4 and a bit weeks in Australia (Victoria & South Australia)

Touched down in Melbourne International Airport and straight on the blower to our friend Richard, who emigrated over here a couple of years ago and lives with his lovely wife, Emma, in Williamstown. Not forgetting their foster-cat, Tuesday, who is a little bit scared of strangers, and also likes to attack if you get too close following her down the hallway.

Anyway, picked up our hire care (boo-hoo, no cruise control) and headed down towards downtown - only made one turn-off mistake on the way.

Richard and Emma have a lovely place just 30 seconds (quick walk) from the beach at Williamstown - what a lovely place.

Haven't seen Richard since last Christmas in London, so we caught up as we strolled along the waterfront and through the botanical gardens.

Monday night is spaghetti night in the Payne household - never had Tofu Bolognese before. Tip-top. But that wine was nice too.

Only one night in Williamstown before we hit the (Great Ocean)road and off we go via Geelong with a mostly sunny sky.

First stop of the day at Torquay Beach to watch some surfers, then on to the famous (Point Break was filmed there) Bells Beach. Further down the road we see our first lighthouse, at Aireys Inlet and take a walk to the Erskine Falls at Lorne. Not a lot of rain lately, so the falls not so impressive - greenery surrounding us is nice though.

At Lorne we also took a drive up into the coastal hills to Teddy's Lookout, giving breathtaking views of the bay and the snaking road. Wow, saw our first 'wild' Koala here, though it was fairly inactive, even after a prod. We told Christine's mum that she shouldn't do that, it's not very nice.

Further along the GOR we get to Apollo Bay, and more fantastic beaches and settings - then slightly inland and on through the Otway National Park with amazing green hills, with clear blue skies behind.

Arrived at Port Campbell National Park next with its sheer cliff faces and the amazing 12 Apostles - tall limestone columns formed over many millenia from the effects of the sea. In fact, there's no longer 12 structures, only 6 left standing with the most recent collapse a few years ago. Got here fairly late in the day, but hoped for a fancy sunset - not today, with the clouds now surrounding us.

Stayed at the old YHA in Port Campbell, though didn't get up to much and moved on early next day, though making a return trip to the 12 Apostles next morning - showers unfortunately.

A few km's up the road is Loch Ard Gorge, site of the shipwreck of 1878, only 2 survivors from this wreck, on the last night of the voyage from England. Very windy, thus impreesive waves.

Then along the coast to 'London Bridge' - a limestone archway, where one of the spans collapsed in 1990, alledgedly leaving to secret lovers stranded, needing a rescue by helicopter.

Next, Bay of Islands, with similar gorgeous scenery to the 12 Apostles.

The small town of Warrnambool was where we went to see if we could see some whales at Logan's Beach, which is a nursery area. Sadly, nuffink.

Stopped in Port Fairy for some elevenses - yummy 'Mars Hedgehog' (chocolate cake). Took a walk through to the small harbour, and on to the huge stretch of empty beach. Also here are the remains of the fortification and gun battery set up to protect the area from the prospect of invading Russians! The Russians never came, at least not with a view to invading - probably just here on holiday.

The road trip takes us on along the Portland-Nelson Road and we stopped at the windswept Discovery Bay Coastal Park, then on to the freshwater Piccaninie Ponds - a favoured spot for inland snorkelling. Too cold today!

Last tourist spot of the day was to visit the quirky Umpherston Sinkhole - a curious sunken garden/cave-thing, that you can walk down into - even has BBQ facilities!

Tonight's bed will be at Mount Gambier, where we'll get our first stay in a jail - this place was a jail until 1995, but is now very interesting backpacker accomodation. Got ourselves a cosy cell with bunks. Took up the free internet offer here and played with the Llama and little dog who likes to climb ladders.

First thing next morning and we take a walk around the extinct crater rim, which surrounds the most beautiful Royal blue water, then onto the Engelbrecht Caves - fascinating underwater caves, used by divers. The caves used to be a junkhole, where 400 tons of rubbish were excavated back in the 1980's leading to the first public visits in 1992.

A change of plan to the schedule here - we worked out that driving all the way up to Adelaide and taking in all the proposed stops would simply be too much rush and we wouldn't be out of the car, so, we turn inland at this stage and head North to The Grampians National Park.

The drive through the burnt forests, following the huge fires from January 2006, is an amazing sight with the new greenery growing against the charred tree trunks, though the volume of destruction is immense and of course, you think about all the poor little critters.

Just before we arrived into Halls Gap, we see our first Echidna (a sort of tropical hedgehog). The eco-YHA in Halls Gap is amazing, and perfectly positioned - in fact HG in this sunshine reminds us of Yosemite National Park in California.

Enjoyed a big 3-scoop ice cream while we planned our stay, then Chris and mum took a late afteroon walk through to Fyans Creek to watch Kangaroos. Paul went back to the hostel to relax in the cosy and quiet lounge.

Weather not so good next morning and it rains as we walk the path to the top of Mount William (1167 metres - highest point in the Park). As with a lot of tall peaks around the world, this one is also topped off with some kind of radio station, spoiling the view somewhat, and no doubt emitting some kind of fancy radiowaves, nibbling away at my bonemarrow.

Visited the interesting cultural centre, then took a lengthy drive around the Park area, visiting MacKenzie Falls (270 steps to climb), Lake Wartook, then onto part of the Park not affected by the fires. Saw our first Emu, with its 5 kids (not sure what baby Emu's are called).

Did several walks and lookouts - views over Mount Difficult Range and Victoria Valley.

Stayed a second night at the YHA, thankfully we were able to get a spot - they're very busy at weekends.

Met some 'ologists' over breakfast, who are here to look at the regeneration of the area. Lots of the new growth coming through is here for a short time only, so they're all getting very excited. About plants.

After brekky, we took a walk to the Venus Baths, just off the main street. Saw, but didn't hear, a Kookaburra and lots of spring flowers, before jumping back in the car for the drive on to Daylesford.

Daylesford is a popular Spa area and we spent the late afternoon on a nice walk around the lake, though it was a little chilly for mum. The YHA here is a homely affair, and we enjoyed the evening watching a Battle of Britain documentary, presented by the nice man who does all the fancy charts on Election night.

Further walks the next day - Golden Spring to Hepburn Mineral Springs via Jackson's Lookout. Quite low on the wildlife count, 3 Echidnas and 1 Wallaby - no Koalas. Left town early afternoon for the final strectch back to Melbourne.

Sunday afternoon and the weather in Melbourne is sunny and warm, bringing the masses to the Botanical Gardens, where we spent a fine couple of hours, before driving back out of town to Yarra Junction where we'll be dropping mum off for her stay with Joyce and Eric for a few days. Got back to Melbourne late evening for some wine before a cofy sleep, back in Richard's Casio Museum.

Our 4 days (Mon - Thurs) in Melbourne very enjoyable - checked out the (fairly) new Federation Square, site of the old railway sidings. We saw the Melbourne mayor here, meeting'n'greeting some schoolkids. Enjoyed our walks along the Southbank, to the Casino, then along the Yarra out to the MGC. The free tram still runs the circuit of the city centre, though it drags it out a bit - you could probably walk faster. Took the tram out to the seaside area at St Kilda, which is a little more chilled out than the city. Had hoped to see some little penguins out past the marina, but no luck today. Also spent some time in Williamstown itself - braved a swim in the freezing water. Saw our first possum in a tree in town.

Picked up mum from Yarra Junction on Thursday morning and she and Chris did their thing in town that afternoon, Paul enjoying a sit down against the fence in the sun in Richards garden.

Wow, time has flown and we're now moving on from Melbourne - really good to see Richard and Emma and big thanks to them, and Tuesday, for letting us stay at their lovely house.

Hume Highway to Canberra follows...