New Zealand - South Island - West Coast and North

Te Anau and Milford Sound

No luck getting in to the first camp site we tried here, but that was probably good as it was quite cramped anyway and the one we ended up in gave us a perfect spot overlooking the lake.

Yes, so this is our entry point for Milford Sound (119 kms away) and we get some details from the nearby info shop on the various trips. We take up one of the extended nature cruises (Red Boat Cruises - $65 - recommended) for the next afternoon. We choose the afternoon as the forecast suggests that things'll brighten up...we'll see.

Just a wander around town that evening, quite a busy place, where previous spots have been quite empty of tourists. The town sits perfectly alongside the beautiful lake, shame about the clouds this evening. Again, making the most of the light hanging around until way after 9pm.

Next morning we head off, with no rush, towards Milford Sound, leaving late morning to avoid joining the convoy of coaches and cars all the way there.

Stops on the way include; Cascade Creek/Red Beech Forest Loop Walk. Also, Chasm Creek, where the gushing downstream water has smoothed the rocks over many many years.

Arrived at Milford Sound to pretty skies and the fantastic view of Mitre Peak (1692 metres), mirroring in the shallow waters below. Paul had been waiting to see this scene for real, after years of admiring it from a placemat at the Newton household.

Had some time to kill before our 3.45pm trip, so just looked at the amazing sights around us in the warm sun.

So Milford Sound - the area dubbed as Fjordland, flat waters below high peaks and numerous narrow waterfalls - this time, not due to the rain, but the melting snow above. Apparently, up to 10,000 waterfalls are created after a heavy downpour. Would be nice to see I guess, but happy for the warm and dry conditions today.

Our 2.25 hour cruise gets underway, the boat very nice and with good facilities, though we spend all the time outside, up at the front of the upper deck. Difficult to describe what we can see - it's all sooo amazing. The water is perfectly flat, and we get up close to the vertical walls ahead of us, sometimes taking on the spray of a nearby waterfall. The cruise takes us up the channel towards the Tasman Sea and the engines are cut for a few minutes for us to enjoy the sights in perfect silence. Again, conditions just right and none of the surrounding peaks are topped with any cloud, giving the ultimate view. Apparently the conditions haven't been this good for a few days.

As well as the sights, there's an interesting commentary as we cruise along - these guys seem to really enjoy what they are doing.

Obviously pleased with our timing re. weather conditions, but also the 'town' area (little more than a couple of accomodation places/restaurant/bar) was quieter at this end of the day, with most of the coach tourists headed back to Te Anau, leaving the bar nice and quiet for a couple of pints.

Stayed at one of the DOC campsites tonight (Lake Gunn), parking up by the lake edge. A little chilly, but couldn't ask for better surroundings and got a great view of the starry sky. Watched appalling mountaineering-type film 'Scream of Stone' (Donald Sutherland) - cack.

Took our time getting up the next day, enjoyed the peace and quiet of the lake area.

Planned a bit of a hike from The Divide, a sort drive back towards Milford Sound. The walk is a upward track that leads to Key Summit (919 metres)(the walk is along part of the Routeburn Track) - took about an hour to get to the top for the best 360 degree views so far. There's an interesting nature walk at the top and the info sheet tells us that if we had been here 250 million years ago, we would have been standing under the sea...

A bite to eat in the 'van followed a lively walk and then we took the road back to Te Anau, including a stop at the Mirror Lakes, though the wind a little too strong to keep the surface perfectly flat.

The good weather followed us back to Te Anau, and we also managed to get our top spot at the camp site. After a couple of tasty pies in town, we spent the afternoon enjoying the sun and facing up to the challenge of doing our diary notes....going back several weeks. Painful, but glad to get it done.

It's now Monday 20th November and we take a moment to remember Christine's lovely Dad, Derrick. Can't believe he left us 2 years ago.

More chores this morning and we manage to fill two washing machines with our laundry - there must have been some underwear recycling over the last few days. Glad it's not been too hot over here.

Before leaving town we took the waters edge walk up to the control gates (for the hydro electric station) and back again, but stopping on the way back to see the birds (Kea's, Parakeets, NZ Pidgeon's) at a small wildlife area. Clouds starting to come in...

More pies for lunch, then on the road, Ipod cranked up (Foo Fighters) for the journey to Queenstown.

Queenstown

Yes, another stretch of road taking us through mega-scenery (sorry, I've used 'fantastic' and 'amazing' too frequently), including past Lake Wakatipu, where a small gravel beach catches our eye and we pull up to check it out. The water is perfectly flat and clear and we find ourselves doing our first bit of sunbathing in weeks. Stones lying around us perfect for skimming, Chris not very good at it.

Since Chris was here 9 years ago, Queenstown has changed hugely - simply a lot more built up, lots of fancy apartments to cater for the year round tourist industry.

Checked out the town in the afternoon, and stayed back out (8kms) in Frankton at the lakeside Motor Camp. The Frankton Lake Walk just in front of us and Paul takes off for a run along the path - comes back a bit wheezy. Lovely path, with some lovely houses on the hillside.

Another climb the next day, though we opt out of the 6-8 hour 'demanding' Ben Lomond walk, for the more favourable 3 hours of the Queenstown Hill Walk. More top 360 degree scenery and no more than a handful of little fluffy clouds scattered around the blue sky. As well as sights and sounds, there's a pleasant alpine whiff in the air - could have stayed up here all day, but we make the most of it anyway. We'll be back here someday...

Back at the bottom of the track and we crave peanut butter sandwiches, before walking back around town and sitting by the waters edge. Got chatting to Floridian John who had sailed to NZ across the Pacific out of the Panama Canal - a 9 month trip!

Despite it being quite early, well 5pm, the three of us decided to go along to the Minus 5 Bar - an ice bar, which is more of a tourist attraction that a 'walk-in' bar. Our NZ$25 got us 30 minutes and one Vodka cocktail, though Paul managed to wangle a free second one after his ice glass sprung a leak. It was in fact -7.5 degrees inside, though we're given anoraks, gloves and thermal booties to keep us warm. The bar is quiet small, but an interesting sight with all the ice sculptures.

Feeling the effects of the cocktails we seek Fish and Chips nearby - lovely, especially with the beer.

Fairly early night tonight, but watched Matrix Revolutions in the van first.

Wednesday (22nd Nov), made the most of internet happy hour and caught up with our blog and had a tasty indian for lunch.

Drove out (44 kms) to Glenorchy and took one of the short walks, out to the lagoon. Stopped at the DOC campsite on the way back and decided instead to stay one last night in Frankton, making the most of the creature comforts. Had another run along the lakeside, before heading back into town for another push to get the blog uptodate...nearly there now. Very helpful and friendly guys at The Outpost, which aswell as being an internet cafe (with a cafe), they can book all the tours for the area.

Will be leaving town tomorrow and, shockingly, we've not managed any of the thrill experiences that Queenstown is famous for. Never mind, there'll be similar things to do further up the track...

Have finally sorted ourselves so that we can get some photos uploaded - watch this space!

Last day in Queenstown and we spend the whole morning getting right up to date with this blog - that's 9 hours on the internet in the last 36 hours!, we hope people are reading this

Just after another curry lunch we hit the road towards Haast, via Arrowtown - the scenic route, via the Crown Range Road. Amazing scenery on all sides, and great views of Queenstown to the back. This stretch of road is said to have fences adorned with bra's, but we didn't see any.

On the way, passed Lake Wanaka and Lake Hawea - both huge and surrounding mountain scenery stunning. As we got nearer to Haast Pass, the rain returned so no stops for walks along the way. We did briefly stop at the crashing Fantail Falls, which was just off the road.

Haast and Jacksons Bay

Stayed at the chilly (inside the building/common area) YHA in Haast, though used our plug in heater for only the second time. Cosy, though stuffy through the night.

Met up with our Dutch Spaceship Friends, Peter and Patty. They are Dutch, not their Spaceship.

Torrential rain started early next morning and, at breakfast, we listened in on a conversation that a US family were having about the NZ cycling tour, and that they hadn't yet ridden in rain. Yet! Poor folks - the rain briefly quietened and they set off, 2 minutes later it all started again, full pelt.

We drove the 40-odd kms to Jacksons Bay, hoping to see some Fiordland Crested Penguins, though another day of bad luck. Nice drive through stunning rainforest, and the weather conditions do add an edge to the view. Did the Wharekai Te Kau walk through the rainforest.

Fox Glacier and Franz Josef Glacier

Next drive on to Fox Glacier, and a walk to the Terminal Face, probably getting about 80 metres away. What a sight, a living glacier right in front of us - this thing moves down the valley at about 1 metre a day! Despite the rain, made the most of the view before the short drive up to Franz Josef Glacier.

Arriving into the town quite late in the afternoon, we chose an early dinner and kept our fingers crossed that the small bits of blue sky we could see would become bigs bits of blue for an evening walk.

Well, conditions were fine at the campsite, but as soon as we parked up at the Glacier carpark about 5 kms away, the grey clouds came in, with a little shower.

Because of the rainfall today, the streams flooding out of the mouth of the Glacier were too wide to cross, so the view, albeit stunning, was from afar, probably a kilometre away.

Amazing glacial blue is the overwhelming sight, though the ice is covered in the dust and rock that it grinds away at as it passes down the valley. Low clouds obscure the top of the icepack, but the scene is awesome.

With more rain the next morning we decide against a second visit to FJ Glacier, nor a tour to actually set foot on it. A helicopter tour would have been great, but the visibility too poor for them to run.

The road on from here takes us up the windy west coast through Hoki and Greymouth and then inland and through alpine forest to the thermal spa area of Hanmer Springs. More driving today that sightseeing (other than the on-th-road scenery) - about 400 kms covered.

Hanmer Springs

Skies quite clear as we arrive here late afternoon, and after a quick mooch around the small town, we sit down for a quiet weekend pint. Decide against visiting the Spa attraction today.

Sunday turns to be very relaxing, though initially disappointed as we wake to clouds after a starry night. Arrive at the Spa for opening time at 10am and get our swimmers on for the first time in a while.

A bit chilly walking around the pools (manmade, but containing thermal water from underground) but soon feel great having a hot soak (39 degrees) as it starts to shower. There's several pools scattered around the site - rock pools (36 degrees) and eggy sulphur springs (40 degrees). Probably should have pushed ourselves to use the swimming pool too, but quite happy to relax and go wrinkly.

Kaikoura

After lunch at the nearby bakers (first apple pie for a while), we're back on Route 7 and heading to the east coast and Kaikoura.

Just miss the info centre when we arrive, but get to the Dolphin Encounter Centre and book ourselves for the first boat out tomorrow morning - 5.30am! Sounds like they've had lots of pods around over the last few days, so fingers crossed...

At the other end of the esplanade is a seal colony, though the only wildlife around are winged, including a pair of Oyster Catchers, with their stand-out long red beaks,red eyes and red legs.

With our trip now booked, next thought turns to accomodation for that night. Being skinflint backpackers we cringe at the thought of splashing out for a nights stay, only to leave at 5am, so we pluck up the courage to 'rough it' for the night, finding a quiet spot at the local lookout and getting great views of Kaikoura below.

A little unsure if we were allowed, but no 'no camping' signs around.

No problems in the end, though not too keen on the early start next day, though pleased to see the sky quite clear.

Arriving at the Dolphin Encounter shop, we soon get our gear ready - wetsuits and snorkelling gear - and then off in theus for a 5 minute ride round to South Bay.

After a bit of wind last night (wethar conditions, not Chris), the sea a little choppy as we make our way over to the expected dolphin area. On the way over we were stalked by 3 '747-like' Albatross.

The dolphins were spotted quite quckly and we could see many of them jumping around in a wide area. This location is centered around a deep oceanic trench, which is an ideal spot within the food chain - it's like an underwater food court, with things like SUBway and KFSea. Also you can probably get 'Sponge' Cake there too.

Not ideal snorkelling conditions - the waves are a little high - but once we're in the water the conditions and cold water soon the last things on our minds.

I think I'd underestimated the use of 'WOW' in this part of the blog - I'll have to upgrade its use here to 'MEGAWOW'!

As soon as we're in the water and looking down into the abyss (though visibility not so good at 3-4 metres), the Dusky Dolphins are soon swarming around us - dozens of them, all over the place, circling and eyeballing us. Difficult to describe how amazing it was, also quite difficult to breathe at the time.

The dolphins buzzed around us for the whole time we were in the water, other than a couple of 30 second gaps. Usually took not much more than some underwater singing, or diving down to get them back, checking you out.

Couldn't believe how lucky we were to have so much life around us - this must be the best place in the world to swim with dolphins.

Not sure how long we had in the water, maybe 45 minutes, then back on board to dry off and warm up, still with all manner of acrobatical leaps going on around us.

Knocked back some hot chocolate and ginger nuts as we watched our sea friends ducking and diving around our boat.

Had a little while to enjoy the surroudings before the cruise back to land, a little smoother for the return.

Still early when we get back and try to phone home to gloat a bit - no bugger in!

Nothing else in town for us, so head out (via the supermarket and a re-stock) towards Blenheim and the winery area. Unfortunately arrived too late to get on a wine tour that day, so drove on to Nelson.

Nelson

Quite a big town here, and had a sniff round before driving to the MaiTai Camp, a few kms out of town. Nice camp site, by the river, and we had a walk along the bank, taking us most of the way back into town. Despite limited time in Nelson, we both agree it would be a nice place to live....

Spoke to the folks back home that night - all well there.

Lazy day next day - got some washing done, Starbucks, lounging in the library and watch The Departed (4/5) at the cinema (cheap Tuesday). Had a nice evening on the site, home to some friendly locals.

Spent the next morning in Nelson, before driving away towards Abel Tasman National Park.

Abel Tasman National Park

Along the way we saw a sign for Harwoods Hole - 178 metre deep vertical cave. After a 11 km bumpy road, and a 45 minute walk, we get to the hole, though quite a limited view down into it - depending on how far you were prepared to lean over the egde....with no safety rails!

Decided against doing any of the 2/3/4 day walks (perhaps not quite good enough conditions for these fair-weather travellers!), though certainly up for a hike.

Weather not too kind - chilly, showery, gusty and quite a long drive on a dirt track to our camp for the night (Totaranui), within the National Park. Nice open and quiet space for us, though no facilities (cooking/power), despite it costing the same as most of the other camp sites we've stayed at. Of course, fantastic surroundings!

With sarnies and nachos for dinner, we settle down early and watch a NZ film 'Kombi-Nation', about a group of Kiwis travelling around Europe in a VW camper. Pretty good.

Very breezy, but nice clear skies next morning - we set off from the car park on our walk, which should take about 6 hours. The loop will start along the coastal track and various stops along the way include, Apapai Bay, Mutton Cove, Separation Point and Whariwharangi Bay. The track then heads inland and takes us up Gibbs Hill track, where we start to sweat as we hit the steeper summit.

The views amazing all the way along and agree that a walk over several days would be perfect if it was just a little warmer and you could get into the sea.

Enjoyed a cold can of Coke and nice chocolate when we get back to the camper, some 5 and a bit hours later. With achy legs we drive up the road towards Farewell Spit and have a short walk out onto the beach, though the rain soon starts.

Unsure of where we'll sleep that night, we take an evening stop in Takaka at the Wholemeal Cafe for dinner. Cool place, with a great menu - veggie curry for Chris, and Blue Cod for Paul.

Still unsure where to stay, and with it getting late we stumble across a car park at the start of a trail and there doesn't seem to be any restriction on overnight stays. No trouble that night, though not the best nights sleep for Paul - sandfly bites itching like mad!

Up early next day for the short drive to Marahau (another start point for the coastal track walks), though our plans are just for a short stroll to Appletree Bay, which takes up the best part of the morning. Yummy banana shakes at the cafe.

Managed to swap our DVD's at Old MacDonalds Farm, though limited choice sees us walk away with 'Transformers - The Movie'.

Left the fairly clear skies of Abel Tasman and returned to Nelson to be greeted by dark clouds and lots of rain. Perfect weather to push us into the cinema and an afternoon of Borat! Mad!, then onto the library for some reading up.

Nelson, again

Cheap Falafel and Kebab dinner in town, then back to our favourite campsite for American Psycho on DVD for afters.

Attempted poached eggs the next morning - I think we'll stick with fried or boiled from now on. Today not going too well - we managed to get a bag of clothes into the laundry, to then find no dryer free.

Stopped in town at the Saturday Market and bought some fruit and veg, at half the price of the supermarkets.

In the afternoon, drove out to Cable Bay and enjoyed the view from the comfort of the cab - lazy bu**ers decided against a walk and sped on up to Marlborough Sound, taking the road along the Kenepuru SOund - sadly disappointing as the views are blocked by teh tress, though every so often there's a break and you can see the beautiful bays and caves below. Spent the night at a Department of Conservation campsite in Portage - 'Cow Shed Bay' - got a spot right in front of the water, which was a gorgeous sight the next morning, mostly still on top of the water.

Agreed on a walk this morning, so drove teh short way to Anakiwa and walked the coastal 'Queen Charlotte' track for a couple of hours - more lovely secluded bays and rainforest. Stopped for a while and stretched out in the sun, accompanied by Mr and Mrs Duck.

Picton

PM, drove to Picton, but took another cliff top stop to enjoy the view on the way.

Picton's a fairly small town, considering it's ferry links to the North Island. Got our stay off to a good start here, with a couple of double scoop icecreams. After a quick wander up the high street and back, we grab some grass by the waters edge and sit in the sun, whilst preparations for the Xmas parade go on around us.

We notice quite a crowd gathering up on the promenade, and soon start to hear the parage make its way through town - quite an odd sight on a hot and sunny day - Santa must be sweating buckets in that outfit today.

Choose to stay at the Waikawa Bay Holiday Park and get ourselves a huge patch of grass to occupy. Paul went for a run, whilst Chris sat on the grass and read, though got a dose of hayfever (...and everything! - (private joke)). Took an evening stroll down to the marina and finished the day with some frisbee and a bottle of wine. Happy Birthday to Thomas and Sophia - I remember being 7, it was a good year...

Had hoped to get on a wine tour in Blenheim today (4th Dec, our last day in the South Island), but the driving rain puts us off and Chris has a haircut here instead - small town, not much going on, so back to Picton and hang around for our crossing at 6pm.

No dramas during the 3 hour crossing - the first hour is spent winding our way through the Sounds, then not much else to see before we get into the capital, Wellington, just after 9pm.

Continues in North Island entry...