel dictators and/or poverty. Covers not only South America, but India and Africa. Odd that we saw pictures of teh artist with Fidel Castro and Chairman Mao. Apparently, he hated Pinoche.

A mural there is dedicated to the people (slaves) who lost their lives in the silver mines in Bolivia. The museum was opened after the artists death in 1999, with some of his work being finished in clay from drawings.

Also, saw the outside and garden of his house - lovely old car stored there, as well as his ashes, which are buried next to a small shrine.

Spent some time in the aftrenoon catching up with the blog, and eating the free cookies in the hotel reception, before heading from the hotel to the airport for our 8.30pm flight to Buenos Aires, via Lima.

Not sure of the name of the international airport in Quito, but it could easily be pronounced 'Shite-hole', and we pay US$38 for the privilege of leaving the place.

A little panic shortly before we're due to board - Julie's name is called out and it appears that teh security guys want to check her bag. Turns out to be here checked-in luggage and we get a little anxious as 20+ minutes passes, and we're called for boarding. In the end, no panic, and they let her through with her Nicotine pills. No internal searches required. This time...

Thanks to the nice lady at check-in, we score exit seats, which we believe are for the first leg to Lima - wrong! After a short wait in Lima we board for the longer journey to BA - Paul beaming as he's in legroom heaven. Of course, disappointed to see a lack of personal TV's. Miserable git.

Buenos Aires continues on next exciting thread.....