New Zealand - South Island - East Coast and South

New territory for Paul, though Chris has been to New Zealand before, back in 1996. Also, now 13 hours ahead of the UK.

Exciting start as we break through the clouds covering the mountains and wide open spaces below.

Our time in New Zealand (to 20th December) will be split between South and North Island - probably 4 weeks in the former, last 2 weeks up North. Hopefully this will help our plans re. hiring a camper, as we hear that the deals are better as we're essentially helping to relocate vehicles back to the more popular starting point of Auckland.

We had considered dipping our toes into a bit more adventure and camping our way around, but with the weather in Oz not being as good as we hoped and reports that NZ is wet and windy, we kept our fingers crossed that a good camper deal would come our way. More on that later...

Christchurch

Nice and quick getting through customs/immigration etc and soon found the cheap route into Christchurch, $7 each on the local bus.

Soon dropped into the centre of town - and just a few minutes walk from the YHA around the corner. Pleased to see a Starbucks in town, though it's clear now where our budget is going wrong.

Drop off our bags and waste no time in getting back out to sniff around the town. Soon realise it's actually quite cold, so back to the room for some extra layers - Paul chuffed that he bought a fleece in Sydney, just incase.

Christchurch easy enough to navigate, and on first view a nice little place. 2 further Starbucks located. Happy to not do too much today, so spend the evening in front of the telly after noshing some cheap fish and chips. Rain falls sufficiently hard enough to knock out the satellite picture. Thank goodness for a July copy of Ralph.

Next day, the mission is to sort out our transport around NZ, and our first stop is the 'Spaceship' shop (www.spaceships.tv), to check out their funky looking MPV/Campervan. They're little people carriers that have been converted to include the basics - full width bed, food storage/little battery powered fridge (big enough for 3 bottles of beer), water can - also, a fancy ceiling mounted DVD player/7inch TFT screen. We had already looked at the more traditional 'bigger' campervans, and whilst perfect for us, they're pretty pricey and heavier on fuel, so a killer cost for a 6 week trip.

Wasn't too long for us to be sold a Spaceship hire, only NZ$54 (just under GBP20) a day, plus managed to wangle a day free. So, that's our accomodation sorted for the next 38 nights. The nice lady was also very helpful and showed us around the vehicle - also, sorted us a 'newer' one. Our Spaceship is called 'STIN' and there's about 200 out there on the roads of NZ.

Chuffed, we thought that sorting our transport was gonna take ages, but sorted by 10.30am. Another day of very little to worry about, except take it easy.

Whilst chilly today, the sun came out for us and we spent some of the afternoon sitting on a sun-trapped bench in the botanical gardens, next to the river. Said hello to the ducks and lots of people going past on punts. Treated ourselves to a Subway and managed to get us a free drink from the Juice Bar when our order was wrong.

Sat in on an interesting talk at the YHA given by a Maori chap.

Noticed tonight that it was still quite light after 9pm - probably dark by 5pm back home in England.

Despite being excited at the prospect of picking up our Spaceship in the morning, we slept very well. Didn't take too long to sort out the final paperwork and we were soon on the road, Paul splitting his attention between driving on NZ roads and tuning in the radio.

Stopped at the edge of town to load up on supplies, then straight out towards Mt Cook, taking a lunch stop in the quiet town of Geraldine. Don't tell anyone, but I sneaked into the camp site to fill up our water tank.

Gorgeous scenery on the way, and not too much traffic. The Spaceship nice and easy to drive, though a bit sluggish on hills - maybe there's a hyperdrive button here somewhere... no, that's the hazards!

Lake Tekapo

We expect many 'WOW' moments here in NZ, and the first comes as we find our way to Lake Tekapo - WOW, never seen water that colour, such a beautiful grey/blue/turquoise, with snow-capped mountains as a backdrop. We chose to stay at a campsite by the lake-side, though lake-front would have been better. With the blue sky completing the amazing view, we had a nice walk along the lake - little noise but the waves lapping up at the edge. Gorgeous yellow flowers of spring along the edge too, and at the top of the lake a small church - perhaps this kind of setting would get me (Paul) interested in one of those wedding things.

Not much in the way of nightlife here, but who needs that when you've got your own in-house DVD player and that Will Smith classic - 'Hitch'. Actually quiet cool snuggled up watching a film, whilst looking through the 'moon-roof' at the stars - only 37 nights like this left to go.

We both slept really well on our first campervan night, and fresh the next morning to move on. Just before heading out of town we made our way up to the Mount John Observatory, moreso just to get the view from the top. Unbelieveable winds nearly blow us back down again, though the views were impressive!

Mount Cook

Now on our way to Mount Cook National Park, but one more lake stop (Lake Pukaki) first, and another magnificent site, though sadly clouds in the distance covering Mt Cook. The clouds worsen as we get closer, then the rain starts and stays with us for the rest of the journey, all the way to the visitor centre. Oh well, we'll wait in the Spaceship and make some sandwiches.

The rain doesn't stop for the rest of the day, though we're armed with information for the local walks and chuck on the waterproofs for the first walk, the Tasman Glacier View Track. First visiting teh Blue Lakes, though they're now green, then onto the Glacier view proper, though the main view is the Glacier Lake, containing lots of icebergs, though you can look up the valley to see the 'blue' of the bottom of the Tasman glacier.

The weather stopped us doing much more that day, so we made our way to our first Department of Conservation camp site - pretty basic, though there was a toilet there. A little cheaper too, just $6 each, and our money goes in a envelope into the 'Iron Ranger'.

Tonight cinema presentation is 'The Basketball Diaries' - pretty good DiCaprio film.

Next moring - WOW - for two reasons. Firstly because Chris thought that history was to repeat itself and a flash flood was going to pass through here like it did in 1913 and washed the Hermitage Hotel away - it did rain all night, a little bit of thunder and lightning too, but the Spaceship stood up to the job. Second, and more importantly, the view next morning as we slid the side door open (whilst still under the duvet) was an amazing view of the snow capped mountains ahead of us. Not sure of the name of the range, but simply breathtaking, but that could also be blamed on the chilly wind coming down the valley.

Took us a little while to get going in the cold, but we took the Hooker Valley walk (3.5 hrs) from our camp site. Interesting walk all the way through, including across swing-bridges, with gushing rapids below. Treated to great (but not completely clear) views of Mt Cook (3755 metres).

Lunch back at the van, and we were joined by a family of ducks and their naughty little chicks.

Back on the road for the same route out of the National Park, though treated to some great views with clearer skies as we drove away. Stopped back at Lake Pukaki, but still a little cloud over Mount Cook, but the wider view was fantastic.

Stopped in the small nearby town of Twizel, used the internet in a launderette - what a great idea! - but pleased to get out on the open road again. WOW - realise that we can connect the Ipod to the car stereo - no more sharing an ear each!

Made a couple of detours on the way - one to try and find a whale fossil (unsuccessful), another to find the Elephant Rocks (sucessful). The rocks are in an inland field of huge boulders (actually these began as sand buried here some 25 million years ago and hardened over time), and is strangely reminiscent of Tellytubby land, though it does have a claim to fame as the place where they filmed The Chronicles of Narnia (2005) - the lion character Aslan had his lair here (I think).

Oamaru

Miserable weather met us at Oamaru and our camping spot had us facing into someones living room. Had a look around town the next morning (in the rain) - not much to see here, though the gardens next to the camp site are nice. Took a short drive to the coastal area of Bushy Beach where the rare Yellow Eyed Penguins have a colony. These little fellas are quite shy, so the DOC have built a hide from where you can view the nesting area - unfortunately all the critters must have been out to sea today. Best time to see them is late afternoon.

Left Oamaru for Dunedin via the coastal road and Moeraki.

Stopped to see some more ancient boulders on the way, this time on the coast. Again, these formed millions of years ago out of limestone crystals.

Dunedin

Arrived in Dunedin (Celtic name for Edinburgh - and we certainly made the Scottish connection with the grumpy weather). Starbucks also here

To get out of the weather we spent a couple of dry hours in the cinema (Flags of Our Fathers - 4/5) then on to the 'Top 10' (nationwide chain) campsite on the other side of town. Got ourselves a lovely little spot with garden table, though doesn't look like we'll get to relax here on the outside very much.

Planning to spend a couple of days here in Dunedin and mooched around town, the (excellent) museum and a trip out to Baldwin Street, the steepest street in the world. Enjoyed watching The Who documentary, 'The Kids Are Alright', though reminded myself that I won't be able to get the new album for another few months. Anyone heard it?

Otago Peninsular

A little bit of admin the next morning (including this blog), though nice to see the sun come out as we start the drive around the waterside drive along the Otago Peninsular. Scenery gorgeous, though the driver careful to keep half an eye on the road. First stop up at Taiaroa Head, home to a small number of Albatross. You know what's next - no sight for us, but had a little more luck down at Sandfly Bay, where we waited in a beach hide for 2 hours, to be shown that one of the little Yellow Eyed Penguins had been hanging around up the hill all the time. Walked back along the beach towards the car, passing several huge Hooker Sealions, to see three Penguins make their way out of the sea - WOW. Was a bit of a scramble to get back up to the car park over the windy sand dunes.

Facts - I mentioned that the Yellow Eyed Penguins are rare, there's only about 3000 breeding penguins left. They can head out 45kms from shore to get their feed, as well as live up to 20kms inland. They're shy too and easily distressed - maybe there should be no 'attraction' to see them here at all...

Balclutha

Drove to our resting destination of Balclutha - most things closed up by the time we arrive, though the chippy open. And they were great.

The campsite was nice and quiet, and we played with Buddha, one of those Boxer-type dogs with wrinkly faces and breathing problems.

Watched a p-poor Bruce Willis film in the cosy lounge area, and enjoyed a hot Ribena.

No hanging around next day, the route taking us to Invercargill, via The Catlins - a place of isolated forests and windswept bays. Stopped off at Nugget Point and viewed out over the rocks by the lighthouse to see more sea lions, and bird life. Just nearby is Roaring Bay, home to more penguins, and we catch the sight of one just heading into the sea - also one other preening itself up on the hillside.

Other stopping points on the way - Tautuku Bay and Lake Wilkie. Felt the need for a power-nap near to Curio Bay before stepping out onto the 180 million year old fossil-forest, left over from the Jurassic period. Petrified tree stumps and fallen log fossils all about us. Oh, and it was raining.

Invercargill

On the scenic route via Haldane and Fortrose (rolling hills one side, crashing surf on the other), finishing the drive for the day at Invercargill. Where there is a Starbucks.

Of the camp site choice, Chris is up for the one where you can help feed the little(orphaned) lambs, just a few kms out of town.

Russell Crowe's 'Master and Commander' showing on the main screen tonight and we've got the best seats in the house.

Soggy morning and Chris watched the lambs being fed.

Off into town - had planned to visit the museum, but waylaid by the internet at the library and we seemed to manage a free session. Glad we have finally sorted our accomodation for Tahiti over Christmas - we had considered changing our flights, cutting it out, as it was looking like an expensive week. However, sorted for a weeks b&b for just over a couple of hundred quid, though we're a couple of kms from the beach. No problem, though reckon we'll find it a little costly whilst we're there - anyway, that's in a few weeks time.

Next port of call will be Te Anau, for Milford Sound, and the drive takes us through a lovely little 'port' area called Cosy Nook. Lovely hills behind, and more crashing waves in front....and not a sole in sight, save for some sheeps. By the way, it's true what is suggested about the numbers of sheeps and lambs here in NZ - they're everywhere, especially as we're a few weeks into lambing season.

Had hoped to spot some whales and/or Hectors dolphins from the lookouts along the way, though nothing this time.

After a 20 minute drive along a gravel track, we arrive at Lake Monowai for a short walk, through the forest to a opening that looks out across the lake with the rocky hills towering behind.

Te Anau and Milford Sound continue on next entry...